Friday 26 August 2016

Extra stop: Ciendah Bay 25 - 26 August, over night stop only.

An over night stay only in Ciendah Bay. We did not go ashore here. At the base of the bay is the village, it looks pretty big with loads of squid boats in the water. We wondered during the afternoon why so many squid boats in one village - turns out as the sun was setting we must be in a squid infested bay - all the boats came out and we were surrounded by these magnificent crafts.

The image of blue water, the village, boats, barren mountains belittled by towering jungle covered mountains is incredible. Loads of coconut trees about.

Anchored at 08 30.40S & 121 41.12E in 10 meters of water. Internet and provisioning is available here.

We used google maps to enter as Navionics don't show reefs or rocks accurately.

Thursday 25 August 2016

Extra stop: Nangarujong 24 - 25 August, over night stop only.

We left Maumere early around 0645 heading to Maurole but we were there around midday so we continued on to the next bay called: Nangarunjong. There was yet another 'festival' on at Maurole and we felt the need for some isolation and freedom from the pack.

We didn't go ashore here, just anchored for the night. We had the entire bay to ourselves until early evening when another rally boat joined us.

We anchored at 08 30.49S & 121 41.42E in approximately 10 meters. There is no internet here and no provisioning available.

No village here that we could see, but knew there was some close by as the tell signs of children on the beach, cows being 'walked', fishermen and smoke as dinners cooked could be seen.

The bay does however have a steam power plant which at night was lit up like a Christmas tree giving us a good land based target during the night when checking we were still in the same location.

The steam power plant.

Local fisherman

His sails are typical of fisherman we see everyday.

Another magnificent sunset.

Lists of mechanical/rigging & general breakdowns and illnesses & accidents for the fleet while on the rally.


  • Clutch plate
  • water in engines
  • sails unstitching
  • sails ripping
  • rats & mice on board chewing wires
  • water pipes bursting
  • HF's not working
  • VHF's not working
  • loose alternator belts
  • generators leaking water pumps
  • generators general breakdowns
  • starter solenoid failing
  • burst fuel lines
  • burst oil cooling fitting on gear box
  • broken rigging blocks
  • hydraulic failures, including hydraulic steering hose bursting, failure of the hydraulic pump solenoids
  • tenders damaged at docks (getting caught underneath as the tide rises and then stuck fast)
  • tenders rubbing - holes
  • tender outboards failing
  • air in fuel systems, (incorrect fuel filter) one was caused by a loose fitting on the fuel pickup inside the fuel tank, split hose, fuel shut off valve leaking in air  
  • rudder bearing failure/falling off
  • total engine failure, due to improper servicing for a couple of years

  • flu's
  • colds
  • malaria
  • falls - scrapped shins, knees, legs etc
  • dengi feaver
  • spider bites
  • eye infections
  • allergic reactions
  • diarrhea
  • food poisoning
  • fingers caught in electronic winches including furler's
  • Of the vessels with electric or hydraulic winches 50 % had some form of accident causing crew injury with the powered winch or furler, in one case a finger was almost totally severed.   

Wednesday 24 August 2016

Stop 7: Maumere, Flores Island. August 17 - 24 2016

Maumere was our first place of complete rest. We stopped here for a total of 8 days, which by this stage of rally we felt tired and wanted to slow down a bit so up went the shade cover and we settled down to a more familiar style of exploring at own pace. It gave us time to do a few boat jobs and catch up on correspondence.

Our journey took us 10 hours from Lowoleba, motoring most of the way. We dropped anchor at 08 38.10S & 122 18.40E in about 16 meters of water right out the front of the Seaworld Resort/Hotel. Good holding here, but when we hauled anchor we had a massive piece of coral on it!

This was another anchorage that was not accurate on either Open CPN and Navionics, both showing 0.5metres outside the anchorage? We paced outside the anchorage for about 40 minutes wondering what to do, yet we could see the other fleet in the anchorage. In the end we decided to just turn off the chart plotter and head in watching the depth sounder. It never went off and we had plenty of water. Quite a few floating balls (fish traps underneath) were here at the time of our visit, but very easily seen in day light.

We had planned on stopping at TG Wodong but due to arriving around 1420 we decided we would easily make it to Maumere so we continued on saving yet another moving day the next day. Upon arrival we had a visit from Customs officials again. Not sure why, but we didn't want to make a fuss so we gave them our official documents and all was well. They certainly enjoy a photo opportunity.

Maumere is a great place and most things are found here. The hospital is good, markets are huge with very good produce and goodies, a Roxie supermarket is here and depending on what you want to go see,  its all here. The only downside to anchoring out the front of the Seaworld Resort Hotel was that you can not walk into town, you need transport.

We enjoyed the welcoming dinner, filled our tanks with diesel - solar, had laundry done, went to the markets a few times, topped up on data and our big trip here was a visit to the 3 coloured lakes in the crater of the Kelimutu volcano. Something else we enjoyed here was the little walk out to the main road. We did this quite a few times as the locals were lovely to be with. There was loads of wild life to see and the kids like all the kids, love a photo!

Maumere volleyball team. 
One afternoon we had some ladies come down to display how they do the Ikat weaving. It was really interesting. One average Ikat takes approximately 4 months to weave - all done by hand.

The day to the 3 coloured lakes started early with a 0400 pick up with our friends off Beez Neez and we all loaded into a van. The drive took us up and over the mountains to the other side and the views where spectacular. Some of the roads were not very wide but we never felt unsafe. That said we wouldn't want to do this drive in the rain. The roads are very steep in some places and with debris, mud and copious amounts of water falling could all make for a very interesting trip. The drive there and back was long but very good and we had loads of fun.

The main thing about visiting the 3 coloured lakes is to have a clear day. As we stopped the van to pay our entry fee the entire mountain top was in cloud - zero visibility. But we decided to press on and glad we did. The clouds cleared and views were breathtaking.

Two of the lakes are close together and the 3rd is a walk away to the other side of the crater. Easy, just long. Monkeys like here and don't seem to fussed by the tourists.

I bought an Ikat simply because i wanted a memento and what a better item to buy. An Ikat bought from the top of Kelimutu!

For lunch we stopped at the 'Mushroom Cafe' but sadly they had run out of mushrooms. Not to worry the lunch was delicious filling our bellies resulting in four very tired tourists who all nodded off on the drive home.

Fantastic day - don't miss this opportunity.

Wednesday 17 August 2016

Extra stop: Tanjung Gedong August 16 - 17 August, over night stop only.

Fisherman about to leave for a days fishing.
After leaving Leba Leba bay we decided to make a run for Tanjung Gedong. Tanjung meaning Point. We had to crank up the engine as we needed to enter Gedong with some day light. As it turned out we entered right on dark and had a friend come in his tender and show us where to put the anchor down. The little bay has its own village, but we did not go ashore here.

Matilda round the point to Gedong - cutting it fine for some light but it was a glorious full moon.

Thanks to the Captain of Serica, we anchored just in front of him.

We anchored in 9 meters of water at 08 04.69 & 122 50.70E. This was very close to shore and we still could have gone in closer. There are bommies closer to shore on the port side as you enter, give it a wide berth.

The fleet.

In the morning before we left we could see many local busy on the foreshore. Moving water (carrying on their heads), repairs on fishing vessels, fisherman coming and going and plenty of kids running around playing games and squealing with excitement.

Boat repairs on the foreshore.

Colorful boats at anchor,

Local ladies transporting water. Love the lady on the right of shot - she has a red pan under her chin to catch the water no doubt leaking from the ones on her head.
A few of the rally participants went ashore here and said the market & town where very basic. Some saw monkeys on the beach.