tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4268400213831756452024-03-13T20:30:50.685+10:00Matilda's JourneyA couple of young at heart retirees, exploring Australia and South East Asia on our Hans Christian, Christina - Matilda.Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.comBlogger208125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-78827913334820930792023-06-27T12:40:00.002+10:002023-06-27T12:40:35.439+10:00Things We Learnt<p> "Things We Learnt" and I hope to add to them as we go along, they are in no particular order.</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Things break.</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Is it
wise to have things that serve a dual purpose, if it breaks then you
loose two or more systems</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Spare
parts, stock up wisely the best thing to do prior to a voyage is to ask around, see if you can get an idea on what your type of vessel has had fail. Every one will have a tale to tell and what was important to them. </p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Invert
cans of antifoul, his sounds like a good idea however all the heavy metal
still falls to the bottom of the can once stood the right way up. I
think the real message should be, stir cans of antifoul vigorously before
use, and then again and again before decanting into roller trays or
spray equipment.
</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Clear
flush the water tank fill hose prior to topping up the tanks. Pre
taste and inspect water before filling tanks, use a charcoal pre
filter</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Check
the operation of a gas detector by holding an unlit lighter under the
sensor and pressing the lighter’s valve.</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Citrus hand cleaner with pumice grit, (fast orange etc) to clean power cords tenders and fenders</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">While
electronic navigation plays a central role on most boats today, paper
charts should have their place at the sensible sailor’s navigation
station. No Chart Plotter can match the “ overall picture”
offered by paper charts, or the backup benefit in an electronics
failure no matter how it was caused.<b> </b></p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Chart Plotters, dont become a satellite aided grounding statistic. If you only have one chartplotter, keep it zoomed in. You really want to see the detail, there has been the loss of several vessels due to the chart plotter being zoomed out to see the destination miles away. Zooming out to this scale removes important details like reefs and rocks.</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"> Saving night vision: We have
red floor lights in the cabin and throughout the vessel; these do
help to keep night vision when we need to go below or before coming
on shift. Once we have worked out our passage plan and entered all
the problems and marked all the clearing bearings on the paper charts
and into the chart plotter we make sure we don’t mark any areas of
interest with pink or red lines, we want to make sure they are
visible under red light. Another trick I have learnt is instead of
only using the night dimming function of the chart plotter I have a
square of red acrylic that I can Velcro to the face of the chart
plotter. We have found that we can still see the detail of the chart
and save our night vision at the same time. If your instruments are
too bright, squares of red acrylic can be cut to fit the face of your
instrumentation. </p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">The previous owner decided to take the brand plaque from the steering compass
flip it over and have it engraved with the vessels name. While this
looked pretty he screwed it back on to the compass housing using
plated steel screws. It wasn’t long after taking possession of the
vessel, I was getting concerned with the steering compass performance and was about to head out to do some checks. Then as I was getting a closer look at the compass and had removed the outer cover I noticed rust bubbles on the chrome screws. The compass took
off and changed about ten degrees when I removed the screws and it
hasn’t worked better. So it is well worth your while when doing
work around the compass to check the compass reading prior to
starting work then again after, while this isn’t a definitive test
at least you will have some idea that what you have done has either
changed the magnetic field of your vessel or not and it will need to
be sorted out before heading too far afield. It is always a good
idea to swing the compass after any work, or after being tied up at
the dock for some time.</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Wind generators and exploding blades, it does happen. Our last set
of blades lasted 9 years of use through all sorts of weather without
mishap. With a little human intervention you can minimize the risk
of the blades letting go. To keep the wind generator from going into
free wheel and over revving keep a load on the generator. If you are
in strong winds and the batteries are getting close to fully charged
it’s time to put the brakes on for a while. I did some
investigation and found when the battery levels are low and can take
all the wind generator can output, the generator doesn’t easily get
to the high speed spin. I found that when the generator is loaded it
will walk on the blades, similar to prop walk and will slow before
starting again, the process continues time and time again until the
batteries start to become fully charged. The load reduces when the
batteries are reaching the fully charged state and the prop walk
doesn’t happen as much, and without load before you know it the
generator is going into over speed even though it’s not supposed to
due to inbuilt electronic braking. Other things you can do to reduce
the risk? If a storm or high winds are headed your way turn the
brakes on or tie the generator off so it won’t run. Don’t run
you wind generator when tied up at the dock and you are charging the
batteries with shore power at the same time, Its bloody annoying for
your neighbors and even the quite generators can get on your nerves
after a while, secondly your batteries will be topped up and not load the generator. </p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"> Pickling the water maker, if you need to have your water maker
pickled when you are not going to be using it for a while make sure
you use the chemicals supplied by the manufacturer. We had an
expensive rebuild on our pump when we sent it for a service, it looks
like our water maker had previously been pickled with the wrong
solution not the manufactures recommended product. The problem here
is that the use of incorrect chemicals can damage the plastics
commonly used in systems. So in our case instead of a rebuild we
required a complete new pump at 3 times the price. By paying
slightly more for the pickling solution from the manufacture can mean
a better total cost of ownership. The next best bit of advice I can
say about a water maker is to flush it with fresh water when you have
finished, they are like any other piece of equipment, wash the salt
off or out from inside will prolong their life. And what ever you do if you have a Spectra system never use sodium metabisulphite to pickle it, there those who have no idea and will recommend it because that's what they use in their brand of watermaker. Do not follow their advice or you will ruin the plastics in the system. </p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><a name="_GoBack"></a>
We have experienced times when ships ( large <900’ ships) are
anything up to a mile ahead of the plotted AIS position, the position
isn’t static but moving at the same speed as the vessel being
recorded by radar. Beware of relying on AIS positions as being 100%
accurate, while I am sure we have seen them advertised as radar,
these units are not radar. When working well and all the local
traffic is transmitting trouble free they do seem able to place
vessels on the display very close to their actual position.
Unfortunately there is room for error due to a multitude of reasons,
everything from propagation delays, outside interference, transmitter
equipment faults, receiver errors, and the list goes on and I won’t
go into these here as it’s not in the scope of the article. Only
ships of 300 gross tonnage and upwards are required to have it and
often it is the fishing boats and smaller vessels that are a bigger
risk near the coast due to the sheer number of them. So radar is
still the best at seeing what is around you. If you want radar buy
radar, if you want a tool for gaining information of ships in and
around your area of operation then get AIS as well. We use it a lot
as another tool to make it safer out on the water, gives us a ship
name to call by radio. But just don’t rely upon it for safely
finding all targets and placing them on the plotter where they really
are.
</p><p>
</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"> Wire crimps need to be put on correctly to be of any use</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Same goes for swaged rigging fittings, they need to be put on correctly so they dont break loose.</p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Something we learnt early on is to read sealant tube instructions
and especially check the list of non acid sealant contents or look at
the cleanup on the back. Acid based silicone can be a problem if used
on metal.</p>
<p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">We have
found the product CLR has a multitude of uses on board. I use it to
remove rust stains from gel coat and painted surfaces. Removing
calcium from around fresh water fittings. </p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">If you like to spray a boat wash which has phosphoric acid as an ingredient be aware that some sealants for bedding deck fittings can become either soft or actually start to crumble if left exposed to the acid for some time. </p><p class="western" lang="en-US" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"> To help keep crew on and have a good handle when moving along the
deck we have replaced the top wire of the lifelines with stainless
steel tube, this makes for a better hand hold and is better to fall
against in a sea way. It’s not for everyone but it is an option
that has worked well for us. </p><p><br /></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-90892276416029109592023-05-15T17:43:00.006+10:002023-05-16T07:12:48.531+10:00Exploding Propeller Rope Cutter <p>An expensive day out. Just how did a plastic shopping bag cause the
destruction of $800.00 rope cutter designed to chop through large
ropes.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOln9l_dZt2gkTD2_8OkNcuao4yhY_7dpBMOQHFggLb-K7jIgrBzSR55ySep3eQ8BE-bzVmOo0TRbIq5Lh5_GWg5j2DE04_3G3WLgr5OzAzmjJqbrMnfvtnOVMt92qjsObKxRpo3xpHsIDttcGtjvD6vBDo53pyQTj_spNixC--wbzOBw_4P-5-OfS/s5472/DSC00885.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOln9l_dZt2gkTD2_8OkNcuao4yhY_7dpBMOQHFggLb-K7jIgrBzSR55ySep3eQ8BE-bzVmOo0TRbIq5Lh5_GWg5j2DE04_3G3WLgr5OzAzmjJqbrMnfvtnOVMt92qjsObKxRpo3xpHsIDttcGtjvD6vBDo53pyQTj_spNixC--wbzOBw_4P-5-OfS/w500-h333/DSC00885.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While all the advertising lets you know how good these are at chopping large rope, it was the $0.001 plastic bag that brought it undone. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>We seem to have a very good idea how it was destroyed, and it could happen to any choppy choppy
spinney spinney moving blade style rope cutter. When we pulled the boat out
of the water for annual maintenance we found the blade broken off our
very expensive rope cutter. On further examination something blue
was in the bearing area and could be seen in the hole left where the
blade had broken free from. As it turned out, this blue material was
what we now believe was the remains of a shopping bag. There was a couple of metres of it and it took some time unwinding to get it free of the
shaft, we could have cut it but where’s the fun in that. We and
others we have talked to all seem to come to the same conclusion. The
bag material was fine enough to fit between the blades as they
rotated and one blade caught the bag and it was drawn into the fine
gap between the rotating blades and filled the bearing area until
enough plastic was wound in and not being able to compress any more
caused the case to break off.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgI147nKCozABhGascRDNH0GrtpbUjMyY2l0vQ7bzU3DXExebhaEb92wxko2DUsC_m7cMy7I1AoiwHkQiOJ5uqrEVpCMSkTMJqpWVmL0IwRa-9q1XTU_aG7ugjAxqb1NzDxo0sjURpm_2AuPoTKQStIl9HF5OXpqn1KHAlzrfM66ZSNKwpHQgHQ3dM/s2560/SAM_0248.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="2560" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgI147nKCozABhGascRDNH0GrtpbUjMyY2l0vQ7bzU3DXExebhaEb92wxko2DUsC_m7cMy7I1AoiwHkQiOJ5uqrEVpCMSkTMJqpWVmL0IwRa-9q1XTU_aG7ugjAxqb1NzDxo0sjURpm_2AuPoTKQStIl9HF5OXpqn1KHAlzrfM66ZSNKwpHQgHQ3dM/w482-h361/SAM_0248.JPG" width="482" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old rope cutter in happier days almost ready to go back in the water</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Before returning the
boat to the water we changed style of rope cutter, while we believe
the choppy choppy spinney blade rope cutter unit was OK for rope, we
had seen enough plastic in the water to feel we would likely be
throwing good money away if we replaced it with the same type.
Besides it was a bit too expensive for our budget if we had to pay
postage then get it through customs.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJ1yhPR3C1ChMSdSeuujSCFgapQpszBnWj5H3CDsG3QHFXIkRsI9Mh4b2qqYngllG1UDeF-qzcR1QVA1y7S9ljIaFcvEY31wReUaivZcbOSTrXCOeXyEqKkHKApzUzfbl3cJu1-mFALfjnsBEEus9ZE50_kRayuMJN4XGoLG-IQ7ZjOdJmQTgFM-v/s600/rope%20cutter%20bigger.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJ1yhPR3C1ChMSdSeuujSCFgapQpszBnWj5H3CDsG3QHFXIkRsI9Mh4b2qqYngllG1UDeF-qzcR1QVA1y7S9ljIaFcvEY31wReUaivZcbOSTrXCOeXyEqKkHKApzUzfbl3cJu1-mFALfjnsBEEus9ZE50_kRayuMJN4XGoLG-IQ7ZjOdJmQTgFM-v/w416-h416/rope%20cutter%20bigger.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new type rope cutter we fitted, simple shaft driven rope cutter, no choppy choppy moving parts, and no bearings to replace annually, and as long as you sharpen it when out of the water it can cut through thick ropes in the blink of the eye. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimNuc9Ftd0BBjNhr6VeY_OidtQQGX7CuxMadVJ0I62a_ANzDuC50J4rr-SSSHdVsyuIrmL5dqESb2gS4M26sVxCy1S9HiLIj1C3sjrPMMOqGXUY0sN5gJ_M1nf2LXWwcRKf5cN2Vi2NPA2lMzFtw1s-cN7B_P2rHUctiXXrAG5QajTU5xR_L-HwxaN/s640/prop,%20rope%20cutter,%20shaft%20anoide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="640" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimNuc9Ftd0BBjNhr6VeY_OidtQQGX7CuxMadVJ0I62a_ANzDuC50J4rr-SSSHdVsyuIrmL5dqESb2gS4M26sVxCy1S9HiLIj1C3sjrPMMOqGXUY0sN5gJ_M1nf2LXWwcRKf5cN2Vi2NPA2lMzFtw1s-cN7B_P2rHUctiXXrAG5QajTU5xR_L-HwxaN/w577-h386/prop,%20rope%20cutter,%20shaft%20anoide.jpg" width="577" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All ready to go, if using this type of rope cutter you need to make sure that the diameter of the propeller hub isn't so big that it stops the blade from being able to get purchase to cut through the tangled rope. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>I don't know if it
was fate or not but our maiden voyage after we went back into the
water after fitting the new rope cutter we ran over a partly
submerged fishing float and line. The 25 mm (1”) rope cut through
so quickly we didn’t even notice a change in the pitch of the
engine. We do know it was 25mm because we heard the float bounce
under the boat and we turned around and went back to pick it up.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGaSX6vgrTT2F8W_yroiUQ2HrFvCjgD5JoXnfLO-JijHrsnSSHQLNuDfM40xF_0MU5HUrCpNoY5qNu1fQEdfEe2XEfJkd2SykpLrCKPfMoR61jizk9fuhBgaAjPEx6rNaQzZt-c6VgTm9GVaV0UoBsSu6-U6uSWuAqEnELQ_i-h7PC3Cxe43bWSmGy/s4254/BPRO0018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="4254" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGaSX6vgrTT2F8W_yroiUQ2HrFvCjgD5JoXnfLO-JijHrsnSSHQLNuDfM40xF_0MU5HUrCpNoY5qNu1fQEdfEe2XEfJkd2SykpLrCKPfMoR61jizk9fuhBgaAjPEx6rNaQzZt-c6VgTm9GVaV0UoBsSu6-U6uSWuAqEnELQ_i-h7PC3Cxe43bWSmGy/w511-h393/BPRO0018.jpg" width="511" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rope we picked up after the rope cutter did its job.</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">We travelled through
Asia for a couple of years and found it was a very important safety
device, but I don't think all submerged, or floating ropes and
plastic bags are only found in Asia, where ever you are it could be
worthwhile getting a rope cutter put on.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXC0eL5ftsvdjxFLvr-7pkf5i2m74M3i3vNdwRaOh1Vjg98SR6S8JP-gaLTTvCDlYOv_E3FO9agTqCXY-f0hzLVPqjhUX_Hy548bLry_5egdJyNG17fcDQnzmtiDY9XOeslRy-V5pvpJXy4NT8KAUnw5PZ5HNz0Yqg0OXxku1asISD-BnIPxe6kO9/s4254/BPRO0014.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="4254" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXC0eL5ftsvdjxFLvr-7pkf5i2m74M3i3vNdwRaOh1Vjg98SR6S8JP-gaLTTvCDlYOv_E3FO9agTqCXY-f0hzLVPqjhUX_Hy548bLry_5egdJyNG17fcDQnzmtiDY9XOeslRy-V5pvpJXy4NT8KAUnw5PZ5HNz0Yqg0OXxku1asISD-BnIPxe6kO9/w493-h379/BPRO0014.jpg" width="493" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our friends boat prop, this was picked up when at anchor and got wrapped up on the prop when they tried to pick up the anchor in the middle of the night when a storm was rolling in. They didn't have any type of rope cutter fitted, and this mess didn't allow them to get under way.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-42679901924932110962023-05-06T14:54:00.009+10:002023-06-05T12:21:05.834+10:00Deep Water Anchoring<p>If your headed to Indonesia then this post should be of interest. </p><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We rarely anchored in deep water before we went cruising full time
and headed off to distant shores. When we cruised the East Coast we
thought ten metres was deep water and tried to avoid anchoring in any
thing much deeper than five or six metres. There was a couple of
times we did anchor in ten metres but it wasn't often. We would
easily and often anchor in five, this depth would allow the tide to
run out two metres and still leave us with a meter under the keel at
low tide.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOOSSJQmAAqIsqj2nVCdUr-0R3QK1kTuAbxXrmJVDQDGzA_QFybY1q6nFrEuMOxKVxzY6z_I7d1qfea9M_0Y0Hl5sRiyOlykACXw082hJRrL7bkK9SP8262HZtETqbmPtwDv1BpBcZE7zHiRFMjYc30rE6B04wKwC0qmdclRdkt0YiQ8O6a4Pr_Hh/s1191/yacht_grounded.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="1191" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOOSSJQmAAqIsqj2nVCdUr-0R3QK1kTuAbxXrmJVDQDGzA_QFybY1q6nFrEuMOxKVxzY6z_I7d1qfea9M_0Y0Hl5sRiyOlykACXw082hJRrL7bkK9SP8262HZtETqbmPtwDv1BpBcZE7zHiRFMjYc30rE6B04wKwC0qmdclRdkt0YiQ8O6a4Pr_Hh/w514-h289/yacht_grounded.jpg" width="514" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not how you want to begin the day. </td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">When we were
getting ready to head off to SE Asia we were bombarded by different
views on how to anchor in the deeper water. One couple that had done
several trips into Asia would give out advice to anyone who would
listen. After talking with them briefly about anchoring we started to
doubt our preparation, we began to think we didn’t have enough
rode or for that matter how could we actually carry enough. We really
don't know how this couple anchored exactly, what we do know is they
carried an extremely long length of chain. We later found out this chain was
smaller in diameter than our own, and they had an old generation anchor on the end of it. We can only assume they
carried extra length of smaller chain and tried to maintain the scope
mantra often repeated in online forums, training courses and yacht
club bars.
</div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Fortunately we ran
into other couples who had done several trips in SE Asia and they
explained that one hundred metres of chain is more than enough and we
shouldn’t worry at all. They went on to explain that in the deeper
water we can start to rethink the ratios we are consistently told
work and start to properly use the catenary effect of the chain.
Anchoring in deeper water really calls for a different approach to
the rode, depth, scope ratio’s we have all heard so much about. One
of the couples had anchored in thirty metres regularly when they
explored the eastern islands of the Indonesian archipelago.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">For us anchoring in
shallower water had been the norm, we had been using snubbers for
some time and had worked out an easy to use system. We had been in
some serious storms at anchor and could see the chain pulled taught
while the snubber absorbed the energy generated by the snatch loads
this reduced the chance of damaging the vessel, breaking the chain or
dislodging the anchor. We saw time and time again that when anchoring
in shallower water it didn’t take much of a storm or increase in
wind strength to pull the anchor chain straight and taught. This is
mainly due to the lack of depth not allowing enough length of chain to hang into deep water to develop and maintain the required curve for
the catenary effect absorbing the shock loads on the anchor.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">To anchor in deeper
water was not going to be as tricky as we first thought. However it
is a whole anchoring system not just the anchor and chain.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Now I have said
that, the first thing I am going to discuss is the Anchors.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Anchors</b></p>
<p style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Size does matter! and the bigger the anchor you can fit on the bow of
your vessel the better. Look at the selection chart for the anchor
you have and compare it to the other manufactures charts. You are
likely to find most anchor manufactures will recommend anchors that
are too light for the size of the vessel. I am lead to believe this
is a marketing ploy to stay competitive with other manufactures who also under size the recommended anchors. If a
recommended size anchor is cheaper for a given size of vessel, they
are more than likely to sell more anchors, and the way I think it
works is when boat builders fit out new yachts, they are looking to
reduce costs. They will purchase the size recommended by the anchor
manufacturer, not the size recommended by the cruising community, who
know from experience the recommended anchors are too small for anything other than a picnic stop for lunch on a calm day.
</p>
<p style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">I could go on and explain the benefits of the new generation anchors,
giving a break down of brands and types but I won’t as I have found
it causes to much friction, people have a habit of defending even their worst purchase choices. </p><p style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">What I do know from experience is, the
new generation anchors work better. We should also know from
extensive testing by yachting magazines, private individuals and even
company sponsored anchor testing the new generation anchors out
perform the older generation anchors on just about all points of the tests. Yes I know every now or then one of the old generation anchors does come up and surprises all the testers, however it's rarely consistently repeated. </p>
<p style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">So the best thing to say is when purchasing an anchor, get one of the
new generation anchors. Look carefully at the sizing guides to get an
average weight for an anchor to suit your vessel. Discard any guides
that recommend remarkably lightweight anchors through the range then
go up 2 sizes and you should have an anchor that allows you to stay
put when the wind comes up in the middle of the night. Another thing
to look for in the test data is a common thread, if an anchors
holding power is low → medium more times than it is high (even though it's advertised as "Lloyd's listed as High Holding")I would
give it a miss. </p><p style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Reality check: High holding is ok however in the cold of night an anchor with super high holding rating certainly helps soothe the nerves when the wind comes up.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Snubber’s</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">We have found a
snubber is a vital component of the anchoring system if you use all
chain rode. A snubber is a length of strong but stretchy rope
(nylon) anything from 5 to 15 meters long, one end attaches to the
anchor chain as the last of the chain is deployed and the other end
tied round the bow mooring cleat. We have seen all manor of snubber’s
in our travels and unfortunately a lot would not do what they are
supposed to do.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Snubber's are best
made of nylon because it stretches and is strong, it has good UV
protection, will work wet, is easy on the hands when handling and is
easily spliced. To have an idea how big a diameter you need
requires experimentation. Start by looking at what wind strength
your anchor chain starts to become straight, (every vessel is different) its at this wind speed
you want the snubber to be adsorbing the energy from the vessel
movements. On our vessel we use a long snubber that is two
millimetres smaller than the recommended anchor rope diameter. There
is no magic bullet with one size fits all when it comes to snubber’s,
there are so many variables and a decision must be arrived at for the
individual vessel. Things that will ultimately decide the length and
diameter will include vessel windage, displacement, chain size
(weight) and anchoring points. I recently read in an online forum
where there are some who use mooring micro snubber’s and mooring
lines, unfortunately for them nothing good can come from these
setups. Mooring lines and equipment isn't made for anchoring and has
the potential to be disastrous.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>The amount of
stretch is directly proportional to length.</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">• A 8m long
snubber can stretch twice as much as a 4m long snubber.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Or inversely
proportional to the square of the diameter.</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">• A 10mm diameter
snubber can stretch twice as much as a 14mm diameter snubber.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As an example a 12mm diameter nylon snubber when new (breaking
strain 3000kg) has about the same breaking strength as 8mm Grade L
chain (3272kg breaking strain)</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBsZUpFbICuYEsvgJKgfvPMqqTKpJ1Xjw_y1bRBPIpUNVINR3-uMyM41ioduWJezX9e6bAeyCZNh7kSq1B8FbRmCe7blCDRg4vx0N88-abLMjyu1b1AfzWgFzSYL4YRSOINFlNMwrsJw8jpIsp-IvvgjK0cOYb5ktFssbzwEo2KJKhyk0xEd9rTgl/s2592/25%20Knots%20chain%20is%20straight%20Dyneema%20loop%20in%20use%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBsZUpFbICuYEsvgJKgfvPMqqTKpJ1Xjw_y1bRBPIpUNVINR3-uMyM41ioduWJezX9e6bAeyCZNh7kSq1B8FbRmCe7blCDRg4vx0N88-abLMjyu1b1AfzWgFzSYL4YRSOINFlNMwrsJw8jpIsp-IvvgjK0cOYb5ktFssbzwEo2KJKhyk0xEd9rTgl/w501-h375/25%20Knots%20chain%20is%20straight%20Dyneema%20loop%20in%20use%20.JPG" width="501" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Testing a new snubber @30 Knots in shallow anchorage the chain has straightened out</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">A smaller diameter nylon snubber is strong enough to add the
required stretch in the system, however a large diameter snubber or
a snubber made of the wrong material totally defeats its intended
purpose. I have heard catamaran owners happily telling others they
have an oversized or ruggedly constructed bridle for anchoring. While
this sounds great in theory, in practice this will only add to the
grief of having problems when anchoring. Without incorporating a
springer into the bridle there will certainly not be enough energy
absorbed due to the boat moving when the weather comes up. If the ruggedly constructed bridle has limited stretch the only thing that's going to happen is the anchor will be slowly dislodged one little shock load at a time. </p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIlfU2ODuv0GwD5Sks1mhFsH1ygwOVAJW2z-JaTAYt_X3_SO_ZKAtXjyAOI-hqi-f_HPbJtEgCMzpFJInKWFsIqOdlhrQo1SCQZrBF1QYMo9JyGHk3Ih1s2OPrxszphZccMEHaQfvp0VYm6G8DJx_k5oRfweVG8OdhUpL0jfsNCGpOd4NIGASHGrQ/s5472/Dyneema%20loop.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIlfU2ODuv0GwD5Sks1mhFsH1ygwOVAJW2z-JaTAYt_X3_SO_ZKAtXjyAOI-hqi-f_HPbJtEgCMzpFJInKWFsIqOdlhrQo1SCQZrBF1QYMo9JyGHk3Ih1s2OPrxszphZccMEHaQfvp0VYm6G8DJx_k5oRfweVG8OdhUpL0jfsNCGpOd4NIGASHGrQ/w466-h311/Dyneema%20loop.JPG" width="466" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We attach our snubber to our anchor chain with a Dyneema loop, makes it easy quick and light weight. The best thing is its easy to go through the bow roller and doesn't fall off when you need it most as the boat starts to move about. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQWlHXj2WZ0YnrK_xdbaJPYGo79NZWC1nrufumYGU_kG-zmRrqG-sCM7B9uuHOeotzz81BVliRmCy6pLQnhrJdPVwAmbWZq9Xr1ewd0zO4UR7wPfH-OW0NjwmxoUNp-Qn4O3YtNeFJDX_k4gf_FX822wjpnLon5oc-eBrFlYgUhsD32nLQuKmetc7/s5472/Good%20quality%20thimble%20top%20with%20bigger%20cross%20section%20and%20better%20minimum%20bend%20radius%20%20Bottom%20thimble%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQWlHXj2WZ0YnrK_xdbaJPYGo79NZWC1nrufumYGU_kG-zmRrqG-sCM7B9uuHOeotzz81BVliRmCy6pLQnhrJdPVwAmbWZq9Xr1ewd0zO4UR7wPfH-OW0NjwmxoUNp-Qn4O3YtNeFJDX_k4gf_FX822wjpnLon5oc-eBrFlYgUhsD32nLQuKmetc7/w458-h305/Good%20quality%20thimble%20top%20with%20bigger%20cross%20section%20and%20better%20minimum%20bend%20radius%20%20Bottom%20thimble%201.JPG" width="458" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use better solid thimbles in the snubber (top), the standard thimbles can distort badly and fail under high storm loads (as we found out)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIA8bmA2IxdeXrPyvB03LI86mYuXntK07isbAaz3RHqAS0Bktic7TMwqdGxzKLJrL1KGq69yHSfU-gB3pP2wCvkQnVTUnMSFyOT1KYctTpbcc6N3cvmCwjTfLrzkAPHHGZ_lK6zxpudVhZIbr8fZxgtzPQ0kiXCIgkJ7-GL425yGSNVHLtygKfAD1c/s4608/Staged%20Snubber%20Deployed%20-%20In%20real%20use%20more%20chain%20for%20%20a%20larger%20loop%20will%20be%20required.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIA8bmA2IxdeXrPyvB03LI86mYuXntK07isbAaz3RHqAS0Bktic7TMwqdGxzKLJrL1KGq69yHSfU-gB3pP2wCvkQnVTUnMSFyOT1KYctTpbcc6N3cvmCwjTfLrzkAPHHGZ_lK6zxpudVhZIbr8fZxgtzPQ0kiXCIgkJ7-GL425yGSNVHLtygKfAD1c/w620-h465/Staged%20Snubber%20Deployed%20-%20In%20real%20use%20more%20chain%20for%20%20a%20larger%20loop%20will%20be%20required.jpg" width="620" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snubber to chain connection, only takes as long to attach as doing up a button and doesn't fall off, and can be made onboard if you have the raw materials, Dyneema cord and 5 minutes of time. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Galvanised Anchor
Chain</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Selecting the right
type of chain can be very confusing due to different grading systems.
There are a variety of link sizes and the best thing to do is take
your chain capstan with you when you do make the final decision on
the chain supplier. Make sure the chain is a perfect fit into the
capstan and does not bind when the chain rotated through it.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Is it better to have
a long length of high strength light chain or a shorter or same
length of lower strength heavy chain? Both have energy absorption, so
there is not much point in using high strength chain as it corrodes
quicker and can actually be brittle, which can cause handling
problems. When its all said and done it is certainly best to use a
long length of heavy chain!</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">We get by with 110m
of chain, and I don't remember there is any time we thought we needed any
more. We do however keep a 100m coil of nylon and 30m of chain as
back up in the locker, but have only used some of the rope when it
was time to cut off several metres for various jobs.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Anchor Chain
Storage</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">In a lot of
anchorages the bottom is sand, broken coral, mud (some times putrid)
and or a deep layer of the ever present plastic bag so have a
pressure saltwater wash down hose, you may have real problems if you
rely on a bucket on a string. We know of one cruiser who ended up
with several kilograms of putrid mud in the anchor locker due to blocked
drains that required him to deploy all his chain, clear the drains
while washing out the mud. What we found is that plastic bags or pieces come up in the mud from the chain or anchor and it doesn't take much for a piece to block the locker drain.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Anchoring In Deep
Water</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">You can pretty much
throw out the old scope ratios we have all read about in the sacred
texts that were written by the ancient mariners. So for example if we were to go with the standard 5:1 that is
used in shallower water. Enough chain to obtain the 5:1 chain to
depth ratio in 25 metres of water is going to require 125 metres of
chain, and if sticking to the convention even more if the weather is
coming up.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">So now on to
something we used successfully. This will really only work if you can
anchor successfully in shallower water. If your vessel usually skates
off when the breeze comes up then this won't be a fix, and you are
likely to still skate off on the breeze. Every one we talked to who
had successfully used this technique had a new generation anchor, but
that's not to say it won't work with older styles of anchor. Some who
were unsuccessful did also have trouble anchoring in shallower water,
and with out being to specific it was usually a combination of
problems. These included under sized chain, undersized or old
generation anchor or both, poor use of snubber or not using a snubber
at all. </p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">What technique
worked for us</span></b>: Lay out 20 metres of chain and then lay out a length
double the depth and don’t forget to use a good elastic nylon
springer (minimum of 6 metres long), if its a bit windy or you
require a little more security add another 10 - 20 metres of chain.
So if anchoring in 20 metres lay out 60-80 metres of chain. If your
really worried, let out all your anchor chain from the locker.
While this twenty metres and a length double the depth doesn't sound
like enough, due to several factors you will find it should be. Keep in mind if your securing the snubber to the mooring
cleat at deck level of the bow roller then allow for this, deploy
extra chain double the distance from water to the bow roller.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHzsSGA1iO1geKgU-nzu1qQX_4mDM6AIaSUznw5tPhTmABJUWwzeMPrBDyGPG_jDyQFOVlJU3JEi1b3elL9M8V2QqlbwhSIfBF-KOsRkaWMcbXBS0kdSOjoo9sFa5faZhYfVFCwcwAqbBc8j0rtR6xCK2Tr-DUI2-q84fwq-s_hyxSR-PDNux_NnJ/s916/catenary-approximation%20new.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="493" data-original-width="916" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHzsSGA1iO1geKgU-nzu1qQX_4mDM6AIaSUznw5tPhTmABJUWwzeMPrBDyGPG_jDyQFOVlJU3JEi1b3elL9M8V2QqlbwhSIfBF-KOsRkaWMcbXBS0kdSOjoo9sFa5faZhYfVFCwcwAqbBc8j0rtR6xCK2Tr-DUI2-q84fwq-s_hyxSR-PDNux_NnJ/w640-h344/catenary-approximation%20new.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water Depth Catenary chart</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">How does it work</span></b>: In
the deeper water the chain is allowed to hang into the depths. There
is a lot more weight of chain suspended in water and now the catenary
effect is very effective at absorbing the energy created when the
boat is moving. Where as in the shallower water it doesn't take much
additional wind to make the chain straighten out. When the chain
straightens out there is very limited (or no) energy absorption, and this
allows any vessel movement to be transferred directly to the anchor
and the vessels cleats. This additional load from the increased wind
strength and movement of the vessel due to wave movement creates high
shock loads which can quickly dislodge the anchor or damage the boat.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">You can have the
best technique, and be anchored nice and snug in deep water,
however if the wind turns and the fetch allows a large swell to roll
into the anchorage all this work can come undone. We had this happen
on occasions during the <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2022/12/rough-guide-to-monsoon-seasons-au-top.html" target="_blank">monsoon transition months</a>, or a <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2022/12/rough-guide-to-monsoon-seasons-au-top.html" target="_blank">Sumatra</a> winds coming in at O'Dark Thirty, always
have a plan B mapped out.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">We also anchored in very deep water where it went from the shore to 40 metres in three to four boat lengths, while this sounds crazy we would set up a stern line to shore and then drop the anchor out in 50 plus metres, then back down while bringing in the stern line. We found that even with a steep sloping bottom the anchor would dig in and wouldn't budge. Having the stern line stopped the boat swinging and pulling the anchor out into the deeper water. Even still it did give us an uneasy feeling looking out the back and feeling like we could just step out onto the shore.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Below is an excerpt from Rocna Anchors site, and while I am not
advertising them, I believe this to be a good description of the
definition of old generation anchors.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Old generation
anchors include most types and designs dating before the Bügel
(1986) and Delta (1990). Because the Bügel uses what we consider to
be some new generation design characteristics whereas the Delta is
first and foremost a plow, these two types define a bit of an overlap
between the 'old' and 'new' generations which marks the transition
from old to new on the timeline.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Below is the remains
of our snubber after being caught on a lee shore with three nasty
storm fronts coming in unannounced at O'Dark Thirty with the South
China Sea as fetch. While we weren't anchored in deep water, I have
put it in for reference, and why it's important to use high spec gear
in the anchor system, and an example of how a simple Dyneema loop can
hold fast. </p><div><span face="myriad-pro, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9X58_OvoUIYLrHmLF8NZo7Mjq9hE4LJKcC4COf_kJyt6375_5KoFUkrE-ScAWOVP4cyWVMsyVjbXXZJ91Ftra6pqBbW0wsP2h0xti7sGss2phYiOHqInFBg6BI6R3zGrAmRQs1kVfywHijzBCqYIuGHrQ4QwG6M9NCFF94_G2CQp84chOWQdntK-/s3448/Dyneema%20Loop%20Compression%20Marks%20%20on%20Standard%20Gal%20Thimble%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3448" data-original-width="2873" height="602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9X58_OvoUIYLrHmLF8NZo7Mjq9hE4LJKcC4COf_kJyt6375_5KoFUkrE-ScAWOVP4cyWVMsyVjbXXZJ91Ftra6pqBbW0wsP2h0xti7sGss2phYiOHqInFBg6BI6R3zGrAmRQs1kVfywHijzBCqYIuGHrQ4QwG6M9NCFF94_G2CQp84chOWQdntK-/w502-h602/Dyneema%20Loop%20Compression%20Marks%20%20on%20Standard%20Gal%20Thimble%201.jpg" width="502" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is how well the Dyneema Loop holds on, this thimble was at the anchor chain end and held on until the snubber became so over worked it melted and then parted. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_HDYYK2Q9HFRk_HLVfrZJr1dSaFFBPXchLIFsKsGZMHXGqBQQcbjSZZMlgYjjiFDVPONIbrSoICbUC4_Uggx08K3TZOi0TF4x2qUZ2d1wJyNf0KZbRAhuE6Vg-OppTj0NoQGtnQEsKY_lPYVg4LEVFQkcIz76ed-tKBtTlkOMjsXCepZUVvbs1rs/s4608/Snubber%20Rope%20Remains.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_HDYYK2Q9HFRk_HLVfrZJr1dSaFFBPXchLIFsKsGZMHXGqBQQcbjSZZMlgYjjiFDVPONIbrSoICbUC4_Uggx08K3TZOi0TF4x2qUZ2d1wJyNf0KZbRAhuE6Vg-OppTj0NoQGtnQEsKY_lPYVg4LEVFQkcIz76ed-tKBtTlkOMjsXCepZUVvbs1rs/w587-h440/Snubber%20Rope%20Remains.JPG" width="587" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What remains of a well used snubber, while its not easy to see the snubber worked so hard during the storm the core is fused together from friction. Interesting evenings entertainment, three storm fronts came in at O'Dark Thirty and had us pinned on a lee shore until we were able to pull the anchor up and get out of there. The snubber parting happened shortly before getting underway.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNoKXZBvo0fFqSztVSd3xAYkmLE0-h4Qn8IeN7dvmJKrRBhR-U9oaD5WgaJ3_L6OOZuo8O-HAqZjM25UjCsfOnE8oI2_mtOiDferHhTJMKbJuIrK-9DHbP6djEgwWj0UWCnGWbIFy4iuXhSnFuvM31rZPpWjN3IAArmZcLo2hve5KIZ4ANE7TYSh1/s1848/Standard%20Gal%20Thimble%20Distortion.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1848" data-original-width="1688" height="561" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNoKXZBvo0fFqSztVSd3xAYkmLE0-h4Qn8IeN7dvmJKrRBhR-U9oaD5WgaJ3_L6OOZuo8O-HAqZjM25UjCsfOnE8oI2_mtOiDferHhTJMKbJuIrK-9DHbP6djEgwWj0UWCnGWbIFy4iuXhSnFuvM31rZPpWjN3IAArmZcLo2hve5KIZ4ANE7TYSh1/w512-h561/Standard%20Gal%20Thimble%20Distortion.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back end shot of the distorted thimble. We now source heavier duty thimbles for use in our anchoring system. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span face="myriad-pro, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white;">I am not promoting these anchors and I don't want to upset people however here is a link to <a href="https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/best-anchors-8-new-generation-designs-suitable-for-every-boat-83917" style="font-size: medium;" target="_blank">Yachting Monthly</a> with a short list of New Generation Anchors, and there isn't a Plow or Delter to be seen. I have worked in the marine industry for over 20 years and lived aboard for 13 years and have sailed most of my life. I've had my fair share of old generation anchors. One such incident sticks in my mind when anchored in a bay with good holding, we woke when the wind came up, I was searching for my trousers while Deb was looking out the portlight saying all the boats in the anchorage are all leaving at once. It took a moment for what she said to make sence, they weren't leaving we were going backward through the anchored boats at speed, quick start the engine!!!. </span></div><div><br /></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-78887025357457086902023-05-05T14:15:00.002+10:002023-05-15T10:34:17.560+10:00Power Outlet Sockets <div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Recently I responded to a forum where members tried to find the cause
of cigarette lighter socket and plugs failing. While the replies were
varied I don't believe any really addressed the root cause of the
problem. In the past I have worked through a variety of problems
with these very popular power connectors and have a few ideas of my
own I would like to share.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NJqkGrUs8DTDRs3iD55TAEP081tCy4oapHGzo0XGi8gc-lvSZklI57cgZau0EjKdVNj3xdrCMoLM1R6FeJDl4rv4q82hz0KlidngNf1cIP0gwt1S2kZZ4tham4H2Vu5DM5KdTirDVyZXx3xu_TrF5D6GOyZLVaWyOPyo4IG5z8FbSGPefsgYWPBa/s8648/plug%20and%20socket.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="8648" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NJqkGrUs8DTDRs3iD55TAEP081tCy4oapHGzo0XGi8gc-lvSZklI57cgZau0EjKdVNj3xdrCMoLM1R6FeJDl4rv4q82hz0KlidngNf1cIP0gwt1S2kZZ4tham4H2Vu5DM5KdTirDVyZXx3xu_TrF5D6GOyZLVaWyOPyo4IG5z8FbSGPefsgYWPBa/w645-h226/plug%20and%20socket.png" width="645" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cigarette Lighter Plug and Socket, the better quality units are good to 20 Amps if wired correctly.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I hope to give you
some thing to think about before you quickly write off the cigarette
lighter sockets and plugs and advocate to install Anderson style plug
in connectors. I don't believe it’s sensible moving away from the
cigarette lighter sockets totally considering a wide variety of
consumer electronics are made specifically to plug into this type of
connection for power. In reality the best option is to have both, but
keep in mind both have to be installed properly, if done incorrectly
your back to where you started, with ongoing problems.</span></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <b> </b><b><span> </span><span>Common cigarette lighter accessories found on most cruising boats</span></b><br /></span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Ki9kPx3aL9oDJPf70WMnrBz9Rg88SncQXOubmySO1n0QqL0ujbGt_Npo6QWbEDrSCrHAijy_SmNjRaAHqc6jZ8x1n0p2TC582snv3M8QQovmPGzqnPREdkyt4BBMHCSxSqqhlGpqLYglAnmlZhPCCKsuHNvwDqp7vdDJE20hIon-0oG2_a4MX7M1/s4032/20230321_154937.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Ki9kPx3aL9oDJPf70WMnrBz9Rg88SncQXOubmySO1n0QqL0ujbGt_Npo6QWbEDrSCrHAijy_SmNjRaAHqc6jZ8x1n0p2TC582snv3M8QQovmPGzqnPREdkyt4BBMHCSxSqqhlGpqLYglAnmlZhPCCKsuHNvwDqp7vdDJE20hIon-0oG2_a4MX7M1/s320/20230321_154937.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Common USB power outlets for a cigarette lighter socket</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW-NXqQOJr1Op2-Hz2mjdS-5XTnzRaDq4bkSaFhpcEVTkJ-HsOxfrRSO6D5U68ZhfV1oXXbf-lqCUFjpYb1LIpmA7iWPv3IWWXFucFbVN5DlzzK_6wLf7N2N2lUsHQYA6DBQNE4lDS5x6XhKZqMtFhMUWB-B_fQtPUnTgE8Ri2MdcdPcEFEBmSZavc/s4032/20230321_160306.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW-NXqQOJr1Op2-Hz2mjdS-5XTnzRaDq4bkSaFhpcEVTkJ-HsOxfrRSO6D5U68ZhfV1oXXbf-lqCUFjpYb1LIpmA7iWPv3IWWXFucFbVN5DlzzK_6wLf7N2N2lUsHQYA6DBQNE4lDS5x6XhKZqMtFhMUWB-B_fQtPUnTgE8Ri2MdcdPcEFEBmSZavc/s320/20230321_160306.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Laptop Charger and USB outlet for a lighter socket.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8aQ5xyGMNxsV3RVGcwp9f2ZRc8aVq6WK2Mb5tWnKNJ8sKKM61Ah-XTmPpaNU7J7IQCA3_S7gumvJZChx6uT1El-sbXo_GD0WWgK0Qn4cBsCPb1jhp2yFo1UcqY8cmztgYDAP2z3GPGrgvO-EqkwaDvZy8fJJSdQKm0mkrEqNb5RHPQw7um1_jj25/s4032/20230321_155521.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8aQ5xyGMNxsV3RVGcwp9f2ZRc8aVq6WK2Mb5tWnKNJ8sKKM61Ah-XTmPpaNU7J7IQCA3_S7gumvJZChx6uT1El-sbXo_GD0WWgK0Qn4cBsCPb1jhp2yFo1UcqY8cmztgYDAP2z3GPGrgvO-EqkwaDvZy8fJJSdQKm0mkrEqNb5RHPQw7um1_jj25/w305-h406/20230321_155521.jpg" width="305" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A small inverter, various models are powered from the lighter socket.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCP9ZKwZcQ2QovTtmNuJ9xAzJNZyo1HSj_EhqOZ4xQDHXMveCPuLzI6dkZpiRlUtVbLDn26-vMjT7uixzy51SOMZLmh0V57vn32HlRS7qzZJGeR9ux_IMf5Jvd-o4VJ1lCdIGvR6pRYH_jtT4gOfiEOIj2-ZV8AINxVjzqQLTWirIuoa7ewSN3UbP/s515/PT4476-panel-mount-with-high-current-50a-connectorImageMain-515.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="515" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKCP9ZKwZcQ2QovTtmNuJ9xAzJNZyo1HSj_EhqOZ4xQDHXMveCPuLzI6dkZpiRlUtVbLDn26-vMjT7uixzy51SOMZLmh0V57vn32HlRS7qzZJGeR9ux_IMf5Jvd-o4VJ1lCdIGvR6pRYH_jtT4gOfiEOIj2-ZV8AINxVjzqQLTWirIuoa7ewSN3UbP/s320/PT4476-panel-mount-with-high-current-50a-connectorImageMain-515.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">An Anderson connector in an easy to install panel mount.<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><b>Sockets and plugs</b>
</span><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Not all cigarette
lighter sockets and plugs are created equal. There are a lot of
plugs and sockets for sale in the market place that are just plain
junk. Unfortunately these are the cheapest and due to this fact are
usually the first to catch our eye. I have noted a lot that are
really stretching the truth as far as the ability to carry the rated
current (amps) advertised on the box. I have even seen install kits
and extension cables with the wire size so small there is no way they
could possibly supply the advertised rated current (amps) at a usable
voltage. If these cables do eventually supply the advertised rated
current, the voltage will be so low it would surely do damage to the
equipment connected.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cigarette Lighter
Plugs</span></b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjNZonaQPQpgJOkHaFXGQ1WLW3Zm1FnMzkfvRZRKnUfK8VSyL9Io2h1ip9rOEYSeZ_7yzEmR0KsfIMfO_veW2YfK5_tNE7EOn8ChSOBD5E9sK-Q3Yl2wFIDKGg3wDCZOsmSiqfE4aspYl6MAkecm2Cv6MsNxtEYMf8oj4pIr_oFShA2QxA3JJbd0SJ/s4032/20230321_154722.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjNZonaQPQpgJOkHaFXGQ1WLW3Zm1FnMzkfvRZRKnUfK8VSyL9Io2h1ip9rOEYSeZ_7yzEmR0KsfIMfO_veW2YfK5_tNE7EOn8ChSOBD5E9sK-Q3Yl2wFIDKGg3wDCZOsmSiqfE4aspYl6MAkecm2Cv6MsNxtEYMf8oj4pIr_oFShA2QxA3JJbd0SJ/w373-h280/20230321_154722.jpg" width="373" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A good quality marine grade plug, this one has side contacts that will lock into slots in the matching socket. There is also a sealing ring to help keep moisture from entering the socket and plug connection in use. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The good quality
marine lock in plugs are listed as being able to carry 10 amps at 12
volts (120 watts) there are also some on the market listed as being
able to handle up to 20 amps at 12 volts (240 watts). Not all plugs
carry the same ratings and there are some that do not have a current
rating on the unit or the packaging, of course that is if they are in packaging.
In this case the best course of action is to undo the end cap and
check inside the plug for a fuse, then use this fuse size as the
rating of the plug. You may find the cheaper brands of plug are only
good for as little as two (2) amps. A far cry from the ten to twenty
amps that the better quality plugs are capable of. Don’t be
tempted to up the size of the fuse, I have on a couple of occasions,
and found that the plugs fail while in use, some times spectacularly
in a puff of smoke.</span></div>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Some equipment I
have seen capable of drawing 15 amps has been fitted with cigarette
lighter plugs, and as long as the socket is wired correctly to carry
15 Amps continuous there should not be a problem. Take a little time
and do the detective work to find out if the plugs you have are safe
for the purpose you intend them for. Equipment that comes with a
cigarette lighter plug fitted should be OK to use as supplied, if a
fuse is fitted don't replace it with a larger fuse. Prior to use make
sure both the socket and plug are clean and the spring loaded tip has
plenty of resistance when pushed back into the case. I have regularly
seen the side contacts of the plug can get a rust build up on the
contacts and will need to be cleaned before use.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOD5VhFuf7WkTH8VVndkmfnh6P6gzsivLMhCGO1PczOCbtNJUCuBXHZt7oiUdjdy8MvQFO-slBCVg1Rk8LPYz2f4I1VdBeyGoEVD57TEDTGuQQBSnK11LZDCk6ot-iyR4-kN6XG_u9PGvU-wwcql_dMmqOBgE-gTScFdNmtiBCDBdkUtZOcyn3W_A/s4032/20230321_155341.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOD5VhFuf7WkTH8VVndkmfnh6P6gzsivLMhCGO1PczOCbtNJUCuBXHZt7oiUdjdy8MvQFO-slBCVg1Rk8LPYz2f4I1VdBeyGoEVD57TEDTGuQQBSnK11LZDCk6ot-iyR4-kN6XG_u9PGvU-wwcql_dMmqOBgE-gTScFdNmtiBCDBdkUtZOcyn3W_A/w380-h285/20230321_155341.jpg" width="380" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This plug is cheap @ $2.95 however you get what you pay for and it did give problems before being replaced.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsrVhpvbkx9x0sAYrnObt1VaFAl0Q6juhlSLZrVflOj2XQfMRbUzTehLLd5XFWjMgt9OQJBaEGbaZVUpz4ZraR55D4LLTO83qUaccMDDOX-gcehXE9xs54K9EGrMRRx9SXVreUwZmbfZPBuxb-EUytIh2GwkYoWU4_5YIYnwkWOYdRlPlgMLScAmn/s4032/20230321_155641.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsrVhpvbkx9x0sAYrnObt1VaFAl0Q6juhlSLZrVflOj2XQfMRbUzTehLLd5XFWjMgt9OQJBaEGbaZVUpz4ZraR55D4LLTO83qUaccMDDOX-gcehXE9xs54K9EGrMRRx9SXVreUwZmbfZPBuxb-EUytIh2GwkYoWU4_5YIYnwkWOYdRlPlgMLScAmn/w396-h297/20230321_155641.jpg" width="396" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While its hard to see the side contacts of this plug are starting to rust and will require cleaning, better still would be to replace the plug with a plug made from better more conductive material. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The better quality
plugs and sockets made for marine use have a lock in place mechanism,
simply line up the contacts on the side of the plug with the arrows
on the socket and the plug will stay put until it is removed. Some
plugs can take a bit of force to remove which is very good sign as
the tension is kept on the contacts while in use.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cigarette Lighter
Sockets</span></b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></b></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltRj90H65uzNff7ZCaRYpasnkmnJebqi-fKtbT29JEWUBuNBTiL3OvSOfgP8BeX_mF-1iiV6hhzr5LSHiW7ZWdj_ynyPIsPvajH40xpsZm_xx8z84rV3Eag6rKxwATxg72OXFJVeC6XA7tZlaLixfeHoK8TlIlG-bUf4bSqDXVOqlppURNhgDJXb5/s4032/20230321_155219.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltRj90H65uzNff7ZCaRYpasnkmnJebqi-fKtbT29JEWUBuNBTiL3OvSOfgP8BeX_mF-1iiV6hhzr5LSHiW7ZWdj_ynyPIsPvajH40xpsZm_xx8z84rV3Eag6rKxwATxg72OXFJVeC6XA7tZlaLixfeHoK8TlIlG-bUf4bSqDXVOqlppURNhgDJXb5/s320/20230321_155219.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Marine grade cigarette lighter socket, lock points shown on the body of the case. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The good quality
marine grade sockets are rated for 15 amps at 12 volts (180 watts) to
20 amps at 12 volts (240 watts), and usually come with a cap to keep
out the moisture when not in use. These sockets are usually made from
better spec materials and the metal components resist corrosion.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8aQfoFKk8qthE-BIvBxW6gvUH2acrlfDwCiipH08FbEKpmb1URDX8xI5ecG6FYAcKReH-0E6LdPKC8uX7pcwftW04qIxmzySjXTNPaLQ0_5QZxV8jYvD-dhUqxabWVT3ZYh_v-EQ-NBf6idUnTLLtKDYs4D-ZV_XS1iohUpvM6s_rs-0bF43Jqco5/s4032/20230321_155920.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8aQfoFKk8qthE-BIvBxW6gvUH2acrlfDwCiipH08FbEKpmb1URDX8xI5ecG6FYAcKReH-0E6LdPKC8uX7pcwftW04qIxmzySjXTNPaLQ0_5QZxV8jYvD-dhUqxabWVT3ZYh_v-EQ-NBf6idUnTLLtKDYs4D-ZV_XS1iohUpvM6s_rs-0bF43Jqco5/s320/20230321_155920.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Old style cigarette lighter socket with a metal case and ceramic centre pin, this socket has been in use for over 14 years and works fine. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Also on the market
are sockets with an all metal body and a ceramic disk holding the
centre contact, these were the norm when used to heat the cigarette
lighter coil. I will say the body will not melt, and I have had one
in use regularly on my vessel for over 14 years and haven't had a
problem. These units do not have a lock in function so care has to be
taken when selecting plugs to fit. Check the Amp (current) rating
before purchasing as now days they vary any where from 5 – 10 Amps
at 12 Volts.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Then there are the
standard plastic sockets rated for 10-15 Amps at 12 volts. I think
for safety you should make sure they are from a reputable
supplier/manufacturer. I have seen unbranded sockets that in my
opinion wont have a hope of being able to run fully loaded, the new
contacts while looking nice and shiny brass start to bubble rust once
in the humid marine environment.
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The other variable
here is that we can all be sucked in by the numbers printed on the
packaging or sales brochure. What’s irritating is the losses caused
by either bad advice or product advertising can be significant.
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">Power Accessories</span></b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">What else to look
for when using plug in power cables. Most, if not all off the shelf
splitters (one plug connected to 2-4 sockets) or extension cables are
really made to a price and the size of the wires used are not usually
big enough for the advertised voltage/current.
</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasJhZP-Ba3hSN8MGsSF51XDwd5j_SQqho2_4cV5Zo8hHaTUTYxnvMVw4seepfUbapf_QBJbiZPWqDIsLhPTl84bA4HydL27fzPja7cTH6FAKwqtNU1F-f3aCLBf--Jpoq5z_GMnz7DT9BDQknwfPdw56obN0KrQXSM8jJJPMOCN6uOe-oUHWo_uUt/s200/extension%20lead.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="200" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjasJhZP-Ba3hSN8MGsSF51XDwd5j_SQqho2_4cV5Zo8hHaTUTYxnvMVw4seepfUbapf_QBJbiZPWqDIsLhPTl84bA4HydL27fzPja7cTH6FAKwqtNU1F-f3aCLBf--Jpoq5z_GMnz7DT9BDQknwfPdw56obN0KrQXSM8jJJPMOCN6uOe-oUHWo_uUt/w271-h271/extension%20lead.webp" width="271" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There are similar looking extension cables for sale, most are advertised with specifications way beyond what they can actually achieve. Before purchase investigation into the suitability will need to be done before use. We got stung a couple of times before, and now make our own. The above unit is good to 3 amps at 12 Volts, I have seen similar units advertised at 10 Amps at 12 Volts, so buyers need to be aware. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Watch out for the
voltage drop when in use, I have had experience of these when running
at the advertised rated 10 amps, the voltage drop is excessive. For
example a spot light will be dim however a motor
(bilge/water/air/fuel pump) is very likely to overheat all the while
running slower, fridges will not run or become damaged, some
electronics will stop working temporally or suffer permanent damage.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I have also noticed
plugs advertised as capable of carrying 20 Amps which is all well and
good, as long as the socket is also rated and wired to carry the
current properly. However if it was me I would not use a cigarette lighter
plug & socket at this high current level, I recommend and would
use Anderson plugs.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjfOj9aceRVqrJEZ-bczcxCAD55cygAnThIepZEbAcO9m-zHhO_kFa6CmjfM4j3HDf82sueLn86FlpvOzAyTdG-SCTMoTtrMTdx2KuCdX2T3LWHdJa4wzeSGpGgYGaPtyE4yEet51t_1pYPbd7nDfkJIF05xJEM74PnkJrmyFYSVlV4q682BX8oqc/s300/PT4477-panel-mount-high-current-50a-connector-and-cigarette-lighter-socketImageMain-300.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjfOj9aceRVqrJEZ-bczcxCAD55cygAnThIepZEbAcO9m-zHhO_kFa6CmjfM4j3HDf82sueLn86FlpvOzAyTdG-SCTMoTtrMTdx2KuCdX2T3LWHdJa4wzeSGpGgYGaPtyE4yEet51t_1pYPbd7nDfkJIF05xJEM74PnkJrmyFYSVlV4q682BX8oqc/s1600/PT4477-panel-mount-high-current-50a-connector-and-cigarette-lighter-socketImageMain-300.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A cigarette lighter and anderson plug mounted into an easily installed housing, great for dash mounts and the Anderson plug can handle up to 50 Amps if wired correctly. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">What we have
experienced.</span></b><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Excessive voltage
drop in an extension cable. We inherited a 3 metre extension cable
with the boat and it never did work at the amp and voltage specs
advertised on the box. We unsuccessfully tried using it for running
a fuel transfer pump, during trouble shooting we found low voltage of
7 volts at the socket end of the cable with the pump on. After a
little detective work we found the wire size in the extension was 18
AWG (0.83mm2) or close to it. There is no way we could ever get the
advertised rated 8 amps at 12 volts from this cable, it would be
impossible. To be able get close to the specs on the box the cable
size would need to be at least 12 AWG (2.8mm2) which is a
significantly larger wire size. So how do we get around this, we
make our own cables now, or have installed sockets closer to where we
work. We cannot trust the manufactured extension cables to perform
to the numbers written on the box.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have seen so many
advertisements of cables that can not possibly work at the listed
current and voltage. After a little more detective work we have found
that while the advert states 8, 10 or 15 amps, they get around that
by stating the wire "amp rating", and the "amp rating" explanation is far beyond the
scope of this post. Its all in the wording, obviously the marketing
department had their thinking caps on and come up with this one. Why
you ask? copper costs money and if they used a wire size capable of
performing to the advertised specs they would either need to put up
the price or lower the profit margin. Sadly we the unsuspecting consumer get sold a piece of equipment that will not perform.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><b>Melting cigarette
lighter plugs</b>. We have had our share of problems with these until we
worked out why. I was under the assumption these plugs were a
universal 10 amps, or heavy duty model at 15 amps and now there are 20 amp units on sale, truth is stranger
than fiction and as it turns out these plugs are rated at any thing
from 1 up to 20 amps. Yep 1-20 amps and while they look the same
outside its the quality of the components inside where the additional
cost is. Prior to purchase always look for a fuse in the plug, this
fuse size is a give way on the plug amp rating. This is where I
caused myself grief, I would change the fuse to a larger one to run
heaver equipment and caused the plug to overheat and sometimes
distort badly. How & Why? Resistance in an electrical circuit causes heat,
and the lower grade material in the cheaper units caused resistance
and the flow on effect is heat. The more current (amps) drawn through
the resistance the hotter it it will get, and most times the hotter
things get the more resistance is created so its a spiral into
failure, some times in a puff of smoke. For trouble free use of
equipment get top branded plugs and sockets, yes I know the plugs for
$2.95 look attractive when compared to the $15.00 plugs. The real
question you need to ask your self is what is the failure of either
the plug or the connected equipment going to cost you in the long
run.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5omeTd0aFwTVSV9QwbeA-bhxPQ3mhpjt2hIpv6tKq6Qv-jEpkdQaE_5p8qQxOFPGP1p_pMfJlMdWAIjs4B-F9TkNack5LPNSCuOyVjzVa1eIu8I6_CjUxf_UFF_n2MSruNgySPHTRqANeTRaT-YU-8zAvhHryA6ieDLveoNNufd0TVzA-08QTDIZa/s1482/Fuses%20Soldered%20end%20cap%20on%20the%20left%20-%20Copy.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1482" data-original-width="1475" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5omeTd0aFwTVSV9QwbeA-bhxPQ3mhpjt2hIpv6tKq6Qv-jEpkdQaE_5p8qQxOFPGP1p_pMfJlMdWAIjs4B-F9TkNack5LPNSCuOyVjzVa1eIu8I6_CjUxf_UFF_n2MSruNgySPHTRqANeTRaT-YU-8zAvhHryA6ieDLveoNNufd0TVzA-08QTDIZa/s320/Fuses%20Soldered%20end%20cap%20on%20the%20left%20-%20Copy.JPG" width="318" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While these fuse ends look ok the fuse on the left has solder on the ends holding on the fuse wire, for whatever reason this causes enough resistance creating high temperatures at higher current. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I mentioned fuses in
the plugs, and this is also important, the fuse used has to be good
quality. We had a batch of fuses with soldered ends and these caused
all manner of problems due to poor contact inside the plugs. The same can happen with
fuse holders either in the line of an extension cable or power
supplied to the socket, the slightest resistance in the fuse holders
contact with the fuse, can at higher currents cause the fuse/fuse
holder to melt with out the fuse actually blowing. On these installs
where the socket will be subjected to current over 10 amps we use a
bolt in fuse, the holders don't cost much more than a standard style
and have far better method of securing the wires or fuse.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3ahJMY0hF6cth4MSaVfkmoSRbqdb4sZcNdwLe5aymXGdZR_ppxnCFIcR3XYWr4qsSq0x6KlDQbBFmmYv_OCybi8pS7-YgCIMGErVTf3WH8GEubyf6DYmarMZvZ8XSqAvD8w1ROvNwKbDRxqU508szsbwDxhLTLWQSoDNHyGFdVmLSon6ADVG1Cxh/s3880/Fuses%20and%20%20Fuse%20Holder%20starting%20to%20melt%20due%20to%20high%20current%20and%20poor%20contact.%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3392" data-original-width="3880" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3ahJMY0hF6cth4MSaVfkmoSRbqdb4sZcNdwLe5aymXGdZR_ppxnCFIcR3XYWr4qsSq0x6KlDQbBFmmYv_OCybi8pS7-YgCIMGErVTf3WH8GEubyf6DYmarMZvZ8XSqAvD8w1ROvNwKbDRxqU508szsbwDxhLTLWQSoDNHyGFdVmLSon6ADVG1Cxh/w400-h350/Fuses%20and%20%20Fuse%20Holder%20starting%20to%20melt%20due%20to%20high%20current%20and%20poor%20contact.%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fuses hot enough to melt the housing and fuse holder, all with out blowing the fuses, most likely cause was a resistance and at high load created enough heat to melt the fuse and holder..</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8m1vAHIr6F6JkNCX7q3ax5DujAZUzadakJ44FQdit5_KUJMlSc5d_zsPvdE3YBhIO27kgfyzR6CNKlCRmaD7rkFL4lb5k6BBhln9aMccxw6tEOAJZQmNgQvy2ln0FLIT7YSLbWF6002kXciDhjT_cocRrH2itoJWvrQvNNqvPAwDNZzuGISeT5_V/s1854/bolt%20in%20fuse.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1854" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8m1vAHIr6F6JkNCX7q3ax5DujAZUzadakJ44FQdit5_KUJMlSc5d_zsPvdE3YBhIO27kgfyzR6CNKlCRmaD7rkFL4lb5k6BBhln9aMccxw6tEOAJZQmNgQvy2ln0FLIT7YSLbWF6002kXciDhjT_cocRrH2itoJWvrQvNNqvPAwDNZzuGISeT5_V/w413-h236/bolt%20in%20fuse.jpg" width="413" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Bolt in fuses are certainly a better option to ensure better contact and less chance of failure due to bad connections. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">Failures of sockets</span></b><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">With out doubt one
of the biggest problems is sockets wired in with undersized wire for
the length of the run, this will cause large voltage drop for the
connected equipment. I have also seen poor joins or improperly
crimped connectors used on either end of the cable run causing poor
contact. Also when doing an install buy good quality tinned/silver
coated copper terminals or push on connectors, there are some on the
market made from mixed metal and do not conduct as well as copper.
The other flow on effect of these mixed alloy terminals is they can
corrode quickly when in the marine environment.
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As explained earlier
regarding resistance in an electrical circuit causing heat, if the
plugs used in the socket cannot maintain a good connection then there
will be resistance and in effect heating, if enough current is drawn
eventually the connection will heat up and if enough heat is
generated the socket, plug or both can melt and become distorted.
Again better quality sockets are built from better more electrically
conductive material the flow on effect is a socket less prone to
failure from contact problems. The better quality marine sockets also
come with a built in locking mechanism and when used with the
matching plug help maintain good contact with the plug.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Keep the sockets
clean, we have found the green scourers can do a good job of removing
any surface corrosion on either the socket or the plug contacts. We
don't have to scourer for very long and the contacts come up like
new. A quick blow out with canned air or use the vacuum cleaner to
clean up after the job.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="font-family: verdana;">Summary</span></b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Be aware of what is
for sale if your out looking to buy new equipment, it is truly a mine
field. The sockets have to be wired correctly in your vessel. If your doing the job yourself get an idea of the wire length required before you do the size calculation to get the right current carrying capability. Remember while the socket may only be a metre from the power distribution bus bar you may require double or triple that length to do the job correctly by keeping the wire in the cable run or trays. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While the better quality plugs and sockets are more expensive, the convenience of reliable connections is well worth the initial out lay. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Here is a simple wire size calculator, and it can be compared as a
secondary check with a chart I have used for several years. Keep in
mind the calculator uses one way distance the chart uses wire length
in the circuit which is double the one way distance.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/dc-wire-size">https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/dc-wire-size</a></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg">DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
(3189×1574) (bluesea.com)</a>
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-40126822556199054812023-04-23T09:38:00.006+10:002023-04-24T11:03:06.409+10:00 OpenCPN - QLD Marine Park Zone Overlay<p><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b>Welcome to sunny Queensland, information for traversing the Marine Park Zones. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;">Where to get official zone maps as well as get and use an overlay display of the Queensland Coast marine park
zones, using the OCPN-Draw Plugin in OpenCPN. </span></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">This
is a handy tool and well worthwhile knowing about before you travel
the Queensland coast.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"></span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6K6QYcWn4XmPdKIVufC1Yfk8fYospSNQBYqyz-03KnAcQt7UHgSr37v3HSFi7E19y512oqiuHysLYGPdMVZRjXvazEs_eNYuUJxRu6_aZdkvZGSgE5Lb8zj47R063rn50CcgYRz_stifO48kBZ5PPqGQweZnTJ6cybC57LabbELy2c2Hb65SWmTYS/s1365/Overview%20of%20north%20moreton%20bay.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="1365" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6K6QYcWn4XmPdKIVufC1Yfk8fYospSNQBYqyz-03KnAcQt7UHgSr37v3HSFi7E19y512oqiuHysLYGPdMVZRjXvazEs_eNYuUJxRu6_aZdkvZGSgE5Lb8zj47R063rn50CcgYRz_stifO48kBZ5PPqGQweZnTJ6cybC57LabbELy2c2Hb65SWmTYS/w699-h369/Overview%20of%20north%20moreton%20bay.png" width="699" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Marine park Zones displayed on the OpenCPN chart for the north end of Moreton Bay</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_EZdwSORPZFhxqFfFKi9dg2-MiUIhweGLhCe6mzitEm9jG2sNttlhsU50GoUx8sqTmft-u8UUuNHLXiP6o6j7jMsj-Ak8wcrH0Ixpq_QMAfQ0Ktjs3MS-J9G7nQ1PbCm-e-xYOqPEjvEGnTxP55WTrS3ro6rJblMcYO490I7hPhr2kW0fUDid0jJ/s1366/Close%20up%20of%20Flinders%20Reef%20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="723" data-original-width="1366" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_EZdwSORPZFhxqFfFKi9dg2-MiUIhweGLhCe6mzitEm9jG2sNttlhsU50GoUx8sqTmft-u8UUuNHLXiP6o6j7jMsj-Ak8wcrH0Ixpq_QMAfQ0Ktjs3MS-J9G7nQ1PbCm-e-xYOqPEjvEGnTxP55WTrS3ro6rJblMcYO490I7hPhr2kW0fUDid0jJ/w598-h316/Close%20up%20of%20Flinders%20Reef%20.png" width="598" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Close up of Flinders Reef showing detail and the different zone within a zone. You need to know what activities are allowed in each zone so you don't have a run in with the law. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhR3VnVNYKiqFbvQm4cKxA6BpJFcYhH3lFKxKOFfkVWp0sPW_kuMqYDzhfxBIbneI6ekqEEPfQdVP88cWmPROlbxTfII7cHXRSmC8oioYU3YYz5xL97_D7o5H30Zvf38r3-AwYfUwttw_NAMFsaduWhjp67GBgdOpNJeBbFqPqCaLypLX11BuPd7v/s768/flinders%20reef%20close%20up.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="768" height="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhR3VnVNYKiqFbvQm4cKxA6BpJFcYhH3lFKxKOFfkVWp0sPW_kuMqYDzhfxBIbneI6ekqEEPfQdVP88cWmPROlbxTfII7cHXRSmC8oioYU3YYz5xL97_D7o5H30Zvf38r3-AwYfUwttw_NAMFsaduWhjp67GBgdOpNJeBbFqPqCaLypLX11BuPd7v/w611-h554/flinders%20reef%20close%20up.png" width="611" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At another zoom level its easy to see the change from zone to zone.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b>Some Background.</b></span></span></p><span style="font-family: times;">
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">We
have been told that the marine park rangers are now using aircraft to
spot illegal fishing activity along the coast. While this sounds good
that the marine parks are being manage</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">d</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
and looked after, we, yep, that is you and I, can unwittingly fall
foul of the law. If your like us and tow a lure when under way you
may get yourself in trouble with the law. If the lure is in the water
and you cross over one of those green zones and are ca</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">ught</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
doing so, then you </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">can
be</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
fined </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">for
illegal fishing or as they refer to it poaching</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">.
</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">If
its not fishing it can be a simple mistake of going ashore on a
restricted island, or even the kids collecting shells in the wrong
zone. </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: #333333;">The
Australian Hydrographic Charts do not show the relevant marine parks
usage zones along the QLD coast. So how do you know what is allowed
in Marine Park Zones. Well the good news is detailed Charts are
available for download on line.</span></p>
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"> <b>Guides and Zoning Maps of Queensland Coastal Marine Parks</b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Moreton Bay marine Park: </span></p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/moreton-bay/zoning/maps-resources" target="_blank">Moreton Bay Zone Maps and Resources</a></span></div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Great Sandy Strait Marine Park: </span></div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0025/298231/gsmp-zoning-plan-review-summary.pdf" target="_blank">Great Sandy Strait Marine Park Zoning Plan</a></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><a href="https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/great-sandy-marine" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: medium;">Great Sandy Marine Park Home Page</span></a></div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/great-sandy-marine" target="_blank">Interactive Map & Downloads</a></span></span></div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><a href="https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/161507/gsmp-plan-mp2.pdf" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: medium;">Sandy Strait Marine Park Zone Map</span></a></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Great Barrier Reef Marine Parks. </span></span></span></span></p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span> </span></span><a href="https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/" target="_blank"><span><span>https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/</span></span></a><span> </span></span></span></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span><span>Zoning
Maps are available to download as a PDF file, select the are</span></span><span><span>a</span></span></span><span><span><span>
you operating in and download the file, these maps are the latest
versions.</span> </span></span><span><span><a href="https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/access/zoning/zoning-maps" target="_blank">https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/access/zoning/zoning-maps</a></span></span></span></p>
<p style="font-size: large; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span><span><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">A
guide to understanding the zoning rules in the Great Barrier Reef
Marine Park. as a phone app “Eye on the Reef “is available at the
Google play store and Apple app store.
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><a href="https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/access/zoning/eye-on-the-reef-app" target="_blank"><span><span>https://www2.gbrmpa.gov.au/access/zoning/eye-on-the-reef-app</span></span></a><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span><span><span style="letter-spacing: normal;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>The
other option available to OpenCPN users is a project started by a
user called redog666 on Github. He has created files of the zones in
a gpx format and these are available to be overlaid on to the OpenCPN
chart using the plugin OCPN Draw. </span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>To
get it working is straight forward, at first I thought it might
require some playing around but I was up and running in no time.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>OpenCPN
plugin’s are easy to install and get going, with the computer
connected to the internet go to settings, then the plugins page,
scroll down and select OCPN Draw to be installed, then once that is
done, select enable. It should now be operational click OK and close
the window. </span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>Click
on the icon in the Tool Bar and open OCPN Draw manager, </span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>Redog666
has uploaded the GPS coordinates provided by the QLD Government into
the OCPN Draw plugin and created gpx files of each activity zone. The
coloured zones are named following the convention in the Marine Parks
handouts and reference (supplied) needs to be made to the handout to
check what activates are allowed. Each group of zones in a gpx file
zone relate to the latitude of the first waypoint of the zone, ie
GBRMP-11-xxxx are Great Barrier Reef Marine Parks with their most NW
boundary point in an area between Lat 11 and Lat 12. This is not the
same sort of numbering convention of the PDF charts online but once
you start to use the OpenCPN plug in its not hard to work out. I
would not just down load one file into the OCPN Draw layer for
display due to some of the boundaries crossing into areas both sides
of the starting lat. </span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.26cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>Moreton
Bay and the Great Sandy Straits have their own files because they are
not part of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and as a naming
convention example: MBGU-ALL Lt Blue.gpx MBGU will be for the
<b>M</b>oreton <b>B</b>ay <b>G</b>eneral <b>U</b>se Zone, ALL to
denote all general use zones in the bay and Lt Blue for the colour
displayed. </span></span></span>
</p>
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span>MBMP
= Moreton Bay Marine Park (GREEN)</span></span></p><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span>MBCP
= Moreton Bay Conservation Park (YELLOW)</span></p>
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span>MBHP
= Moreton Bay Habitat Protection (BLUE)</span></span></p>
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span>MBGU
= Moreton Bay General Use (Lt BLUE)</span></span></p><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span><b>Activity's Guide</b> </span></span></p><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span><br /></span></span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2oPwvBhRAAtGq_CzEOirdRIMOVm78bi-i39GIvgMNp5AKFKmDh53t0Dqc27zPPEu2YhUJWjO23wUSDOI9WlHgTXlSdvxjLB8e4WTneELn65yuvpkonmhvD6-bpvIhJ3ej1XFRAfb1cM9rGEjnBh0S6eum2glP-3N2i7_09oMSQ-n6Uy0uvpjhjpe/s1838/Activities%20Guide.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1838" data-original-width="1262" height="944" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2oPwvBhRAAtGq_CzEOirdRIMOVm78bi-i39GIvgMNp5AKFKmDh53t0Dqc27zPPEu2YhUJWjO23wUSDOI9WlHgTXlSdvxjLB8e4WTneELn65yuvpkonmhvD6-bpvIhJ3ej1XFRAfb1cM9rGEjnBh0S6eum2glP-3N2i7_09oMSQ-n6Uy0uvpjhjpe/w650-h944/Activities%20Guide.png" width="650" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The QLD Marine Park activity guide to the coloured zones. This guide is available on the zone charts available for download listed earlier.</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span><span>This link is for the plugin page in the OpenCPN manual detailing the
Queensland Coast Zones. </span></span></span></span><a href="https://opencpn.org/wiki/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=opencpn:opencpn_user_manual:plugins:safety:odraw1.6_pi:qld-marine-parks" target="_blank">QLDCoastal Zones [OpenCPN Manuals]</a></p>
<p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span><span>Download
the gpx files from here: </span></span><a href="https://github.com/redog666/qld-coastal-zones" target="_blank">GitHub- redog666/qld-coastal-zones: fishing zones</a></p><p style="font-size: large; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnY1Oa1r5lZzoVsNfQ53rqqFF3B-pQJeEamitrKw86gjtV8u8uhIB4bscnXOVO61xWa5gpICvBFBZuTlAv1IdtXRtwMgFCn7uCMQfWzBdUsT1dLqU2dCi9iygP0Y-H68ceUN4YPvjNw_2tjE0aoiHLs8iClXWWBMGDjo79d3u17t2rGzODciGQTj0/s917/Screenshot%202023-04-22%20170357.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="917" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnY1Oa1r5lZzoVsNfQ53rqqFF3B-pQJeEamitrKw86gjtV8u8uhIB4bscnXOVO61xWa5gpICvBFBZuTlAv1IdtXRtwMgFCn7uCMQfWzBdUsT1dLqU2dCi9iygP0Y-H68ceUN4YPvjNw_2tjE0aoiHLs8iClXWWBMGDjo79d3u17t2rGzODciGQTj0/w656-h402/Screenshot%202023-04-22%20170357.png" width="656" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Download the zip file from Github and unzip into the GPX holding directory you create.</td></tr></tbody></table></span><p></p><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2EiyxuGuTP2-hZW6an46O06G_xnJuBjhyTqtgTXrAe3MiMDq5QKz0oKVyEv9BxPkWbTZetaS63eTBlIXUmXWa4YuKSEIyKHt60QjsbcWQJ2DP12QLOf_HLe1vjksZ2Wpk9hTBFH4mi2g9ZTOUsTNstsmEzp0GlIZgZP_Nq0fkti7PSlfgwbLiQ5-/s885/Latest%20Draw%20Plugin.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="451" data-original-width="885" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2EiyxuGuTP2-hZW6an46O06G_xnJuBjhyTqtgTXrAe3MiMDq5QKz0oKVyEv9BxPkWbTZetaS63eTBlIXUmXWa4YuKSEIyKHt60QjsbcWQJ2DP12QLOf_HLe1vjksZ2Wpk9hTBFH4mi2g9ZTOUsTNstsmEzp0GlIZgZP_Nq0fkti7PSlfgwbLiQ5-/w713-h364/Latest%20Draw%20Plugin.png" width="713" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Go to the Plugin tab of the OpenCPN options and install and enable OCPN Draw.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIb8TbXomU3SRN1ew5oyy2YGtO84kSv889nyl5hnfuNKbF-QwIEflK1CgPdDKYMqLUSQJLCPq__qkQX3PekvHGeFPG7MzJd8W9StSl5yex2kh-VzNd613YeoV9VZ5m5u1vnohCqU8jdPGe9tMWhskfzy7uSmG-lkPkeTTvtYHiJcA3w8HNHfaUgd5t/s662/OCPN%20Draw%20icon%20after%20install.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="662" data-original-width="415" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIb8TbXomU3SRN1ew5oyy2YGtO84kSv889nyl5hnfuNKbF-QwIEflK1CgPdDKYMqLUSQJLCPq__qkQX3PekvHGeFPG7MzJd8W9StSl5yex2kh-VzNd613YeoV9VZ5m5u1vnohCqU8jdPGe9tMWhskfzy7uSmG-lkPkeTTvtYHiJcA3w8HNHfaUgd5t/w247-h394/OCPN%20Draw%20icon%20after%20install.png" width="247" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Open up OCPN Draw </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZrZD8MK9vgQbDQzgMzleosVPq_5A3MWsgHGteu6C3H3dWAvWpa-BDhv82JwAlGEg457MeJHJaqCOINaye2CLn_a4klc-kwhwXYPcOc18HZ1_7nc61LUTV5PeYRcIcLDai4XSVWg7D7U5SOqbY8x3znaVfqqpbhlm5PfT-XD1z867x2N4tQwG-SUI/s1123/New%20Persistant%20Layer%20opens%20up%20a%20window%20to%20find%20and%20select%20the%20GPX%20files%20for%20display.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="1123" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZrZD8MK9vgQbDQzgMzleosVPq_5A3MWsgHGteu6C3H3dWAvWpa-BDhv82JwAlGEg457MeJHJaqCOINaye2CLn_a4klc-kwhwXYPcOc18HZ1_7nc61LUTV5PeYRcIcLDai4XSVWg7D7U5SOqbY8x3znaVfqqpbhlm5PfT-XD1z867x2N4tQwG-SUI/w598-h266/New%20Persistant%20Layer%20opens%20up%20a%20window%20to%20find%20and%20select%20the%20GPX%20files%20for%20display.png" width="598" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">New Persistent Layer opens up a window to find and select the GPX files for display</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Using the new persistent layer button will create the (Layers) directory required C:\ProgramData\opencpn\plugins\ocpn_draw_pi\Layers. Its possible to select all the zone files into the Layers directory and hide from view the files that are not in the area of operation. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZtQxA4whBUumMgmtdWYKl9y2qLB3LFUtVtY9aBzZLVEKPpO3rBB8C9AmOXlx54KGeR0JTSvQfkqAu-sEGI2mj-KP_xY-B4mibjuWZhafeHxaFkeZfOqitf-2I_PtBVZdxE2yXrlClY2nryYUeMz2wrajKupP2mpSwo3xf4ggRWBk_31g0N9pados/s626/Select%20the%20files%20for%20display%20Shift%20click%20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="626" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZtQxA4whBUumMgmtdWYKl9y2qLB3LFUtVtY9aBzZLVEKPpO3rBB8C9AmOXlx54KGeR0JTSvQfkqAu-sEGI2mj-KP_xY-B4mibjuWZhafeHxaFkeZfOqitf-2I_PtBVZdxE2yXrlClY2nryYUeMz2wrajKupP2mpSwo3xf4ggRWBk_31g0N9pados/w586-h433/Select%20the%20files%20for%20display%20Shift%20click%20.png" width="586" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Select the files required for display, I select files both sides of the zone I am operating in due to some zones crossing over into neighbouring zones.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFk6jqXvynzYZNNpWSDTJUbXWYnlg16qmkudmJdtVLKU7n60RQJc2Yl-0dAJOCC92vvMgf9epojyLDf4unhAGWLxkby1W0V0cME7raW0m2VYqi7KSiTkxvH__mGQSeZPtCHfZgM2dFc78e3piESN25DsfL2X2dmxp4-YcNnBKIMRaNNECYGQU902Q/s1029/Display%20all%20layers%20eye%20icon%20clear.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="1029" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFk6jqXvynzYZNNpWSDTJUbXWYnlg16qmkudmJdtVLKU7n60RQJc2Yl-0dAJOCC92vvMgf9epojyLDf4unhAGWLxkby1W0V0cME7raW0m2VYqi7KSiTkxvH__mGQSeZPtCHfZgM2dFc78e3piESN25DsfL2X2dmxp4-YcNnBKIMRaNNECYGQU902Q/w648-h407/Display%20all%20layers%20eye%20icon%20clear.png" width="648" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">The zones displayed, simply select the eye icon to turn of the file from display </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7_4VG7NPGIO5axBIDLGfJr95Ny8CWWJg1linPxMm4vJrUNfWORgmR2xqHU9l7g47K93V6YTfgh3yv0649QFF94anBnbbInHMZyWku_OPzMfxU9-pySakNQf5OS5wTRhrJcw-Krb6KcVU9izK3zq67IJQc2t2q4oYISEj6jpEzcIzmSxkbcE88DGY/s1126/Turn%20off%20the%20displays%20by%20selecting%20the%20eye%20icon.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1126" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7_4VG7NPGIO5axBIDLGfJr95Ny8CWWJg1linPxMm4vJrUNfWORgmR2xqHU9l7g47K93V6YTfgh3yv0649QFF94anBnbbInHMZyWku_OPzMfxU9-pySakNQf5OS5wTRhrJcw-Krb6KcVU9izK3zq67IJQc2t2q4oYISEj6jpEzcIzmSxkbcE88DGY/w597-h362/Turn%20off%20the%20displays%20by%20selecting%20the%20eye%20icon.png" width="597" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Same location as above the files displayed have been turned off by selecting the eye icon. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_c-8QsZhofqX6cmg9gkRkXNL_SgXx0WgAVh6SBNXHF3CRgl6-juyiH-fX-cHBa4OaawSe5txrX-5NhKVYrKBaAGjeZnBRo67uLaKVsugNfypSffVCMfKydMLq41IwGxHqkYmhuJ8BucGTvyRpOrVYIPpAbKr7wDwdsoBwNca7eqWQ_dDs56GCej5E/s536/GPX%20files%20in%20the%20Layers%20Directory%20after%20Persistant%20layer%20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="391" data-original-width="536" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_c-8QsZhofqX6cmg9gkRkXNL_SgXx0WgAVh6SBNXHF3CRgl6-juyiH-fX-cHBa4OaawSe5txrX-5NhKVYrKBaAGjeZnBRo67uLaKVsugNfypSffVCMfKydMLq41IwGxHqkYmhuJ8BucGTvyRpOrVYIPpAbKr7wDwdsoBwNca7eqWQ_dDs56GCej5E/w540-h393/GPX%20files%20in%20the%20Layers%20Directory%20after%20Persistant%20layer%20.png" width="540" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Layers tab of the OCPN Draw program.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">When selecting the files for the new persistent layer, if it's the first time the OCPN Draw plugin is used the Layers directory will be created and those files will be copied there. When shutting down OpenCPN the files will still be available after a restart. By keeping the GPX files in another directory separate from the layers directory allows a back up. If you want to clear the layers, deleting the files from the directory will only clear the copies from the layers directory not the originals. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">If creating a temporary layer the files will be removed when OpenCPN is shutdown, and these files will not be available on restart and will need to be selected again.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-91033005856849378642023-03-19T14:00:00.010+10:002023-03-20T08:53:43.074+10:00Do you want to run an Inverter<p> The Inverter is an electronic device that converts a DC voltage to AC voltage. Cruisers usually want to convert ships 12 volts DC battery power to 110 or 230 volts AC. </p><p> We love having an inverter on board and it gets used on a daily basis, we do use the inverter to power the washing machine, kitchen and workshop tools and it really makes our life on board easier . </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv954l9Kel6TYBCV7JgnwIn-60wchrIq6vDKyJ5B5eQddZg37-8Ag6298El8q6nz73iwiRwH9xye0whQmULEUyxYIOXQt85fnZ_G9zRyYwiG4JhJlt1pHJSfDUKcQteZB6J6GKu7rEIiC6tWMa6T7U0q_4V_TDUlYXm8avEvUKhlN89Jbgqwom_bHf/s5472/DSC00118.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv954l9Kel6TYBCV7JgnwIn-60wchrIq6vDKyJ5B5eQddZg37-8Ag6298El8q6nz73iwiRwH9xye0whQmULEUyxYIOXQt85fnZ_G9zRyYwiG4JhJlt1pHJSfDUKcQteZB6J6GKu7rEIiC6tWMa6T7U0q_4V_TDUlYXm8avEvUKhlN89Jbgqwom_bHf/w314-h472/DSC00118.JPG" width="314" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bare bones Pure Sine Wave inverter fitted in Matilda. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="text-align: center;">This inverter is a combi unit and includes a built in battery charger for when we are connected to the shore power at the dock. By bare bones I mean it does what its meant to do very well, it outputs a single phase pure Sine Wave and charges the batteries when connected to the dock power. It doesn't have a lot of the bells and whistles that most cruisers dont really need. While they may be necessary for complex installations, for most of us they are unused and are just an added expense and that money could have been used elsewhere. </span></p><p>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><b>Before we get started basic abbreviations and power rating.</b></p><p><b>A well used electrical calculation</b>: Watts = Voltage multiplied by the current in Amps; W = V x A</p><p><b>AC</b> is an abbreviation for alternating current: an electric current that reverses its direction many times a second at regular intervals, in Australia its 50 times per second and in the US its 60. also known as Hertz or Hz. Output is from a portable generator, inverter or mains (the big generator at the power station) </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmES8RmgGTSiSGGS2a2TjfoA1Fu-Rskuo6bSTSAJ-g30UbXbv4We91dUOja_NAxjErajr23rJOHdGbtHx8ySxZwSZ7ziMHjUyezIIIv8RITgvpq1GtjScbEFZGR1j1ZYn55nAtfhRkvDEVxWIhH1vK3nYcy5bwOXnwVPlomTfEvuBPHBs7p_sVpOvr/s419/Mains%20power.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="419" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmES8RmgGTSiSGGS2a2TjfoA1Fu-Rskuo6bSTSAJ-g30UbXbv4We91dUOja_NAxjErajr23rJOHdGbtHx8ySxZwSZ7ziMHjUyezIIIv8RITgvpq1GtjScbEFZGR1j1ZYn55nAtfhRkvDEVxWIhH1vK3nYcy5bwOXnwVPlomTfEvuBPHBs7p_sVpOvr/s320/Mains%20power.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The AC wave form, output from a Sine Wave Inverter or generator. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>DC</b> is an abbreviation for direct current: an electric current flowing in one direction only. Output is from solar cells, batteries. </p><p><b>RCD Safety switch</b>: An RCD switch will operate when there is an imbalance in the current flow in the active and neutral conductors. Once this imbalance reaches the set threshold, usually 30mA, it opens the circuit, cutting the power output. A lot of people believe that an inverter is safe and will cause no harm because it runs off batteries. However this is a false sense of security, the power from even the smallest inverter can kill as quickly as a mains power point. So it is certainly recommended a RCD safety switch be fitted. <a href="https://www.safework.nsw.gov.au/hazards-a-z/electrical-and-power/residual-current-devices#:~:text=RCDs%20are%20electrical%20safety%20devices,personal%20protection%20from%20electric%20shock." target="_blank">For a discussion on safety switches</a></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCcfuHryzB0g5usvaHUNUuVqSmnHqGyeGHrHbR4-1aH_dpb9eOWAccTnRk0DFudXhvIoYixB5VXuvVLRvcoqJcZ3vR7kEnOXD_ctZ8k3kyloLUP4Wwqy_mVeaus6OnTXS4BcwnS1N_2dbmL_e5PdkGyo3XQag9D_z5yexbRZrz3447PXvRNtf7bfnb/s1500/RCD.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCcfuHryzB0g5usvaHUNUuVqSmnHqGyeGHrHbR4-1aH_dpb9eOWAccTnRk0DFudXhvIoYixB5VXuvVLRvcoqJcZ3vR7kEnOXD_ctZ8k3kyloLUP4Wwqy_mVeaus6OnTXS4BcwnS1N_2dbmL_e5PdkGyo3XQag9D_z5yexbRZrz3447PXvRNtf7bfnb/s320/RCD.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RCD Safety switch to reduce the chance of being electrocuted from the output of an Inverter<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- <p><b>Why have an Inverter when you go cruising?</b></p><p>In Australia we all have 230 volts AC as the primary mains voltage source at home, we already have many appliances that run off 230 volts, it may be the high powered microwave oven or the very low power charger for a laptop, tablet or camera. An Inverter allows you to use the appliances you already have when you are away from the shore power. The disclaimer here is that the inverter type and size has to be matched to the appliances you want to use.</p><p><b>Benefits of using an Inverter</b></p><p>Instant power with the flick of a switch, no turning on the gen set, or switching over the source of the power. The main reason for most people is that there is a wide variety of appliances. Using an Inverter can save you the cost of replacing the appliances you already have at home with 12 volt equivalents. In some cases 12 volt appliances are more expensive due to lower sales, or possibly they are not available for every application.</p><p><b>Why a lot of Cruisers buy an Inverter</b></p><p>A lot of cruisers like to take the convenience of household appliances out on to the water with them. There are so many appliances used in the kitchen or workshop that make quick work of tedious jobs. I use a powerful mixer on a daily basis to knead bread dough so we can have a fresh loaf of bread while we sail offshore miles from land. Using the appliance we reduce the kneading time from 20 min to just 5, not that we don't like the upper body workout, we like using that time to do other jobs. There is just about an appliance or power tool to help with most jobs, and we have met people who use some appliances we never thought of taking on board, it's only limited by imagination, storage and of course battery bank endurance.</p><p>During our travels we have met with dozens of cruisers who had planned fitment of their inverter during preparations before going cruising. The cruisers then executed the install and had the 12 volt side of the inverter connected with the right gauge wire, fuses and safety grounds. They can also have wired in power points outlets to make the inverter use convenient. By having the inverter properly installed they were able to install and configure a RCD safety switch and circuit breakers to protect the people and appliances. <a href="https://enerdrive.com.au/product/rcd-gpo-inverter-kit/" target="_blank">Add on kit for an RCD info here</a></p><p>There is also another good reason a lot of people buy an inverter, they do not know there are 12 volt alternatives for the most commonly used items. So what are these commonly used items? most of the time its battery chargers (phones laptops, cameras) and TV’s, and this is why so many people buy an inverter, they head off to the marine/camping/electronics/tech shop to get something to charge their laptop, phone or even the head torch, and really the list is almost endless these days. The sales person quickly takes the customer to the inverter section and gets a quick sale. The customer goes home not realising there are other products out there that can charge and run their small appliances and in nearly all cases are a lot safer and much more efficient at doing it than an inverter. But more on that in another post.</p><p>Being on a yacht we want products that make use of stored electricity in the most economical and safe way. Unfortunately for just charging laptops, phones and these types of appliance, a small inverter isn't always the best and or safest option. This is why we feel its a great idea to have a balance of electronics to do the jobs on board. This way should the inverter fail (happens from time to time) you can carry on with minimal disruption. </p><p>Please read on, for other uses an inverter can come into its own, if set up correctly.</p><p><b>Operation</b></p><p>A great reason for using an Inverter is, being much quieter than using a generator to produce the AC power, and when your running off batteries, there are no concerns about fumes or heat from the exhaust, and no flammable fuel to handle. If the generator isn't built in and running on the ships fuel, most of the small portable generators popular with cruisers run on petrol. This adds the complexity of firstly safely storing the generator and secondly the fuel to run it. The storage of petrol does have its complexities on a vessel designed and fitted out as a diesel fuel craft.</p><p><b>Versatile</b></p><p>An Inverter can be used whilst the vessel is running, and therefore not draining the house battery. Unless your a sailboat and having a good day out in a nice breeze. When motoring this has practical applications; ie arrive at the anchorage with fully charged batteries, camera batteries, laptop, and so on and so forth. </p><p>For safety an Inverter must never be switched on when you go to start the engine unless you have a totally isolated motor start battery. If you don’t the surge of current required to start a boat motor can drop the voltage down below 10V DC. After the motor is running and the alternator kicks in, it will surge back up to 12 V DC, the combination of surges can damage the inverter, the appliance running on the inverter at the time or of course both.</p><p><b>Interpreting the numbers written on the inverter</b></p><p>An Inverter changes the voltage and current, the power it puts out is always less than the input power, due to inverter efficiency being less than 100%. Most, but not all inverters list the operating power in watts, a big inverter may output 2500 watts so if it really is outputting 2500 watts at 230 volts that will be 10.86 Amps output, just over the maximum of a standard power outlet in Australia. This large inverter is capable of running most appliances easily. However keep in mind most of the numbers on the case i.e. 2500, the inverter will not really output 2500 watts. One that I know of will output 2300 W and another that has 3000 on the case outputs 2200W, so the reality is that you need to read the spec sheet to see the real out put value.</p><p>On the other end of the inverter scale is small inverters with an output of, for example 300 watts, this will be 230 V at 1.3 amps, and would be enough to run most laptop chargers. </p><p>An inverter is usually between 80% and 90% efficient. The 10 – 20 % of power that is lost as electrical energy escapes as heat energy in the Inverter. While this doesn't sound too bad if you crunch some numbers when operating at higher power it can be a significant current (in Amps) drawn from the batteries that is wasted energy. </p><p>So as an example of power loss, if an inverter is drawing 100 Amps and is 80% efficient then 20 amps will be wasted power and converted into heat. </p><p><b>Electrical Power</b></p><p>Electrical power is usually measured in Watts (1000 W = 1 kilowatts, 1 kW). So to keep it simple an inverter that outputs 240 volts at 10 Amps is 2400 Watts (240V x 10A =2400W)</p><p>Some Inverters output are rated in VA (Volt-Amps) rather than Watts and for many appliances this will equate to the number of Watts with a power factor of blah blah blah, well beyond our ability to calculate the actual value. The simple truth of the matter is VA means nothing. If you want to know how much power your inverter is going to give you then ask for the rating in watts at 40 deg C, all the other ratings should be kept for the fairy tale books where they belong. Some brands of inverters have a lower value in the model name but, in fact, are the more powerful of the bunch when apples are compared with apples (watts with watts). So shop around for a unit where you get what you think you should be getting, and it does what it says on the box it does. Do the comparison in Watts at 40 deg C apples with apples, (watts compared with watts). I do know some manufactures use lower temp rating to give better figures, however unless your operating your vessel in the lab then the 25 deg C isn't really achievable. Its all in the advertised wording. </p><p><b>Peak and Continuous</b></p><p>Two numbers are used to describe the output of an Inverter, Peak and Continuous.</p><p>Peak (or surge) describes the output deliverable for several seconds the Inverter components won't blow up at that amount of load, but they will heat up really quickly. Continuous ratings are usually limited by the heat that needs to be removed when running continuously. Ideally you would find out the Peak and the instantaneous ratings of your appliances and check that they were less than the Inverter output, but you can't rely on this because most appliances don't state the start-up or peak power and the length of the peak really needs to be known too. Unfortunately, the only way to be sure, is to test the appliance with the inverter.</p><p>For safety never run the inverter continuously at full power for long times, I have a safety margin in the order of 10% factored in to our calculations for long run times as this allows for the odd surge. </p><p><b>Size of Inverter Needed</b></p><p>The following table is only a rough guide as there is a lot of variation in startup surge load and continuous load for similar appliances between makes and different models.</p><p>Size of Inverter Required Type of Appliance</p><div style="text-align: left;">150 watts - Charger for cameras, laptops, some power tools, DVD player; coffee grinder</div><div style="text-align: left;">250 watts - TV, slow cooker, desktop computer, electric blanket, kitchen mixer, printer</div><div style="text-align: left;">500 watts - Small fridge, freezer, small angle grinder, drill, TV, washing machine (no water heater)</div><div style="text-align: left;">1000 watts - Bread maker, low power microwave (some microwaves are very hungry appliances).</div><div style="text-align: left;">1500 watts - Small air conditioner, vacuum cleaner, small iron, pie maker</div><div style="text-align: left;">2000 watts - Microwave (1200 watts), hair dryer, fan heater, iron, electric kettle, toaster</div><p><b>Types of Inverters the all important “Wave” output</b></p><p>When generating AC from a spinning generator, it’s very easy to generate the sine wave that AC has, but when inverting DC to AC, the easiest wave shape to output is a square wave. Unfortunately a square wave has more energy for longer at frequencies other than the 50Hz or 60Hz (Hertz or Cycles per second), and this can cause problems of overheating in transformers and some motors.</p><p>A sine wave, this is the same power wave output at the mains power point on shore and is the same as output by a rotating AC generator, or a Pure Sine Wave Inverter. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRDPxsqpiKTy7WFbLB-Ig6t-7JiyPLx9_A5ZYPjfnIk6IlgmYkXDVgMwd_A6Swak92dKZCBqyxDkVPN38B9cck1SQyocW6bNobgHrekhNwUE3R_ZipSe8nFRKuDgIGxuh7_K6bIw1gFWEBpw-ZfDP9cUlr_Ysg5kGyaoh5wxdZcE1BbvdxKvxV5qj/s270/sqsims.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="270" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRDPxsqpiKTy7WFbLB-Ig6t-7JiyPLx9_A5ZYPjfnIk6IlgmYkXDVgMwd_A6Swak92dKZCBqyxDkVPN38B9cck1SQyocW6bNobgHrekhNwUE3R_ZipSe8nFRKuDgIGxuh7_K6bIw1gFWEBpw-ZfDP9cUlr_Ysg5kGyaoh5wxdZcE1BbvdxKvxV5qj/w401-h278/sqsims.jpg" width="401" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">A comparison of the three waveforms laid on top each other </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>Today Square Wave Inverters are rare except in the smaller sizes or the real cheap ones and most output either a Modified Square Wave (MSW) or a Sine Wave/Pure Sine Wave. Inverters advertised as Modified Sine Wave are just a marketing department creation and are really only a Modified Square Wave. Nevertheless modified sine wave (MSW) does have a good ring to it when you have been told that the sine wave unit is the best one to get.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeDPEfWulMpTgn_4aFJRJudzMZ1K3SWOska8suB9qs9qVK8p9b886rSKJxJkgkj5QPdGD5Li_A1n1p0--jbqalVdkb9jxIMreCalMJMn2TAVfX2hi74qSgsXbgHmwvf-Cz9sgEuRYsAYhE1j7C1Jr3IYdhdpKQZDNBI7mNMxsixdtlFEKKNYKav6_/s432/Square%20Wave.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="284" data-original-width="432" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeDPEfWulMpTgn_4aFJRJudzMZ1K3SWOska8suB9qs9qVK8p9b886rSKJxJkgkj5QPdGD5Li_A1n1p0--jbqalVdkb9jxIMreCalMJMn2TAVfX2hi74qSgsXbgHmwvf-Cz9sgEuRYsAYhE1j7C1Jr3IYdhdpKQZDNBI7mNMxsixdtlFEKKNYKav6_/w480-h315/Square%20Wave.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p>A square wave display, as can be seen this wave form quickly switches between positive and negative and stays positive or negative at full power for longer, this quick switching can overwhelm some electronic appliances connected to the inverter. </p></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Most small plug in pack chargers and power supplies for cameras, laptops etc these days use switching or switch mode power supplies. So how do we know if this is the case most of the time its in the weight, feel the weight of it and if it feels like it is full of copper wire it more than likely has a conventional transformer in it (most probably needs Sine Wave), if it is much lighter, then it is a switch mode. In theory the switch mode power supplies should work ok on any wave shape input, because they firstly convert the AC to DC, however if the components inside aren’t rated adequately, they may overheat due to the quickly fluctuating square wave shape.<p><b>Modified Square Wave Inverter (MSW) A.K.A Modified Sine Wave Inverter (MSW)</b></p><p>Most appliances will work from these basic Inverters, but unfortunately unless you can look at the internal electronic design of the appliance, you can’t be sure if you will really need a Sine Wave Inverter. The squarish wave shape can also confuse the timing circuits in some appliances that use Frequency as a timing control. If the appliance doesn’t work normally or makes unusual noises, then disconnect it or you may have expensive damage. </p><p>These Inverters also generate more interference to TV's, AM and HF radio reception than Sine wave Inverters and can cause buzzing in CD players and stereos. </p><p><span style="background-color: #fcff01; color: red;">When using an inverter in the marine environment tests need to be carried out to make sure the inverters electrical noise isn't enough to compromise reception on VHF frequencies used for radiotelephone, Digital Select Calling,(DSC) and Automatic Identification System (AIS).</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvjscjgzMz5-UHwpmdgDLfnFzhaA44_kb-Uz4Hau-3JvYjnbZgUuyp9nunn34Q4HmNwcsN8ZDlAuC_LaFabQGrS0ua97rXE72q8YUGICbjbke3bhWNjjqinA8wPw6DCzHKkqAEAFQBMDs47ADDCggJEtVU2u5dS4ohT92-RxequcAK4OKPRQBOdh5/s416/Modified%20Square.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="416" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvjscjgzMz5-UHwpmdgDLfnFzhaA44_kb-Uz4Hau-3JvYjnbZgUuyp9nunn34Q4HmNwcsN8ZDlAuC_LaFabQGrS0ua97rXE72q8YUGICbjbke3bhWNjjqinA8wPw6DCzHKkqAEAFQBMDs47ADDCggJEtVU2u5dS4ohT92-RxequcAK4OKPRQBOdh5/w493-h294/Modified%20Square.jpg" width="493" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Modified Square Wave AKA Modified Sine Wave, as can be seen this wave form is certainly has a lot quicker notchy rise and fall times when compared to the Sine Wave gentle undulation of rise and fall. Also keep in mind the number of additional steps in the modified square wave will influence how the inverter and connected appliances will perform. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Electric motors for an example in washing machines, bread makers, power tools, microwaves, vacuum cleaners may give trouble if used with a modified square wave inverter. </p><p>Can I run computers with my modified square wave inverter? Most laptop/notebook computer AC power adaptors work perfectly well with the Modified Square Wave Inverter. Desktop computers and some laptops/notebooks may be more sensitive so they may not function correctly or cause a humming noise, in which case a pure sine wave inverter is recommended.</p><p>Mac/Apple products are extremely sensitive in the way they use their power, and will require a Pure Sine Wave Inverter to run successfully. We also found a good power filter was also required when using apple products. </p><p>You may have trouble using an AA battery charger with any inverter due to the way the battery chargers draw energy. You will also find that a pure sine wave inverter is a better option for battery chargers due to the fact that there's much less ‘electrical noise’ interference compared to a modified square wave inverter. This ‘electrical noise’ can often wear away at the sensitive components in lower quality battery chargers. The rechargeable batteries, recharging transformer and Inverter may be damaged when trying to recharge devices of 10 volts or higher.</p><p>However, it is always a good idea to double check your appliance's manufacturer's guidelines first. If they can't be charged via a modified sine wave inverter, they will mention something similar to "Charge via Mains power only" or not as we have found out.</p><p><b>Sine Wave Inverter (marketed as Pure Sine Wave or Pure Sine or even the S model)</b></p><p>Sine Wave Inverters are more expensive than Modified Square Wave, some times up to twice as much because more components are needed to electronically generate the Sine Wave. You may consider that If the appliance has a Transformer or an Induction Motor think washing machines and appliances listed earlier, then it most probably needs a Sine Wave Inverter to prevent overheating. Now this is not always true, since some fridges and freezers can work fine off Modified Square Wave inverters, and in fact you shouldn't really notice any difference powering a fridge from a Modified Square Wave inverter, however the notchy waveform can interfere with timing circuits.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEdN2dYjKPR_SWyK9zaTsZvW-AT-ELIGECz9gt-1bG1kFKram1h_uAd_SSCwATeX4vll9dkjpDE_QxkN40jRRbdy4teyfys-Herek4X3wuTm3zHaadC01kdf_wYNV876VD-faPjdzavSFr-JYEn76VF7trkp5gQFPDP19Q0KsY4m6_v1KP3p_dNL7/s561/Sine%20Wave.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="561" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEdN2dYjKPR_SWyK9zaTsZvW-AT-ELIGECz9gt-1bG1kFKram1h_uAd_SSCwATeX4vll9dkjpDE_QxkN40jRRbdy4teyfys-Herek4X3wuTm3zHaadC01kdf_wYNV876VD-faPjdzavSFr-JYEn76VF7trkp5gQFPDP19Q0KsY4m6_v1KP3p_dNL7/w487-h333/Sine%20Wave.jpg" width="487" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The wave form output by the an inverter, same shape as the mains power from shore. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><br /></p><p><b>A list of optional features that are listed as inverter options/specifications.</b></p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Isolated Input-Output</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">If you are using only double-insulated appliances (i.e. they have no third Earth-pin on the Mains plug) with your inverter, then it doesn’t matter to the appliance if the inverter has total electrical isolation between the DC input and AC Output (provided there is no fault to earth). In larger installations with an earthed neutral, or if you have earthed appliances such as Washing Machine. If the Inverter input and output is not isolated, the DC input (battery power 12V) will be up to 115-120 volts AC above the mains earth and this is a very dangerous situation. The out come could be …….. see the next</div><p><b>Electrocution </b>I am lead to believe from years of health and safety briefings it only takes 35 milliAmps (that's 0.035 Amps) in the right conditions to kill a person. The 230 volts from an Inverter can kill you instantly, just like the 230 volt at home, so you need to take precautions. So if you do purchase an inverter that doesn't have total electrical isolation between the DC input and AC output there are several things to do for your safety.</p><div style="text-align: left;">1. Don't use it, return it to the store for a refund, probably the safest but most ignored advice.</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. Make sure the appliance you use doesn’t have an internal connection from earth to neutral.</div><div style="text-align: left;">3. Make sure any appliance is double insulated and does not have a ground pin on the plug.</div><div style="text-align: left;">4. Never make live connections e.g plug in the appliance when the inverter is running.</div><div style="text-align: left;">5. Never disconnect a running appliance with the inverter running.</div><div style="text-align: left;">6. Never work on the batteries or battery connections with the inverter running.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Earth leakage protection</b> or RCD (residual current device)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Bigger Inverters may have these built in, however if not, there are kits available so it can be easily added so operators (consumers i.e. you) are protected by an RCD safety switch and overcurrent circuit breaker. However you cannot get this level of protection unless the inverters input and output are isolated.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRv1tEH2BdmFgr82zS7QT6IQIx0Sm82WZ0GO1tNb2kEirdPkBO33hHeFOcO2fBXGp8_RLG7_DcK6Xr-eKunyAyIjVJiNM6M71smZ5vvtVudzPJvm4pIj6uXWA9_bJSnPumHjk6uyxkxfDjlcl4VSBAOq5TxafIC2Eqinps0GWM0lxlKQfxY1bwfYlF/s4377/RCD%20circuit%20breaker.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4377" data-original-width="1841" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRv1tEH2BdmFgr82zS7QT6IQIx0Sm82WZ0GO1tNb2kEirdPkBO33hHeFOcO2fBXGp8_RLG7_DcK6Xr-eKunyAyIjVJiNM6M71smZ5vvtVudzPJvm4pIj6uXWA9_bJSnPumHjk6uyxkxfDjlcl4VSBAOq5TxafIC2Eqinps0GWM0lxlKQfxY1bwfYlF/w177-h420/RCD%20circuit%20breaker.jpg" width="177" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A RCD safety switch, while we will never know for sure, we believe it saved us from a nasty accident when our washing machine developed a fault, and another time when I accidently dropped the hand mixer into the sink full of water and with out thinking tried to stop it sinking. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://enerdrive.com.au/product/rcd-gpo-inverter-kit/" target="_blank">Example of a kit to add an RCD switch, circuit breakers and power outlets. </a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Earth – Neutral link</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">An automatic earth to neutral link when on inverter mode (no shore power). When disconnected from shore power the unit makes the earth to neutral connection so RCD safety switches can operate.</div><p>This feature is also very important if the inverter is also a battery charger when plugged in to shore power. Most are marketed as combi units to designate an inverter and battery charger combination. When the unit is plugged into mains power the connection from earth to neutral is turned off to make use of the earth to neutral link from the shore power receptacle/power box, this enables the shore RCD safety switch's to work. </p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Soft Start</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">Some loads draw much more current when starting up compared with steady operation e.g. an electric kettle draws a lot more current when first turned on, and motors can also draw very high currents as they come up to operating speed. To reduce these massive current surges, some Inverters bring the output voltage up to full voltage progressively over several seconds. This means you will be able to use an Inverter with a smaller continuous power rating, for a particular load.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Low Voltage Cut Out, Shutdown or Battery Disconnect</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">To prevent damage to your battery, it’s important that the Inverter can switch itself off and remove all current drain, when the battery voltage drops below a set limit. It helps if the cut off voltage can be set by the user, based on the type of battery. Keep in mind that as battery voltage drops, the inverter will draw more current to keep the output power constant. This means that voltage will drop a lot quicker as it reaches the point of full discharge, therefore manual monitoring of battery voltage is not really practical.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Automatic Fan Cooling</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">To keep the internal components operating properly the waste heat in inverters must be controlled, it is imperative to have an internal fan that is automatically switched on at a set temperature when needed.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Meters </b></div><div style="text-align: left;">You can get by without voltage, current and a frequency meter, but with them it’s easier to check if your system and appliances are healthy, or if you’re close to overloading your Inverter. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Autostart</b> (may go by different names)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Some larger Inverters automatically can sense when any appliance is connected or switched on, so that the inverter only draws significant power when it’s actually needed. This is particularly useful in larger vessels, caravans or buildings, because you don’t have to switch the Inverter off and on when using appliances.</div><p>Not all manufacturers include an Auto start feature especially when it comes to Pure Sine Wave inverters, some have a hard wired remote and the more modern units Bluetooth. The major drawback to this auto start feature is the power used while in standby. This can be significant and should be included in the planned daily power usage.</p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Remote Control</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">For inverter installations in vessels, caravans or buildings, it’s handy to control and monitor it remotely, the inverter should be mounted in a cabinet near the batteries to simplify and shorten the wiring necessary to connect the batteries to the inverter. Installing the inverter close to the battery, will allow you to minimise the amount of heavy cabling that is needed in the 12 volt part of the circuit. For operations the remote should also function to alarm fault conditions to the operator.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Inverter/Charger</b> (combi units)</div><div style="text-align: left;">For permanent Installations, the Inverter may be able to charge the batteries when mains or onboard generator is available. These units are sold with a variety of current outputs for the charger, most have the function to connect a remote monitoring panel. Most are advertised as Combi units due to the combination of charger and inverter. They can simplify the connection of shore power due to being an automatic switch between inverter and shore power. No need to clunk over a heavy duty switch to select shore power or inverter. A separate battery charger is no longer necessary.</div><p>Some units also switch the Earth Neutral connections so RCD switches work as intended, very important for crew safety.</p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Overload cut-out</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">The more sophisticated inverters will protect against over temperature, current, voltage or under-voltage, any of these conditions can cause damage to the inverter or the appliances connected to it.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Overheating of Inverter & Wiring</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">It’s important not to install Inverters in confined spaces where the heat can’t escape, either through air movement or conduction. It’s very important not to cover the case of the inverter or obstruct any fan intake for example by mounting it too close to a bulkhead or furniture. Never mount an Inverter in the engine compartment, I know some vessels have very large engine bays and I would make sense to mount them in this space. However a separate well ventilated insulated compartment should be constructed to keep the heat of the engine room from entering the well ventilated cabinet.</div><p>Twelve volt inverters, can draw high current from the battery banks, the general rule is to divide the output power by 10 to understand how much current will need to be supplied. So a 1000 watt inverter will draw 100 amps from the battery and this means using battery cables which can supply this level of current without overheating, while also keeping total voltage-drop in the positive and earth lead to less than 1.5% in each - i.e. less than 0.2 volts.</p><p><b>Inverter Grounding</b></p><p>I am sure most of us know the high voltage of the AC system presents a shock hazard and can certainly be lethal. The DC system is not normally an electrocution hazard but can provide a lot of current, and so is potentially a source of fire. A suitable ground must be installed between the AC and DC system. During my inverter fitment I noticed in the operating instructions the requirement for grounding connections on both the AC side and DC side of the unit’s case. This grounding can prevent shocks from AC, and fire hazard from DC. </p><p>My previous unit only had the smaller AC grounding connection made. A fault in the DC side of the system could provide enough current to overheat the AC grounding conductor (think enough heat to melt insulation and start a fire) without blowing the large DC fuse. Keep in mind the fact that the AC ground is not fused and current will flow through the conductor until it burns out. A high amperage capacity DC grounding path back to the DC system should be made. The conductor size for the ground needs to be of sufficient cross sectional area (bigger is better) to be able to sustain enough current to blow the supply fuse.</p><p>The installation instructions for older inverters (as I had previously) typically do not include this precaution, but most newly designed units do. Though looking into some different manufactures install instructions this connection is not addressed in any depth, most only state or draw the connection in on the installation schematic. Due to the fuse size in my inverter we needed a 70 mm2 ground wire for the DC ground. </p><p><b>Limitations</b></p><p><b>Battery capacity</b></p><p>All the power for the load has to come from the battery, so with high power Inverters or appliances you want to run for a long time, you need large battery banks. If you wanted to run a small Air Conditioner that used 1000 watts on average, it would draw 84 amps, so you need to have a battery bank capable of supplying 2000 amp hours in a day. However we are not done yet, we still need to factor in the losses incurred (the 10-20% mentioned earlier) by running the 12 V DC through the inverter to output 230V AC the figure would be closer to 2400 amp hours draw on the batteries. That means big, heavy and expensive batteries, more importantly a way of recharging them or keeping them charged.</p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><b>Alternatives to an inverter</b></p><p>Use 12 volt appliances</p><p>Many appliances are available as both 12 volt DC or 230 volt AC versions, but the 12 volt version uses less power and is always more expensive. A 12 volt fridge will mostly have thicker insulation and use a more efficient motor/compressor. The designers of mains powered appliances don't factor in the same level of efficiency as they do for 12 volt powered appliances, due to the design spec being for an unlimited mains power source.</p><p>A 12 volt electric kettle will use less power because there are no losses in converting the 12 volts to 240 volts first, how ever a lot of people don't actually realise how much power an electric kettle draws and the install of the unit can be more expensive due to power cable size. Using only 12 volt appliances, may reduce your power needs, so you won’t need a generator or run the motor to recharge your batteries on shorter outings. However you need to ensure you use heavy enough cable to run the appliances connected to them. </p><p><b>Generator</b></p><p>These can easily generate the high power level often needed and they produce a 230 volt output directly. However an inverter is totally silent and much smaller than a generator and doesn't need regular servicing. Keep in mind that most portable generators exhaust can output deadly carbon monoxide gas and in the right conditions this lethal gas can find its way below and slowly kill you while you cook dinner or have a few beers.</p><div><br /></div></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-48846521485351037862023-03-06T14:47:00.003+10:002023-03-14T13:20:08.183+10:00Electrical Work, Wire, Terminals and Tools<p> </p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">For many years my
job had me installing all manner of marine electrics and electronics
in vessels located at different ports around the world. I didn’t
think that purchasing the right size wire, terminals and tools to do
electrical work on my vessel back here in Australia would be very
difficult. However, I thought wrong, as I found out it’s not a
simple task for the average cruiser to get all the right equipment
together. When I was preparing to do upgrades I didn’t realize that
I was about to go on a steep learning curve. I knew what I wanted
from measuring the cable runs and then doing the voltage drop
calculations. I simply thought I could write out a shopping list and
go along to the chandlery or auto/electrical supply store and get
what I wanted. Unfortunately due to the way wire is marketed here in
Australia purchasing wire requires greater care, but more on that
later. The flow on effect of differing gauge can mean it’s easy to
make mistakes and use undersized wire or perhaps crimp on terminals
meant for larger gauge wire.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDJBlguXd0WpHV-i2etAVZgwA2zDij71aKcnlktvDDwmQwD-lbSUY2AmGAMUWb7DR8UTEq1yF_LtGmwL9JNokRKYeEoqSpsCVmaERvmXETkrmzYSpedbBcv1Eps_WIuyPL797T8lv0wEFWEAf3-d0hNZ4z6sO3VXEAmHNAxOal4a5krElQ_x9MrKZ/s5472/DSC05817.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDJBlguXd0WpHV-i2etAVZgwA2zDij71aKcnlktvDDwmQwD-lbSUY2AmGAMUWb7DR8UTEq1yF_LtGmwL9JNokRKYeEoqSpsCVmaERvmXETkrmzYSpedbBcv1Eps_WIuyPL797T8lv0wEFWEAf3-d0hNZ4z6sO3VXEAmHNAxOal4a5krElQ_x9MrKZ/w398-h265/DSC05817.JPG" width="398" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is going to be fun they said, just a little bit of rewiring they said. Its amazing how a little bit of electrical work requires lockers to be emptied to do the job properly, but done properly and the job should last until the equipment is derigged. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">A lot of the easily
accessible information on line or in books is for equipment and
materials manufactured and marketed overseas. The same can be said
for the information supplied by company’s making wire, terminals,
tools and marine components. Perhaps it’s also a sign of the times
where most of our tools are imported and it appears they have been
manufactured for sale in a global market place so at times they are
not an exact fit to products produced here. This does not make it
easy when we head off to the chandlery to purchase bits and pieces to
do an install or repair job. So as I collected information I
assembled this assortment of cross referencing information into a
format that I hope will make it easier for us to get our head around.
I know most sailors will head off to the local chandler when they
need marine wire. With that in mind I have tried to incorporate the
most commonly stocked wire sizes into the calculations for current
handling and crimp terminal sizes.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As the electrics on
the average cruising boat become more advanced the one thing that has
always been a requirement for reliable operation is the need for
electrical installation or repair work to be done neatly and
efficiently. To do this correctly you will need to plan the job, have
the right tools, wire and the correct terminal fittings. It doesn’t
matter whether you’re installing new electronics, electrical gear
or rewiring something already on board, the necessities for safe,
dependable and secure electrical connections are the same, do it
right the first time, using the correct gear.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKMv-NMhev_1KxVY1wiB4xHwHcoqgEsCWL5NyVVq7jY5i5KHL9NbLTS5E-m0PrTYbz0NwPJEZJwFVrN-ooJo9JdZbvq4iKEk1CL2DjGD3bGngaO8FQXfT5pXyKas9qK7c_J_vZIQD1fOmc_Nnr3zr3crx7zCyUukYgr1nE6b5TqGB9gSF0QlTdgRi/s640/How%20an%20electrical%20cabinet%20should%20not%20look%20vomiting%20a%20techno%20colour%20of%20wires.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKMv-NMhev_1KxVY1wiB4xHwHcoqgEsCWL5NyVVq7jY5i5KHL9NbLTS5E-m0PrTYbz0NwPJEZJwFVrN-ooJo9JdZbvq4iKEk1CL2DjGD3bGngaO8FQXfT5pXyKas9qK7c_J_vZIQD1fOmc_Nnr3zr3crx7zCyUukYgr1nE6b5TqGB9gSF0QlTdgRi/w326-h435/How%20an%20electrical%20cabinet%20should%20not%20look%20vomiting%20a%20techno%20colour%20of%20wires.JPG" width="326" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who ever did this job didn't plan very well, the electrical cabinet looks like it vomited a techno colour of wire. If your thinking of buying a boat where the electrical cabinet looks like this, you may find its only the tip of the iceberg and putting it right may be costly, time consuming or both. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD16cDpvHTZqNgaj0TcvzoF5smo3Bpevk9r6TtkoAU6_pH6s2V4QkUjOpVN9z4Bwzbb8cipWU9Br9t69sehAqB7eqxKANHBDzMKC_KB-RjeJU_vsoafQ-qE4Q15iQDarGNVUsClBdnq2GklCAhQkc68PiZzLmJtTi1TcxnMiDJsAsRJZ4P457C9vBf/s640/Not%20neat%20or%20tidy_%20poor%20%20work%20practices%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD16cDpvHTZqNgaj0TcvzoF5smo3Bpevk9r6TtkoAU6_pH6s2V4QkUjOpVN9z4Bwzbb8cipWU9Br9t69sehAqB7eqxKANHBDzMKC_KB-RjeJU_vsoafQ-qE4Q15iQDarGNVUsClBdnq2GklCAhQkc68PiZzLmJtTi1TcxnMiDJsAsRJZ4P457C9vBf/w460-h345/Not%20neat%20or%20tidy_%20poor%20%20work%20practices%201.JPG" width="460" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plan to do the job correctly to start with, make operation easier, and a lot more reliable, nothing worse when turning on a bilge pump to find it not pumping, or getting close to dark and all the nav lights stop working, Sadly the person who did this fantastic job didn't have a plan or a clue. yep fun times can be had by one and all in the aftermath of a job like this. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Planning the job
will save you a lot of hair pulling later. Take time and explore your
options to decide how the new equipment will be installed. The plan
should include where the equipment will be installed, what interfaces
to the equipment and is access to the newly installed equipment
reasonably easy. Where is power to the equipment going to be run from
and how many amps are required? These are a very important
questions that will need answers for proper installation.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Only you can really
decide where the equipment will be finally installed. Then once
that’s done the next important consideration is the length of the
cable run. Not just an as the crow flies type of measurement but take
all the curves and up and around and through cabinets and cable
trunks type of measurement. By taking current draw (Amps) and cable
length into the calculations the correct size wire can be purchased
and run. But don’t buy cable just big enough for the job, you
don’t want the wire to be running at one hundred percent of current
carrying capacity. Go the next size up for redundancy and remember
the bigger the wire the less resistance it will offer a load and the
easier electricity will pass through it, and the cooler it will run.
A win win situation for all.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">I have mentioned
safe electrical installation, keep in mind several vessels are lost
each year due to electrical faults. If doing electrical isn’t your
forte then before applying power it could be worthwhile to have a
friend to look over the job before you throw the switch.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Wire Gauge</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The term wire gauge
refers to the conductor cross sectional area of a wire. Wire gauge
can be used in calculations to determine electrical resistance and
the current handling capability.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">In Australia there
are several means of describing wire gauge for wire used on
recreational vessels, the most common are Trade Cable Diameter, MWG
(Metric Wire Gauge), AWG (American Wire Gauge), and B&S (Brown &
Sharpe). B&S is equal to AWG. B&S has been commonly miss
quoted as battery and starter, or perhaps this label is used to sell
a product that is not sized correctly.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M0JyxL_xhlkzKBuDhPIh6Y0csOTJYhgUza7R1qOnH-NDp1-hFkCkclGroaNYK4Yt3vS7mmMtfA1Ltlzzgp_1Oi76kEz_o3FpBW0f8rAtq8AY8GScZrDIDBULd0JMRJ6ZRCZfTRPL5OYMED6dcoaPpIj-f-vOGGIRpNSac913nHATH91lOnsJ_C-Z/s5472/Cross%20section%20of%20cables%20bigger%20is%20better%2070%20and%2035mm2%20shown%20the%2070mm2%20is%20used%20for%20inverter%20DC%20ground.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M0JyxL_xhlkzKBuDhPIh6Y0csOTJYhgUza7R1qOnH-NDp1-hFkCkclGroaNYK4Yt3vS7mmMtfA1Ltlzzgp_1Oi76kEz_o3FpBW0f8rAtq8AY8GScZrDIDBULd0JMRJ6ZRCZfTRPL5OYMED6dcoaPpIj-f-vOGGIRpNSac913nHATH91lOnsJ_C-Z/s320/Cross%20section%20of%20cables%20bigger%20is%20better%2070%20and%2035mm2%20shown%20the%2070mm2%20is%20used%20for%20inverter%20DC%20ground.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross section of cables and bigger is better, however this is an example of cable size, the larger cable is sold as 70mm2 which is equivalent to 00B&S or 00AWG and is actually 64.9mm2 and the smaller cable is sold as 35mm2 or 2B&S or 2AWG and is actually 32.15mm2 great stuff !!</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Trade Cable Diameter
is commonly used to market automotive/marine wire in Australia. This
is a trade unit referring to the total diameter of the cable to the
outside of the insulation, closer investigation is needed to find the
cross sectional area of the wire conductor before calculations for
current carrying capacity can be carried out. We will mostly need to
convert from Trade Cable Diameter to MWG (Metric wire gauge) which
measures the cross sectional area of the conductor in mm². Metric
wire gauge is used in several countries outside of the United States.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwwX1qFgoEguiiXScQguz-ZQzqnjGo7a9p3EguK6X6qlJM_jFFnGxwQxzEetDLyx1-q7a4y8GXTI5RASvAwZI5qP_nh3pe8jn6RcRt4kCiMWX36kQFigYBMPQEUE4zHt6rYpUDQROkojjRk7lKZh8OVOtV4okBmJnj05lzH3rxb-PwE9t8nNzHb5WY/s6000/Wire.%20Twin%20sheath%20wire%20%20red%20and%20black%20%20conductors%20are%20encased%20in%20a%20second%20layer%20of%20insulation.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwwX1qFgoEguiiXScQguz-ZQzqnjGo7a9p3EguK6X6qlJM_jFFnGxwQxzEetDLyx1-q7a4y8GXTI5RASvAwZI5qP_nh3pe8jn6RcRt4kCiMWX36kQFigYBMPQEUE4zHt6rYpUDQROkojjRk7lKZh8OVOtV4okBmJnj05lzH3rxb-PwE9t8nNzHb5WY/s320/Wire.%20Twin%20sheath%20wire%20%20red%20and%20black%20%20conductors%20are%20encased%20in%20a%20second%20layer%20of%20insulation.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is the type of cables most Australians will find on the shelves of their local chandlery. There is also usually single wires in red, black with out the outer white jacket. These are marketed as 4mm and 6mm however this is misleading and is explained in the following text. Also of note is the total lack of marking on the jacket of the wire explaining the actual cross section size, maximum temperature and voltage </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEUrgFxecockFi2yFAJV466NbvQ_CbPIwOTBdakrXJfxnFEy1zXSn4SEkFdvPmDQpJhW9Sz18MD_gT2a5h319beZDIELATxZtO338e0PCDrUO460MijNJzPxGAAaW4Db0ReaTywgxIJmtIcrgpGJUlnDJPPi5G8kZfGWr7_RCmiRMY1jBU6OIncW0M/s5472/Good%20quality%20cable%20stamped%20with%20size%20temp%20rating%20and%20maxium%20voltage.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEUrgFxecockFi2yFAJV466NbvQ_CbPIwOTBdakrXJfxnFEy1zXSn4SEkFdvPmDQpJhW9Sz18MD_gT2a5h319beZDIELATxZtO338e0PCDrUO460MijNJzPxGAAaW4Db0ReaTywgxIJmtIcrgpGJUlnDJPPi5G8kZfGWr7_RCmiRMY1jBU6OIncW0M/w526-h351/Good%20quality%20cable%20stamped%20with%20size%20temp%20rating%20and%20maxium%20voltage.JPG" width="526" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good quality cable stamped with size temp rating and maximum voltage</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">AWG (American wire
gauge) is most commonly used in the United States and because of the
size of the market, manufactures all over the world compete and
manufacture goods to their specifications for sale on that market.
One thing that is usually evident with wire made for the American
market is; that in most cases the size of the conductor and the temp
rating of the insulation is stamped on the jacket of good quality
marine cable and wires. The AWG is determined by the cross sectional
area of the conductor and doesn’t include the insulation, the same
as MWG however AWG is described using a list of defined standardized
gauge numbers. AWG gauge numbers work in the opposite direction to
MWG, with the smallest numbers representing the largest diameter
wires. For example 6mm Trade Cable Diameter has wire with a cross
sectional area of 4.59mm² (MWG) and this is roughly equivalent but
on the small side to 10 AWG. The next popular size on sale at the
chandlery is 4mm Trade Cable Diameter, this has a conductor size of
1.84mm² MWG and is equivalent to 15 AWG.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">B&S is commonly
used for marketing heavier wires and cables in Australia, I guess
this is where the confusion and tie up with batteries and starter
came about. As mentioned earlier B&S follows the same gauge
descriptions as AWG and is simply another way of explaining the wire
gauge. As an example 2 AWG = 2 B&S, 4 AWG = 4 B&S and so on.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AFWF3uG-ZHZd42aYlMgYrm3-IeBt8nzhzik0_GqM18X-Hl1jQ3ANnNxkcO2a-rTBJhKZd_SnkBk-fKy-yB0gMbDRGs2XiX830rV3cFWPcOkOjC_NZLx0WSat0-Nbq5sZnKRbxD3QpN5H4CgoqZYG12K1wjFxgI59aFs9rmxXoZapSJ8agrZqu2SC/s487/table%201.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="487" data-original-width="478" height="525" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AFWF3uG-ZHZd42aYlMgYrm3-IeBt8nzhzik0_GqM18X-Hl1jQ3ANnNxkcO2a-rTBJhKZd_SnkBk-fKy-yB0gMbDRGs2XiX830rV3cFWPcOkOjC_NZLx0WSat0-Nbq5sZnKRbxD3QpN5H4CgoqZYG12K1wjFxgI59aFs9rmxXoZapSJ8agrZqu2SC/w516-h525/table%201.png" width="516" /></a></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Wire</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As we know wire
could hardly find a more unforgiving environment than on board a
yacht. On board wiring has to be able to deal with the high humidity
and consistent vibration, and be able to recover from the odd
submersion as well as heat and cold from all manner of sources.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Wire used on a boat
must be copper, though even copper has been known to corrode in the
harsh marine environment. The most common cause of electrical wire
failures is primarily corrosion and secondly poor work practices
installing terminals and wires. I am sure we have all heard of tinned
copper wire and we will need to pay more for the advantage of having
the wires tinned during the manufacturing process. Tin plating each
of the multiple strands of the wire with a coat of tin dramatically
improves corrosion resistance. The additional cost of tinned wire is
worth every additional cent because the anti-corrosion benefits are
substantial. While the cost savings of buying untinned wire in the
auto electrical section of the car parts supplier looks tempting, try
not to justify this false economy. The cost savings are usually short
lived due to the high failure rate of untinned wire.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Choose your wire
carefully. Never use solid wire or wire intended for wiring a house.
Vibrations will eventually fracture solid wire. It doesn’t need to
be high frequency vibrations, wave motion is enough to flex all the
wires on the vessel even if you don’t feel the movement. Boat
wiring must have the flexibility multiple fine strands provides. The
insulation covering the wire used in house construction is different
to cable intended for the marine industry, so this is another reason
not to use house wire on the vessel. Marine cable uses heavy tin
plated annealed copper wire formed in such a way as to reduce
capillary action of moisture within the cable. The flexible stranding
(multiple fine strands) helps withstand fracturing due to the
movement caused by the marine environment. Good quality marine cable
has high temperature insulation to withstand the high ambient
temperatures of enclosed engine bays. Depending on the brand some
offer V75 (75 degrees C) and I have seen other suppliers/manufactures
who market V95 cable. Where is your cable going to run? If it’s
through the engine bay wire with the higher temperature rating
specification could be the better option. Don’t use wire in an
engine bay if you have no idea of the temperature rating of the cable
insulation jacket, it’s just asking for trouble.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbEVQq32nneyWRQ5CVqkD4GmUoCaRUsTwf7xqt8rBHtWsjHDRmTvpqe8zs825rong_yHr4a-oRyNRs_5XwQcRkE2REstrNO-kUocodAGqfohVrrrWjuhLEMXojtE2jH-uSyMAiszDzc7Ur370WM7h0_ai_BKivQNWEFf-XtuzP6DeD7FDdnGJgip9/s6000/Wire.%20Twin%20sheath%20wire%20%20red%20and%20black%20%20conductors%20are%20encased%20in%20a%20second%20layer%20of%20insulation.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbEVQq32nneyWRQ5CVqkD4GmUoCaRUsTwf7xqt8rBHtWsjHDRmTvpqe8zs825rong_yHr4a-oRyNRs_5XwQcRkE2REstrNO-kUocodAGqfohVrrrWjuhLEMXojtE2jH-uSyMAiszDzc7Ur370WM7h0_ai_BKivQNWEFf-XtuzP6DeD7FDdnGJgip9/w528-h351/Wire.%20Twin%20sheath%20wire%20%20red%20and%20black%20%20conductors%20are%20encased%20in%20a%20second%20layer%20of%20insulation.JPG" width="528" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire. Twin sheath wire red and black conductors are encased in a second layer of insulation, both conductors in the sheath are the same size. These are multi stranded tin plated annealed copper wire formed in such a way as to reduce capillary action of moisture within the cable and are suitable for boat wiring. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Most work for
rewiring or installations will require two wires one positive and a
ground (return) of the same size, don’t fall into the trap of
believing the return wire size is insignificant, its size has to be
equal to the supply wire. Twin sheath wire where the twin red
(positive) and black (ground) conductors are encased in a second
layer of insulation. This is convenient and provides the added
safety of that second layer of insulation. There is also imported
twin sheath wire with red and yellow conductor insulation, this is
usually wire made for the American market due to their marine colour
code where the black insulation colour is the active wire in an AC
circuit. There is single wires and a three core wire for use on extra
low voltage work on board, the wire colours vary with supplier but
white, brown and yellow is common.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Size</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As discussed
earlier, wire sizing in Australia isn’t easy for the average yachty
to get their head around the way wire is marketed. Unfortunately this
mish mash of labeling requires careful investigation of the product
to ensure it meets the correct size specification for your
application before handing over your hard earned money.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The bigger the wire
is the easier electrical current will flow through it. Some voltage
will be used up pushing the current through the wire. This loss,
called voltage drop, should not exceed 3%, for most circuits. However
there is some equipment that won’t mind a slightly lower voltage,
the only way you will know this fact is to look at the equipment
specifications sheet supplied with your equipment. It is essential to
use wire sized for the maximum current flow you expect it to carry.
If the wire supplies a single unit, the current requirements will be
shown on the label on the unit, or in the installation/owner’s
manual. While a 3% voltage drop sounds like it would be easy to
achieve remember 3% of 12.6 Volts is a drop of .38 Volts. So the
voltage at the other end of the wire at the appliance when running
under full load should be at a minimum 12.2 Volts.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">To arrive at the
length of wire used in the calculations for the correct size wiring,
you need the wire length from the power source (circuit breaker) to
the unit and back to the power source. As explained earlier not just
a as the crow flies type of measurement. You must determine the
actual length of the wire by measuring along the path it will
follow-up down, over, and around. I have found in most cases that
it’s not unusual for a wire run to be more than double the as the
crow flies distance.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Not all (I haven’t
come across any) electrical wire made to Australian standards as
appropriate for marine use will have the gauge designation and
temperature rating printed on the insulation, on the reel yes but not
the cable its self. Perhaps the Australian standards and the
manufactures need a kick start, this is a really poor/bad state of
affairs. You will find that the best thing to do is to label the wire
after purchase so it does not cause confusion at a later date. If you
have purchased imported wire remember the smaller the gauge number,
the larger the wire diameter.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBpXeJdLdcz764Fqu32NFVaY36zp7FB1klWJ8pVdjHRsv503nnRXnGnYaMRlp-I_cjWc2Ag4g4jR1LK78E7WPQQ7bzf4TERMViJt_ESZFDfXvyFX-t-W3XPur8YEomiamIEtVtMjcFbJutRntUb8Mn0VfxQt8mmhThx5QvA9GMTGvEYdXDV_rYE3h/s3193/Australian%20Manufactured%20Wire.%20%20A%20mystery%20once%20off%20the%20reel.%20%20%20No%20identification%20for%20size%20or%20temp%20value%20only%20a%20mark%20where%20the%20retailer%20should%20cut.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2009" data-original-width="3193" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBpXeJdLdcz764Fqu32NFVaY36zp7FB1klWJ8pVdjHRsv503nnRXnGnYaMRlp-I_cjWc2Ag4g4jR1LK78E7WPQQ7bzf4TERMViJt_ESZFDfXvyFX-t-W3XPur8YEomiamIEtVtMjcFbJutRntUb8Mn0VfxQt8mmhThx5QvA9GMTGvEYdXDV_rYE3h/w470-h295/Australian%20Manufactured%20Wire.%20%20A%20mystery%20once%20off%20the%20reel.%20%20%20No%20identification%20for%20size%20or%20temp%20value%20only%20a%20mark%20where%20the%20retailer%20should%20cut.jpg" width="470" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Australian Manufactured Wire. A mystery once off the reel. No identification for size or temp value only a mark where the retailer should cut metre length markers</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">When purchasing wire
for a job, buy wire at least a six hundred millimeters longer than
your measurement. You can easily shorten the wire after it is run but
lengthening requires a splice. Each wire should be a single
continuous run between terminals, this helps keep the moisture out of
the cable length.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">When you do your
calculations and head off to the chandler to buy the wire for your
job, beware of the misleading marketing used to sell wire. Some rolls
of cable will have current carrying capacity on the reel or in the
store catalog, these calculations don’t come with any information
as to the length of the cable run or the voltage drop calculations.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Wire sizing
Reference</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Table 2 shows what
size wire is required to deliver adequate voltage to the other end.
Use the maximum current draw of the equipment to select the row and
the round trip wire length to select the column. The number where
these two intersect is the wire size you need.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">I have tried to
simplify the wire sizes to the ones commonly held in stock at the
chandlers. The numbers with mm (e.g. 6mm) is the normally advertised
(Trade Cable Diameter) cable size, this is not the cross sectional
area.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Wire sizes without
the mm are B&S measurements. Remember B&S = AWG sizes.
Cables less than 8 B&S are available in the white twin sheath;
cable sizes 8,6,2 B&S are available in a twin with black sheath
but not normally stocked in most chandlery’s but should be
available so shop around. For better protection when using single
layer insulated cables the cables will need to be run in conduit,
cable trays, loom tube etc.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">In table 2 the
Round-Trip takes into account the total wire length (both wires) in
the circuit. So an instrument three metres from the power source will
at minimum use six metres of wire in the run, three metres of
(positive) wire from the circuit breaker to the unit and three metres
back to the ground bus to complete the circuit.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Wm65JT0-yzJX4K-k4kDy-SZYEnPG4xinV5ehyuSdH-ScxA74oDL09-W8ZzoRgJRJKMhp6haMsFLk3RVRkHJMevYCfmoN9sGuobVL6BHJdedEAer1HM25vZertl6MnAsQisbwJ7ne1a9qkq-SLLHuKtph-4n6Tf2mnUV8ZzTEZ0cC_BfbF1OYcaYS/s615/Table%202.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="615" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Wm65JT0-yzJX4K-k4kDy-SZYEnPG4xinV5ehyuSdH-ScxA74oDL09-W8ZzoRgJRJKMhp6haMsFLk3RVRkHJMevYCfmoN9sGuobVL6BHJdedEAer1HM25vZertl6MnAsQisbwJ7ne1a9qkq-SLLHuKtph-4n6Tf2mnUV8ZzTEZ0cC_BfbF1OYcaYS/w670-h508/Table%202.png" width="670" /></a></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 6.35cm; text-indent: 1.27cm;"><b>The Right Tools</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The cost of the
tools now days is nominal, however there are some very good trade
quality tool out there costing a lot and for very good reason, they
are made for day in day out work. For the amount of work most of us
do on our vessels I don’t think the out lay would be justified and
is more than we need to pay. Beware of clever advertising, I have
seen tools that I would say are really poor quality advertised as
tradie tools. The slightly better tool with several additional
functions are marketed as professional tools. Do your homework before
splashing the cash and you should be able to get tools that are easy
to use and provide trouble free service. I would even go as far as
asking the sales assistant for a demo. Yes I bought a crimp tool that
was the be all to end all, what a disappointment when I got it out of
the box at home and found I would need handle extensions to make it
work. What upset me the most was that I had to pay a restocking fee
when I returned a tool that clearly didn’t work.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Wire stripper:</b>
We should all have a good quality insulation wire stripper in the
tool box. Stripping insulation with an inappropriate tool can result
in a nicked conductor; or damage to the insulation. Nicking through
the tin coating opens the gate to corrosion at a later date. Or on
the other hand if the stripper damages the insulation there is the
possibility of this hindering your ability to complete a proper crimp
and the flow on result, a compromised join.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_3OxvDZ8NWoQSRBikHVLbZP_4zJqVTu5mFm6Z69igL9lSHLYKE06w2spW9beeOHE0GnjWcJFadTbHdCDiQDzIze_BoyGri4E72On7LhCbLv1KROxseNUwIszF0UXnp3RxFntfcZguDIjNHqgHqJpATAeghJIwRHKuSEm5fWM5kDkCrHn85SPv4qk/s3753/Tools.%20Wire%20Strippers%20pair%20on%20right%20has%20AWG%20and%20MWG%20markings.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3721" data-original-width="3753" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_3OxvDZ8NWoQSRBikHVLbZP_4zJqVTu5mFm6Z69igL9lSHLYKE06w2spW9beeOHE0GnjWcJFadTbHdCDiQDzIze_BoyGri4E72On7LhCbLv1KROxseNUwIszF0UXnp3RxFntfcZguDIjNHqgHqJpATAeghJIwRHKuSEm5fWM5kDkCrHn85SPv4qk/w446-h442/Tools.%20Wire%20Strippers%20pair%20on%20right%20has%20AWG%20and%20MWG%20markings.jpg" width="446" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire struppers for most smaller wire work, with the bigger size cables I use a electricians pocket knife. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Something to be
borne in mind is that strippers sold in auto supply, hardware and
tech stores can be for a variety of wire types. To clarify, I mean
wire manufactured to the different standards, I have only touched on
the most common types. You may find your strippers are marked with
SOL and or STR, confusing unless you know that SOL stands for solid
wire and STR is short for stranded wire. We should never use solid
wire on a boat so buy stranded wire and use the STR marking slot. The
next hurdle is going to be whether the strippers are for AWG
(American Wire Gauge), or MWG (Metric Wire Gauge) or has the tool
been made/marked to be for both. Now the thing here is who did the
calculation and did they round up or round down when doing the cross
reference. The best thing you can do is once you find a set of
strippers you like is to do some test strips to make sure you don’t
nick the conductors or reduce the size of the wire by accidently
trimming the conductors and mark them up for your use. I found a set
that works well and is marked with both AWG and MWG, I still have to
be careful when using them to make sure I don’t scrape the tin off
several of the conductors but I know they are not going to reduce the
size of the conductors by nicking off strands of wire.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfVNyZdCJ9RAHyyh7bNpQD4TxzJ7cTMeJs9Xnuq7y32UenS3K5jYhPtk91DW5-2782G0x8vo6dbt3qou4M5e1ssofJDf9r5hV0shOFTaCGPBcZnzkmbdez-bbdYWBuoNGCkr4yRCvo0YSpfGyhhzLcI-f4pBFL9zQI6xULq5S2jVNmkRLmnCLiZqc/s487/table%201.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="487" data-original-width="478" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfVNyZdCJ9RAHyyh7bNpQD4TxzJ7cTMeJs9Xnuq7y32UenS3K5jYhPtk91DW5-2782G0x8vo6dbt3qou4M5e1ssofJDf9r5hV0shOFTaCGPBcZnzkmbdez-bbdYWBuoNGCkr4yRCvo0YSpfGyhhzLcI-f4pBFL9zQI6xULq5S2jVNmkRLmnCLiZqc/w438-h446/table%201.png" width="438" /></a></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The Table 1 has a
reference between the different sized wires so selecting the right
slot on the stripper can be done easily.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Crimp tool: </b>You
absolutely cannot make a dependable crimp connection with a pair of
pliers or a set of multi-grips. However reasonably inexpensive (not
ratchet) plier type crimpers normally sold for the automotive
industry, if used correctly can make satisfactory crimp connections.
There are different styles of crimpers, it’s not a one style does
all. Some are for insulated terminals only and others feature
jaws/dies for insulated terminals and non-insulated terminals. One
rule you will need to follow is to know how to use the tool and make
a few practice crimps first. However you cannot beat a ratchet
crimper, this style of tool offers the advantage of not letting you
produce a crimp that does not have the required tension. That is as
long as the wire and terminal sizes have been matched correctly. A
ratchet crimper offers the benefit of consistency if used correctly.
Just so you are aware, having a better tool does not guarantee
perfect results every time, but practice first and you will be
producing good crimps in no time.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVIK-ZYhxG1CliY7PESE8U9Ujrr_q2ul52R2zMoAhFEDm40FUjgZ-Bn9f-kyFR4s49--K-J5dMvANDc_cxmpYHr5VcKPXbt7hRALIhlyMgTdoPnVqiAeTaX1fB0g1LlbZo3s649-fxfvZScx2CQ4uv0onc7S-h52Y-FYYZWnxYg2qjOtFFXFdSoZU/s4737/Tools.%20Top%20Uninsulated%20Crimper%20Middle%20Insulated%20Terminal%20Crimper%20Bottom%20Special%20Connector%20Crimper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3959" data-original-width="4737" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVIK-ZYhxG1CliY7PESE8U9Ujrr_q2ul52R2zMoAhFEDm40FUjgZ-Bn9f-kyFR4s49--K-J5dMvANDc_cxmpYHr5VcKPXbt7hRALIhlyMgTdoPnVqiAeTaX1fB0g1LlbZo3s649-fxfvZScx2CQ4uv0onc7S-h52Y-FYYZWnxYg2qjOtFFXFdSoZU/w508-h424/Tools.%20Top%20Uninsulated%20Crimper%20Middle%20Insulated%20Terminal%20Crimper%20Bottom%20Special%20Connector%20Crimper.jpg" width="508" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tools. Top Uninsulated Crimper Middle Insulated Terminal Crimper Bottom Special Connector Uninsulated Crimper</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">I could just leave
it here as a general piece about crimp tools, but and there always is
a but, crimp terminals come in a variety of styles. The problem is
recognizing the type of crimp you have so you can match it to the
correct tool. Hopefully the next paragraphs will shed some light on
the styles and what tool to use.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXUrXw_5NS2iXQHYb87_Rz2B-uxYt0DGfyCAbeh9v9UFyNqL608dRtkD_A9yrSN-34DgioDn0AEbbNQqjtM3ifdtaqqI8o5E3DHnfP3kVUfEXzwBfuxdhjmlOrw8iCJwt58JdubbfJ4oQYY0tm7VyDOMUHsxU-qMdOOeps1t66osMwSmmdaFBfqEa/s597/33365_haigh_crimp_tool_1.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="597" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXUrXw_5NS2iXQHYb87_Rz2B-uxYt0DGfyCAbeh9v9UFyNqL608dRtkD_A9yrSN-34DgioDn0AEbbNQqjtM3ifdtaqqI8o5E3DHnfP3kVUfEXzwBfuxdhjmlOrw8iCJwt58JdubbfJ4oQYY0tm7VyDOMUHsxU-qMdOOeps1t66osMwSmmdaFBfqEa/s320/33365_haigh_crimp_tool_1.webp" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ok here is a crimp tool that will do the job in an emergency. They are good if you need a tool that can strip and crimp, they do require a lot more work, and strong hands. They allow shoddy work or crimps not put on with sufficient force due to not having a ratchet function They do however have a very handy feature if you need to trim off machine screws they can have a cutter function built in to trim screws off no filing or messing about once trimmed to length the nuts will go straight on. </td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Terminals</b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Terminal Styles:
insulated, insulated shrink tube, un-insulated, cable lugs and
un-insulated specialist connectors.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Insulated terminals
can be easily identified by the coloured plastic boot on the end of
the terminal. It doesn’t just stop at just a plastic boot however,
depending on the brand some have additional tinned copper sleeves
under the plastic insulator. The colour of the insulated sleeve on
the terminal will denote what size wire the terminal is made for. If
you haven’t had a lot of exposure to crimp terminals you may not
realize the plastic sleeve serves a couple of purposes. Besides
insulation and identification, one important aspect of the sleeve is
that in a properly crimped insulated terminal the sleeve acts to
relieve the stresses placed on the wire where it exits the insulation
jacket. This will stop unnecessary stress on the wire due to
vibration or movement when connected to a terminal block, without
strain relief the wires may fall off the back of the terminal after a
short service life.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Insulated adhesive
lined shrink tube terminals are colour coded like their cousins, the
difference is the shrink tube is transparent and a larger diameter
than the standard insulated terminals. These terminals are not a bad
idea on a boat, they offer a level of strain relief not achievable
with standard insulated terminals. However they do not create a
water tight seal at the end of the cable but they will stop water
entering between the wire insulation and the tubing. Greater care
will need to be exercised when using shrink tube terminals so the
tube is not damaged. A single jaw crimp tool must be used, not the
dual jaw/die as would be used with standard insulated terminals. The
other way to achieve a heat shrink strain relief is to apply shrink
tube over the crimped insulated terminal and shrink it down.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The colour code for
the insulated terminals is: Trade size wire MWG</p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Red wire size min:
0.25mm²- max: 1.65mm² 2mm & 3mm 0.5mm² 1.65mm²</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Blue wire size min:
1.04mm²- max: 2.63mm² 4mm 1.84mm²</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Yellow wire size
min: 2.63mm²- max: 6.64mm² 6mm 4.59mm²</div><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-cwfhOAvI1dXNyWGf_yJUz3RYvq3Q_659wfyPhtW60F3045hS6cfqVdcmMfcchKtsH0n3CdvTfcgGlCflVmNDt9xuoKJlKJMWMt6LanJ8MzTYirP08Sn7lFe_nqtweAMIEAS4q3vse9nmM-mbJuICS15AwYr5wFLOJHNrcoAlTH-GvC__eNPNnaF/s3201/Terminals.%20Assorted%20insulated%20crimp%20terminals.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3137" data-original-width="3201" height="483" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-cwfhOAvI1dXNyWGf_yJUz3RYvq3Q_659wfyPhtW60F3045hS6cfqVdcmMfcchKtsH0n3CdvTfcgGlCflVmNDt9xuoKJlKJMWMt6LanJ8MzTYirP08Sn7lFe_nqtweAMIEAS4q3vse9nmM-mbJuICS15AwYr5wFLOJHNrcoAlTH-GvC__eNPNnaF/w492-h483/Terminals.%20Assorted%20insulated%20crimp%20terminals.jpg" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulated crimp terminals of various sizes and styles.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja3xZg4pYu1nVx_RHyF9BYjhDctn_2cZFoG-Z67IdG_YpJE9xlX9Ih47RC6J6gpH0Owq5fPwUdkH8P7Ih5vsH-pP9sl8sSo8SeLVEm_3SJOtid1AzAod-KuzdxinP4BVJaMctE9QdGj2oo1Uyl3VMnMchH--vmhBUeysNUpgKb5LkMhktk1umyjX68/s2556/Terminals.%20Uninsulated%20ring%20terminals%20seam%20showing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2129" data-original-width="2556" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja3xZg4pYu1nVx_RHyF9BYjhDctn_2cZFoG-Z67IdG_YpJE9xlX9Ih47RC6J6gpH0Owq5fPwUdkH8P7Ih5vsH-pP9sl8sSo8SeLVEm_3SJOtid1AzAod-KuzdxinP4BVJaMctE9QdGj2oo1Uyl3VMnMchH--vmhBUeysNUpgKb5LkMhktk1umyjX68/s320/Terminals.%20Uninsulated%20ring%20terminals%20seam%20showing.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uninsulated lug the ones shown above have a seam that is easy to see, mostly this style of lug is for smaller diameter wire. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Uninsulated lugs come in a few different styles, some are made for specific wire sizes and the hole diameters on the ring terminals. When using un-insulated terminals if the crimp barrel has a seam, the crimp indent should be made on the opposite side, mostly the seam is easy to see.</p></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEdNGgsrCnKXwK5zqfmwaM8Y3h18OqGlRlisMkZtoliQ0tx5LSQhnqn85CgPK-5NxQDuDH-q6PX5bKc9Q_8npNxHLbEPHNjeIDFapwoCaWh9Tuwa3QHUPksWDPXOHdZ69OBeWIBvVheJu1yPuiyRsoTP5RCMoYU8XZ6dFYnhacE9OD8jjUYdTfMvD/s2648/Terminals.%20Uninsulated%20crimp%20indentation%20on%20the%20opposite%20side%20to%20the%20seam.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2648" data-original-width="2233" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEdNGgsrCnKXwK5zqfmwaM8Y3h18OqGlRlisMkZtoliQ0tx5LSQhnqn85CgPK-5NxQDuDH-q6PX5bKc9Q_8npNxHLbEPHNjeIDFapwoCaWh9Tuwa3QHUPksWDPXOHdZ69OBeWIBvVheJu1yPuiyRsoTP5RCMoYU8XZ6dFYnhacE9OD8jjUYdTfMvD/w403-h477/Terminals.%20Uninsulated%20crimp%20indentation%20on%20the%20opposite%20side%20to%20the%20seam.jpg" width="403" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A uninsulated terminal, the indentation from the crimp tool is made on the side opposite the seam as can be seen here. </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Uninsulated terminals can be used to form a very robust connection. Firstly crimp on an uninsulated terminal to form a mechanical connection on to the wire, then solder the tip of the wire to the terminal. When the terminal cools slightly install adhesive lined shrink tube. Once shrunk down it will create a good strain relief that under normal conditions is a water tight seal on the end of the cable. There is a bit of conjecture about solder, and that it is not as good a conductor as copper. While this may be, the connection is already very good due to the crimp, the solder is just additional and is excellent in the marine environment because it can keep moisture out of the end of the wire terminal.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9KWYX4sV47zcBbnYiUWS9P6D0rKZfqvTVGl-DSjrl_F-56y7Nz-I01J8YM5-x7mlzfKE4KUQfuZIF9Cw8Kq60KA5tbcht8dCAvmI0C_4i3wZ9UKl53rS5A6f8ibUGRgNMojGkMHjbskbKZpV69zmjoCPU63t1BqU82D9UPSIKvV5847FmQO7znj7/s6000/A1%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20terminal%20crimped%20on%20to%20wire%20Indentation%20opposite%20side%20to%20terminal%20seam%20Heat%20shrink%20tube%20in%20place%20before%20crimping%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9KWYX4sV47zcBbnYiUWS9P6D0rKZfqvTVGl-DSjrl_F-56y7Nz-I01J8YM5-x7mlzfKE4KUQfuZIF9Cw8Kq60KA5tbcht8dCAvmI0C_4i3wZ9UKl53rS5A6f8ibUGRgNMojGkMHjbskbKZpV69zmjoCPU63t1BqU82D9UPSIKvV5847FmQO7znj7/w412-h274/A1%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20terminal%20crimped%20on%20to%20wire%20Indentation%20opposite%20side%20to%20terminal%20seam%20Heat%20shrink%20tube%20in%20place%20before%20crimping%20.JPG" width="412" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trim the insulation from the wire make sure it is not too long and the length should fit into the barrel and not protrude more then a mm out the end. Then put on the heat shrink and crimp the lug into place. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuG2VwbxwHuKs4eL2EmPILUiuQrXzE_3kOkNwiIgGu0E3zj8C4oScY3DH8UNvrMX16TDZYW8Nq_PGfquWcvbTz370CmEbXOkRjbMS_dMGN-ep0ymuTWXsZ9ZkGcaxLUw_4uYM27JbXdSXNNGg9J3Um3NmQYntDAaHAVU0dl7IAztL07xywVnfSlKbL/s6000/A2%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20Solder%20open%20end%20of%20terminal%20to%20wire.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuG2VwbxwHuKs4eL2EmPILUiuQrXzE_3kOkNwiIgGu0E3zj8C4oScY3DH8UNvrMX16TDZYW8Nq_PGfquWcvbTz370CmEbXOkRjbMS_dMGN-ep0ymuTWXsZ9ZkGcaxLUw_4uYM27JbXdSXNNGg9J3Um3NmQYntDAaHAVU0dl7IAztL07xywVnfSlKbL/w441-h294/A2%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20Solder%20open%20end%20of%20terminal%20to%20wire.JPG" width="441" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apply solder to the end of the wire to seal the tube and wet the wire inside of the crimped connector</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZMD87hgAKKp_iwY6U_JLQ1OT7Tijgx9eUtuBnkhxFOBoi1mdhK6F47-YSbrdNJUHCONLE8dnUOXL4259XqfOXpLoiOzCaYNjIhinaHPQLVzQGzeZgpaUaBUOb83ih9IWUXm9sit88aHBalpQUNGsMtGDJAdfxQYPqfWwgMQZq7YiR1frIQJcpK9c/s6000/A3%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20Solder%20open%20end%20of%20terminal%20to%20wire%20Solder%20here%20has%20flowed%20and%20adhered%20nicely.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZMD87hgAKKp_iwY6U_JLQ1OT7Tijgx9eUtuBnkhxFOBoi1mdhK6F47-YSbrdNJUHCONLE8dnUOXL4259XqfOXpLoiOzCaYNjIhinaHPQLVzQGzeZgpaUaBUOb83ih9IWUXm9sit88aHBalpQUNGsMtGDJAdfxQYPqfWwgMQZq7YiR1frIQJcpK9c/w449-h298/A3%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20Solder%20open%20end%20of%20terminal%20to%20wire%20Solder%20here%20has%20flowed%20and%20adhered%20nicely.JPG" width="449" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apply a little more heat to wick the solder into the connection, most times its possible to see the solder start to show between the insulation and lug, stop here you don't want the solder to wick too far under the insulation.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0ZSxuzHWmu3J4qRHLp6VALVWvclL_ECSBLHZOG5jZJKvbyBGQT6YuX52rzFnJD8xH5966_3xhtpNpPpeE8hpBE0J0hpt5gpCo18KQu2K5BSMFMUkuApgszX2N5buz6JwfaBQllhmZf3GC4NAbP-bWzx9M_zAOjngyHfeF_LoJpo9ifGHLMb3-RZp/s6000/A4%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20After%20the%20solder%20and%20terminal%20has%20cooled%20slightly%20pull%20up%20heatshrink%20sleeve%20and%20apply%20heat%20to%20shrink%20into%20place%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0ZSxuzHWmu3J4qRHLp6VALVWvclL_ECSBLHZOG5jZJKvbyBGQT6YuX52rzFnJD8xH5966_3xhtpNpPpeE8hpBE0J0hpt5gpCo18KQu2K5BSMFMUkuApgszX2N5buz6JwfaBQllhmZf3GC4NAbP-bWzx9M_zAOjngyHfeF_LoJpo9ifGHLMb3-RZp/w452-h301/A4%20Making%20a%20robust%20connection.%20After%20the%20solder%20and%20terminal%20has%20cooled%20slightly%20pull%20up%20heatshrink%20sleeve%20and%20apply%20heat%20to%20shrink%20into%20place%20.JPG" width="452" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrink the adhesive lined shrink tube over the end of the lug and onto the insulation. This connection should be sealed enough to stop water or moisture from wicking under the insulation corroding the wire</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOA4kea_RzMvdKp2ztSZ-wGnDvADgGmltmArqyhUMIssh141UbI_Uk0A_SqgRjeMB4faKm34K8Ncbhv06JP1SOzOQmRMsXMHKOePmvQOjXZ-CM-tt_nzbExBp4L8W-QyCVboPW9CgeHg3ZNTFlXBijvaTRwTafWRDfoWNqnuoVmg3ecxy77CtIn2LV/s6000/Adhesive%20lined%20shrink%20tube%20uninsulated%20terminal%20crimped%20soldered%20and%20heat%20shrink%20for%20a%20robust%20connection.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOA4kea_RzMvdKp2ztSZ-wGnDvADgGmltmArqyhUMIssh141UbI_Uk0A_SqgRjeMB4faKm34K8Ncbhv06JP1SOzOQmRMsXMHKOePmvQOjXZ-CM-tt_nzbExBp4L8W-QyCVboPW9CgeHg3ZNTFlXBijvaTRwTafWRDfoWNqnuoVmg3ecxy77CtIn2LV/w477-h317/Adhesive%20lined%20shrink%20tube%20uninsulated%20terminal%20crimped%20soldered%20and%20heat%20shrink%20for%20a%20robust%20connection.JPG" width="477" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uninsulated terminals on a short wire, adhesive lined shrink tube used as a sealant on the connection and doing a double service as strain relief of the join between the wire and terminal</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0QenCnByE_2QpOzYQN6JM3N8jugrQi0rygR2cMjPUCzjoZDbwkVWsmERqTQ6kIb-0-Hp3j6Py9FK_FbxPa2t-0CYb8YSQ0-8cWuq_sVTYPIcyE5ktFcvrkrGL2E_XCMRVoIbD9yEs7aUNY5b-HaWT5ar3v7Yz5TpGJeBpdbwQqYrb5CbT9-2auHD/s2737/Terminals.%20Battery%20lugs%20cable%20size%20and%20stud%20size%20stamped%20into%20lug.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2737" data-original-width="2497" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0QenCnByE_2QpOzYQN6JM3N8jugrQi0rygR2cMjPUCzjoZDbwkVWsmERqTQ6kIb-0-Hp3j6Py9FK_FbxPa2t-0CYb8YSQ0-8cWuq_sVTYPIcyE5ktFcvrkrGL2E_XCMRVoIbD9yEs7aUNY5b-HaWT5ar3v7Yz5TpGJeBpdbwQqYrb5CbT9-2auHD/s320/Terminals.%20Battery%20lugs%20cable%20size%20and%20stud%20size%20stamped%20into%20lug.JPG" width="292" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heavy duty cable lugs, a large crimp tool is required to make these fit properly on the cables. Depending on the crimp tool 2 or 3 crimps evenly spaced along the body tube is necessary to execute the proper crimp connection</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIayccmpu1_TgYMHjpPtvExpoa4UAoINPxDRgh-WwCrlUJ_Z6Op-Va0Gm4FOGuQlnLqQLwVbIqBAJNE-gCDJu-aX9I40mBh7Y6_kx3ZQC5ChdqrNKf53ZOGk_jLcySNcb65prH2bsq-DrdCwaoJh-Mml3EQ4yFxTuaXtqUkvYkOoVUnm6pG6BJ5aXI/s3161/Terminals.%20Heavy%20duty%20uninsulated%20crimp%20terminals%20Cable%20size%20and%20stud%20size%20stamped%20onto%20terminal.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2305" data-original-width="3161" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIayccmpu1_TgYMHjpPtvExpoa4UAoINPxDRgh-WwCrlUJ_Z6Op-Va0Gm4FOGuQlnLqQLwVbIqBAJNE-gCDJu-aX9I40mBh7Y6_kx3ZQC5ChdqrNKf53ZOGk_jLcySNcb65prH2bsq-DrdCwaoJh-Mml3EQ4yFxTuaXtqUkvYkOoVUnm6pG6BJ5aXI/s320/Terminals.%20Heavy%20duty%20uninsulated%20crimp%20terminals%20Cable%20size%20and%20stud%20size%20stamped%20onto%20terminal.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uninsulated lugs, heavy duty, the cable size and hole size for the stud is marked on the lugs. In this case in <span style="text-align: left;">mm²</span> & millimetres </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyXKYclmQmnxPQTDjFLyW4-EO5ByGELUlt08ANueXdMfCnOxzqJd8hr4uHdom-0o6C79YbGJQmOlf354fa_vwq69MI3Jd00aMi_sji8ymsYvAv__uwyvplvROnesZmFWOwS-9oxr5bBD7Y1VPFyGQ3RAdjBZ_u_IIBYK3CHvNxXQcvguHdKOP5eo3/s3801/Tools.%20Special%20uninsulated%20terminal%20crimp%20tool%20and%20special%20terminals%20assemble%20into%20multi%20connector.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3801" data-original-width="2841" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyXKYclmQmnxPQTDjFLyW4-EO5ByGELUlt08ANueXdMfCnOxzqJd8hr4uHdom-0o6C79YbGJQmOlf354fa_vwq69MI3Jd00aMi_sji8ymsYvAv__uwyvplvROnesZmFWOwS-9oxr5bBD7Y1VPFyGQ3RAdjBZ_u_IIBYK3CHvNxXQcvguHdKOP5eo3/s320/Tools.%20Special%20uninsulated%20terminal%20crimp%20tool%20and%20special%20terminals%20assemble%20into%20multi%20connector.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Specialist uninsulated crimp tool, seen here with the contacts and shell of a multi contact connector housing</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Other terminals are
made for use with specialist crimp tools, these terminals are made
for plastic boots to be fitted over the cable insulation before
crimping the terminal on, then slid over the crimp once finished.
These crimp tools can also be used to install the specialist
terminals when assembling multiple contact quick connect plugs and
housings.
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b> Warning you do get what you pay for</b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">A word of warning
you do get what you pay for when crimp terminals are concerned.
Terminals sold cheaply at the local electronics enthusiasts or
vehicle accessory store may not be a very good choice. In a lot of
cases they are not tinned copper but a copper alloy blend, they are
hard to crimp both physically and mechanically and in service offer
poor corrosion resistance.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Crimping</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Strip enough
insulation for the wire to reach the end of the barrel of the
terminal inside the insulated end. Grip the terminal in the correct
crimper slot, fully insert the wire into the terminal. It’s time to
eye ball your creation before squeezing the trigger on the crimp
tool. Make sure enough wire is inserted into the terminal barrel, if
you are using fully insulated terminal and cannot see the end of the
wire try the wire for size in an open terminal to be sure. Too much
insulation stripped off can be as bad as not enough and could lead to
a compromised crimp job. When using insulated terminals no bare wire
should protrude out from the terminal. Have another quick look hold
the wire into the terminal and squeeze tightly.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjo49gMZ_cMbokmArCEJ69WTJLQ1Eo9pICKX54NtUD7o-eUSNvvQfPpvGM2xlGwm8LSFoaYG3YmsOEJrdcEwsyEgtm9gHElUIWO1SdrNUfzXWy3ldWeIJ1MTLKC_zxHe6YduJ12QBHD-7W0aZPqZi73-dkZFQCxBKJO7RuZrfdpdWEq5Rv_b-z001g/s6000/Crimping.%201%20Strip%20wire%20to%20length%20for%20terminal.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjo49gMZ_cMbokmArCEJ69WTJLQ1Eo9pICKX54NtUD7o-eUSNvvQfPpvGM2xlGwm8LSFoaYG3YmsOEJrdcEwsyEgtm9gHElUIWO1SdrNUfzXWy3ldWeIJ1MTLKC_zxHe6YduJ12QBHD-7W0aZPqZi73-dkZFQCxBKJO7RuZrfdpdWEq5Rv_b-z001g/w354-h532/Crimping.%201%20Strip%20wire%20to%20length%20for%20terminal.jpg" width="354" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulation stripped to length to fit the barrel of the connector</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9sKAon2hxOZvLv0NXCe2pboMMxIF0xM3z7kTFYY3lGlF7Echslq7dEd3z_Y-eVCFQ318fm9wW2K4d1kjSM906K0ABWCnzOl07siTptso7yKVtUtckI6avoFI68qThqO64rKEZ4DSh-905k5isCUr1PSpVKtlODVMUXc14hN-yMmdzKGXaBJX4o8X/s3761/Crimping.%202%20Check%20the%20wire%20is%20the%20right%20length%20for%20terminal.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3263" data-original-width="3761" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9sKAon2hxOZvLv0NXCe2pboMMxIF0xM3z7kTFYY3lGlF7Echslq7dEd3z_Y-eVCFQ318fm9wW2K4d1kjSM906K0ABWCnzOl07siTptso7yKVtUtckI6avoFI68qThqO64rKEZ4DSh-905k5isCUr1PSpVKtlODVMUXc14hN-yMmdzKGXaBJX4o8X/w447-h388/Crimping.%202%20Check%20the%20wire%20is%20the%20right%20length%20for%20terminal.jpg" width="447" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Strip enough insulation for the wire to reach the end of the barrel of the terminal inside the insulated end.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bRc94njcpW878BUJg4J8Nm3ag8ndLDrUXcLKe4FKOYcw3ZplvW4VwWxlPwH28XGJR8xTAIQ7e3pqAp2DukkMolSSuVysLys9CEKayyQvLwgKSmEqpemrmcXGSzgSFFahsCKStK1Wt1uq7j24v_pujLDuEX40pBizA0iiG5GmfvfEBies0VA1q_Yl/s6000/Crimping.%203%20Place%20terminal%20in%20crimper%20hold%20wire%20into%20terminal%20while%20squeezing%20crimp%20tool%20closed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bRc94njcpW878BUJg4J8Nm3ag8ndLDrUXcLKe4FKOYcw3ZplvW4VwWxlPwH28XGJR8xTAIQ7e3pqAp2DukkMolSSuVysLys9CEKayyQvLwgKSmEqpemrmcXGSzgSFFahsCKStK1Wt1uq7j24v_pujLDuEX40pBizA0iiG5GmfvfEBies0VA1q_Yl/w456-h304/Crimping.%203%20Place%20terminal%20in%20crimper%20hold%20wire%20into%20terminal%20while%20squeezing%20crimp%20tool%20closed.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Grip the terminal in the correct crimper slot, fully insert the wire into the terminal. It’s time to eye ball your creation before squeezing the trigger on the crimp tool.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTauMZD50devsMxOkSnL1NicRuUE9WICV4CSjhk7022mBXwm4tM0ES4ka0AFH0bWFeBFHLJF3p9Wk87FkrYdCsAx0K_vsJDipSy6sAs2mtShJnTYf4PRs-NMUpqkTzrO28kEfpZK7xaaO0d3oPw9VN9JOpVDH1BkzW3XqW9gnFCfvERgJimAOsl-Rw/s2749/Crimping.%204%20Finished%20crimp%20terminal%20connected%20to%20wire%20and%20insulation%20held%20by%20insulated%20sleeve.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2749" data-original-width="2633" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTauMZD50devsMxOkSnL1NicRuUE9WICV4CSjhk7022mBXwm4tM0ES4ka0AFH0bWFeBFHLJF3p9Wk87FkrYdCsAx0K_vsJDipSy6sAs2mtShJnTYf4PRs-NMUpqkTzrO28kEfpZK7xaaO0d3oPw9VN9JOpVDH1BkzW3XqW9gnFCfvERgJimAOsl-Rw/w413-h432/Crimping.%204%20Finished%20crimp%20terminal%20connected%20to%20wire%20and%20insulation%20held%20by%20insulated%20sleeve.jpg" width="413" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished crimp the wire has been retained in the crimp and the plastic tube crimped on to the insulation for strain relief on the join. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As discussed in the
terminal section the insulated terminals plastic sleeve will need to
be crimped on over the insulation of the wire to add mechanical
strength. Insulated terminals are usually installed by a crimp tool
with a double jaw/die. If your crimper doesn't have a double crimp
jaws, crimp the terminal to the wire first, then reposition the tool
and crimp the sleeve to the insulation.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYcuGRVSvmduIfdTvXBuq141nia07wymuedm508Ddq84wHR41uVe0RWwlOuUABYmRUijzbpaNqKcW9S9icQX93Ml2jis5aoNw_EVWH0FF62K7KSEGFn9__g9NsUVMzDUE3RLEZeNZ3-Z5xOb4evWrXnpQQFS1AFNcrELPW8cHvNVosnnmeK-gInqW/s2648/Poor%20Crimping%20Job.%20Bad%20crimp%20too%20much%20insulation%20stripped.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2648" data-original-width="2177" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYcuGRVSvmduIfdTvXBuq141nia07wymuedm508Ddq84wHR41uVe0RWwlOuUABYmRUijzbpaNqKcW9S9icQX93Ml2jis5aoNw_EVWH0FF62K7KSEGFn9__g9NsUVMzDUE3RLEZeNZ3-Z5xOb4evWrXnpQQFS1AFNcrELPW8cHvNVosnnmeK-gInqW/s320/Poor%20Crimping%20Job.%20Bad%20crimp%20too%20much%20insulation%20stripped.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This crimp had way too much insulation stripped off , this could have been fixed by shortening the length of the stripped wire, The plastic sleeve should be crimped over the insulation to aid the joint. Time to cut it off and do it again. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyx1H59aR3zhTrwWQgX8BGi1rVW44vSKd-UTAou3rWKFwOG2JqnmRD-3VMdvtGqHNIn4wYXHQ1np241LyioFBcXzyTNx58Nv50JOdBgesSsDuwUGNcFIP8ytodCmP0r-ixKVEsa_F6rdZ5DmD3lPxxAmmjUEs1_kT2HmjfiTJ10uQg87yDYe97zbq/s3225/Poor%20Crimping%20Job.%20Not%20a%20good%20look%20uninsulated%20crimp%20tool%20used%20to%20crimp%20insiulated%20terminals%20no%20control%20of%20wire%20stripped%20length.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3225" data-original-width="3001" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyx1H59aR3zhTrwWQgX8BGi1rVW44vSKd-UTAou3rWKFwOG2JqnmRD-3VMdvtGqHNIn4wYXHQ1np241LyioFBcXzyTNx58Nv50JOdBgesSsDuwUGNcFIP8ytodCmP0r-ixKVEsa_F6rdZ5DmD3lPxxAmmjUEs1_kT2HmjfiTJ10uQg87yDYe97zbq/s320/Poor%20Crimping%20Job.%20Not%20a%20good%20look%20uninsulated%20crimp%20tool%20used%20to%20crimp%20insiulated%20terminals%20no%20control%20of%20wire%20stripped%20length.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you have any crimped connectors looking like this its time to chop them off and start again, the top two have way too much insulation stripped off before the crimp has been done. The next fault is the wrong style of crimp tool has been used to do the job on all of these connectors. As a side note the wire used here is not marine grade and the wires are not tinned to help reduce corrosion but I think that's the least of the problems. </td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Connections</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">From my experiences
I have found wires rarely fail in the middle of a wire run. Of course
the exceptions to the rule here is a nick in the insulation letting
in moisture to corrode the wire, chafe due to the lack of securing
points, crush damage or perhaps lying against the hot metal of the
motor, or heater. So almost all wiring problems occur at the
connections.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOcAP4swzZhqavG5hhFNZz01VulgPGU2TF5IGrEgNaU0Ob25uyju-E2HWgD83dDNl4VG8Rl-MzxkNkBk9l6jXmkX0X6h9wht7zqa7dXaE75eDIQwtDNp3Dr0qZesu3YxM-wf8kUw8PsxbfHzDsH7li6JlJRzxpKkbJu-SycWBUuz79xVNZy9icLtJ/s6000/Terminal%20Blocks.%20Terminal%20Block%20with%20ring%20terminals%20connected%20to%20block.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOcAP4swzZhqavG5hhFNZz01VulgPGU2TF5IGrEgNaU0Ob25uyju-E2HWgD83dDNl4VG8Rl-MzxkNkBk9l6jXmkX0X6h9wht7zqa7dXaE75eDIQwtDNp3Dr0qZesu3YxM-wf8kUw8PsxbfHzDsH7li6JlJRzxpKkbJu-SycWBUuz79xVNZy9icLtJ/s320/Terminal%20Blocks.%20Terminal%20Block%20with%20ring%20terminals%20connected%20to%20block.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The screws in this terminal strip are not captive and ring terminals have been used on the wires. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As discussed in the
terminal section, selecting the proper connector requires you to
match it to the correct size wire gauge and to the size of the
terminal block screw or buss bar stud. I have found ring terminals
are your best choice unless the terminal screw is captive, then the
best connector to use will be a flanged spade connectors.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_CsEpD-urDhuzSq7GXeulDZ6PlXjyL-o1aelJVBoIyaD9TF2O0TptrIR6VQ8bJiIGHMeiT349G-n00S1jjftwbrj0i28egYZqjoKRJ4W0t_xxhmoIGrbsmc2Q5oTBqhFwdF2EhZsVqZBoyfCzaXHF7mB1jznyFwJ9jJ6X7Bt6QoE-hyjsJcz5Xa0/s3353/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Come%20in%20various%20sizes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3353" data-original-width="2441" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_CsEpD-urDhuzSq7GXeulDZ6PlXjyL-o1aelJVBoIyaD9TF2O0TptrIR6VQ8bJiIGHMeiT349G-n00S1jjftwbrj0i28egYZqjoKRJ4W0t_xxhmoIGrbsmc2Q5oTBqhFwdF2EhZsVqZBoyfCzaXHF7mB1jznyFwJ9jJ6X7Bt6QoE-hyjsJcz5Xa0/s320/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Come%20in%20various%20sizes.jpg" width="233" /></a>
</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">A lot of chandlery’s
supply nylon/plastic screw connector strips, while these look like an
easy way to make a connection they are nothing but trouble in the
long run. The principal is simple, strip the wire put it the terminal
hole and tighten the screw down on to the wire. Simply tightening
the screw can cut part way through the conductors. This is not to say
all of these strips are bad, there are some that have protective
shield to stop screw damage but these are hard to get. If you must
use these connectors use a crimped pin terminal or ferrule over the
wires to protect against damage. But in the long run using terminal
block strips with screws and ring terminals on the wire is a more
reliable way of making connections.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjrMO8GS6hc-CI3uB4jgr3JnYuRID4AesOJqNXR4VRrlSj8IitHqEalTEZ2MMzn6rUYdTyYNIhOaoNhKrblAjxKtB522sPQUN6ApUBR5TwFj3yFV81vNXqgbrlnMXW_nwYMlQrdUPBjJNN8CjkYGioq5yAooXLt3EQdLEH3lyihK4yjmGRChCdokN/s2648/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Conductor%20damage%20from%20the%20terminal%20screw.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2648" data-original-width="1960" height="463" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjrMO8GS6hc-CI3uB4jgr3JnYuRID4AesOJqNXR4VRrlSj8IitHqEalTEZ2MMzn6rUYdTyYNIhOaoNhKrblAjxKtB522sPQUN6ApUBR5TwFj3yFV81vNXqgbrlnMXW_nwYMlQrdUPBjJNN8CjkYGioq5yAooXLt3EQdLEH3lyihK4yjmGRChCdokN/w343-h463/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Conductor%20damage%20from%20the%20terminal%20screw.jpg" width="343" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screw connector strips. Conductor damage from the terminal screw, this sort of contact is likely to be good after the initial install but failure usually comes in the coming months when the wire strands break or the compression of the wire strands becomes loose from the expansion and contracting due to heating when in use. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDTzh7-IYoSD6rZwsQXE01fdjbxah30g6kb1brc4jhwETs8kxKFj4rR8ZWZkWYgdQ5-AABChIBzmwxDeNGrwVoA8zmN23xHCxeR5oq4v_nM7bfPNhotmwZNQ5bu6dm_E5tMzMLb1uvZ-rd8j7tajilPawdF3YtbPf1sRquQDD1-CwtH6K4kp861sT/s6000/Screw%20connector%20strip.%20use%20with%20ferrules%20to%20protect%20wire%20conductors%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDTzh7-IYoSD6rZwsQXE01fdjbxah30g6kb1brc4jhwETs8kxKFj4rR8ZWZkWYgdQ5-AABChIBzmwxDeNGrwVoA8zmN23xHCxeR5oq4v_nM7bfPNhotmwZNQ5bu6dm_E5tMzMLb1uvZ-rd8j7tajilPawdF3YtbPf1sRquQDD1-CwtH6K4kp861sT/w469-h312/Screw%20connector%20strip.%20use%20with%20ferrules%20to%20protect%20wire%20conductors%20.JPG" width="469" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screw connector strip. use with ferrules to protect wire conductors, a wide variety of sizes to fit most multi strand wire sizes, for wires the size of a few strands of hair up to something as big as your finger </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqkozaebcNtJVaK0PONcDjWPieie8K2hx0T-cXJdMyJbYDXHHftKctrAEVjK9QaXLITi_YTfLMFj18YIZl_xd3q_I-ERkKFkwfByOCXNyMsaGGONUf0C4hAEg-3wIW9BkgMrx0ATtdSxkq4ZziBBYkYMcFcc-aPjP17AVN9huRMfosnjYAA_cZ_QB/s6000/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Crimp%20on%20pin%20terminal%20and%20ferrule%20used%20to%20protect%20conductors%20in%20screw%20strip%20terminal.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqkozaebcNtJVaK0PONcDjWPieie8K2hx0T-cXJdMyJbYDXHHftKctrAEVjK9QaXLITi_YTfLMFj18YIZl_xd3q_I-ERkKFkwfByOCXNyMsaGGONUf0C4hAEg-3wIW9BkgMrx0ATtdSxkq4ZziBBYkYMcFcc-aPjP17AVN9huRMfosnjYAA_cZ_QB/w501-h333/Screw%20connector%20strips.%20Crimp%20on%20pin%20terminal%20and%20ferrule%20used%20to%20protect%20conductors%20in%20screw%20strip%20terminal.JPG" width="501" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screw connector strips. Example of crimp on pin terminal and ferrule used to protect conductors in screw strip terminal</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6xhWtLAA3XztDY6YQ4Rsr2Vq3JOcnucCjYZWe28k0WHXRbZNbAESRnFDPxwgdjvUbzwaQqGWcSfjX0PKip6D4bbEBV2DmkiyipMsNE727dJ93v46zm9gnrpI96Buy1GdcvMf9ugpAngliqdBbQ1hKwocqEWMr-_8xYyiqUq2dCrOWFzJ88cfxyv5a/s3513/Terminal%20Blocks.%20come%20in%20various%20sizes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3513" data-original-width="3297" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6xhWtLAA3XztDY6YQ4Rsr2Vq3JOcnucCjYZWe28k0WHXRbZNbAESRnFDPxwgdjvUbzwaQqGWcSfjX0PKip6D4bbEBV2DmkiyipMsNE727dJ93v46zm9gnrpI96Buy1GdcvMf9ugpAngliqdBbQ1hKwocqEWMr-_8xYyiqUq2dCrOWFzJ88cfxyv5a/s320/Terminal%20Blocks.%20come%20in%20various%20sizes.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various sized terminal blocks, when purchasing terminal blocks be aware of the maximum current the block can handle or you may find it melts when fully loaded. These terminal strips make better connections if used correctly and are less likely to work loose.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">While it’s easy to
say that terminals, terminal blocks and buss bars used on a boat must
always be copper, it may not be easy to achieve unless you source
your supplies from reputable businesses. Take along a magnet to check
terminals, terminal blocks and buss bars before purchase. If you
already have terminals in your spares you need to check them out, if
all else fails scrape off some of the tin coating and leave the
terminals on a tissue soaked with sea water for a week remembering
copper does not rust. While this may sound a bit strange the cheaper
terminals for the marine and auto market are sometimes not the best
quality, and many people have been duped into thinking they have a
bargain. So never use steel or aluminum, and like the wire, the
terminals, terminal blocks and buss bars should be tin-plated copper
to resist corrosion.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqoj4WcrnFQvPRBNLCXBn5e9xj8Ix1KdHxIREN_R9KOVFj2S-MWHYripntMyYYjYL_48z9IL9yAv1iwUPf6ojsEH83HqE0nSp12vYLSgA8BtGJITYb30_YXUOR-9rgq2oHOwuqyZXcbOUX9oLmLMcfqzJJR1ckFfdC65BRoKnuk2qMKCTJRuTiELi/s6000/Terminal%20Blocks.%20Fuse%20Block%20with%20ring%20terminals%20on%20wire%20ends%20for%20reliable%20connection.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqoj4WcrnFQvPRBNLCXBn5e9xj8Ix1KdHxIREN_R9KOVFj2S-MWHYripntMyYYjYL_48z9IL9yAv1iwUPf6ojsEH83HqE0nSp12vYLSgA8BtGJITYb30_YXUOR-9rgq2oHOwuqyZXcbOUX9oLmLMcfqzJJR1ckFfdC65BRoKnuk2qMKCTJRuTiELi/s320/Terminal%20Blocks.%20Fuse%20Block%20with%20ring%20terminals%20on%20wire%20ends%20for%20reliable%20connection.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terminal Blocks. Fuse Block with ring terminals on wire ends for reliable connection</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">You are likely to
come across an install where the equipment is supplied with wire
leads instead of terminals. A radio for example and having a terminal
block would not be convenient for the connection of power, external
speakers and perhaps GPS or AIS. Inline connectors let you connect
supply wires together easily, there are several sizes in the
insulated crimp range, and to aid servicing at a later date it could
be a good idea to make the connection with blade or bullet snap
connectors instead of the fixed inline connectors/cable joiners.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Here a few no no’s
unless it’s a get home type repair, never twist wires together to
make a connection, and never wrap a bare wire around a terminal, if
you must, put it under a washer and do the screw or nut up. While
three-way snap on connectors are useful for tapping into an existing
circuit, they are a quick way to introduce corrosion into perfectly
good wire. They rely on insulation displacement for contact, then in
doing so inevitably nick the tin plating off the conductor. Then the
design of the snap on connector will not supply enough of a water
block for the marine environment.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b>Extras</b></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Wire, terminals and bus bars can
corrode in the marine environment but the corrosion is accelerated
when the damp wiring is able to form an electrical circuit through
the fine layer of moisture. Care should be exercised and drip loops
put in place to minimize the water becoming a return path for the
electrical current.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"> One thing that is often forgotten
during installations is securing the cables. This is to guard against
chafe, vibration and in some cases heat and pinch points. What’s a
pinch point you ask?? It’s a point where due to some mechanical
movement, wire can be trapped in the mechanism or crushed when the
machine is in use. Well it could be a locker door a rudder stop an
auto pilot arm, cogs in the steering pedestal and so on. As a general
rule tying the cables to a secure point every three hundred
millimetres is very good and will certainly limit vibration induced
cable failure. This may be extended to a greater distance but I
wouldn’t go much past five hundred millimetres unless absolutely
and entirely necessary.
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">The wire run should start at a fuse
or circuit breaker. The fuse should be sized to protect the wire in
the run, this will be a larger size fuse than the appliance or unit
requires for protection. Install a fuse to protect the appliance at
the unit, this will help reduce the voltage drop and the heat in the
circuit breaker/fuse at the beginning of the wire run.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">If you must join wire with a crimp
connector in the middle of a run, install adhesive lined heat shrink
tube or wrap the lot up with self-amalgamating (self-sealing) rubber
tape to supply a layer of moisture protection. I have never found
liquid electrical insulation to be much good, it doesn’t give much
protection, and adhesive lined heat shrink is a good option. Really
on a boat to small of cost of adhesive lined shrink tube is worth
every additional cent and I now days I only buy the adhesive type.
Use rubber tape and shrink tube for a seal as good as the original
insulation if done correctly.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">What about the screw terminals in my
nav lights or other electrical units. The best thing to do is to use
a ferrule over the wires before inserting it into the hole under the
screw. To add some protection from the elements out there in the
weather I dip the ends of the wire into <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/02/grease-to-make-onboard-jobs-easier.html" target="_blank">high melt point silicone grease</a> (Molykote 111 or №4) before making the connection and
tightening up the screw. I also apply the same grease to the
electrical contacts on the bulb to reduce the chance of corrosion.
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">So to sum up
do the job right the first time and save yourself the grief of having
unreliable electrics and electronics. </p><p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><span style="font-size: large;">If you don't have the time or
money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time
and money to do it over again.</span></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br />
<br />
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br />
<br />
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br />
<br />
</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br />
<br />
</p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-27801765309360843492023-03-03T07:15:00.001+10:002023-03-14T13:50:58.337+10:00Checking the Gearbox Oil Level<p> </p><h3 style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span lang="en-AU" style="font-weight: normal;">After changing the oil I have always have problems sighting the level on the dip stick that is until I learnt this simple trick. I get a
piece of paper towel fold it until it will easily hold its shape. As
soon as I remove the dipstick from the gearbox I hold it flat onto
the paper towel and check the width of the mark made by the oil. I simply check this mark against the level mark on the stick when it first touches the paper. Previously I would have trouble checking the level and after pulling out the dip stick it was very hard to see the thin film on the stick. The longer it took the more likely the actual measurement would not be accurate. This method will work with both the automatic transmission fluid and mineral
oil based lubricants. </span></span></h3><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvL7bGwFpC-ErvEd1jy54qJi4ZELADM3oX4nhimwVenRpPpPJn8JhFfpfgdzZ6oc4BswXK0FNRhfp_vim29c7X-ELtqJbDep7R6yvK4srRDzdIkZIQkKpDaTbBUjiZX4zGe0t4kFSJU9txYIlYuEmbL4js9zhUE50mnU_awh-crSLlHZHZChqwYJhx/s5472/Gear%20oil%20dip%20stick.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvL7bGwFpC-ErvEd1jy54qJi4ZELADM3oX4nhimwVenRpPpPJn8JhFfpfgdzZ6oc4BswXK0FNRhfp_vim29c7X-ELtqJbDep7R6yvK4srRDzdIkZIQkKpDaTbBUjiZX4zGe0t4kFSJU9txYIlYuEmbL4js9zhUE50mnU_awh-crSLlHZHZChqwYJhx/w641-h428/Gear%20oil%20dip%20stick.JPG" width="641" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As can be seen here there will be some wicking of the lubricant into the paper towel, however when the stick first touches the paper a more accurate level can be observed.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="en-AU" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span lang="en-AU" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-60492614108496171102023-02-28T09:33:00.005+10:002023-02-28T10:15:27.554+10:00LED SOLAS Lifebuoy Light Repair<p><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-size: medium;">I have four of these lifebuoy lights that stopped operating properly. The correct operation is that they are in standby when stored upside down. Unfortunately over time all of these units started to malfunction, I would find them turned on and operating when in storage mode. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJNSyE3U1-eY6n7G28gBoiTeyOnBo6K4Ff-yuuLz5X3gveemFRySKvT1DzLquK92EwisTOEzTLzdiqXKpvKgGI7jf14Get8yKoQcqNZmmMjwL3eeSqBuq3DLwixeH6jbc1ka0OIF9PBAnZx4hYlij4t8EJoLAEiG0CURlKJnkSRCAOtVSuyyunVnRb" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="597" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJNSyE3U1-eY6n7G28gBoiTeyOnBo6K4Ff-yuuLz5X3gveemFRySKvT1DzLquK92EwisTOEzTLzdiqXKpvKgGI7jf14Get8yKoQcqNZmmMjwL3eeSqBuq3DLwixeH6jbc1ka0OIF9PBAnZx4hYlij4t8EJoLAEiG0CURlKJnkSRCAOtVSuyyunVnRb" width="240" /></a></div><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><p><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-size: large;">I was a little annoyed as they were past their limited warranty period and had a $59.95 replacement value each. I don't know about you but $240 to replace the four lights wasn't some thing to be sneezed at. Overall the performance and operation was ok, it was just the shutdown function was no longer working. </span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">I knew that I could get a spst tilt switch from the local electronics component shop for $3 each. I decided it wouldn't take much to modify the lights. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-family: inherit;">Tools and supplies: </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-family: inherit;"><div>Glass encapsulated 125V 3 amp AC.SPST, size 18mm(L) x 5.5mm (dia) Jaycar CAT NO SM1035</div><div>Soldering iron and solder (rosin core flux)</div><div>Heat shrink tubing and a hot gun or gas torch to shrink down the tube.</div><div>Clear acid free sealant </div><div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/02/grease-to-make-onboard-jobs-easier.html" target="_blank">111 silicone compound</a> (grease) for the o'ring seal at reassembly</div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="https://www.jaycar.com.au/spst-mercury-switch/p/SM1035" style="background-color: #f3f3f3;" target="_blank">Jaycar Tilt Switch</a></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;">Open the light, take out the battery and then carefully remove the lens from the plastic body.</span></div><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRspRloPDJh9TM-iq-uET0DDye3mk85-oT_IdUQMgNEE89-ZDpMxyGJ5zIodEYzwChbzu1ksOQ9ka30z_gpmEjOuk8fV-JVkH0AyAxv-g6pnEuR48ZQZkjVzt3Wt8bYkTm_ZkQNA7tE6HMOWgG5-6KJ2wbYo6U6gGx2dhWvP62q9To8wObGWcKVTB3/s4032/20230228_084939.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="557" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRspRloPDJh9TM-iq-uET0DDye3mk85-oT_IdUQMgNEE89-ZDpMxyGJ5zIodEYzwChbzu1ksOQ9ka30z_gpmEjOuk8fV-JVkH0AyAxv-g6pnEuR48ZQZkjVzt3Wt8bYkTm_ZkQNA7tE6HMOWgG5-6KJ2wbYo6U6gGx2dhWvP62q9To8wObGWcKVTB3/w417-h557/20230228_084939.jpg" width="417" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Lens removed from the body of the light, take it off slowly and carefully </span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjldrouhPqQ1xjBf1-H0IdE103DuvBJNVAGGgbMlLnHGm9G4kTdm2MF7sxfCdjxJpDRkdlr7pr8TEv08OdNygVg0cliv0oKhI77DBwypCPgUozxidHankygCt48sD-xerzs_G-sG0QiuUL2bLNRmgnMttUl-zIvkwiFOgQDwjnJbUewVFoNn-dg6Ls/s2992/20210728_095150.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2992" data-original-width="2992" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjldrouhPqQ1xjBf1-H0IdE103DuvBJNVAGGgbMlLnHGm9G4kTdm2MF7sxfCdjxJpDRkdlr7pr8TEv08OdNygVg0cliv0oKhI77DBwypCPgUozxidHankygCt48sD-xerzs_G-sG0QiuUL2bLNRmgnMttUl-zIvkwiFOgQDwjnJbUewVFoNn-dg6Ls/w440-h440/20210728_095150.jpg" width="440" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Disconnect the red connector, and carefully remove the wire from the board. I used the solder iron and applied some solder to the end of the wire where it comes through the board, when the solder is liquid pull the wire clear of the board. Using this method the hole should be left clear. <br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9OBe5UZbOSrWU4GEVLStPUgpCKxbhhYpnAUXrtLcujdD_6igMvYFFvuzYIa8Sm9D0sDKvQcoa_hB7Su-wV0LWLxb92t5ZoiUVJFnKukolG2-osOBhwZyE2tc_cffx6uPgDgL39DkYs7ULLhxBqzD_zNlRtnbHvfLC5JLTsBCKt-uThqkozkUwd1j/s2992/20210728_095337.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2992" data-original-width="2992" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9OBe5UZbOSrWU4GEVLStPUgpCKxbhhYpnAUXrtLcujdD_6igMvYFFvuzYIa8Sm9D0sDKvQcoa_hB7Su-wV0LWLxb92t5ZoiUVJFnKukolG2-osOBhwZyE2tc_cffx6uPgDgL39DkYs7ULLhxBqzD_zNlRtnbHvfLC5JLTsBCKt-uThqkozkUwd1j/w475-h475/20210728_095337.jpg" width="475" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">The red wire removed from the board, the tilt switch and shrink tube. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlRmq5becTNx07ENAnKqahilLR_QgS-J6FTJcoLuA81_0XUQrj_WAY7Nj0c3YXvx1Leyi_U_Ay0H-IAOFyr4Vq0D9igzjSLg0722acghL9DQuIHCFCtRq4yGzft7LRTIy0MNUU8YVW4GfiIHN7csIGJgx1kPmokOWKAef6KBW4vV2ldyCHzTsOj93/s2992/20210728_095615.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2992" data-original-width="2992" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlRmq5becTNx07ENAnKqahilLR_QgS-J6FTJcoLuA81_0XUQrj_WAY7Nj0c3YXvx1Leyi_U_Ay0H-IAOFyr4Vq0D9igzjSLg0722acghL9DQuIHCFCtRq4yGzft7LRTIy0MNUU8YVW4GfiIHN7csIGJgx1kPmokOWKAef6KBW4vV2ldyCHzTsOj93/w484-h484/20210728_095615.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Here I have bent the leg of the switch and doing a practice fit, once I was happy with the fit I removed the switch leg installed shrink tube and soldered it to the board. <br />If the hole on the board wasn't open after removing the red wire, during reassembly the solder can be reheated and the leg of the switch inserted in to molten solder and a small amount of rosin core solder used to wet out the join. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOCxYVqMWPqLWv9k9FlHCJhlqNxVKDT1LX9tMv1P3ArX1AUhAMgEvUDrKSV_tWGPdOWvWZ1CZ3mV-03Xey3EZDZJXiG96-0lGcTvdUIjasCGxXWaD1Egsm1lt5XKrgBtevzoQBxchUtorazDZF6iTK0qOHz7GEbu_Y2O6HG-2aUWkCqcVmnPuiWii/s4032/20230228_075918.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="501" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOCxYVqMWPqLWv9k9FlHCJhlqNxVKDT1LX9tMv1P3ArX1AUhAMgEvUDrKSV_tWGPdOWvWZ1CZ3mV-03Xey3EZDZJXiG96-0lGcTvdUIjasCGxXWaD1Egsm1lt5XKrgBtevzoQBxchUtorazDZF6iTK0qOHz7GEbu_Y2O6HG-2aUWkCqcVmnPuiWii/w376-h501/20230228_075918.jpg" width="376" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">As can be seen there the switch with shrink tube has been soldered to the board, the second leg of the switch has been soldered to the red wire and the join insulated with shrink tube. To hold the glass tube of the switch in place I used acid free sealant, a cable tie was used to remove stress from the solder joints. The battery is inserted and the unit tested, if ok once the sealant is set reassemble the lense and give a final test. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwt8SWSbU01jLjFIRTh55HvT5qIPUHeFdfS6LGINNnB9s6DDFAGrbyk7ZzlV2fU0VKIzAfJkBkGTnN4Y4i3lgrtTQC6rDwd2oDTbxlL8eVAhDAC3xHuG7y2YQ1NpnXTb1CJu4d6gRlXSOoWJWeU_L4Gll6wjclJgIxExI66iQbNCzTUUBlUI7AruR/s4032/20230228_080032.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwt8SWSbU01jLjFIRTh55HvT5qIPUHeFdfS6LGINNnB9s6DDFAGrbyk7ZzlV2fU0VKIzAfJkBkGTnN4Y4i3lgrtTQC6rDwd2oDTbxlL8eVAhDAC3xHuG7y2YQ1NpnXTb1CJu4d6gRlXSOoWJWeU_L4Gll6wjclJgIxExI66iQbNCzTUUBlUI7AruR/w369-h492/20230228_080032.jpg" width="369" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Lens attached and standing up right to test, battery installed.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKGn9d0_Gi3qnRJVvKXmuh8TF9ewVCkMYWp6IqoHJ8iYuZ5ln3P3qKYzOKPBlPby8TYW0pXhm-gw_UvRh4ruHYIZn61L1GpJkLp45TvECUXkWgzAq5fxMznQGsb8LnFtMjpwAsZn0xNc01QKEeO_bG8IswwIL34vnraXNx-oISCt4xamvBs3YQCsd/s4032/20230228_080102.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKGn9d0_Gi3qnRJVvKXmuh8TF9ewVCkMYWp6IqoHJ8iYuZ5ln3P3qKYzOKPBlPby8TYW0pXhm-gw_UvRh4ruHYIZn61L1GpJkLp45TvECUXkWgzAq5fxMznQGsb8LnFtMjpwAsZn0xNc01QKEeO_bG8IswwIL34vnraXNx-oISCt4xamvBs3YQCsd/w409-h546/20230228_080102.jpg" width="409" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">A few seconds later the unit is operational, then the big test by turning the light upside down, the new switch shut off power to the light. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span></div><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br />Mission accomplished, lights working and for $13 and an hour of my time, I saved what would have cost me over $240 to replace the lights. </span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; font-weight: 400;"><br /></span></div><h1 class="productCode" style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-image: initial; border-left-style: initial; border-right-style: initial; border-top-style: initial; border-width: 0px; line-height: 1; margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px 0px 0em; vertical-align: baseline;"></h1><div><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span></div></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-64372169332959423702023-02-27T13:21:00.005+10:002023-03-02T12:59:43.202+10:00Drawbacks of Using Satellite Imagery<p> A valuable tool</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Undoubtedly
satellite images are a fantastic useful tool for cruisers seeking
greater accuracy in navigation. For us, satellite imagery increases
the precision when we passage plan and allows us to explore remote
areas, which we have found is usually most places out of the major shipping lanes
and ports. We are able to find secure anchorages off the beaten
track and ultimately this augmented navigation presents safer
cruising. Now after using these satellite images/satellite photo
charts it would be hard to think of navigating to new destinations
without it. Practice makes perfect, and better forward planning and
safer route selection does have its rewards as we enjoy safer
navigation on our sailing adventures.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">1. Missing data</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">With most satellite
data providers all the major landmasses and their coasts are well
covered, however some are covered better than others. There are still
small islands, shallow reefs and dangerous rocks that are yet to be
covered or should that be uncovered in remote areas. Sea areas
without satellite imagery are coloured a hazy blue, AKA the Google
Cloak, this can be seen on all the Google Earth satellite photo ocean
areas. This has the potential to be misleading, do not assume this
hazy blue area is safe, deep water. Even if your charts were made
based on an old datum, look over your charts (paper or electronic)
for guidance, there may be small islands, reefs or obstacles that
have not yet been detailed in the satellite photos. Some of the time
small reefs or even islands can be seen on the satellite photo
cloaked area as an indentation, and requires investigation. Given
time, we hope more and more of these areas are covered, and the cloak
can be removed. While this sounds great remember the product name is
Earth and not Sea so submerged reefs in some areas will more than
likely never be shown.</p>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPVzvXtnkHbEt46DoxtpmJU3nQLvV_H-XNWlo8PwSWDx032YjelWK34w4FhgWZXjXeBJ1x0An4xU0SGVbqrscBoEUEuA3dZANvMhkm0WHN-7soDWJJNglzaWx_vSgXp0rrrBaPWZCgpEta7rhrL-Mn-UL_xMoDWwOwjAskxDftTpptDK3Uy34NABgI/s1049/Screenshot_20230104_041623.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="1049" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPVzvXtnkHbEt46DoxtpmJU3nQLvV_H-XNWlo8PwSWDx032YjelWK34w4FhgWZXjXeBJ1x0An4xU0SGVbqrscBoEUEuA3dZANvMhkm0WHN-7soDWJJNglzaWx_vSgXp0rrrBaPWZCgpEta7rhrL-Mn-UL_xMoDWwOwjAskxDftTpptDK3Uy34NABgI/w453-h282/Screenshot_20230104_041623.png" width="453" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cloak covering two small islands, the area selected here was to demonstrate the cloak and sometimes there are no clearance holes. Here the official chart of the area must have shown islands, and their charted location was uncloaked, however their position on the official chart would not be correct on a WGS84 datum chart hence the uncloaking missing the islands real position. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6piV-XahjeKW9GOzeyx4rq8jsJoLq-EAuXgT4V8WqGQkR1PGzsEWNxyvAmBZ5x-fI5CWGQ7JqwUZMNoSACQFZ55B7KtgaeJSBovRj2Mv_GRG0oA782zFQgulXT0ft417OnQZQCkSjZJnlLbXzlyH9MO81ZUrExazukFY3rfVNU_tYkOCIVqgkrxl/s1243/Screenshot_20230104_041858.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="1243" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6piV-XahjeKW9GOzeyx4rq8jsJoLq-EAuXgT4V8WqGQkR1PGzsEWNxyvAmBZ5x-fI5CWGQ7JqwUZMNoSACQFZ55B7KtgaeJSBovRj2Mv_GRG0oA782zFQgulXT0ft417OnQZQCkSjZJnlLbXzlyH9MO81ZUrExazukFY3rfVNU_tYkOCIVqgkrxl/w465-h240/Screenshot_20230104_041858.png" width="465" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another satellite image provider showing the islands un-cloaked, all providers have cloaked areas. It is worthwhile to check satellite photo providers to see if there are areas uncloaked that you will be travelling in. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">2. Image Clarity</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">This has to be one
of the biggest issues when trying to either passage plan or make
charts. Google Earth well for that matter most satellite photo
providers focus is providing satellite imagery for populated regions
and areas of interest, the number of updates made to the images is
based on this criteria. Blurred or cloud covered images do appear and
are not uncommon in the more remote areas especially in SE Asia,
sadly this makes them little or no use for navigation. One way we try
and overcome this is to use Google Earth, they retain historical
images and by using a time selection slide bar you can view older
images, these may provide better clarity. Another way is to use other
suppliers, Bing can some times fill in the blanks. We use SASplanet
and can select satellite photos from several different sources. That
said there are still times when we just cannot find a clear shot.
</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavr_otSREqGpuRM4hCxtMxonsTK71YIzrFvVp9fyOzHBzHGG7zX1yPYdb4qpjz_igRDQgMVqk6sbLVG-YSZ5m2sRmj07RF90iDfpY9QBqOi8pva85iP7LvPZ55lposcFbGhmRT5gxwBrJSdKf_jEuePzWMyydmvKPYjfgTIiBYRkpJx38BS1pASUN/s771/island%20bing.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="771" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavr_otSREqGpuRM4hCxtMxonsTK71YIzrFvVp9fyOzHBzHGG7zX1yPYdb4qpjz_igRDQgMVqk6sbLVG-YSZ5m2sRmj07RF90iDfpY9QBqOi8pva85iP7LvPZ55lposcFbGhmRT5gxwBrJSdKf_jEuePzWMyydmvKPYjfgTIiBYRkpJx38BS1pASUN/s320/island%20bing.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Island shown, this satellite photo provider had clear images even zoomed in to show the coast details.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJLKLD6meSMyUHkuLKAzv55-Y5IFhCMhoT5Gra4YeqSoOkfRkmrkQgu23R8ldRsFJpOlrZMM6LK4xuAV83YOiZDEpuxjrVh-MkO2Xqpx_JOAgcec2qENlfVVHFcnIkAe9FG7WFNC7MKzBt0OvM4ZbrpHkIxKOutQc_x1YNGolXVHj2DesBKrFANvE/s774/island%20google.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="774" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJLKLD6meSMyUHkuLKAzv55-Y5IFhCMhoT5Gra4YeqSoOkfRkmrkQgu23R8ldRsFJpOlrZMM6LK4xuAV83YOiZDEpuxjrVh-MkO2Xqpx_JOAgcec2qENlfVVHFcnIkAe9FG7WFNC7MKzBt0OvM4ZbrpHkIxKOutQc_x1YNGolXVHj2DesBKrFANvE/s320/island%20google.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same Island from another provider, even zooming in did not improve the detail needed to make use it useful for navigation.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPaZxVnFRG_AQX2QDhl_jwHdyQGAqUVUj-z8eyl8dnS5D5ynni8pCARuvPuK5Pk_QuotdVj8xUM7TJlm7GfhmhxEqYPivzG8OAPSDWmZpuP9ZeahBXCVvMWCHOQ7x384--u-TxexnZeJalL8vecWHBiuoBg5VYsF1aBT-zHhxR9ZuSPi3wnpAZyuup/s813/island%20nokia.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="813" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPaZxVnFRG_AQX2QDhl_jwHdyQGAqUVUj-z8eyl8dnS5D5ynni8pCARuvPuK5Pk_QuotdVj8xUM7TJlm7GfhmhxEqYPivzG8OAPSDWmZpuP9ZeahBXCVvMWCHOQ7x384--u-TxexnZeJalL8vecWHBiuoBg5VYsF1aBT-zHhxR9ZuSPi3wnpAZyuup/s320/island%20nokia.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same island again, the images spliced together however the photos one side of the island were very blurry or lacked detail.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhidU07NVE7UvPOKJ-YHoFGgLnROvTp4BjdZXA3aDuZNNHDxnB_50OFAxKZdvqI5gisLa4qqZQVOdVbEB-wCpcZJmkgWtIcqzsj_nqjhMgBgxNXB9m5XM9tjB6xzIXQuCqitDZFXPpApF2Fd40Oz0brN2r9IWxXSTTfUPRbAySWILedFI8oTQjrUoWn/s1153/google%20cloud%20cover.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="1153" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhidU07NVE7UvPOKJ-YHoFGgLnROvTp4BjdZXA3aDuZNNHDxnB_50OFAxKZdvqI5gisLa4qqZQVOdVbEB-wCpcZJmkgWtIcqzsj_nqjhMgBgxNXB9m5XM9tjB6xzIXQuCqitDZFXPpApF2Fd40Oz0brN2r9IWxXSTTfUPRbAySWILedFI8oTQjrUoWn/s320/google%20cloud%20cover.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All zoom levels of this remote island were obscured by cloud cover </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcypUscmKrTIbE5EVeVp9wbcu3_KGpz-3rkKQc-_MzSrwliRpPe4-zpowij6hd6yVnSi53ElM4k-70pxGSLPZy4Dynoy7pMTIkVodMP99Cc4CviOKpCUapTap2iOAQvD-XxvMJQYEK5J9CB-2OH5YHyrfioWZyngE_gZki4lgqxP_xi_-udsqOB4uD/s945/same%20patch%20but%20island%20showing.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="945" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcypUscmKrTIbE5EVeVp9wbcu3_KGpz-3rkKQc-_MzSrwliRpPe4-zpowij6hd6yVnSi53ElM4k-70pxGSLPZy4Dynoy7pMTIkVodMP99Cc4CviOKpCUapTap2iOAQvD-XxvMJQYEK5J9CB-2OH5YHyrfioWZyngE_gZki4lgqxP_xi_-udsqOB4uD/s320/same%20patch%20but%20island%20showing.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different sat photo provider showing the detail of the same island good even at low zoom levels. It certainly pays off to compare providers. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">3. Cached Data Size
Limit</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">One limitation
imposed by the Google Earth program is a 2GB cache limit, which means
it will fill your disk with up to 2GB of satellite imagery for use
when your offline. Once you fill the 2GB space it will then delete
the oldest or least used information to make space for the new
images. If you intend to travel into a remote area and have filled
the Cache with data you intend to use. At all costs keep your PC
offline, turn off the WiFi, this way there will not be new data to
overwrite the data in the cache. Its for this reason we also make
satellite photo charts when we are passage planning before
travelling. SASplanet also allows for cached data, and we like to
also plan out the passage as well should some thing happen to Google
Earth. With out doubt one function we do make good use of with
OpenCPN is the function to display google earth along side of the
chart. We get the depth data from the chart and the good visual from
the satellite photo real time. The only draw back to using Google
Earth for this is you require an older version of Google Earth to
allow it to be displayed in OpenCPN.
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0JH1JVli7uNKy1lNPNEWrWh_RfiFfBYpEJ9Pl8ugS0Oh4objhRekDMZ__9TGG1eWYIIC06Lqpum4kAb1xM95x5corqu9JZNRqgFFHNIqB6Uoyheke-tIGPtkh-79SzOBLQosfYWzfwyXVjc6Kggq-lSnXKIZ-3ZIUz9Z1iNOU2-sNC8VwCTBCpRU/s1366/Chong%20Ko%20Phra%20Thong%20-%20Northen%20entrance%20mark%20large%20fishing%20village.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="1366" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0JH1JVli7uNKy1lNPNEWrWh_RfiFfBYpEJ9Pl8ugS0Oh4objhRekDMZ__9TGG1eWYIIC06Lqpum4kAb1xM95x5corqu9JZNRqgFFHNIqB6Uoyheke-tIGPtkh-79SzOBLQosfYWzfwyXVjc6Kggq-lSnXKIZ-3ZIUz9Z1iNOU2-sNC8VwCTBCpRU/w627-h337/Chong%20Ko%20Phra%20Thong%20-%20Northen%20entrance%20mark%20large%20fishing%20village.JPG" width="627" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OpenCPN running the Google Earth plugin, the satellite photo to the left and we were able to check depth on the chart on the right. In this remote location we were running Google Earth from cache. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9x5cHk5w2vkyg-cUI3-3XVQSqWMu98ItHKaurx8BgqDepf6rEZ9XpvgEP6ybL5FIy5NQornuqkanIKmcV9eT5qPDzj-hU-nygm0rpjOcAx4HRY30qKkQCIgsZ_0dtq45zbAaSSqG9oNH45AFQ0VgMogY9DmnewoNfLgyV4tO6tOTuuxogT0OXU1K/s1366/Screenshot_20230106_010306.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="1366" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9x5cHk5w2vkyg-cUI3-3XVQSqWMu98ItHKaurx8BgqDepf6rEZ9XpvgEP6ybL5FIy5NQornuqkanIKmcV9eT5qPDzj-hU-nygm0rpjOcAx4HRY30qKkQCIgsZ_0dtq45zbAaSSqG9oNH45AFQ0VgMogY9DmnewoNfLgyV4tO6tOTuuxogT0OXU1K/w567-h297/Screenshot_20230106_010306.png" width="567" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google Earth cache selection page, you can try and change the cache size but it appears even though it allows different numbers to be entered it doesn't actually change the storage size past 2Gb</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">4. Location accuracy</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">While Google Earth
uses WGS84 datum for referencing, errors can occur. We have heard of
one cruiser who went to go through a passage in a reef in Wakatobi and when
lining it up, he noticed it wasn't as on the satellite chart. After they
were on the pick and back on line they started to compare their track to different
satellite photo providers and found that the Google Earth satellite
image was the only one out. (the channel in question did under go widening in 2016) Googles explanation was satellite images
are a composite of multiple distinct frames
which are then digitally combined and errors do occur. So we all need to be aware of
this potential issue, and depending on the image's age things can
change, channels re cut, bridges or jetties built or even whole islands can be
reclaimed. During passage planning we lay our route on different
satellite images as a secondary check. This is where SASplanet comes
into its own we can check other satellite photo providers quickly and
easily.
</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYFy7KqD4bwY64dtA3o7Vnt0iGio5yTuvxAl0jwJeNelupMf_Gcue6J_1NCG0vdjGS229glL1tGQi8QrmiJrh0cZQISll-ndKD7UxnARcPicnpBCKLYRwhRy7u1JSf5yL1W8ulQ7s2n0nBxJEbdbJTvo6AlgHwAyWKT9Xg11YczH5bFQwP_5K3Uke/s1112/through%20the%20reef%20pass.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="1112" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYFy7KqD4bwY64dtA3o7Vnt0iGio5yTuvxAl0jwJeNelupMf_Gcue6J_1NCG0vdjGS229glL1tGQi8QrmiJrh0cZQISll-ndKD7UxnARcPicnpBCKLYRwhRy7u1JSf5yL1W8ulQ7s2n0nBxJEbdbJTvo6AlgHwAyWKT9Xg11YczH5bFQwP_5K3Uke/w586-h333/through%20the%20reef%20pass.png" width="586" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The track shows that we went in over the reef, lined it up and off we went. As it was a clear day with the sun over head I know we were near mid passage. While this could be blamed on the satellite charts, it could easily be a combination of errors including some GPS error. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">5. Depth and other
data</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Good quality
satellite imagery can provide augmented accuracy out on the water.
The limitations start with not having soundings, or navigation aids found on marine charts. However used in conjunction with
marine charts these satellite image charts aid navigation and can
show underwater obstacles totally missed by previous hydrographic
surveys if there was one. While I have said the nav aids are missing from the
satellite photos, if you can obtain clear satellite photos, zooming
in can some times reveal the location of beacons, buoys, and
lighthouses. We have done this on several occasions, if the buoy or
beacon is on the chart we zoom in to see if its possible to get a
visual on the satellite photo. Or we make a satellite image chart and can switch between the two using OpenCPN.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ez5sArVCKYn2GwDw-5Jv-MLGvXk4DAlT36HfL-LOWCssbZLrH_ZACeveuy3ddqnRudXUq4LdGzA8xbTvUK87ILez0mTpmArVi63Jzc1MqeRuThj_wNeOfVfs4el-BP1f7htSySR8C4a5UbwSwT1qqMC4hEViMBUcoQYimAOUC-BpTd9xr1omo-zZ/s719/airlie%20entrance.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="719" height="548" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ez5sArVCKYn2GwDw-5Jv-MLGvXk4DAlT36HfL-LOWCssbZLrH_ZACeveuy3ddqnRudXUq4LdGzA8xbTvUK87ILez0mTpmArVi63Jzc1MqeRuThj_wNeOfVfs4el-BP1f7htSySR8C4a5UbwSwT1qqMC4hEViMBUcoQYimAOUC-BpTd9xr1omo-zZ/w599-h548/airlie%20entrance.png" width="599" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a good clear satellite photo its possible to check the beacon and navigation aid locations </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik39YLpUKJk-CmpCeWA3XHpXmdUl5q9eWABO9y7BF-0EG2DgO1JXJ1EARuUIq4MJFnL2OIwHvyPqqQik1-L2bNihU5JH0IU8gUH_km8rUQIQuqSuQ3lP5ZUImtMUs6MRu_d0i-_zFhpnGmNolO4HBpSUrUPvFVJqLFRBQ5M7X4T54b455G0-8hjDTV/s1210/airlie%20entrance%20nav.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="1210" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik39YLpUKJk-CmpCeWA3XHpXmdUl5q9eWABO9y7BF-0EG2DgO1JXJ1EARuUIq4MJFnL2OIwHvyPqqQik1-L2bNihU5JH0IU8gUH_km8rUQIQuqSuQ3lP5ZUImtMUs6MRu_d0i-_zFhpnGmNolO4HBpSUrUPvFVJqLFRBQ5M7X4T54b455G0-8hjDTV/w595-h326/airlie%20entrance%20nav.png" width="595" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The nav aid positions on both the chart and satellite chart can provide augmented accuracy.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">A RADAR overlay on
the chart plotter can certainly help you confirm your position and
can provide augmented accuracy. Where charting can be inaccurate, a
RADAR overlay helps you confirm your position, based on plans made
using satellite imagery, is right.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FdvorOUExZS5Y7TtPYwII--jbJO5M236l3iHKT30tIyzIyeXiAFNju_OW7YO7q4uZQWdLed0JTlvDzIXfLYkyrxd15bZo6zirGha_MorRkd0VIO4v0ku-tTb226aBmsQv-39yb1yhMzR_hdANGHlFj0-Jxe0noxIN02vk0dmz5fWok_rwr_GtfAh/s2732/Land%20travel%20chart%20made%20from%20official%20chart%20most%20likely%20of%20unknown%20datum.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1476" data-original-width="2732" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FdvorOUExZS5Y7TtPYwII--jbJO5M236l3iHKT30tIyzIyeXiAFNju_OW7YO7q4uZQWdLed0JTlvDzIXfLYkyrxd15bZo6zirGha_MorRkd0VIO4v0ku-tTb226aBmsQv-39yb1yhMzR_hdANGHlFj0-Jxe0noxIN02vk0dmz5fWok_rwr_GtfAh/w477-h258/Land%20travel%20chart%20made%20from%20official%20chart%20most%20likely%20of%20unknown%20datum.bmp" width="477" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While I haven't shown a RADAR overlay, with a chart this far out it would very quickly show things are not positioned as they should have been.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9FNYEct2pO8PpYSufziIjI3mD9bnbIffzf7xJTlCjYgCPO2GhtOuUBIMbklDjYxnnTx3WTza5f7Rlpwhpw8XHhRLHX5E7xDQd_mzg-TWrO6azqYf0Mh2zAZJrjzhGIR2DCs6U4iK5reEe7NrdBM_QXKHk9FIN4fDHTd9ySE5M8iAikp6tM1gi-eUW/s2732/Land%20Travel%20perhaps%20not.%20Satellite%20imagery%20referenced%20to%20WGS84%20part%20of%20the%20electronic%20chart%20can%20be%20seen%20above%20the%20satellite%20image%20.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1506" data-original-width="2732" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9FNYEct2pO8PpYSufziIjI3mD9bnbIffzf7xJTlCjYgCPO2GhtOuUBIMbklDjYxnnTx3WTza5f7Rlpwhpw8XHhRLHX5E7xDQd_mzg-TWrO6azqYf0Mh2zAZJrjzhGIR2DCs6U4iK5reEe7NrdBM_QXKHk9FIN4fDHTd9ySE5M8iAikp6tM1gi-eUW/w524-h288/Land%20Travel%20perhaps%20not.%20Satellite%20imagery%20referenced%20to%20WGS84%20part%20of%20the%20electronic%20chart%20can%20be%20seen%20above%20the%20satellite%20image%20.bmp" width="524" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The same coast line as above but the vessels are displayed on the satellite chart. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">When closing land we
pay particular attention to the RADAR overlaid on electronic charts,
to confirm our position and to see if the chart matches what is
really out there. We have experienced several instances where the
chart is out. It can be unnerving when your chart shows your route is
about to take you over a headland on the chart and we can breath a
sigh of relief when radar and satellite charts confirms you are not.
That user created satellite image chart or downloaded cache file was
worthwhile.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">We set depth alarms
to warn us when the depth starts to shoal, we also set up alerts on the GPS to warn of
upcoming hazards. It doesn’t take much to put in a waypoint and set
up alarm guard radius to let you know your in the area of a hazard.
At every watch change the person coming on watch checks the chart and
zooms in on the route to ensure no surprises await. As often as we can we find its always best to zoom in the chart plotter every twenty minutes,
the number of times we have heard people say we ran into an uncharted
‘whatever’ when in reality it was charted but not at the zoom
level they were using. However that's not always the case but always try and zoom in on the satellite charts when passage planning does certainly help.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">As we near our
destination we will look over the satellite images on the laptop to
familiarise ourselves with our destination. Keep in mind no tool is
totally incontestable, even RADAR can miss things or not provide a
clear picture, its only as good as its reflected target and we have
seen some nasty targets that don't reflect a thing. At the end of the
day, a look out (wearing good quality polaroid glasses) is still used more often than any other tool we have on
board.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/the-way-we-navigate-in-digital-age.html" target="_blank">Navigating in the Digital Age</a> a post on some of the tools we use aboard Matilda. </p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/one-mans-datum-is-another-mans-ship.html" target="_blank">One mans datum is another mans ship wreck</a> a quick discussion about chart datum</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-66440959617817260802023-02-26T18:03:00.006+10:002023-02-27T07:02:23.221+10:00Dangers With LED Lighting<p> <span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="color: #1c1d4c;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>LED lighting
found to interfere with VHF-FM radio and AIS reception</b></span></span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span><b>There
is potential for LED (light-emitting diode) lighting on vessels to
compromise reception on VHF frequencies.</b></span></span></span></p><p style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;"><span>Keep in mind the problems are more than likely not with the LEDs but the power supplies that run the lights. Some LED lights have power supplies externally or built in to the bulbs. While this is off the target </span><span>similar</span><span> problems can also be encountered with USB 3 equipment running on a laptop, navigation equipment including GPS reception can be affected and can be tested in a similar manner.</span></span></span></span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="border: none; display: inline-block; padding: 0cm;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">The
United States Coast Guard has sounded the alarm over the potential
for LED lighting on vessels to compromise
reception on VHF frequencies used for radiotelephone, Digital
Selective Calling (DSC) and Automatic Identification System (AIS).</span></span></span></span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">The
distance at which the LED lighting starts to have an impact and
whether the issue is limited to certain makes of lighting or
navigation equipment. The United States Coast Guard has asked the
United States marine industry to provide more detail of known
incidents.</span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">Due
to their energy-saving capability and longer service life, LED lights
are commonly used for navigation lighting, searchlights and
floodlights, as well as interior and exterior lighting—including
those used for visual effect.</span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">The
United States Coast Guard said that in one case, radio-frequency
interference caused by LED lighting created a hazard that led to a
serious safety incident.</span></p>
<p style="font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><i><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;">‘</span><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif" style="color: #333333;"><span>The
maritime rescue coordination centre in a United States port was
unable to contact a ship by VHF radio that was involved in a traffic
separation scheme incident. That ship also experienced very poor AIS
reception. Other ships have also experienced degradation of their VHF
receivers (including AIS), caused by their LED navigation lights. LED
lighting installed near VHF antennas has also been found to reduce
reception.’</span></span></span></i></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">Strong
radio interference from LED sources may not be immediately apparent
to marine radio users, but there is a way to test for LED
interference (see below).</span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times;">If
you have experienced LED-lighting interference on your vessel please
report it to your local marine authority, in Australia its AMSA.</span></p>
<p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="font-family: times;"><br />
</span></p>
<h2 class="western" style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="border: none; display: inline-block; padding: 0cm;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span><span style="color: #1c1d4c; font-family: times; font-size: small;"><b>How
to test for LED interference</b>.</span></span></span></span></h2>
<ol>
<li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">Turn
off your LED light.</span></span></span></p>
</li><li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">Tune
your VHF radio to a quiet channel, such as Channel 73.</span></span></span></p>
</li><li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">Adjust
your VHF radio’s squelch control until the radio outputs audio
noise.</span></span></span></p>
</li><li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">Re-adjust
the squelch control until the audio noise is quiet—just slightly
above the noise threshold.</span></span></span></p>
</li><li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">Turn
your LED light back on.</span></span></span></p>
</li><li><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.29cm; orphans: 2; widows: 2;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span face="Open Sans, sans-serif"><span style="font-family: times;">If
the radio starts crackling when you turn on the LED lights, it is
likely that the LED lights are affecting both your shipboard VHF
marine radio and AIS reception.</span></span></span></p>
</li></ol>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-80045718791168608632023-02-07T13:46:00.002+10:002023-02-13T09:50:55.889+10:00Grease to Make Onboard Jobs Easier<p> On board special use grease "Triple One" compound (111)</p>
<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">If there is one on
board grease that I have found to be helpful time and time again it
has to be triple one compound. I first got introduced to it when I
was working in the desert in the 80’s, at the time we would use it
for a multitude of jobs and due to the heat we needed some thing that
wouldn’t vanish and run off when the sun came up the next day.
Plumbing, assembly of o’ ring components, and fit ups of urethane
insulated wire components, and under the bonnet of the work trucks
for a variety of jobs. When my job took me offshore I would use this
grease again for a multitude of jobs and we went through tubes and
tubes of the stuff. We mostly used it to aid the door seals of
electrical housings and navigation buoy hatch seals, aiding the assembly of electronic component
housings, joining the high voltage cables that would ultimately be
towed behind the vessel at various depths. We even used it to help
the porthole rubber seals slide easily into place when we dogged them
down so they wouldn't leak. I have used it on modern yacht hatches where the acrylic hatches seal against a rubber seal. This allows the rubber to bed onto the acrylic and when the hatch is open it helps stop salt forming in the very fine coating of grease on both surfaces. </p>
<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><a name="_GoBack"></a>
Here is a compound to make boating life easier, it has a dozen or
more uses on board here are a few of them.
</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0snSBBx5OGChSf5rvdL98uW8HVNM2J9cy1Y4czVgwYz5PrbBDPwrEATfca7LbS4VOvPWb-7vkI0N1ht-wN8v552_TZPCQuWN9_hC8_iZV5QJb79qzJ9v8K8vS9tT3qY_lp6xIgFdv4RDk0skvezVS8Y1-J9BSHeMC405ank-Fm2A4IvX5c8ShF-Wp/s3358/DSC05734.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3358" data-original-width="3288" height="485" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0snSBBx5OGChSf5rvdL98uW8HVNM2J9cy1Y4czVgwYz5PrbBDPwrEATfca7LbS4VOvPWb-7vkI0N1ht-wN8v552_TZPCQuWN9_hC8_iZV5QJb79qzJ9v8K8vS9tT3qY_lp6xIgFdv4RDk0skvezVS8Y1-J9BSHeMC405ank-Fm2A4IvX5c8ShF-Wp/w475-h485/DSC05734.JPG" width="475" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great for a variety of assembly jobs and protection of important electrical components. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Triple one compound,
primarily it’s food grade silicone grease and can be used as a soft
sealant for shipboard equipment subject to washing and harsh
environmental exposure. It’s great as a chemical barrier coating
for electrical connections. Good resistance to most chemicals and has
a wide service temperature range -40° C to 200° C. It prevents
gaskets from sticking to metal and resists weathering and water
washout. It can be used as a sealant for vacuum and pressure systems
and is a lubricant for rubber and plastic O-rings, gaskets and seals
and due to the high melt point can be used on hot or cold systems.
It’s not a lubricant for metal to metal, so don’t use it on metal
threads unless you want galling.</p>
<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Use sparingly to
lubricate the nonmetallic components of the fresh and salt water
systems. When assembling taps, ball valves, replacing tap washers,
fiber washers and O-rings, works well for pump impellers, pistons,
gaskets, sea strainer assembly, importantly it’s great when
assembling toilet components because these are both a vacuum and
pressure system. Like lanolin it won’t attack rubber or synthetic
derivatives like petroleum based compounds can. Having trouble
sliding a hose on a barb, a little on the barb and the two should go
together easily.
</p>
<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">It’s great for
assembling electronic /electrical bits in a harsh shipboard
environment, to help control corrosion lightly coat the surfaces you
want protected. Use it on the seals when replacing the tops of
lifebuoy lights, strobes and waterproof torches as it resists
weathering and water washout. When assembling navigation lights the
grommets or glands can be troublesome, a wipe of grease and the job
becomes a lot easier to get the wire sliding into the gland or
grommet, improve the corrosion resistance of the wire by dipping the
stripped wire into the compound before assembly into the screw down
clamp this will keep the moist air out and slow the wicking of water
down the wire. A smear on the bulb base will help stop the corrosion
between the contacts and it will also help stop tracking between the
poles due to moisture, great for incandescent bulbs due to the high
melt point. Use it to lubricate port hole/hatch seals, the gaskets
are able to seal when the acrylic or frame doesn’t stick to the
seal. Use it on battery terminals and cable lugs like you would use
Vaseline, but due to a wide service temperature range it will keep
its shape and not melt away due to the heat from charging, or engine
room heat. If you have a screw to insert in a hard to reach place a
little dab on the screw head to hold that screw on the end of the
screwdriver (of course there are screw starters for this job but
this is a great stand by)
</p>
<p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;">Used as it is
supposed to be used, mainly making rubber and plastic components
slide together its worth its weight in gold. As a warning and speaking from experience keep in mind it is
not for metal threads, it will almost instantly bind stainless steel
screw threads together. My suggestion for stainless steel threaded
components is the use of lanolin grease or a metal component anti
seize</p><p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br /></p><p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2016/09/tef-gel-vs-duralac.html" target="_blank">A post detailing Tef - Gel Vs Duralac is here</a> </p><p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0.35cm;"><br /></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-24448129491349888362023-02-02T13:59:00.011+10:002023-02-13T10:23:45.552+10:00Our Tender Experiences <p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="background-color: white;">The best </span><span style="background-color: white;">tender</span><span style="background-color: white;"> for a </span><span style="background-color: white;">yacht</span><span style="background-color: white;"> has to fulfill a whole range of criteria and that will partly be dictated by </span><span style="background-color: white;">your</span><span style="background-color: white;"> own personal needs and experiences</span></span><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156;">.</span></p><p>There are so many different styles and shapes of tender on the market, some lend themselves to being work horses hauling the food supplies and beverages out to a yacht at anchor with ease. Then there are the show ponies, centre console and a large outboard. These are more suited to a quick run to the beach, most of the time they are heavy due to the configuration and dragging them up to the high water mark while ashore is likely to give you a hernia or heart attack whichever comes first. We have found due to the configuration its hard to do a resupply thanks to the lack of space, and these boats are not really suited to remote location cruising. It can be done of course by hiring a run about to bring out the supplies. Then there are of course the tenders that spend a second life as a fishing boat. We have found waterline length certainly makes a difference to speed, and while there are those who are fine with a small out board when venturing into remote areas, it could be a lot safer to have a bit of horse power under the hood so to speak. We have been in areas where the currents can run at 6-7 knots, so a bit of horse power is needed to get around. I also remember zooming over a large sandbar strewn bay near sunset to take photos before the light changed too much. If we were not able to get up on the plane then we would have missed the opportunity, of course we could have started our trip earlier but we would not have been back until well after the sun had set. These are the things to consider when purchasing a tender, we found the bigger the tubes the better, a bit of length certainly helps get on the plane, a flat floor or a floor added over a deep V floor is good and is a lot safer getting in and out of the tender when tied along side. </p><p>While its a difficult ask these days, a two stroke engine can be a useful addition to a cruising yacht when going offshore. This is our experience, we went off shore with a nice new four stroke engine and after a few short months of relying on it we were celebrating when we sold it and purchased a two stroke. Yes there will be a lot of people thinking we are environmental vandals, how ever our safety and the ability to head ashore and actually make it were high on our list of desirable things an outboard should be capable of. The only thing and this is the only plus is the four stroke fuel economy was good, unfortunately the four stroke wasn't reliable, it had a poor weight to HP ratio, and the ongoing repairs and need for maintenance was cutting into the cruising budget. So what was the problems, consistent condensation in the carburettor fuel bowl causing the engine to stop when a drop of water blocked the jet. In a two year period the rubber drive in the propeller(s) was replaced or the propeller replaced eighteen times (18). Changing the oil was a real pain in the neck due to design. The next safety issue was the slightest kick back when starting would smash the plastic pieces in the pullcord mechanism. Then to add to the grief of the pull cord becoming unoperational, the way the flywheel was cast did not lend itself to easily using an emergency start cord. The connector for the external tank would take a chunk out of the seal when plugging it on to the outboard, then after 2-3 connections the motor would suck air through the damaged seal. Then to add insult to injury if you didn't use the outboard for a week or fortnight the interior of the carburettor would start to corrode when the fuel evaporated. The white powder from the corrosion would then block the jet in the carburettor when you next start the motor. Yeah happy happy times! All that aside I hope some of the info collected here is of use. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gwZAap6Bghgee-T6mbnOO9SFrwhFgzRt05u2Ttv3sABkfv3Uh51MFdGB4GMs8dTWCgyW6IaBYSrPTnq5OLbUaT82_okTQaNQABFv3hOnMXw4x1lTb2aopDhxZzs6ElLKhtDpoIr-NOmpzUA4Di_vqyXXiQMwW9ySkYdVmKnqt3WnX4MiSg5OWcO-/s1368/broken.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1368" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gwZAap6Bghgee-T6mbnOO9SFrwhFgzRt05u2Ttv3sABkfv3Uh51MFdGB4GMs8dTWCgyW6IaBYSrPTnq5OLbUaT82_okTQaNQABFv3hOnMXw4x1lTb2aopDhxZzs6ElLKhtDpoIr-NOmpzUA4Di_vqyXXiQMwW9ySkYdVmKnqt3WnX4MiSg5OWcO-/s320/broken.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The smashed plastic parts in the pull starter, from a back kick when starting</td></tr></tbody></table><p>As we have become more knowledgeable through our own experiences we have also learnt from others. I would like to share some of what we have learnt about reducing the risks when using tenders. These little boats really are our connection to the outside world and hard working pack horses come resupply day. Unfortunately the risks are real and some have paid the ultimate price by not recognising the potential danger. </p><p>When we are sailing around our local bay enjoying the anchorages it’s a very rare occurrence to be there alone. In the bay most anchorages allow us to anchor close to the beach and it’s possible to easily row back to the boat or summon help from passing or anchored vessels. When we started exploring out side the bay we didn’t give a great deal of thought to how easy it would be to become like Robinson Crusoe using the tender to go ashore. </p><p>We found it’s not hard to become stranded in sight of your own vessel. In some cases it has been much worse for a few people. Since moving further afield, talking with others and after our own personal experiences we have been wakened out of our complacency. You know Complacency: a feeling of contentment, especially when coupled with an unawareness of danger. So what’s the danger? If you haven’t thought about it here are a few. </p><p>We have heard through the grapevine and read several stories about others experiences both good and bad; these have ranged from forced overnight stays on mosquito infested beaches to being washed away on a tide. What if the weather turns? and you are not able to return to your anchored vessel. Or you could become stranded if the motor fails and you’re against the tide or it’s too far or perhaps you are injured and are unable to row back. Those that have been washed away on the tide and have travelled for miles with no water and little protection from the elements, luckily in these cases they were found by passing ships but it was several days later. One couple we read about was almost washed from a mid ocean coral cay when their tender motor wasn’t powerful enough against the outgoing tidal flow. They found themselves standing barefoot on coral holding their tender to stop it from being washed away while waiting for the tide to turn. Then once the tide turned it allowed them to motor back to their vessel on the little remaining fuel they had. </p><p>One other danger that was highlighted during a recent incident was that a person using a tender fell over board. If being in the water wasn’t bad enough the real trouble began when they could not reboard their tender from the water. It is a worthwhile experiment to test your tender has sufficient stable buoyancy to accommodate a person being able to climb back on board from the water. I know that with some inflatable’s even moderately unfit persons can reboard over the stern using the outboard as a step, if the out board is fitted with a wing. Unfortunately this may not be possible for all combinations of motor and tender. What if you cannot reboard your tender from the water? It is certainly in your best interests to look at ways to make it possible to get back on board. This is especially important if you are in the higher latitudes, hypothermia will quickly set in once you’re in the water and make it almost impossible to swim back to shore or climb up on to the main vessel. While there are ever growing lists of problems people find themselves in, I think this small cross section should have given you an idea of the multitude of perils if you ignore the hazards. Since writing this we <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/make-folding-ladder.html" target="_blank">made a fold up ladder </a> to keep in the tender just in case we or someone else fall overboard. </p><p>We now carry additional gear in our tender as well as a safety box so we can summon help or do minor repairs should they be necessary. However the safety box is only good if you take it with you. We didn’t once and when we had finished our walk and swim at the beach we couldn’t get the motor back down. Luckily we were able to flag down a passing fisherman. Incredibly he didn’t have any tools on board but was kind enough to run us to our vessel and back with the tools for the repair. I have listed the contents of our tender safety box and what we carry in our tender. While the lists may look excessive it’s a matter of adjusting it to suit the situation. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAvW74t1KDhLbVE95I5jFxdmDerFpOtfg1mh62omY5zMyQnKgwuKgs4BDQQOUH5UsdZm9Wh-V1MQd5DW_p8KQeF6kYlYTjB-m_JuxR4yqhaRF89-0p_ULAMIKMKa8ReHXnJ4NNjALUwZCqiPfFT0WR8rdr6lj4TXGXSkITfEorbebP1oWpE1PRLD9/s5472/Tender%20Safety%20Box%20and%20Contents.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAvW74t1KDhLbVE95I5jFxdmDerFpOtfg1mh62omY5zMyQnKgwuKgs4BDQQOUH5UsdZm9Wh-V1MQd5DW_p8KQeF6kYlYTjB-m_JuxR4yqhaRF89-0p_ULAMIKMKa8ReHXnJ4NNjALUwZCqiPfFT0WR8rdr6lj4TXGXSkITfEorbebP1oWpE1PRLD9/w553-h368/Tender%20Safety%20Box%20and%20Contents.JPG" width="553" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tender safety box and the contents of what we carry. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Our safety box is a medium size commercially available water resistant box. Into the box we put our outboard spares and these include dewatering fluid, start rope, shear pins, split pins, stainless plier, adjustable spanner, spark plugs, screw driver, propeller and the spanners to change them. We do carry a spare propeller as we have had more than experience where the rubber drive sheared and we lost or had reduced drive. While it appears to be a bit of an over kill by the manufacturer to have a shear pin and rubber drive fitted to the propeller to protect the gearbox. In our experiences the rubber protects the shear pin. We also have room for a V sheet, knife, a couple of flares, handheld VHF, a whistle, torch, small first aid kit, water, sunscreen, insect repellent. Someone said to add some waterproof matches to the list in case you need to light a fire on the beach, it’s a good idea and they take up next to no room. We have the basic tools to undertake minor motor repairs, and these have come in handy on a number of occasions. While carrying out the repair we were able to protect our selves with the basics like sunscreen and insect repellent. Having a drink of water didn’t go astray on those warm days either. While I hope we never need to use them we do have the basic signalling equipment to summon help or aid a rescue for ourselves or render assistance to some one else.</p><p>Don’t be tempted to use the V sheet as shelter from the rain if you do not need help. I heard of a case recently where a couple of guys out fishing put their girlfriends under the V sheet to keep the light rain off, a passing aircraft saw the V sheet and alerted the authorities, who arrived to find the embarrassed fishermen and girlfriends. However in situations where you require help use the V Sheet as protection while you are waiting for help to arrive. If we were going to the outer reef or find a remote anchorage empty I would also pack the vessels EPIRB in case we run into trouble. Trouble need not necessarily be related to the tender but could be a medical emergency, for example if one of the crew falls and injures themselves while ashore. The uninjured party may not be able to move the injured crew into the tender or for that matter get them from the tender back on to the main vessel. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQ4FWnYUsEzaAjfN8GIW1lUbDBvUogArIyuUpsyb3LeeKdMVFybPRWuFVxVaXsxsV2zUtx-4pZUZhLKBdxZ7CIZeXS7XAd-T-GOGLxVi6HhhRBFsf711fOL89u0fjVHmYd8XkJWCnYjigSy2nUnm08oYidAePBckqianpd_DI1-biiKMbYDOHoAlq/s5472/Carburettor%20and%20Small%20Motor%20Tool%20Kit%20Stored%20Under%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQ4FWnYUsEzaAjfN8GIW1lUbDBvUogArIyuUpsyb3LeeKdMVFybPRWuFVxVaXsxsV2zUtx-4pZUZhLKBdxZ7CIZeXS7XAd-T-GOGLxVi6HhhRBFsf711fOL89u0fjVHmYd8XkJWCnYjigSy2nUnm08oYidAePBckqianpd_DI1-biiKMbYDOHoAlq/w569-h379/Carburettor%20and%20Small%20Motor%20Tool%20Kit%20Stored%20Under%20.JPG" width="569" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While hard to see in the dark green pouch the small repair tool kit tucked away in under the cowl of the motor. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dyV_b5IeKDWFGwQG0LAHcQ1USAEu4IcS4rmv-sPAvy_cFLYBVUS_-unOb04wRvPbyqeVJ-1QIrbIYmkl95rsAVYoHJs8NjqdysEmmqXEyTF39c9WNZzV3JMwJFwmc1ranoJ3cnXWjgh9zhGNPeZOgSfPEe5Le4rXZjrPnu-cyHYhlEYVeXvfSWHB/s5472/Motor%20Tool%20Kit.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5dyV_b5IeKDWFGwQG0LAHcQ1USAEu4IcS4rmv-sPAvy_cFLYBVUS_-unOb04wRvPbyqeVJ-1QIrbIYmkl95rsAVYoHJs8NjqdysEmmqXEyTF39c9WNZzV3JMwJFwmc1ranoJ3cnXWjgh9zhGNPeZOgSfPEe5Le4rXZjrPnu-cyHYhlEYVeXvfSWHB/w428-h285/Motor%20Tool%20Kit.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small tool kit supplied with the motor, we store ours under the cowl of the motor, better there when needed than on the boat rusting away in one of the lockers. While there is an emergency start cord you have to remove the pull start mechanism to use the cord, just keeping the cord on board the tender isn't enough</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihY_v4ozEGT3Ft265XHoBuAZ_6TpOiT3QIWIHMab33HniG0XYRjkVh40wuFEVmCzF2tEUnDSWTDQAjmkSwaoAcn3UrkVPxBXOWqLKMS57WuvW3__khl5LXepeP1jydK6s5xE2Tt6Rz4awkGz3vqwf6JlHn5KPLOwrvEY_oCVW9fS8D8WgDpVKYRX0w/s5472/Anchor%20Storage.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihY_v4ozEGT3Ft265XHoBuAZ_6TpOiT3QIWIHMab33HniG0XYRjkVh40wuFEVmCzF2tEUnDSWTDQAjmkSwaoAcn3UrkVPxBXOWqLKMS57WuvW3__khl5LXepeP1jydK6s5xE2Tt6Rz4awkGz3vqwf6JlHn5KPLOwrvEY_oCVW9fS8D8WgDpVKYRX0w/w481-h320/Anchor%20Storage.JPG" width="481" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tender anchor chain and rode connected and ready to deploy, we keep ours in a bucket so if we don't get all the mud or sand off it doesnt coat the floor of the tender. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyFynrBVYHLePbNEqXHE4XHRBVEpDTh1U7kvow_WxzT10VJ91AGErSjbxjDAV5Kv2CSUKVI8EwS04Va9N6eh4pNXDeaCFYyvsnRf2ypjLGaG5pc594B0QWblyBMXwBWtBrCWc2mujHW3wZGeCsHWo7BD6K1h0eZ21wQS9jKcuusdchK1E24WFsk9m/s5472/Lock%20and%20Cable.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyFynrBVYHLePbNEqXHE4XHRBVEpDTh1U7kvow_WxzT10VJ91AGErSjbxjDAV5Kv2CSUKVI8EwS04Va9N6eh4pNXDeaCFYyvsnRf2ypjLGaG5pc594B0QWblyBMXwBWtBrCWc2mujHW3wZGeCsHWo7BD6K1h0eZ21wQS9jKcuusdchK1E24WFsk9m/w565-h376/Lock%20and%20Cable.JPG" width="565" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stainless steel cable fitted with a plastic hose to stop chafe should it rub against the tender tubes while in use. We like a large combination lock so we don't need to worry about losing the key.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The additional gear we carry in the tender is, shoes, anchor, oars/paddles and bailer. The bits and pieces we keep in the tender are all secured on lanyards in case the worst happens and the tender capsizes. PFD’s can be secured into the tender with a stainless steel cable and padlock when you tie up at the dock while going ashore. Our anchor is rigged for use at a moments notice should it be needed to hold position. We keep shoes in the tender so we can wear them while stepping ashore. It’s better to find there are things on the beach that could slice your bare feet apart while you’re wearing shoes or sandals than if you weren’t. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPvhwJCGRwvAvAo90bVHJAkM_S-1R9nK6fiaPn63ty7aOMzcOes0hqk8ozVRvj4wwuK_O-URsJNzAggshYxxIh4b_pLnPX3ywPZEWJgq96m48DmHOPh5GR94Yh1JISt_YiMnp8nLmQaf4k3v0k74sRYdVu7foQJDFXCO2-nvOHBT6fAB-8ItN1uhN/s5471/Under%20Seat%20Storage%20canister%20made%20from%20storm%20water%20pipe%20and%20fittings.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3151" data-original-width="5471" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPvhwJCGRwvAvAo90bVHJAkM_S-1R9nK6fiaPn63ty7aOMzcOes0hqk8ozVRvj4wwuK_O-URsJNzAggshYxxIh4b_pLnPX3ywPZEWJgq96m48DmHOPh5GR94Yh1JISt_YiMnp8nLmQaf4k3v0k74sRYdVu7foQJDFXCO2-nvOHBT6fAB-8ItN1uhN/s320/Under%20Seat%20Storage%20canister%20made%20from%20storm%20water%20pipe%20and%20fittings.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Additional water proof storage attached under the seat</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-blByIGKu5INwINyGkiCU4YnVbrX9Nqw5FbMs3IQ5l604OJkRwzpl4ZaeCmbVMPjNwrx6-RMFhTbwW_sVxsj-orCFbi77EPlTaTpX7QB8pNoojVRddwWelNjytvauiyNID-uELjwaNRpGVqYgNEV_M4xSwfMdhF7tDYnpWQW5KtYDNBLI6sXwWMNg/s5472/Under%20Seat%20Storage%20made%20from%20storm%20water%20pipe%20and%20fittings.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-blByIGKu5INwINyGkiCU4YnVbrX9Nqw5FbMs3IQ5l604OJkRwzpl4ZaeCmbVMPjNwrx6-RMFhTbwW_sVxsj-orCFbi77EPlTaTpX7QB8pNoojVRddwWelNjytvauiyNID-uELjwaNRpGVqYgNEV_M4xSwfMdhF7tDYnpWQW5KtYDNBLI6sXwWMNg/s320/Under%20Seat%20Storage%20made%20from%20storm%20water%20pipe%20and%20fittings.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Made from cheap easily available storm water plumbing pipe and glue. Sewerage pipe will also work but is more expensive and slightly heavier gauge wall thickness.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>To prolong your outboard motors life it’s a good idea to carry out monthly checks and engage in some proactive maintenance. Firstly buy or make a cover for the motor and fuel tank, keeping the sun and weather off can certainly extend the life of exposed components. A plastic fuel tank left exposed to the weather has a very limited life before it will become brittle and capable of splitting from internal pressure if the vent is closed. It’s worthwhile to get a small grease gun and marine grade grease and identify grease points and squeeze in fresh grease regularly. Learn how to check the gearbox oil level and condition. It doesn’t take long to give the outboard ten or fifteen minutes of your time once a month to do some preventative maintenance. I also try to flush the motor with fresh water after use, that’s not every day if using it daily but before storage for a week or more. It’s not always possible to do a fresh water flush when the water tanks are getting low, however if you have sufficient fresh water it is well worth the effort. When you can spare ten to fifteen litres of water, small motors can be held and run in a bucket but with larger motors you will not need much more water but a little ingenuity and mechanical help may be needed. I have seen a larger size bucket filled with water held in place with the motor lifting davit and clever cruisers have made electric camping showers connect to the flush port or ear muffs and use a bag to collect and recycle the water. I think it’s a case of finding an easy way to do an engine flush on your vessel and use it before storage. </p><p>Check over your inflatable tubes for nicks and scratches, again buy or have a cover made if you can afford it, the UV damage starts the moment its outside. While we didn’t understand the significance at the time, our inflatable was slowly being destroyed by the sun and was wearing away. The signs were a white/grey stain on our pants after sitting on the tubes, as it turns out this was the UV damaged layer coming off. The damage was happening for several years; eventually the outer cover was worn away and was almost down to the fabric. We didn’t really notice the wear until we had to replace a patch and found the height difference between the area under the patch and the surrounding area was very noticeable. On closer inspection of the tubes we saw just how thin the outer cover had become. </p><p>Other things to look at are if you have a tender with an inflatable floor it’s possible to get a build-up of sand and grit under the floor and over time this will damage the fabric. I have seen the inflatable tube under the floor cut to pieces after the boat was used to collect shells. Broken shell fragments worked their way under the floor boards and in no time the damage was done. The space between the hull and tubes of a RIB can also do with a clean out once a season or more depending on how you use your boat. Let down the tubes slightly and with a hose, spray in between hulls and tubes to clear out any sand and grit then reinflate the tubes. </p><p><b>Tender Checklist </b></p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Motor monthly between services </b></div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Remove the outboard motor cowl and inspect starter rope, spark plug wires and the fuel lines for wear, cracks, splits or tears also visually check the fuel filter for any signs of water and clogging. •<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check for salt water or oil weeping at gaskets</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check Gear box oil</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check propeller shaft and seal for fishing line (remove propeller)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Grease as per manufactures instructions</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Lightly spray power head with protective coating (dewatering fluid/anti –corrosion, lanoline or inox) </div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Hull monthly</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check inflation level of tubes</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Clean sand coral and or shell fragments from inside, RIBs between hull and tubes</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check over hull & tubes for chafe, scratches and corrosion (repair chafe using patches, if hull is aluminium touch-up paint might be necessary on scratches to minimize corrosion</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Check paddles / oars & rowlocks for UV damage</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Before use check:</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fuel tank – full</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>No fuel leaks</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kill switch – MOB lanyard connected</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Start the motor and check that it spurts water</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Safety strap attaching outboard to tender (to keep motor on if the clamps work loose)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If an inflatable, ensure it’s properly inflated</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Anchor</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bailer</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Paddles / Oars & Rowlocks</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Long painter - for towing, tying it to a dock.</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cable with marine padlock – for locking to jetty when leaving it unattended</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Shoes</div><div style="text-align: left;">• <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>PFD’s</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Safety equipment in water resistant box or bag, V sheet, knife, signal mirror, 1 orange smoke, 1 red flare, handheld VHF, whistle, torch/strobe, small first aid kit, water, sunscreen, insect repellent, water proof matches. Outboard spares: dewatering fluid, shear pins, split pins, multipurpose plier & adjustable spanner, sparkplugs and spanner, screwdriver, propeller, MOB lanyard, secured with padlock & cable.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>After use:</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Close fuel tank vent and cock on fuel tank.</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>When the motor cools refuel, helps stop condensation in fuel tank. </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Flush and rinse/wash motor with fresh water to minimize corrosion.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>If the outboard motor won't start:</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kill switch – MOB motor stop lanyard not plugged in?</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gear shift in wrong position? (Shift into neutral) </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Choke in wrong position? </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Throttle in wrong position? (Too far open or not open at all, experiment)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Perhaps flooded? if flooded unclip fuel hose or turn fuel off, open throttle and pull cord until motor starts then reconnect fuel hose and try to start (possibly no need for choke now)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fuel: Check fuel level? Is Fuel tank cap vent open? Is fuel tap on?</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fuel supply line connection loose or is hose kinked? Fuel line bulb should get hard when squeezed</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Is there water in the fuel? Check fuel filter next</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Clogged fuel filter? Visually inspect filter, remove and flick contents into a dry bucket for inspection </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fuel not primed? With engine cowl open see if fuel moves in filter when bulb is squeezed</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pull fuel line from carburettor, crank motor to see if fuel flows evenly (catch fuel in can)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Clogged / water in carburettor? Not easy to check unless experienced </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Got spark? Not easy to check and dangerous unless experienced </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dirty spark plug? (When changing spark plugs check for correct gap) </div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Damp ignition components (spray high tension leads & ignition wires with dewatering fluid)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>No compression? (Loose spark plugs, broken or jammed reed valve, previously over heated)</div><div style="text-align: left;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pull cord not turning over motor, problem with recoil spring. Use spare start cord, check operation manual</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Tender outboards are usually simple small engines and thankfully have not gone the way of their larger brothers with complex computer controlled engine management systems and fuel injection or specialist carburetion. The reason a tender outboard motor will not start is usually not a complex problem. While having said that, it’s probably not the time to check out the motor when it’s on the tender tied off behind the vessel. Get the engine on to a stable level work area on the main vessel. This is a better place to work and a dropped tool will hopefully mean it’s not lost forever into the large blue tool box. </div><p>If you don’t know what you’re looking at have some one skilled in engine repair go over some of the basics with you. Work safely; it can be dangerous when checking for spark on an outboard that will not start. Get to know and understand the safety aspects of dealing with high voltage and sparks around highly flammable fuel. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVM1RdoBILoLDbERPlEecSXymuPMZr_reXvjxTx5-JiehG9vldWj5ZFOdPHewEK1fP9uetZn3qHsrAcJg4QlQ3tzwLHj7uMhFkrg90_CzaWnpZmbhHVB5XPvaKd1x05IsW2Fp6zMO36o-Ey9N1MYTPOcm32pLuYnfZLp4Mu6c8XRUfT6ux_FyMTPj/s5472/Carburetor%20Drain%20Screw%20Blue%20Paint%20Dot.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVM1RdoBILoLDbERPlEecSXymuPMZr_reXvjxTx5-JiehG9vldWj5ZFOdPHewEK1fP9uetZn3qHsrAcJg4QlQ3tzwLHj7uMhFkrg90_CzaWnpZmbhHVB5XPvaKd1x05IsW2Fp6zMO36o-Ey9N1MYTPOcm32pLuYnfZLp4Mu6c8XRUfT6ux_FyMTPj/w587-h391/Carburetor%20Drain%20Screw%20Blue%20Paint%20Dot.JPG" width="587" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carburettor, the drain screw is easy to see, the use of the screw does not guarantee any contaminates will drain out of the bowl </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg996fC_w7htPWH9Tc8CrTzU6tPlpukG1rTMz31xK7cow01kKTUBHWbSDABIYWZFG6TfVyFX4a9TVjMIl1ividEiQJHXpAjhlPIWLm2zAi9uU3gH_Y8WnVikfSkGTSIdDj5fLEfeo5wuvBZMqcjs0VxbXl4h2nZcJxa1euOSKxLxMZPCUNo1cx746dd/s5472/Easy%20Fuel%20Inspection_inline%20fuel%20filter%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg996fC_w7htPWH9Tc8CrTzU6tPlpukG1rTMz31xK7cow01kKTUBHWbSDABIYWZFG6TfVyFX4a9TVjMIl1ividEiQJHXpAjhlPIWLm2zAi9uU3gH_Y8WnVikfSkGTSIdDj5fLEfeo5wuvBZMqcjs0VxbXl4h2nZcJxa1euOSKxLxMZPCUNo1cx746dd/w521-h346/Easy%20Fuel%20Inspection_inline%20fuel%20filter%20.JPG" width="521" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After market fuel filter fitted to the fuel tank hose, this clear filter housing can give an instant up to date visual of the state of fuel in the tank and hose.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOsZhprwGXraYmBst7CN4hE9VP0K1Xcz0R9qWW7eksygc6Sk58MaB_2D_-Cfx0wUHCuDbOhhbe6MF5HmkQdbBtkoAVLZTzwC-mCkSGDcyslXGYtmosuPur19YM-Isxxfovlr2eVjRIO-H2HvBO7ScsxuLhEkYzLcLVrWAbpNpzbjEv0A-xVMSikPq/s5472/Under%20Cowl%20Fuel%20Filter%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOsZhprwGXraYmBst7CN4hE9VP0K1Xcz0R9qWW7eksygc6Sk58MaB_2D_-Cfx0wUHCuDbOhhbe6MF5HmkQdbBtkoAVLZTzwC-mCkSGDcyslXGYtmosuPur19YM-Isxxfovlr2eVjRIO-H2HvBO7ScsxuLhEkYzLcLVrWAbpNpzbjEv0A-xVMSikPq/w589-h392/Under%20Cowl%20Fuel%20Filter%20.JPG" width="589" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standard equipment fuel filter under the motor cowl, some only filter out large particles </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_c0IGtdoqMRMzyO7f-fLeoRjcsL0XPMx_yK_yHz5csDaUNUnw2WU4lY_-3ZnFUrJK93z4V8Ru-DhKqdPJ3U6MRlZOOaGaAZaGFhToURxQMqy2B2GWfLxkIrCPjUTHucvY7kIySxH-4smlXiVf3AU5pkiVUcXB1RH1uBcYwS81v7_G87OPHY0YcAf/s5472/water%20bead%20in%20the%20carburetor%20fuel%20bowl%20looks%20like%20this%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_c0IGtdoqMRMzyO7f-fLeoRjcsL0XPMx_yK_yHz5csDaUNUnw2WU4lY_-3ZnFUrJK93z4V8Ru-DhKqdPJ3U6MRlZOOaGaAZaGFhToURxQMqy2B2GWfLxkIrCPjUTHucvY7kIySxH-4smlXiVf3AU5pkiVUcXB1RH1uBcYwS81v7_G87OPHY0YcAf/w581-h387/water%20bead%20in%20the%20carburetor%20fuel%20bowl%20looks%20like%20this%20.JPG" width="581" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water droplet in the carburetor fuel bowl, this was big enough to cause problems and was a common occurrence with our old four stroke.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>To reduce the build up we would use fuel doctor in the fuel every fill, this reduced the on going problem. I believe the water is combined into the fuel doctor and can then pass through the jets and be burnt. I think this condensation build up of a water droplet was cumulative so passing it continually as it formed made it easy to deal with.<p>Checking the fuel system isn’t complicated once you know the lay out; but work carefully and don’t spill fuel. Most problems we have encountered are from water in the fuel or a clogged filter. If you remove the fuel filter flick the contents of the filter into a container, this will let you see the contents of the filter. Water will ball up in beads in the fuel and any debris will also be visible. Don’t just blow the filter out as this will not give you any idea of what’s causing flow problems. If you suspect water in the fuel and find small amounts in the filter, remove the fuel bowl off the carburettor and clean and dry it out before reassembly. Water in the fuel may also mean the whole system needs to be cleaned out, draining the fuel tank and lines then refilling with fresh fuel. </p><p>We had an ongoing problem with water in the carburettor bowl, once enough built up the motor would break down until we cleaned the carburettor bowl. How does water get into the fuel? In our experience it could from the vent on the tank cap. If your not transporting the motor in a vehicle you could leave the vent open. Rain showers or spray during rough weather could be enough to find a way into the tank. </p><p>As a visual check we installed a pre filter inserted in the main fuel line, water was going to be easy to see in the large filter housing, we didn't see any. </p><p>As it turned out this problem with water in the fuel wasn't from the fuel tank, the best explanation we can come up with is the water in our carburettor was from condensation in the bowl itself. After a intensive search for the cause we eliminated the fuel tank lines and filters, spent a lot of time and money chasing this particular problem. We never had the problem with our previous out board, we had the problem with the four stroke and then no longer had the problem once we sold on the four stroke, used the same fuel tank lines and filter on the new engine and all was good. </p><p>Unleaded fuel containing ethanol should not be used in outboard motors as it has been found that the ethanol can separate from the base fuel if left to sit for a while. Most fuel supply outlets now have instructions on the fuel pumps notifying customers not to use unleaded fuel containing ethanol in boats. </p><p>Make sure your two stroke outboard is running the correct oil fuel mixture (motor manufactures recommendation); there is nothing to be gained by using extra oil in the fuel, if there is too much oil in the fuel the motor will not perform as it should and can run lean as the oil replaces the fuel in the mixture and running lean can increase maintenance costs. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS5YdS3nLYyXeDuazavbc7GjFUP-XAvv0IGV_n24aNHNU224O_cmVxGlza2FXfSps9ykhFoVdDdGzwq3Sd-2ggYLpZfoym1deAs_4Lk84b5skbpfrEAzMa-G0ycKuc8dGsdPJuFa6w56K_Zr8_-1WyxozLWZkhMrcHmpejti5atbimJaoVKdIZjCA5/s5472/MOB%20Stop%20Lanyard.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS5YdS3nLYyXeDuazavbc7GjFUP-XAvv0IGV_n24aNHNU224O_cmVxGlza2FXfSps9ykhFoVdDdGzwq3Sd-2ggYLpZfoym1deAs_4Lk84b5skbpfrEAzMa-G0ycKuc8dGsdPJuFa6w56K_Zr8_-1WyxozLWZkhMrcHmpejti5atbimJaoVKdIZjCA5/w511-h340/MOB%20Stop%20Lanyard.JPG" width="511" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MOB Stop Lanyard</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqnW-3-6sThnNufAmT2N4wWu6pG8xw_dO9Ag91dOS3Rv0XpEHlSEb0eBb0EOyVT2R8fema6QWhQRJvtPpj8_dtDVqx2asCGhDunOgj9l1Q4S2AHk_2fNRd9OJdJe88Ybx5bR26HqHlZV9o76QyS8_zfFsz31sThc92kjvjsTtPRJFq8DUQKft5rXH/s5472/Motor%20Safey%20Lanyard.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqnW-3-6sThnNufAmT2N4wWu6pG8xw_dO9Ag91dOS3Rv0XpEHlSEb0eBb0EOyVT2R8fema6QWhQRJvtPpj8_dtDVqx2asCGhDunOgj9l1Q4S2AHk_2fNRd9OJdJe88Ybx5bR26HqHlZV9o76QyS8_zfFsz31sThc92kjvjsTtPRJFq8DUQKft5rXH/w505-h336/Motor%20Safey%20Lanyard.JPG" width="505" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A motor safety lanyard, in this case made from a short length of dyneema with a stainless steel clip for quick attachment </td></tr></tbody></table><p>What else? Make sure you have a safety lanyard attaching your motor to the tender (not to be confused with a motor stop MOB lanyard); just recently we witnessed the loss of an outboard. The owner didn’t have a lanyard attaching the motor to the outboard bracket, from what we saw it was a small motor that could be started in gear, while giving the motor a mighty pull on the start cord it jumped off the bracket, the owner held the throttle handle in his left hand. As the motor twisted the throttle opened up while the owner desperately tried to wrestle it back onto the outboard bracket. Unfortunately the motor won the tug of war and off it went to a watery grave spitting and spluttering as it sunk. This safety lanyard could be a short cable and padlock so your motor is still there when you come back with the shopping on re-supply day. </p><p>Use an additional safety lanyard when you remove the outboard, make sure that you have a safety line tied from the engine to the main vessel. Outboards can be heavy and if you lose balance or some crazy zooms into the anchorage while you’re doing the transfer and drop it in the water, you will be very glad to have that safety line in place.</p><p>Start the outboard first before casting off from the boat or jetty, not after. If you don't and the motor doesn’t start, you may firstly look silly, and secondly the tide will determine how hard you have to paddle against the current to get back to the boat. If the current is flowing strongly and your not making head way drop the anchor and you may need to wait it out. </p><p>Put on a life jacket before boarding; make sure that kids and people who are not strong swimmers do the same. Is climbing into the dinghy difficult for you or your crew? If it is you will need to plan your trip or work out ways to make it easier. To board use the painter to bring the dinghy as close as you can to the boat. I get in first and bring the dinghy up and across the boat's transom to make it easy to board for kids or those with short legs. When you step in the dinghy, try to get straight inside it putting your feet on the floor. Use a balancing rope, I have even see people use an extended topping lift or rope hung from the davits to hold while climbing aboard. Don’t stand on the on the side tube to get in, depending on the design of the vessel stern, it may be better to get the little ones and older people to sit on the tubes or swim deck then slide into the tender. Once one of the crew is on board ask others to hop on board but don’t jump in as this can be unstable. It can certainly make people stumble around in the boat, there is a strong possibility falling on to others in the tender, or stubbing toes or standing on things on the floor. Make sure to spread the load and not have all the weight on one side or in the aft, and do not overload the tender read the capacity label.</p><p>For the first trip of the day warm the motor up, get in the tender first and run the motor on low RPM for a couple of minutes to make sure it starts and is running smoothly while you load the passengers and luggage. Like any other trip, plan ahead, make sure you have enough supplies, fuel, water, food for the trip your about to embark on. </p><p>When using the tender at night it’s a legal requirement to carry a torch at a minimum to mark your presence or attract attention. We store a torch and a few other bits in an under seat storage canister made from 90 millimetre stormwater pipe and fittings. A good torch can be used to spot obstacles like anchored boats, crab pot floats, mooring buoys and to help find your boat in the dark. Mark your boat before heading to the beach for the night, we have put several bands of SOLAS reflective tape high up on the mast to give us a good visual which is our boat in the anchorage by shining a torch around. If you know you’re not going to return before dark turn on a few lights and don’t forget your anchor light.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnb8iXAf_Vyqb930L8LDAFcU6pSlio2SzXVEBTcFtm3KFr7t8G0hqghKBwZyiqfDk3WgL6OP6YV7TOyp2P7S1rFX2R-CMmpXDqO-6IS5iuKmA5xH-ZkGPerwtUTZ9gS3KDp5BNbvproCOCIRijEn2jwO6o-spTmnm-K4oh44gfEe579rfkZTg6X6D/s5472/Quiet%20Sundowners%20Towed%20Stern%20Too%203.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnb8iXAf_Vyqb930L8LDAFcU6pSlio2SzXVEBTcFtm3KFr7t8G0hqghKBwZyiqfDk3WgL6OP6YV7TOyp2P7S1rFX2R-CMmpXDqO-6IS5iuKmA5xH-ZkGPerwtUTZ9gS3KDp5BNbvproCOCIRijEn2jwO6o-spTmnm-K4oh44gfEe579rfkZTg6X6D/w509-h339/Quiet%20Sundowners%20Towed%20Stern%20Too%203.JPG" width="509" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quiet Sundowners Towed Stern Too stops the gargling and the dog lapping at water noises </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p>So when it’s time to be enjoying sun-downers in the cockpit or you’re headed off to bed we have found a tender will make all sorts of noises. It might gently or noisily tap against the hull or make slapping sounds like it’s a dog noisily drinking water. In the past we would pick ours up out of the water of an evening so it didn’t ruin the serenity as we were enjoying our drinks. On investigation we found that like a lot of RIB’s there is a pocket or tunnel that forms where the tubes join the hull, it’s the motion of the waves in this pocket that makes all the noise. The solution that works for us is to tie the dinghy with its bow the other way. That’s right facing away from the boat, turn it around 180˚ from the usual towing position and secure it from the stern on one or two short painters while you’re enjoying your time in the cockpit. The tender stern with the motor on is heavier and rides deeper in the water, so there are no pockets for the waves to slap and slosh into. Problem solved the drinking water noise disappears and with two painters securing it we found that it didn’t sneak up the side of the boat and tap on the hull at O’ dark thirty. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHuCffzfmYWQege3xOZRZj_qOMli-GRA6DCFeVjCQTfoO_fDoZPr0DuFnbEBNJoBYB_D08BultE84QfGQE8EBbA59WNOpb05qqQHnd2J-xb8iKce8w6J_yQADFz9YiJxAf6vUD01uMAod4us-f0C3kwlBzb2B16qS8oDzowVPc0kyz6aOtUi5g1p4X/s7776/Inspection%20Port%20Drain%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5832" data-original-width="7776" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHuCffzfmYWQege3xOZRZj_qOMli-GRA6DCFeVjCQTfoO_fDoZPr0DuFnbEBNJoBYB_D08BultE84QfGQE8EBbA59WNOpb05qqQHnd2J-xb8iKce8w6J_yQADFz9YiJxAf6vUD01uMAod4us-f0C3kwlBzb2B16qS8oDzowVPc0kyz6aOtUi5g1p4X/w568-h426/Inspection%20Port%20Drain%20.JPG" width="568" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large inspection port used as a quick drain for when the tender is on the davits, could also double as an anti theft device if removed when on the beach. <br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEHkxlSc1bNjbTrP5Sp0YF1a_1n8_wsEGKkWwWeplppiWLaxTKdIEZu5903PZqkCuXYl1DZBqCOwywWIK8LT6jog-9lXpTgK5Zxj4jeGa69Yt_JxT4-gQiLz_ucm_CMrRIlfPR2mW2fWhO9Qi-4gkJ51s_-hxFOSndufxPG5S1n-pixDTD5802SC5/s5472/Motor%20Locked%20Inline%20Fuel%20Filter%20and%20inspection%20port%20drain%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEHkxlSc1bNjbTrP5Sp0YF1a_1n8_wsEGKkWwWeplppiWLaxTKdIEZu5903PZqkCuXYl1DZBqCOwywWIK8LT6jog-9lXpTgK5Zxj4jeGa69Yt_JxT4-gQiLz_ucm_CMrRIlfPR2mW2fWhO9Qi-4gkJ51s_-hxFOSndufxPG5S1n-pixDTD5802SC5/w569-h378/Motor%20Locked%20Inline%20Fuel%20Filter%20and%20inspection%20port%20drain%201.JPG" width="569" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to go the large stern drain has the cover in place the motor is locked and has a safety lanyard. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Tenders hanging from the aft davits or for that matter any tenders stored upright on deck or over the side need some way of clearing the water quickly so as not to put a large strain on the davits, deck chocks or halyards. During a heavy down pore it doesn’t take much to overwhelm the small drain hole most tenders have. A leaf, loose line or just the shear volume of water during a storm can quickly see a tender fill with water. To help clear water from inside the tender we installed an inspection hatch in the transom. If we are in a heavy downpour or take a large wave over the stern the water can quickly empty. Also when we tie up at the beach and are going to be out of sight of the tender we can take the inspection plate with us, anyone wanting to steal the tender is going to have to try and row a water filled inflatable away unless of course they carry their own motor kill switch lanyard. </p><p>Another lesson learnt. During a trip south to Tasmania we lost our tender one evening while anchored in Twofold Bay. Following along with the proverb: the battle was lost because of a nail. Our story started in Jervis Bay when I injured myself; I had a fall while over extending to get one of the davit lifting lines. When in Eden I returned to the vessel one afternoon the worst for wear due to the injuries I sustained in Jervis Bay rather than lifting the tender up out of the water I secured just the painter to the back of the boat. Some time during the evening the clip securing the painter came apart. Off went the tender on a nocturnal trip finishing upside down on the rocks at the southern end of the bay. We did get the tender back and after a new motor, some patches and work tidying up the numerous scratches we had a tender again. So what was our nail? A short length of line was all that was needed so I didn’t need to over extend to start picking up the tender into the davits. We now have extended both davit lines so we don’t have to over extend to start the retrieval process. Now we secure the tender in two places to the vessel if we don’t pick it up out of the water. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HwqYDUQXKZge4yZCR-gZQTZVgdyFXVBkgS2jPJsBqZcZeedNuNKmERYcaLD2ylEbfDGXgnlLC_fMAZBHgfOJkHXJMeCZrtHQ0w0kFkh-COr_E0yDIl5XuR2FLibh7uLbNRpK5170e4I0c2efafUyaMUDccegNohgMdWeq2fBdYzilXjslIGAo3YT/s5472/Fuel%20Tank%20Cover.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HwqYDUQXKZge4yZCR-gZQTZVgdyFXVBkgS2jPJsBqZcZeedNuNKmERYcaLD2ylEbfDGXgnlLC_fMAZBHgfOJkHXJMeCZrtHQ0w0kFkh-COr_E0yDIl5XuR2FLibh7uLbNRpK5170e4I0c2efafUyaMUDccegNohgMdWeq2fBdYzilXjslIGAo3YT/w526-h350/Fuel%20Tank%20Cover.JPG" width="526" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A simple fuel tank cover made from sunbrella canvas and sewed on board using a house hold sewing machine we keep as much of the hoses under cover as well,</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_AN9exErnbWRWQSrILanrAwAj0cJKxRFsqsVp7MtvDe4ARBnvOp_vHKQSChXA9XETndLoZ5f7k74V7h9qk4jUdRdpi17oRCJjZAHLuzo9AVf5sA9WMHFFMfFcZWm2Gg7qs1QOi1wlfR0l_OwDZj4rqEJ5zL5tgEQMVraM99JkacLbSvr54nLtAOb/s5472/Secured%20Fuel%20Tank%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_AN9exErnbWRWQSrILanrAwAj0cJKxRFsqsVp7MtvDe4ARBnvOp_vHKQSChXA9XETndLoZ5f7k74V7h9qk4jUdRdpi17oRCJjZAHLuzo9AVf5sA9WMHFFMfFcZWm2Gg7qs1QOi1wlfR0l_OwDZj4rqEJ5zL5tgEQMVraM99JkacLbSvr54nLtAOb/w511-h340/Secured%20Fuel%20Tank%201.JPG" width="511" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuel tank secured in place so it will not fall out, this tank is starting to show sun damage, its best to cover the tank from new to stop the sun damage.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>What else? Securely mount (tie or strap) your loose items including the fuel tank into the tender. We were hoisting the tender up into the davits one windy afternoon as we got ready to sail back across the bay. About half way up into the cradle a strong wind bullet caught the tender turning it onto its side trying to spill the contents into the bay. Everything but the fuel tank was secured in some way. To cut a long story short we were able to up anchor and give chase to the tank as it was quickly disappearing on the outgoing tide. Luckily the only loss was the fuel in the tank that we had to dispose of on shore at a disposal station due to contamination, sea water had trickled in the vent as it floated away semi submerged.</p><p> Something that has fallen from grace over the years is the use of a long painter to tie up at the local jetty; the reason to do this is to allow others to get in to the jetty by being able to move your tender off to the side. If you tie up tight then only a very limited number of tenders can tie up and use the jetty at one time, and as we know that with beach parties the more the merrier. </p><p>Lastly and very important, when you finally get to the anchorage or jetty and before you start manoeuvring your boat, shorten the painter until the dinghy almost touches the boat. This should stop the painter from getting fouled in the boat propeller.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-81149461218619026102023-02-02T08:12:00.003+10:002023-02-06T16:42:21.294+10:00Global Navigation Satellite System and Satellite Based Augmentation Systems<p> GNSS GPS and SBAS So what do these acronyms stand for? </p><p>Handy to know if your headed out to buy a new satellite navigation system. </p><p><b>GNSS</b> stands for Global Navigation Satellite System, and is an overarching term that encompasses all of the global satellite positioning systems. This includes constellations of satellites orbiting over the earth’s surface continuously transmitting signals that enable users to determine their position. These satellite constellations are owned and controlled by the governments of different countries. Due to design and operation, the signals and frequency's from the different systems are individual. Purchasing a system that is purported to be capable of processing the signals from a variety of systems must be backed up with an antenna capable of receiving the signals different frequencies. Keep in mind there are few receivers capable of using more than two constellations at the one time. In a lot of cases the constellations can be selected using the receivers software, however as I have noted your unit must be connected to antenna capable of receiving the signals. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0-gs-26Ahi1ZUL_1z-35IF-Zr_ThgHeGmPZ13tROaiNytekuUq43fOgyCyN4snZSrVgif3QsPcJWrAuTFa_NPqauk1asXD9GuXqS6QDCCi-CUdYV7K8OwKFqe0nbHBMWpP0no6WG997igQyZd_2bzpBcI3M5OpKyk5iAT0jk7tx9K6WunParIJRs/s266/download.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="189" data-original-width="266" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0-gs-26Ahi1ZUL_1z-35IF-Zr_ThgHeGmPZ13tROaiNytekuUq43fOgyCyN4snZSrVgif3QsPcJWrAuTFa_NPqauk1asXD9GuXqS6QDCCi-CUdYV7K8OwKFqe0nbHBMWpP0no6WG997igQyZd_2bzpBcI3M5OpKyk5iAT0jk7tx9K6WunParIJRs/s1600/download.png" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Constellations of satellites orbiting over the earth’s surface continuously transmitting signals that enable users to determine their position. </span>At a minimum, four satellites must be in view of the receiver for it to compute four unknown quantities (three position coordinates and clock deviation from satellite time), this is also why more satellites equal more precision.</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>GPS </b> Global Positioning System is but one component of GNSS (the Global Navigation Satellite System). GPS specifically refers to the NAVSTAR Global Positioning System, a constellation of satellites developed by the United States Department of Defence. Originally GPS was developed for military use, but was later made accessible to civilians and industry. GPS is now the most widely used component of GNSS in the world, and provides continuous positioning and timing information globally even under the most arduous weather conditions. This is the system that started the satellite positioning revolution. The term GPS does get used a lot to explain satellite navigation, like the term iPad is used to describe a tablet computer. </p><p>In addition to GPS, other systems are in use or under development. These systems make up the other orbiting constellations of satellites. Several governments are developing or have operational their own systems due to the fact the US government can selectively deny access to the GPS system or degrade the system performance at any time. This has happened in the past and it is possible it could happen again in the future. </p><p><b>GLONASS </b>the Russian Global Navigation Satellite System (GLONASS) was developed at the same time as GPS, but suffered from incomplete coverage of the globe until recent years. GLONASS signals can be added to GNSS devices, making more satellites available and enabling positions to be fixed more quickly and accurately, sometimes to within two meters. </p><p><b>Galileo</b> is Europe’s Satellite Navigation System constellation, providing improved positioning and timing information with a significant positive impact for many European services and users. Until now, GNSS users have had to depend on American non-civilian GPS or Russian GLONASS signals. With Galileo, users now have a, reliable alternative that, unlike these other programs, remains under civilian control.</p><p><b>BDS</b> is China's BeiDou Navigation Satellite System. In 2015, China started the latest generation BeiDou system for a global coverage constellation. The first satellite of the latest generation was launched in March 2015. As of October 2018, fifteen BDS satellites had been launched. The constellation will eventually consist of 35 satellites and is expected to provide global services upon completion in 2020. When fully completed, BeiDou will provide an alternative global navigation satellite system to the United States owned Global Positioning System the Russian GLONASS or European Galileo systems and is expected to be more accurate than these.</p><p><b>NAVIC</b> The Indian Regional Navigation Satellite System (IRNSS), with an operational name of NAVIC. NAVIC is an independent regional satellite navigation system that provides accurate real-time positioning and timing services. It covers India and a region extending 1,500 km around it, with plans for further extension. The system currently consists of a constellation of seven satellites. NAVIC will provide two levels of service, the "standard positioning service", which will be open for civilian use, and a "restricted service" (an encrypted one) for authorised users (including the military). NAVIC is planned to become available for civilian use in the first half of 2020. There are plans to expand the NAVIC system by increasing its constellation size from 7 to 11.</p><p>To sum up the main satellite constellations are <b>GPS</b> (USA), <b>GLONASS</b> (Russia), <b>Galileo</b> (EU), <b>BeiDou</b> (China) <b>NAVIC</b> (India). These five satellite systems are the major players under the umbrella term GNSS. So a global navigation satellite system (GNSS) is a group of synchronized satellite constellations working collectively transmitting radio signals used for position navigation and time solutions. The position navigation and time solutions provided by these GNSS are used for a wide and growing variety of applications covering most industry sectors including agriculture, aviation, construction, consumer, resources, road, rail, maritime, mining and water utilities. Time solutions for the synchronisation of communication including cell phones, and electrical networks to name a few. </p><p><b>Fundamentals</b></p><p>The GNSS concept is based on time and the known position of GNSS satellites. The satellites carry very stable atomic clocks that are synchronized with one another and with the ground station clocks. Any drift from true time maintained on the ground is corrected daily. In the same manner, the satellite locations are known with great precision. GNSS receivers have clocks, but they are less stable and less precise.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ543eh7frEgD3nGuShcAGQNo4d4n9LKq0p-MdCmdorqx6unjHb1xpWAwUTSPzwQZoteW3jHfS1egV4AAdCM6EcdApbv6HAsPHV6-sSr3G1Q6VU1wTsCpAogZJlcRMuLWrayvMUERcQs77NXmFnBbi3QBdiuhuIlcyc5Z74KRkXlQTON4MKjJMBOro/s700/1617902283261.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="700" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ543eh7frEgD3nGuShcAGQNo4d4n9LKq0p-MdCmdorqx6unjHb1xpWAwUTSPzwQZoteW3jHfS1egV4AAdCM6EcdApbv6HAsPHV6-sSr3G1Q6VU1wTsCpAogZJlcRMuLWrayvMUERcQs77NXmFnBbi3QBdiuhuIlcyc5Z74KRkXlQTON4MKjJMBOro/w653-h288/1617902283261.png" width="653" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At a glance its easy to see the benefits of having a number of available sources of data. However that said most receivers use GPS as the primary source of positioning, so that has to be saying some thing about the robustness of the system as a whole. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>GNSS Receivers</b></p><p>GNSS satellites continuously transmit data about their current time and position. A GNSS receiver monitors multiple satellites and solves equations to determine the precise position of the receiver and its deviation from true time. How many satellites a receiver can track or monitor, I have seen up to 99 listed however this varies with brand. Another technique becoming common is to deliver position aiding data to the GNSS receiver via wireless networks or the Internet. Supplying information such as ephemeris, almanac, approximate last position, time and satellite status and an optional time synchronisation signal significantly reduces Time to First Fix (TTFF) and improves acquisition sensitivity.</p><p>At a minimum, four satellites must be in view of the receiver for it to compute four unknown quantities (three position coordinates and clock deviation from satellite time), this is also why more satellites equal more precision. The information provided by a generic GNSS receiver can be used by a wide range of applications. Most systems use the receiver's solution, the receivers computed position, velocity and time to run the task assigned.</p><p>Keep in mind most GNSS receivers can pick up GPS signals (if configured), however a GPS receiver can not pick up signals from the other constellations of orbiting satellites. This can be a hard to comprehend due to the way most systems are loosely referred to as GPS, I have even seen systems that use triangulation of phone towers to find a positioning solution called GPS. </p><p>If one system is down, most of the newer GNSS receivers will already be using signals from all the other systems. Just look for the number of satellites your receiver will track, fifty six is common but more is now the norm. And of course, the more satellites your receiver is looking at and acquiring data from the more likely that if your line of sight to one satellite is obstructed by a mast, boom, Bimini frame or other obstacle, it can receive signals from another satellite.</p><p><b>GNSS Accuracy</b></p><p>In open sky conditions, standard accuracy GNSS receivers are accurate to around two meters, however, because GNSS receivers rely on the time it takes a satellite signal to reach them, even the slightest errors like a millionth of a second can impact accuracy. </p><p>Errors in satellite orbit position can lead to around 2.5 meters loss of accuracy. Satellite clock errors can add another 1.5 meters. Atmospheric disturbances can add another five meters, plus throw in the occasional intense burst of solar activity or multi path effects like signals bouncing off the sea surface, mast, boom or spray dodger frames, and this accuracy can easily bump the error out to 10 meters or more. </p><p><b>GNSS systems in Australia</b></p><p>Australia is one of few countries in the world with high visibility to six GNSS due to our geographical location. These include not only the main global systems of GPS, GLONASS, Galileo, BeiDou, NAVIC but also Japan's Quasi Zenith Satellite System (QZSS).</p><p><b>RTK </b></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KrdWessnXBcMqfBAvQgSI73PhhiNw7a-EY9HbPBthQQQHeLSckINYI4drxvqQy2tMWB7eWYJHDQ86vuCI2hk_wRxt15cru1hvTbh8K5x6M2RcfEpApmQsDdULVXd0RAjgrrFRPLZUhKFL6_wUzGp81mtEadi_7EnBj9zN8ZtqAAZVw3SBR5z3vBg/s220/Real_time_kinematic.svg.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="161" data-original-width="220" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KrdWessnXBcMqfBAvQgSI73PhhiNw7a-EY9HbPBthQQQHeLSckINYI4drxvqQy2tMWB7eWYJHDQ86vuCI2hk_wRxt15cru1hvTbh8K5x6M2RcfEpApmQsDdULVXd0RAjgrrFRPLZUhKFL6_wUzGp81mtEadi_7EnBj9zN8ZtqAAZVw3SBR5z3vBg/w417-h305/Real_time_kinematic.svg.png" width="417" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A simple RTK system the rover can be backpack or vehicle mounted</td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><p></p><p>Real-time kinematic (RTK) positioning technique is used to enhance the precision of positioning data received from global navigation satellite systems such as GPS, GLONASS, Galileo, NAVIC and BeiDou. Luckily, high precision GNSS systems dramatically improve precision using GNSS correction data to cancel out the errors. One way to do this involves monitoring GNSS signals at a base station set up on a known location (surveyed). Deviations from the base station’s position are observed and sent via radio link to the mobile vehicle (AKA rover). The rover is equipped with a GNSS receiver and radio link receiver for the deviation corrections. When the deviation corrections are received at the rover they are applied in real time to the GNSS position to obtain a more accurate position reading. In favourable conditions, this approach can be used to achieve centimetre level accuracy, provided that the base station and the rover are not too far apart. Real-time kinematic (RTK) positioning technique is widely used by the geospatial industry for increased accuracy in surveying and mapping (navigation).</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Welcome to the wonderful world of Satellite Based Augmentation Systems </span></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGKOLJHEYEgjlkEjILqh6mBSj2h0YwFk7sQDzFUthlA2JUqtTKN1Bfrj0y7n3hmYkVLkKrmS3aWIM3rcuwabha6ExfJdK9_IUOIizkJXKrLT2XT81TsPxFXDXT50QbKlkM5n7F819NRNgtZztH58vmvDBU27lv2HyVYH_wwoLGR-wxr04kbPzItEm/s2528/SBAS-coverage-map.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1880" data-original-width="2528" height="619" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGKOLJHEYEgjlkEjILqh6mBSj2h0YwFk7sQDzFUthlA2JUqtTKN1Bfrj0y7n3hmYkVLkKrmS3aWIM3rcuwabha6ExfJdK9_IUOIizkJXKrLT2XT81TsPxFXDXT50QbKlkM5n7F819NRNgtZztH58vmvDBU27lv2HyVYH_wwoLGR-wxr04kbPzItEm/w832-h619/SBAS-coverage-map.png" width="832" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This coverage map may mean more after reading the description below. </td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p><b>SBAS</b></p><p>We hear the term *augmentation system or SBAS thrown around a lot these day so what does SBAS stand for?</p><p>SBAS stands for satellite-based augmentation system. A Satellite Based Augmentation System is a wide area differential Global Navigation Satellite System (DGNSS) signal augmentation system which uses a number of geostationary satellites, able to cover vast regional areas. These geostationary satellites don’t move, in other words they stay in sync with the rotation of the earth as opposed to the GNSS satellites that orbit the earth continuously.</p><p>To calculate GNSS position errors, GNSS data received from satellites is compared against the precise location of each land based ground station. Discrepancies are measured and the corrections, called deviation corrections, are transmitted to the geostationary satellites. These satellites then broadcast primary GNSS data which has been provided with the received integrity, ranging, and deviation correction information sent from the regional SBAS ground stations. </p><p>While the primary purpose of SBAS is to provide integrity assurance, use of the system also increases accuracy and can reduce positional errors to less than 1 meter.</p><p>So in a nut shell SBAS is a regional network of ground stations and satellites that work together to boost the accuracy and dependability GNSS data. The increased accuracy is critical for aviation and is another technique widely used by the geospatial industry for increased accuracy in navigation and mapping.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabF1RsUHKW9Nl6GJsvye6af-Y6zNLMhU6uNQwgaCYxAQ-nAvfpi0aU3fcLbNtckkdFQTzzmxtln56HSZos01rd7EUhKFbSX8hCE-2oy6bpnpmkfrgC3lJCp6qELWZvihA8NEsNxFPEvZqlyvovQXECKP42MfPqHN6DuRN2yLhLvMsB959Ov3i_yYF/s768/GNSS%20SBAS.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="443" data-original-width="768" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabF1RsUHKW9Nl6GJsvye6af-Y6zNLMhU6uNQwgaCYxAQ-nAvfpi0aU3fcLbNtckkdFQTzzmxtln56HSZos01rd7EUhKFbSX8hCE-2oy6bpnpmkfrgC3lJCp6qELWZvihA8NEsNxFPEvZqlyvovQXECKP42MfPqHN6DuRN2yLhLvMsB959Ov3i_yYF/w677-h392/GNSS%20SBAS.jpg" width="677" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is a drawing of a basic SBAS set up. On the left bottom is a number of receivers collecting positioning data from the orbiting satellites. The signals are then passed to the central processing unit that calculates what corrections are required for what satellite. That information is then available via the internet or it is transmitted to one of the GeoStationary satellites. The GeoStationary satellites then transmits these corrections to our mobile (ship car airplane) GNSS receiver to correct our position making for very a accurate location (lets hope the map is as accurate to make it of use) . </td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>While all this sounds great, how do we benefit. The GNSS receiver you purchase will hopefully be able to use the correction data that has been sent to it from the regional geostationary satellites. Your GNSS receiver may then display that you are navigating with DGNSS. I think most of us have heard of WAAS and how it will transform our GPS in to a super accurate navigation device. Well WAAS can do wonderful things, however for those of us who live in Australia or sail around the Pacific it won’t help give us any better positioning accuracy. </p><p>Now the bad news, while we here in Australia are lucky enough have high visibility of up to six GNSS constellations due to our geographical location. We do not have the use of a Satellite Based Augmentation System at present. The tests have been done and hopefully it will become fully operational in the near future. If the documentation I have researched is correct our corrections will be broadcast by Japan's Quasi Zenith Satellite System (QZSS). I have seen this pop up on my GNSS from time to time and my receiver does indeed switch to DGNSS. </p><p>So if the sales man trying to sell you a GNSS receiver starts letting you know about the added accuracy of the various systems like WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS and GAGAN. You have the heads up that none are any good to you unless your headed off around the world, and really you don’t want to be paying extra for systems you will never need or use. Its nice to know those in other parts of the world can enjoy dynamic positioning however in Australia its getting there. SBAS is regional and the regions and systems are listed below. </p><p>Now for some good news. The Australia test (not cricket) transmission has been extended and will be available until 31 July 2020. This will provide continuity of SBAS signals to support R&D, industry testing and encourage early adoption. Ya gota hope so. </p><div style="text-align: left;">*Augmentation the process of increasing the size, value, or quality of something by adding to it.</div><div style="text-align: left;">*To augment is to increase the amount or strength of something </div><p><b>Regions that have SBAS coverage</b>, for a better visual look at the coverage map at the begining of this section</p><p><b>WAAS</b> United States, Canada, and Mexico, Wide Area Augmentation System, or WAAS, is operated by the United States Federal Aviation Administration. Development for WAAS began in 1994.</p><p><b>EGNOS</b> European Union: European Geostationary Navigation Overlay Service, or EGNOS, was developed by the European Space Agency.</p><p><b>MSAS </b>Japan: The Multi-Functional Satellite Augmentation System, or MSAS, is operated by the Japan Civil Aviation Bureau, a division of the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, and Transport. The QZSS service area covers East Asia and Oceania region and its platform is multi-constellation GNSS. The QZSS system is not required to work in a stand-alone mode, but together with data from other GNSS satellites.</p><p><b>GAGAN </b>India: GPS-Aided GEO Augmented Navigation, or GAGAN, was developed by the Indian Space Research Organization and Airport Authority of India.</p><p><b>MTSAT</b> Satellite Augmentation System (MSAS) is the Japanese Satellite Based Augmentation System System a GPS Augmentation system with the goal of improving its accuracy, integrity, and availability, and that uses the Multifunctional Transport Satellites (MTSAT) owned and operated by the Japanese Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport and the Japan Meteorological Agency. First tests were accomplished successfully, and MSAS system for aviation use was declared operational in September 27, 2007, providing a service of horizontal guidance for en route through Non-Precision Approach.</p><p><b>SBAS systems under development</b></p><p><b>SNAS </b>China: Satellite Navigation Augmentation System, or SNAS, is in development.</p><p><b>SDCM</b> Russia: System for Differential Corrections and Monitoring, or SDCM, is in development. When completed, SDCM will offer corrections for GPS and GLONASS, the Russian satellite navigation system.</p><p><b>WADGPS </b>South Korea: Wide Area Differential Global Positioning System, or WADGPS.</p><div style="text-align: left;">Here are a couple of links from us that may be of interest:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/one-mans-datum-is-another-mans-ship.htm" target="_blank">One mans datum is another mans shipwreck</a> a discussion about chart Datum </div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/the-way-we-navigate-in-digital-age.html" target="_blank">The way we navigate in the digital age </a> a discussion about the tools we use to navigate</div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/ais-overview.html" target="_blank">An over view of AIS </a>An overview about how AIS works and the weird and funny (not ha ha) things we have seen</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p><br /></p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-68142619170424704252023-01-31T16:15:00.005+10:002023-02-03T06:18:25.401+10:00OpenCPN Tracks Routes Waypoints<p>When we first started cruising I wish that I had been more careful
with recording and backing up our Routes, Tracks and Waypoints. For
the first couple of trips I thought that I was saving the tracks on
my handheld GPS receiver. I thought this was working well until we
started to do longer trips and due to the small memory in the unit
the previous track files eventually started to get over written. It
wasn't until we saved the tracks off on to the computer I found to my
horror there were great number of tracks missing. </p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">After becoming more
familiar with the handheld on the longer trips I found a way to save
the active tracks on to the unit as we went along so they didn't get
overwritten. I thought this was a solution until I found to save
storage space on the unit the files were stripped of data and only a
shell of the original track was saved. These were OK but trying to
extract statistical data from them later didn't work.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">After talking to
some cruisers and discussing how I wanted to keep a record of our
travels, we were told about OpenCPN. We downloaded and installed a
copy, connected it up to the onboard instrument WiFi and away we
went with positioning and AIS data. We found OpenCPN easy to use and
before long this was where we did our passage planning and created
waypoints, routes and clearing lines and were easily able to save off
our tracks in GPX format.</p>
<p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">So why go to all
that effort to save the information. To state the obvious travelling
through reef or sand bar infested waters is so much easier when
you’re travelling on a track or route you’ve already successfully
navigated. Anchoring is also a lot easier when you know where you or
others have actually been able to get into and have dropped the pick.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MvezxPK-jvQzW4DF0XDWJiu48EjAW-1Z5kpcgjOOHJ17PxpAZOnmiB1JTCArPHiGAnSvLKHUXVPMeyFXS2dM7_uJ12NHn2t30f_zt9iBqyCVtYOEdyJNGMI_BGyieyqaRvIra6Pc0E5bmHlZ1VfL4akZpOTk58MGmvRyT5q_6MxflXpiFVvm2SBd/s1117/why%20keep%20tracks.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1117" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MvezxPK-jvQzW4DF0XDWJiu48EjAW-1Z5kpcgjOOHJ17PxpAZOnmiB1JTCArPHiGAnSvLKHUXVPMeyFXS2dM7_uJ12NHn2t30f_zt9iBqyCVtYOEdyJNGMI_BGyieyqaRvIra6Pc0E5bmHlZ1VfL4akZpOTk58MGmvRyT5q_6MxflXpiFVvm2SBd/w576-h371/why%20keep%20tracks.png" width="576" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is why we keep tracks, for the return journey. <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2w4RPM5Beo/XZa-fssamOI/AAAAAAAAHfg/4CvnN7iDWSUklz3Ceet6M50bp8FBieV0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ms%2Breflection.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="1600" height="272" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2w4RPM5Beo/XZa-fssamOI/AAAAAAAAHfg/4CvnN7iDWSUklz3Ceet6M50bp8FBieV0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/ms%2Breflection.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">Moonshdow sitting ever so peacefully at anchor in Damo Bay, Flores, Indonesia, yep the same bay as on the chart above. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3; color: #727272; font-family: "lucida calligraphy"; font-size: 18pt; text-align: left;"></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>If we hadn't been
through, or anchored, there were other cruises in similar draft and
size vessels that are more than happy to share this sort of
information. This can come in really handy when you know that the
path was clear when they went through and didn't hit anything, or the
bottom wasn't foul for anchoring. We have even negotiated several
river entrances and then were able to pass on either the track or the
waypoint information so others were able to enter with a reasonable
level of confidence. A link to a library of waypoints and sat charts are available on the net <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/TerrysTopics.htm" target="_blank">head here </a>for a good start. <p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">While this may sound
like a lot more work, after every passage when finalising the logbook
we rename the track and give any waypoints created meaningful names
and fill in any necessary information into the waypoint description
box. With the tracks we enter the start and end port/town/anchorage
and from experience we have found this certainly makes it easier and
saves time to find the track if we want to do the trip again. We have
been given waypoints and or tracks contained in large GPX files
others have made, and it can take a bit of detective work to work out
the right track and waypoints just by the numbers the system uses as
default.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">The three following screen grabs are not from the OpenCPN program.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMcy0-cRRg69wI6wsjFdvE8EOXR7n9prxk7NX4FI6x8Rss0vKtFJvtKXPkVERGZZtrRjZ4nzRvk4wC-9tZhEkNpw1JCV_qC09q2v08tg87cLIAjrdbJzK9MH4dpLRQb8piN1acJ00CXID1OHHpln7coBlFSpZ1XLdjMDkB4USZJrbLMl6YGJVoWyos/s768/Tracks%20by%20Number.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="768" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMcy0-cRRg69wI6wsjFdvE8EOXR7n9prxk7NX4FI6x8Rss0vKtFJvtKXPkVERGZZtrRjZ4nzRvk4wC-9tZhEkNpw1JCV_qC09q2v08tg87cLIAjrdbJzK9MH4dpLRQb8piN1acJ00CXID1OHHpln7coBlFSpZ1XLdjMDkB4USZJrbLMl6YGJVoWyos/w485-h458/Tracks%20by%20Number.png" width="485" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tracks routes and waypoints identified by a number. Unfortunately these are not very explanatory and needed to be tidied up and named before use. Yes it would have been possible to import them into the chart however some of the tracks were broken or parts were missing.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTcgYOTSBB4_trvAmYTx87pVb7jScDBuT1IQpMSMrC01Mkdnfm2vAp-CF2Ne_vJ4AtJ8lSXgJGpvo744t0zPZdVnQ7jmz0Zbsbp2Qom2QpKDoT-Bql7MGmc9De0vOfxIELtC-1b6WHD_Un6Rlm_si-6LAvlKGD_tKFbIdUndpGEgRwm-J4T5mPjS-G/s789/Same%20tracks%20after%20a%20clean%20up%20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="789" height="467" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTcgYOTSBB4_trvAmYTx87pVb7jScDBuT1IQpMSMrC01Mkdnfm2vAp-CF2Ne_vJ4AtJ8lSXgJGpvo744t0zPZdVnQ7jmz0Zbsbp2Qom2QpKDoT-Bql7MGmc9De0vOfxIELtC-1b6WHD_Un6Rlm_si-6LAvlKGD_tKFbIdUndpGEgRwm-J4T5mPjS-G/w505-h467/Same%20tracks%20after%20a%20clean%20up%20.png" width="505" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tracks tidied up and partial tracks joined or removed. After naming they are good to go and we can import them into the Layer directory for use when needed. </td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7Uu8Dq0IuOLKqQIsIwlwN5tXj8qd0nVqOrXGXREthrDRmZTWWicQk_v6mdVFONdsyZjGIeT-qQebLN9uvQqgZ5R1qwyfiEw2UOzVotHKSdcVzQcHODBluKOGhDJhopl4AkmCZWvhJsISh-5RJCJBVq26kzabOkmnvIli9Smp3h4sC7buYewwXNGt/s818/Tracks%20and%20routes.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="818" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7Uu8Dq0IuOLKqQIsIwlwN5tXj8qd0nVqOrXGXREthrDRmZTWWicQk_v6mdVFONdsyZjGIeT-qQebLN9uvQqgZ5R1qwyfiEw2UOzVotHKSdcVzQcHODBluKOGhDJhopl4AkmCZWvhJsISh-5RJCJBVq26kzabOkmnvIli9Smp3h4sC7buYewwXNGt/w570-h502/Tracks%20and%20routes.png" width="570" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The routes were also tidied up and we insured they didn't cross any obstacles' by overlaying them on Google Earth. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />If you interested to see what programs are available to tidy up these navigation data files here is a link:<br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/programs-to-manipulate-gps-navigation.html" target="_blank">Programs to Manipulate GPS Navigation Files<br /></a><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b>OpenCPN </b><b>Route
and Mark Manager</b></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKqhrldpHYI7z8-E8BJwApYMcEcU0-JHBNh-B4UNDe0Tua2_EiCuVaDy7ZrqAKV8B-sShB-GfO4eld09-FelmgGpoPhtFqAiJqfhh-BlZw8u6wIBZyVleWIaj97MDUSqxE_jWjP7ZaTcuy6v_rKza0VABpsuLSWd2mtf9ntIaVZbh6MCk_T6D1ZEi/s725/opencpn%20toolbar%20%20open%20pointer%20to%20route%20and%20mark%20button.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="725" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKqhrldpHYI7z8-E8BJwApYMcEcU0-JHBNh-B4UNDe0Tua2_EiCuVaDy7ZrqAKV8B-sShB-GfO4eld09-FelmgGpoPhtFqAiJqfhh-BlZw8u6wIBZyVleWIaj97MDUSqxE_jWjP7ZaTcuy6v_rKza0VABpsuLSWd2mtf9ntIaVZbh6MCk_T6D1ZEi/w498-h498/opencpn%20toolbar%20%20open%20pointer%20to%20route%20and%20mark%20button.png" width="498" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OpenCPN access to the Route and Mark Manager on the toolbar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">To
save off the tracks is fairly easy, firstly open the Route and Mark
Manager on the toolbar.</span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvY1fpBBhMNIdhjGpu5CaR8pIkQXsK10SVwV_bhNWiws2uXSy0DwBFUVqhc_JlA6Jk6-Fl7ZccsTW1bC1moq2pGh7Q4YX0-zOuAXJf8GDBgrEILLur3csHDyZTe2QmyvxPl4RDPlaO_mjzUa_PlS0OW0G2iaAwVyawMP6vOkER6IGH7sx_R-qcMGK/s870/Mark%20and%20Route%20Manager%20open.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="723" data-original-width="870" height="461" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvY1fpBBhMNIdhjGpu5CaR8pIkQXsK10SVwV_bhNWiws2uXSy0DwBFUVqhc_JlA6Jk6-Fl7ZccsTW1bC1moq2pGh7Q4YX0-zOuAXJf8GDBgrEILLur3csHDyZTe2QmyvxPl4RDPlaO_mjzUa_PlS0OW0G2iaAwVyawMP6vOkER6IGH7sx_R-qcMGK/w555-h461/Mark%20and%20Route%20Manager%20open.png" width="555" /></a></div><br /><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">If
you would like to save all the waypoints, routes and tracks off then
use the Export All Visible button. **<b>As a word of warning </b>** this
will save all routes tracks and waypoints including any files in the
Layers Tab that are selected for view. </span></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</p><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">
If you want to be selective, and for example only want to save off
the Tracks then high-lite the Tracks that you want to save off and
select the Export Selected button, the same can be done for Waypoints
and or Routes. </span></div><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">So now you have a
library of Routes, Tracks and Waypoints backed up and you are now
travelling back into the area. Perhaps you want to do some passage
planning. What is the best way to display the data quickly and easily
without merging the it with your current trips. We use the <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2018/07/setting-up-waypoint-tracks-route-layers.html" target="_blank">Layers function </a>and this way we do not have to import the GPX file or files
into the working directories. By using the Layers function the backed
up contents is also safe from being corrupted or changed.</p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Keep in mind that
when saving off your GPX files you don't have to save off tracks
routes and waypoints in the one file. I find on a lot of occasions
its easier to make three files, the three are smaller and importing
or displaying them in layers is the same. </p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">While the import GPX will do the job, we just don't unless we want to edit the information. This work often entails moving waypoints adding information into the properties or even changing the display scale. Any sort of edit we need to do, then we do save the data back into a new file and after checking its readable we will delete the imported information and use the file(s) as Layers. </p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">If you want to import a GPX file you want to do an edit on or use and during the import you are questioned about duplicate entry's and you know there isn't any entry's in any of the tabs other than Layers you will need to remove the file from the Layers Directory, to import the whole file. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p style="text-align: left;">You may also like to look at:</p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-setting-chartscale-to-display.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints<br /></a><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-selecting-default-waypoint-icons.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons</a><br /><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-stop-accidental-waypoint-moves.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-add-waypoints-into-route.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route</a></div></div><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/the-way-we-navigate-in-digital-age.html" target="_blank">Navigating in the digital Age</a></p><div style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2019/07/opencpn-interactive-cruising-guide.html" target="_blank">Creating interactive cruising Guides</a></div><div style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/programs-to-manipulate-gps-navigation.html" target="_blank">Programs to manipulate GPS files</a></div><div style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/02/global-navigation-satellite-system-and.html" target="_blank">Satellite Navigation and Satellite based Augmentation </a></div><div style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2018/07/setting-up-waypoint-tracks-route-layers.html" target="_blank">Setting up Track Route Waypoint Layers in OpenCPN</a></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-27325786053571415272023-01-30T09:52:00.005+10:002023-02-01T09:25:00.614+10:00OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons<p><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;">On the toolbar go to the Options/Ships/Routes/Points tab. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;">On the page it's a good idea to set the default waypoint Icons that are created for New Routes. This is when using the Create Route option selected on the toolbar or (ctrl R). Normally the waypoint for this is a black circle with a dot in the middle, and while this is OK it can become hard to see, it depends on how cluttered the chart is. </span></p><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;">On the same page is the set the default waypoint Icons for new waypoints. I don't really have a preference for this I normally set it as an anchor, if I am doing chart work marking in anchorages. So choose something of your liking, remember it's not hard to select a new waypoint from the dropdown list when making a new waypoint. </span></p><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZTNFIttyRoVmApQfXyfZLJPEKaaU_PT2elsVE4xRuG4wcYAvvKZHZZ1J92Y2K_BQ5Wy0sNYJpIsbb3Otq2pDuJbV11dJW1S7ZCloeOzVyJ6mTkzu0cLWW0yanYj-7XkuAZzKT0iQPJzep5i6X51yTW6_yuQ4t4J5S6ABtcCTYecg8GEAHhX2kU8_U/s940/select%20the%20default%20WP%20icons.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="940" height="415" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZTNFIttyRoVmApQfXyfZLJPEKaaU_PT2elsVE4xRuG4wcYAvvKZHZZ1J92Y2K_BQ5Wy0sNYJpIsbb3Otq2pDuJbV11dJW1S7ZCloeOzVyJ6mTkzu0cLWW0yanYj-7XkuAZzKT0iQPJzep5i6X51yTW6_yuQ4t4J5S6ABtcCTYecg8GEAHhX2kU8_U/w537-h415/select%20the%20default%20WP%20icons.png" width="537" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Select the default icons, it's really a personal choice that can speed up your work if your making several waypoints of the same types. </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>You may also like to look at:<div><br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-setting-chartscale-to-display.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints</a><br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-selecting-default-waypoint-icons.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons</a><br /><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-stop-accidental-waypoint-moves.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves</a></span></div></div><div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-add-waypoints-into-route.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route</a></div><div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-tracks-routes-waypoints.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Tracks Routes Waypoints </a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-41362985128412625282023-01-30T09:50:00.005+10:002023-02-01T09:19:05.176+10:00OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route<p> A quick and easy way to put in additional waypoints into a ready made route. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrvvXHXlkRf_TJrQ2vSFxpqwDUoD_ajCzzAF396IHe0woK6mmEbZEgsgL8MdZdNeUZKFPcB19VruXegboNVol8lQRERc13m060xWplHNaqVItbXyRobgYUOUoG08BP8ZjWstHCKXj0FNlWsu-JPiSpBRDxUZcB68u0FZFopnQeo63KrE4lyi59hAX/s724/Track%20Across%20land%20without%20additional%20waypoint.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="537" height="655" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrvvXHXlkRf_TJrQ2vSFxpqwDUoD_ajCzzAF396IHe0woK6mmEbZEgsgL8MdZdNeUZKFPcB19VruXegboNVol8lQRERc13m060xWplHNaqVItbXyRobgYUOUoG08BP8ZjWstHCKXj0FNlWsu-JPiSpBRDxUZcB68u0FZFopnQeo63KrE4lyi59hAX/w485-h655/Track%20Across%20land%20without%20additional%20waypoint.png" width="485" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route created running across the land, not much thought to what's in the way.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji1uNTP_tta0hkq0GMTQg-V5ULD3S4anp1jKohDJOIO8ezCD3RSWqwLHJno1pa_cglf98KSqS329pQB8EvYlvtlhvPA78k5xRjhiv6-dhhYERU8paxe30unvoCohFkAeuEn4lyxQoURZawXR2jgfXhcAD0NNgP-jyoQZk1jDno6ZmNCvkaZcMX7bPp/s725/insert%20waypoint.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="725" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji1uNTP_tta0hkq0GMTQg-V5ULD3S4anp1jKohDJOIO8ezCD3RSWqwLHJno1pa_cglf98KSqS329pQB8EvYlvtlhvPA78k5xRjhiv6-dhhYERU8paxe30unvoCohFkAeuEn4lyxQoURZawXR2jgfXhcAD0NNgP-jyoQZk1jDno6ZmNCvkaZcMX7bPp/w499-h498/insert%20waypoint.png" width="499" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right click on the route in a location you feel a new waypoint should be, don't be too precise as these can be easily moved later. Then select insert new waypoint, in this example I will insert two waypoints but due to the scale of the chart they were not displayed.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTeDH8vCE1Oybawb6yFefPy5IW10xqdjYY919GB3Yl2NGdQGld-EyF2QuMAv8kKWU-Z-e8dQqJp7q-6k9kKjaj4zljPVG3UuIEjVjYCl4zGkRJc8a91CSszphIQE_-idQ0MVT9kghmiQyEq4jdzaVbxMH9FjEQucTaJppDn6H4WkvEyFwQJyVEPMc/s723/2%20new%20waypoints%20added%20need%20to%20move%20the%202.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="723" data-original-width="718" height="559" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTeDH8vCE1Oybawb6yFefPy5IW10xqdjYY919GB3Yl2NGdQGld-EyF2QuMAv8kKWU-Z-e8dQqJp7q-6k9kKjaj4zljPVG3UuIEjVjYCl4zGkRJc8a91CSszphIQE_-idQ0MVT9kghmiQyEq4jdzaVbxMH9FjEQucTaJppDn6H4WkvEyFwQJyVEPMc/w556-h559/2%20new%20waypoints%20added%20need%20to%20move%20the%202.png" width="556" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After zooming in the new waypoints are visible, the default route waypoint icon is displayed </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFZR9Ck9llttIKiL9AAjag8_JSyFKgV6SVWrwhsIqSbukz5-nflZYB1mVSXBDddIkWMqij2zJYK18oidvqUlOCbsaoccE4vJn-RCOQ7jN_X15jFdV0C_QFdY6ExBRo_yERch4IP1ppsr2wyuZ9hwV3IyNXOJTjo9sQwr8dkbNbRq9608mu6dyTQra/s778/2%20waypoints%20added.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="778" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFZR9Ck9llttIKiL9AAjag8_JSyFKgV6SVWrwhsIqSbukz5-nflZYB1mVSXBDddIkWMqij2zJYK18oidvqUlOCbsaoccE4vJn-RCOQ7jN_X15jFdV0C_QFdY6ExBRo_yERch4IP1ppsr2wyuZ9hwV3IyNXOJTjo9sQwr8dkbNbRq9608mu6dyTQra/w545-h506/2%20waypoints%20added.png" width="545" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To move the waypoint into a location so the route will pass the obstruction the waypoint properties box will need to be open (this is dependant on the setting of the lock waypoint option in Options/Ships/Routes/Points). With this option set accidental movement of any waypoint will not be possible unless the properties box for that waypoint is open.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Fo7Gkh0qMJKKsM9aJYAyE5uN5txlXxy84RlwyGGI0kTIVb7yxIxknoHR0raxSnTvJLZjlSANakX6VBIQGDl6ZnnZhIxhAD014qmRj_kAk4N7an3kS_pUKLz6aQYKjsHkABhJtRh82uGVol4OJ08HTDUdg8uAkTuc5LNBysIrqAOiyk2lq_g4Wr_F/s923/waypoint%20properties%20open%20to%20move%20the%20new%20waypoint%20now%20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="923" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Fo7Gkh0qMJKKsM9aJYAyE5uN5txlXxy84RlwyGGI0kTIVb7yxIxknoHR0raxSnTvJLZjlSANakX6VBIQGDl6ZnnZhIxhAD014qmRj_kAk4N7an3kS_pUKLz6aQYKjsHkABhJtRh82uGVol4OJ08HTDUdg8uAkTuc5LNBysIrqAOiyk2lq_g4Wr_F/w560-h434/waypoint%20properties%20open%20to%20move%20the%20new%20waypoint%20now%20.png" width="560" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waypoint properties box is open waypoint can then be moved by click and dragging into a place to miss the obstruction, and place us in the East Coast Current. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWzRfRvKQg22YN3Lb_pfHfPjYxzNNxuUiV0wuOds7a-8RHhtz_8K-ArHJ4_wizOU18tPq35WDqaHHUMdFE36aUB03RCCNipJZTQlZMfYAQTLnLcT3vbTulVxyjylcUQstJWDGxAvLu1tVc95XL1qKL7Sf4z3XfRjgV1erLd29tnxDvTzZcOco7hYQ/s886/waypoints%20moved%20to%20clear%20islands.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="710" data-original-width="886" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWzRfRvKQg22YN3Lb_pfHfPjYxzNNxuUiV0wuOds7a-8RHhtz_8K-ArHJ4_wizOU18tPq35WDqaHHUMdFE36aUB03RCCNipJZTQlZMfYAQTLnLcT3vbTulVxyjylcUQstJWDGxAvLu1tVc95XL1qKL7Sf4z3XfRjgV1erLd29tnxDvTzZcOco7hYQ/w560-h448/waypoints%20moved%20to%20clear%20islands.png" width="560" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both the new waypoints have been moved, this part of the route is now clear and other obsticals cane be looked for. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsV2Eg0hRhvNdGgKtmFmtChDN1UCdYXZypdwzlebFnGv4m5qNUElKujP2zKSdXnBA7v4bdgEAO6STlNrBWMze9yXDrlmwa_3Ulnd2yhBnBDbb2nGL54Y0riUJjbG1xDkVZ6JjvBI6Dfin1x_gq0EtcIYRJste9_A28q9sP4hQs2fpK7D9ihQo2U2-4/s884/waypoints%20moved%20example%20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="884" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsV2Eg0hRhvNdGgKtmFmtChDN1UCdYXZypdwzlebFnGv4m5qNUElKujP2zKSdXnBA7v4bdgEAO6STlNrBWMze9yXDrlmwa_3Ulnd2yhBnBDbb2nGL54Y0riUJjbG1xDkVZ6JjvBI6Dfin1x_gq0EtcIYRJste9_A28q9sP4hQs2fpK7D9ihQo2U2-4/w620-h498/waypoints%20moved%20example%20.png" width="620" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At a scale similar to the first example.</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">You may also like to look at:</p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-setting-chartscale-to-display.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints<br /></a><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-selecting-default-waypoint-icons.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons</a><br /><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-stop-accidental-waypoint-moves.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves</a></span></div></div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-add-waypoints-into-route.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route</a>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-59388675994715819882023-01-30T09:40:00.004+10:002023-02-06T16:45:08.748+10:00OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints<p><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;">Setting the default chart scale to display new waypoints</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;">On the toolbar go to the Options/Ships/Routes/Points tab and fill in the scale you would like to see the waypoint text disappear from view on the chart. I have found different areas can benefit from having the text hidden from view at a low scale. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;"> When I zoom out to get a better overall idea of a coast line I find that it can become hard to look at the chart with the waypoint text cluttering the screen. I select the Show waypoints only at a chart scale greater than 1: and my preference is 1: 5000000. This of course can be changed easily however it really is a personal choice. When this options is selected any new waypoint created will have this scale as the default, you will however also need to go into the extended properties of the waypoint and make sure the function is selected. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fwiOqm_KixEC0EtJePla76NUkL5lH0N6UqBmkwQWHLXLbvsBZFjFZlep0XXrxyZJRi485wLIHbbtBI71uu73pr1qNl4RF-G13K9O6JEFIFumd6fvgHjAkJMEoHBTeR8i03NAB7Tlve9ldCEvq0fCi-_exPZiyFS_LdR9sy7PV0ozFJHGRa6L9Y79/s940/setting%20waypoint%20display%20scale.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="940" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fwiOqm_KixEC0EtJePla76NUkL5lH0N6UqBmkwQWHLXLbvsBZFjFZlep0XXrxyZJRi485wLIHbbtBI71uu73pr1qNl4RF-G13K9O6JEFIFumd6fvgHjAkJMEoHBTeR8i03NAB7Tlve9ldCEvq0fCi-_exPZiyFS_LdR9sy7PV0ozFJHGRa6L9Y79/w533-h412/setting%20waypoint%20display%20scale.png" width="533" /></a><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I select a scale with a little trial and error, I adjust the number to suit the section of chart. I use 1:5000000 as a starting point, it really depends on the number of waypoints in the area to what scale I use. </td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAk3cNw_Fj-WUv4fTaq33KgBqxYqAWfmcUogjfs8slGkfoPhWBVYeYTGfFiECZa-XpSxtDXuUcNqN77HpDJ9jbrBciJl5M2bTrRBNhOKwlHrQhceTNkK83IWRlsFtmhmQW_hLzCNNBBwenXkW-mArMzyYfr455-luEjzfnU_y1Nzn44h6niBfnQCup/s638/waypoint%20properties%201%20to%205000000.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="504" height="499" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAk3cNw_Fj-WUv4fTaq33KgBqxYqAWfmcUogjfs8slGkfoPhWBVYeYTGfFiECZa-XpSxtDXuUcNqN77HpDJ9jbrBciJl5M2bTrRBNhOKwlHrQhceTNkK83IWRlsFtmhmQW_hLzCNNBBwenXkW-mArMzyYfr455-luEjzfnU_y1Nzn44h6niBfnQCup/w394-h499/waypoint%20properties%201%20to%205000000.png" width="394" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A waypoint set to display at a scale greater than 1:5000000 </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Below is an example of not having any scale set, all the waypoints will be displayed at any scale the chart is set to. This can also have the side effect of slowing the computer due to the additional resources used to display this much data. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><blockquote></blockquote><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVwO1wczI1vh_LeADA7U585tr7kw5IMUrSkFstocCs-wsr1WMSwMTRLz1AxvYRbK4z7X4QdFJSZGvFitq14n3eMlSC6xZ5aw12PUjecTQq94fK4QQLCl_bbmeW_JoHlTwJ6dvM2ONSwiqZDFHlj8NSjHJDP4_wpT0C1vWoKLicWzbUOXBp8Xcw3eD/s986/no%20scaling%20set.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="715" data-original-width="986" height="455" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVwO1wczI1vh_LeADA7U585tr7kw5IMUrSkFstocCs-wsr1WMSwMTRLz1AxvYRbK4z7X4QdFJSZGvFitq14n3eMlSC6xZ5aw12PUjecTQq94fK4QQLCl_bbmeW_JoHlTwJ6dvM2ONSwiqZDFHlj8NSjHJDP4_wpT0C1vWoKLicWzbUOXBp8Xcw3eD/w628-h455/no%20scaling%20set.png" width="628" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A chart displayed with no scale set for the waypoint text to disappear, the chart can become cluttered as seen here and the PC can react badly due to the resources used to display this amount of data. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlG9od9aJCZrHtJv8kcm8htzPrSgAsGyjT3XpFuV1sPmYpJ4SlsF7FThpfnm_AmJV_qyHKV3Z92il6y9mE_zcTJAjqRNLMfUGvHYkw6_SuTtsqhPRbi8T1nvRvmzB3L13TO9b7dXKTZtsIvZQamT5TRT9ATTyOEZWVaAJLt8LaqtJVmAy1UtsW1K1/s1062/scale%201%20%20%20540000%20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="717" data-original-width="1062" height="455" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlG9od9aJCZrHtJv8kcm8htzPrSgAsGyjT3XpFuV1sPmYpJ4SlsF7FThpfnm_AmJV_qyHKV3Z92il6y9mE_zcTJAjqRNLMfUGvHYkw6_SuTtsqhPRbi8T1nvRvmzB3L13TO9b7dXKTZtsIvZQamT5TRT9ATTyOEZWVaAJLt8LaqtJVmAy1UtsW1K1/w674-h455/scale%201%20%20%20540000%20.png" width="674" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another example, these waypoints are set to disappear with a scale greater that 1:900000 while it is a little hard to see in the screenshot the scale now is 1:540000</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF26yWmyqoUOTM6D92ex6p02qu4PZA47Ld3URL0sXBIaCoHHHuSWabekyc0_0OHGDsH5W0bnQSR-QsIuiAbeN5PxfBsY-HC1FH598s7Esxx1qfbeT_5qdIQ-TrsJHH7RhH5ZIafiij_GnvlLjdYj92VV04c75tHlVZIEJBEwE0tvLeVrmf11KznGeL/s1043/scale%201%20%20%201.1mm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="1043" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF26yWmyqoUOTM6D92ex6p02qu4PZA47Ld3URL0sXBIaCoHHHuSWabekyc0_0OHGDsH5W0bnQSR-QsIuiAbeN5PxfBsY-HC1FH598s7Esxx1qfbeT_5qdIQ-TrsJHH7RhH5ZIafiij_GnvlLjdYj92VV04c75tHlVZIEJBEwE0tvLeVrmf11KznGeL/w609-h407/scale%201%20%20%201.1mm.png" width="609" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The same chart with the scale now at 1:1.1MM, certain details of the chart are easier to see without the waypoint text, and the laptop doesn't work as hard. </td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpjO-PImiY7oGjycEHCpN9t7eHcpx2tzBMCJ08gVY4K7CkL1XLaAluKByQ4E32XQBS-QM_fjVdhRbM1_z-qdp9j7pMKUqXacyNkhma_ZRPsUX53Q7J9qVkk_7vJ8WvbX66XPzbVsQYSMa4NLZ8x_ZSltM84cTkv-XgeboUv7-0V2QnRw2czUkv94h/s599/scale%20set%20at%201%20900000.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="398" height="495" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpjO-PImiY7oGjycEHCpN9t7eHcpx2tzBMCJ08gVY4K7CkL1XLaAluKByQ4E32XQBS-QM_fjVdhRbM1_z-qdp9j7pMKUqXacyNkhma_ZRPsUX53Q7J9qVkk_7vJ8WvbX66XPzbVsQYSMa4NLZ8x_ZSltM84cTkv-XgeboUv7-0V2QnRw2czUkv94h/w329-h495/scale%20set%20at%201%20900000.png" width="329" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The waypoint properties of one of the waypoints, showing the scale of 1:900000</td></tr></tbody></table><br />You may also like to look at:<div><br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-setting-chartscale-to-display.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints<br /></a><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-selecting-default-waypoint-icons.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons</a><br /><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-stop-accidental-waypoint-moves.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves</a></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-add-waypoints-into-route.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route</a></div></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-25361535808622960782023-01-30T09:40:00.003+10:002023-02-01T09:19:10.541+10:00OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves<p> <span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;">How to stop accidentally moving waypoints. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;">There is an option to lock the waypoints in place so they cannot be accidentally moved during normal operations. Don't worry it is still possible to move the waypoints later by click and dragging them, however to do this requires the Waypoint Properties dialogue box to be open, then simply drag the waypoint into the new place and let go. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: "Liberation Serif", serif;">A big advantage to doing it this way is that these waypoints or routes can’t be accidentally changed, something I was previously always doing. Once a waypoint had accidentally been moved, it was hard to get it back to where it was previously even using the undo function, as I have found the waypoint can often be moved a couple of times before being noticed as out of place. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;">If you haven't set up your copy of OpenCPN to not allow waypoints to be accidentally moved the first thing to do is go here: On the toolbar go to the Options/Ships/Routes/Points tab and select the button to lock the waypoints in place. </span></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Zf3x4jo9qX3XW8tzKwUazXV7AAnNW6o069tIaLrver2TPAY_UFla9nOj6BOQAfh1Cza-B4l8d7--Si1h2HwJYeUFaIuzipy91Cd1GQmuDCZ-h5b1OxXBqOym7bM5sHqsbDBTi3wmpdGrJm5ZwlHUtCopC6nGYSZA_Yml3U0l2R7ZrezmqfOmPwgy/s725/opencpn%20toolbar%20to%20open%20options.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="725" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Zf3x4jo9qX3XW8tzKwUazXV7AAnNW6o069tIaLrver2TPAY_UFla9nOj6BOQAfh1Cza-B4l8d7--Si1h2HwJYeUFaIuzipy91Cd1GQmuDCZ-h5b1OxXBqOym7bM5sHqsbDBTi3wmpdGrJm5ZwlHUtCopC6nGYSZA_Yml3U0l2R7ZrezmqfOmPwgy/w578-h578/opencpn%20toolbar%20to%20open%20options.png" width="578" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Options Tab on the tool bar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5pBzAmeL2ecxNvEO2sW3vjegqhPBJQqaILzdbkisPvQEGa9P9zkbXTWG5N-oNSWPlH8KGd7gBtkicyopq6Yf_QIJraIeUowoWZQgflgCKVPVesYRPwt5Wwq66Ec7sFN3zZgW8Z-azmoDBrsMgqVyblWUiVEqSk74Biu5g8SPkg4scdgbN53GMn_X/s940/lock%20the%20waypoints%202.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="940" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr5pBzAmeL2ecxNvEO2sW3vjegqhPBJQqaILzdbkisPvQEGa9P9zkbXTWG5N-oNSWPlH8KGd7gBtkicyopq6Yf_QIJraIeUowoWZQgflgCKVPVesYRPwt5Wwq66Ec7sFN3zZgW8Z-azmoDBrsMgqVyblWUiVEqSk74Biu5g8SPkg4scdgbN53GMn_X/w557-h430/lock%20the%20waypoints%202.png" width="557" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Go to the Ships then open the tab Routes/Points. Select the function to lock the waypoint ( unless waypoint property box is open)</td></tr></tbody></table></p><p style="line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p><div>Your done</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-setting-chartscale-to-display.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN setting chartscale to display waypoints</a><br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-selecting-default-waypoint-icons.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Selecting default waypoint Icons</a><br /><span style="font-family: Liberation Serif, serif;"><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-stop-accidental-waypoint-moves.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Stop Accidental Waypoint Moves</a></span><div><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-add-waypoints-into-route.html" target="_blank">OpenCPN Add Waypoints Into A Route</a><p style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /></p></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-41316922588918149382023-01-24T16:07:00.003+10:002023-02-03T06:19:13.044+10:00AIS an overview<div style="text-align: left;">Recently I was reading a vent from a cruiser describing how dangerous it can be to use an AIS to avoid close quarter situations. From what I could work out they had not long installed an AIS, and by the sounds of it had problems either operating it or they relied heavily on the data but didn’t know how to interpret the information. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The author then continued on and had nothing good to say about the system at all. I must admit I was a little taken back by the comments. While I am sure their experience wasn’t nice I do wonder if they did have a better understanding of the system whether their encounter would have been totally different. The good news is they didn’t get hurt and I think only their pride was dented, unfortunately they didn’t expand on vessel types and just how close the situation became.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWs9_mfhSyr3XCFIcNtm_svnpIHqwf8p37ITq_C1W6_u6eX3-42YduwxFvH4OoR104EkaF5RdgDxg0da4gHnI16yL_AT03g0J126_OpZgvOrwoJ6858P0NmOXbpVEHdXUbVGHU1mx32In1cnh1gIOLPpN6UgT3AwaQCLM2TKrTEA_Tt2IX5lopvq_F/s1364/OMG%20looks%20out%20of%20control%20but%20its%20not%20as%20bad%20as%20it%20looks%20even%20though%20there%20many%20AIS%20targets.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="1364" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWs9_mfhSyr3XCFIcNtm_svnpIHqwf8p37ITq_C1W6_u6eX3-42YduwxFvH4OoR104EkaF5RdgDxg0da4gHnI16yL_AT03g0J126_OpZgvOrwoJ6858P0NmOXbpVEHdXUbVGHU1mx32In1cnh1gIOLPpN6UgT3AwaQCLM2TKrTEA_Tt2IX5lopvq_F/w629-h326/OMG%20looks%20out%20of%20control%20but%20its%20not%20as%20bad%20as%20it%20looks%20even%20though%20there%20many%20AIS%20targets.PNG" width="629" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AIS targets around Singapore Strait, while it looks out of control, zoom in and concentrate on the task at hand, this makes it an easy job for the AIS to enhance watchkeeping, keeping the vessel and crew safe. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">On the other hand we have had nothing but positive experiences over the last 9 years and it has taken the heat off what could have been a developing close quarter’s situation several times. However it’s not all developing close quarter situations that the AIS system has helped to keep us and other vessels out of danger, but more on this later. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKeOQFNBnpBRNpGLXjP6AxP3kPv5gz-2A_J9WzmV_LhpsYwosxo_qciNOu2hwe34fJxyzefZ_uHJAjqqJEp2hOsMVEjY7x0Dzjq-8CqCTXUAvz0pUk1GA1P8FnkV8KOnNQfhPYw_yC3ZVTlDuhHDsJsL3Nqh1JYG8YyWBQcBoeQ-BfVzqSk9zXE3U/s1365/On%20the%20look%20out%20crossing%20the%20strait.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="647" data-original-width="1365" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKeOQFNBnpBRNpGLXjP6AxP3kPv5gz-2A_J9WzmV_LhpsYwosxo_qciNOu2hwe34fJxyzefZ_uHJAjqqJEp2hOsMVEjY7x0Dzjq-8CqCTXUAvz0pUk1GA1P8FnkV8KOnNQfhPYw_yC3ZVTlDuhHDsJsL3Nqh1JYG8YyWBQcBoeQ-BfVzqSk9zXE3U/w564-h268/On%20the%20look%20out%20crossing%20the%20strait.PNG" width="564" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoom in and get a better idea of the surrounding vessels that may pose a threat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I do know that AIS has become very popular with the sailing community and when sailing offshore its more likely to see private vessels fitted with AIS transponders than those without. I would like to give an over view of the AIS system, then I would like to talk about some of the errors we have seen and hopefully give an explanation how to spot these. If you can spot the errors early you may not fall into the trap like the cruiser mentioned earlier. </div><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">What is AIS?</span></b></p><p>As the acronym suggests it’s a vessel Automatic Identification System. This system possibly one of the most substantial advances in navigation safety and an aid to sailors since the introduction of GPS (Global Positioning System) and RADAR (RAdio Detection And Ranging). Simply put, the AIS is a VHF (Very High Frequency) radio broadcasting system that transfers packets of data over a VHF Data Link (VDL). This enables AIS equipped vessels and shore-based stations to send and receive identification information that can be displayed on an integrated display, computer or chart plotter.</p><p> Getting slightly technical, AIS operates on two dedicated channels in the marine VHF frequency band. The centre of the frequency is 162.000MHz. The two dedicated VHF frequencies used for AIS are; AIS 1 161.975 MHz (channel 87B) and AIS 2 162.025 MHz (channel 88B). </p><p>When used with a graphical display, this information can help create situational awareness and provide a means to assist in collision avoidance. Additionally, AIS can be used as an aid to navigation, by providing location and additional information on buoys and lights. AIS uses a Time-Division Multiple Access (TDMA) scheme to share the VHF Data Link.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioED6cVrK22bP1EdtY9hVbHk2TfClFYoX4kYi90X8_mH88MZS_s6nlxux15cRbzs0qjEAD_XgxApglJe1PiS5ZslE_t8LVKknE0nqc3-nwdcpN0bSeipC1JdBJKGPNlMKLN6X3M3-I-etgpdbTNbX0OPq-o7YWD5nIQMsHlbmHUD43kamH4KuvrzUJ/s1364/Lots%20to%20see%20-%20Base%20Stations-%20Vessels%20at%20anchor%20as%20well%20as%20NUC%20RAM%20CBD%20AtoN%20off%20position%20AIS%20targets.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="1364" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioED6cVrK22bP1EdtY9hVbHk2TfClFYoX4kYi90X8_mH88MZS_s6nlxux15cRbzs0qjEAD_XgxApglJe1PiS5ZslE_t8LVKknE0nqc3-nwdcpN0bSeipC1JdBJKGPNlMKLN6X3M3-I-etgpdbTNbX0OPq-o7YWD5nIQMsHlbmHUD43kamH4KuvrzUJ/w663-h344/Lots%20to%20see%20-%20Base%20Stations-%20Vessels%20at%20anchor%20as%20well%20as%20NUC%20RAM%20CBD%20AtoN%20off%20position%20AIS%20targets.jpg" width="663" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots to see - Base Stations- Vessels at anchor as well as NUC RAM CBD in transit, AtoN off position and ship AIS targets. While this is a crazy busy water way simply zooming in the chartplotter can make a big difference to how we can process the information.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>There is a multitude of automatic equipment transmitting AIS messages, to avoid conflict, the radio frequency space is organized in frames. The VDL is divided into 2250 time slots that are repeated every 60 seconds (one frame) and each AIS vessel in range sends a report to one of the time slots. At the same time, every AIS vessel in range is listening to all the timeslots and can read the reported information. As transmission can happen on two channels, there are 4500 slots per minute. </p><p><b>What types of AIS are there?</b></p><p>There is one system but as with a lot of things marine there are different classes. There are AIS mobile units and AIS stations. </p><div style="text-align: left;">AIS Class A and AIS Class B: <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>AIS carried on board vessels. <br />AIS Base Stations: <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>AIS used for shore stations <br />AIS AtoN: <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>AIS Aids to Navigation<br />AIS SART: <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>AIS Search and Rescue Transmitters<br />SAR aircraft: <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>AIS fitted to Search and Rescue Aircraft<br />AIS MOB: <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>AIS Man Overboard units / personal beacons /lifejacket units </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">AIS is included in the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) convention for: <br />Vessels of 300 gross tonnage and upwards engaged on international voyages.<br />Vessels of 500 gross tonnage and upwards not engaged on international voyages as well as passenger ships irrespective of size. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4h79ptx1Ts9eIMSBF4OMA_c75BIRt6nTHFiR8-kgxP4P_f20vj5_AlGnAC601SmQefYpFKH9FulwqjmEU5FIl3NU9lriqEycV5Yktttmj6QxI08Ttx91OP0I6ijqP_D5aOpYyqo3ZefoEC2QaZL_9Aoj0Dawz8ENZN0ILcyWZK2nOLJaXBPQsn6S/s5472/A%20typical%20tug%20and%20tow.%20Tug%20is%20not%20big%20enough%20for%20mandatory%20fitting%20of%20an%20AIS%20for%20domestic%20use.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4h79ptx1Ts9eIMSBF4OMA_c75BIRt6nTHFiR8-kgxP4P_f20vj5_AlGnAC601SmQefYpFKH9FulwqjmEU5FIl3NU9lriqEycV5Yktttmj6QxI08Ttx91OP0I6ijqP_D5aOpYyqo3ZefoEC2QaZL_9Aoj0Dawz8ENZN0ILcyWZK2nOLJaXBPQsn6S/w541-h360/A%20typical%20tug%20and%20tow.%20Tug%20is%20not%20big%20enough%20for%20mandatory%20fitting%20of%20an%20AIS%20for%20domestic%20use.JPG" width="541" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical tug and tow. Tug is not big enough for mandatory fitting of an AIS for domestic use unfortunately the length of tow doesnt come into the equation</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The AIS referred to in the SOLAS convention is often termed ‘AIS Class A’. AIS Class B is intended for use on non-SOLAS vessels. A non-SOLAS vessel is a vessel to which the SOLAS convention does not apply. These can include pleasure and domestic commercial vessels. AIS Class B units have less functionality than AIS Class A units but they operate and communicate with AIS Class A units and other types of AIS units. So this means you will find some smaller commercial vessels fitted with AIS Class B transponders, this is something to be aware of when you’re out there looking for a pleasure boat and it’s really an old tanker. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIkf_jm9sqgRuJBphyxvAOHjtG4jxBstWGTL9FPR4S2gtqhc_G3JgT8YMz64AWvg2t-HTH02IuI1Is1KIQ1NfaK3QwTfkdW7UGHojTh_u9uYPB3J2fz_PwWbV-4xq2gbyYIYSX569euwuTc9_shxzPEZegTNLylPbithP6XtoQPdlVIJMCaF_hydm/s4608/350%20metres%20long%20at%2020%20knots%20you%20dont%20want%20to%20get%20this%20wrong.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="397" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIkf_jm9sqgRuJBphyxvAOHjtG4jxBstWGTL9FPR4S2gtqhc_G3JgT8YMz64AWvg2t-HTH02IuI1Is1KIQ1NfaK3QwTfkdW7UGHojTh_u9uYPB3J2fz_PwWbV-4xq2gbyYIYSX569euwuTc9_shxzPEZegTNLylPbithP6XtoQPdlVIJMCaF_hydm/w530-h397/350%20metres%20long%20at%2020%20knots%20you%20dont%20want%20to%20get%20this%20wrong.JPG" width="530" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Class A Transceivers are designed for large commercial vessels, </span>350 metres long at 20 knots you don't want to get this wrong, and an AIS helps with the calculations of how much clearance you have when passing.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Class A Transceivers are designed for large commercial vessels. The system offers many features and benefits to larger vessels and these include:<br />12.5W transmission power<br />Comprehensive connectivity options, for connecting to on board systems (e.g. gyro, ships primary positioning, rate of turn indicator, log, ships internal network, via satellite to ships shore office)<br />Large screen for viewing targets<br />Mini keyboard and display<br />Enhanced environmental protection<br />Pilot plug<br />SOTDMA (Self Organised Time Division Multiple Access) transmission type<br />Three receivers (2 X AIS 1 X DSC)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Flexible transmission timing depending on voyage status (for example the speed the vessel traveling at)<br />Enhanced transmission type ensures all AIS data should get through</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_3eOHHwKQZIrHHBDx23Z66Pr5Zd8QbCsQ2Umhj8iMhm57c3EjnYm0bU6l3M3sHld423oUlxvgdLk1DJZgbl6MxkFYaZ_9zUMZqA5ZhOyzkWNRC-zzn8oqBdiC4-TfjwFTgMudl36e2anPjg8TkZfi37hjy9AH901NScOh15fpboCAGyey_XJBkss/s6000/If%20you%20cant%20see%20all%20the%20bridge%20windows%20they%20very%20possibly%20wont%20have%20a%20visual%20on%20you.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_3eOHHwKQZIrHHBDx23Z66Pr5Zd8QbCsQ2Umhj8iMhm57c3EjnYm0bU6l3M3sHld423oUlxvgdLk1DJZgbl6MxkFYaZ_9zUMZqA5ZhOyzkWNRC-zzn8oqBdiC4-TfjwFTgMudl36e2anPjg8TkZfi37hjy9AH901NScOh15fpboCAGyey_XJBkss/w531-h354/If%20you%20cant%20see%20all%20the%20bridge%20windows%20they%20very%20possibly%20wont%20have%20a%20visual%20on%20you.JPG" width="531" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you cant see all the bridge windows they very possibly wont have a visual on you, and at this range with their RADAR placement they will possibly miss your little return, however the AIS signal should get through. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Due to their specifications, Class A devices are aimed at large commercial or passenger vessels. This is due to many factors including the extra power, space and antenna requirements. Class A devices are larger than other AIS devices due to the features included inside, they also require two antennas to ensure their data gets through, and output more power to maximise range. The main benefit of Class A devices is the increased range and 100% assurance that the AIS data will get through to the AIS slot map. Class A devices use SOTDMA to transmit their data. This is a system that reserves their data slots and therefore ensures their data gets through into the data stream.</div><p><b>Class B transceivers</b> offer vessels most of the AIS features of Class A devices, but without some of the requirements needed for larger vessels. </p><div style="text-align: left;">Class B devices offer:</div><div style="text-align: left;">Lower power, 2W, transmission output<br />Multiple connectivity option outputs to satisfy different display protocols <br />Same number of transmitters and receivers as Class A, but used differently<br />Active GPS antenna/receiver incorporated in the device<br />Not interfaced to a compass / gyro, (brand dependant) so heading information rarely transmitted<br />Not interfaced to a computer system so voyage status is cannot be input and so is not transmitted <br />Class B units operate using CSTDMA (Carrier Sense Time Division Multiple Access) </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZDX_IVNymirc0MJH6N_S5ip0WiZ_V90ZLEoI6Bzel-brYgw8dbecqOceWy4GOIC-m0O4Y3u_S-e7XgFkibfGiOecFIZtElkStEe_oPDQ2F4sK8OCyiv3cjzAoWna1kDY2sQjGX91D5GmKfknSZycGjM_VUayRdi-4Lh007deL5mmYEfAErqZUkJg/s2185/Seen%20in%20the%20wild.%20Class%20B%20Cargo%20ship.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2185" data-original-width="1729" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZDX_IVNymirc0MJH6N_S5ip0WiZ_V90ZLEoI6Bzel-brYgw8dbecqOceWy4GOIC-m0O4Y3u_S-e7XgFkibfGiOecFIZtElkStEe_oPDQ2F4sK8OCyiv3cjzAoWna1kDY2sQjGX91D5GmKfknSZycGjM_VUayRdi-4Lh007deL5mmYEfAErqZUkJg/s320/Seen%20in%20the%20wild.%20Class%20B%20Cargo%20ship.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As seen in the wild a Class B cargo ship.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Class B units are designed for smaller vessels with fewer power options, less space and fewer antennas than a large commercial vessel. The lower transmission power means their range is significantly less than a Class A device, but this is compensated by the anticipated stopping distance in an emergency situation of the vessel compared to a large commercial vessel. The use of low wattage output was to give a range of five to ten miles. However, with the height of the antennas on sailing vessels and ships the truth of the matter is that distances of up to 24 miles are not uncommon in the right conditions. Also, the devices are a lot smaller than a Class A device, ensuring they can be installed quickly and integrated to different chart plotters or displays. Output to the on board chart plotter or display is the standard AIS data stream at 38.400 kilobit per second and can be RS232 and/or NMEA formats, the NMEA formats can be 0183 or the newer NMEA2000. Due to space requirements smaller vessels rarely use a second antenna for the AIS. Most Class B vessels use an antenna splitter to share use of the antenna between the VHF radio and AIS device. CSTDMA type devices are regarded as polite devices as they scan (listen) for available slots and send their data into free space. They use both spare time slots and, to utilise the AIS slot map as efficiently as possible, use any available space in slots not reserved by Class A devices. </div><p>Fishing vessels may be required to carry AIS, but any vessel may switch off its AIS if the master / captain believes continual operation may compromise the safety or security of the vessel.</p><br /><p>Base stations offer a link between vessels sailing within range and are able to relay information from AtoN’s to a monitoring or command centre that may be located inland. Shore-based AIS transceiver operates using SOTDMA. Base stations have a complex set of features and functions. Due to these features and functions base stations are able to control the AIS system and all devices operating therein. There is the ability to interrogate individual transceivers for status reports and or transmit frequency changes. FATDMA (Fixed Access Time Division Multiple Access) is also used by base stations, FATDMA allocated slots are used for repetitive messages. AIS base stations offer the chance to form an AIS network along a country's coastline that can enhance national security. Base station equipment can offer many different connections and data formats, allowing connections for many different display systems, including PCs, chart plotter displays, or wireless enabled devices. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84tjmAjvoe1v4R9owvsxXfXUtRsM34jsrsE31AnLz_yU7tZ015BFxWxA7ZZ5SLgNppUwLavopiabwMS-9mBZPO1duKYq7PFd4dwNi2AnRaTUBAEhBhM3Ag2RIDdZff2TWOSO--3ZuQUKIdiWxaFDwzHs3FEtJ73JH7gL5sJ0Ck4OVGHNByH0SZVQ3/s1725/Port%20Klang%20with%20AtoN's%20Real%20are%20high%20lighted%20by%20red%20arrows%20The%20Virtual%20AtoN%20has%20a%20yellow%20arrow%20The%20red%20and%20yellow%20arrows%20drawn%20in%20by%20author%20for%20reference.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1277" data-original-width="1725" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84tjmAjvoe1v4R9owvsxXfXUtRsM34jsrsE31AnLz_yU7tZ015BFxWxA7ZZ5SLgNppUwLavopiabwMS-9mBZPO1duKYq7PFd4dwNi2AnRaTUBAEhBhM3Ag2RIDdZff2TWOSO--3ZuQUKIdiWxaFDwzHs3FEtJ73JH7gL5sJ0Ck4OVGHNByH0SZVQ3/w642-h475/Port%20Klang%20with%20AtoN's%20Real%20are%20high%20lighted%20by%20red%20arrows%20The%20Virtual%20AtoN%20has%20a%20yellow%20arrow%20The%20red%20and%20yellow%20arrows%20drawn%20in%20by%20author%20for%20reference.jpg" width="642" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port Klang with AtoN's Real are high lighted by red arrows The Virtual AtoN has a yellow arrow The red and yellow arrows drawn in by author for reference</td></tr></tbody></table><p>AtoN units can be deployed on land or out at sea and have many benefits to both mariners and coastal monitoring centres. The key difference between the two types of AtoN is their power consumption. Keep in mind the AtoN stationed out at sea must rely on the power generated at the buoy, mostly done by using solar panels. An AtoN will use one of the two different types of transmission RATDMA (Random Access Time Division Multiple Access) or FATDMA (Fixed Access Time Division Multiple Access). Devices that use the FATDMA transmission type have their slots on the AIS slot map controlled by an AIS base station(s) ashore. This ensures their transmissions get through, while also keeping power consumption down. AtoN using RATDMA type transmission will use more power as they behave like a Class B device and must be powered up and running prior to sending so the unit can scan for available space on the slot map. To increase the range of an AtoN chaining can be used and this also has the added benefit of an increase in the range of base stations that monitor traffic along the coastline. These AtoN buoys / fixed beacons / light houses have the possibility of also housing sensor units that monitor metrological and hydrological data along with the AIS AtoN unit.</p><p>AIS SART: AIS Search And Rescue Transmitters</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyRHtQ0k6J8xmj2CPKhoGSjKmVJzdj7C14F-k9Z1U7PUMzTU3yyxgRy7NB-4wNGy9ec5wOno0FxTe-X_YKHBiTFjaAaWFvZ-rquBiDv4R0L7KeyVemh6RqogKdy6k31QUkZnKnJ2N6DSQMN75nkehnYQRYlEYM_6yzDEJlbr9ZXCxxjpBsmSK9AA3/s537/SAR%20aircraft.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="537" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyRHtQ0k6J8xmj2CPKhoGSjKmVJzdj7C14F-k9Z1U7PUMzTU3yyxgRy7NB-4wNGy9ec5wOno0FxTe-X_YKHBiTFjaAaWFvZ-rquBiDv4R0L7KeyVemh6RqogKdy6k31QUkZnKnJ2N6DSQMN75nkehnYQRYlEYM_6yzDEJlbr9ZXCxxjpBsmSK9AA3/w446-h417/SAR%20aircraft.JPG" width="446" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A SAR aircraft can be seen and on the chartplotter capture. Pilot helicopters also have AIS fitted and can be seen as they are coming and going dropping off or picking up the pilot. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>In an emergency situation, mariners have predominantly used a RADAR SART as a means to alert ships of their location if they are in distress. Unfortunately the RADAR SART has to be in the beam of the SAR ships RADAR to display a position on the RADAR screen. However, an AIS SART can offer many benefits including the ability to be seen around headlands, up rivers or behind islands, it doesn’t need a RADAR beam to activate it. AIS SART offer enhanced location finding in an emergency, by transmitting the position, heading and speed of the ship in distress / life raft's with the AIS data eight times in a minute. A safety message ‘SART ACTIVE’ is sent every four minutes. This is the primary benefit over other technology as it allows SAR vessels / aircraft to track and plan a course to intersect, and rescue the vessel occupants. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpFolC5VF2OSYL62WJo-LRv1KIFE-StuMxUerVItgbfaLOfnoG2G_kh4CS-y1s8CS9704VE46vEU7fIOAX8gk73rImS6_25bvl4Y-TrddQpOyFutRYFY2ehb9UM_WmRT3lcNKLoURt6cI7FO0MZSipqACOjUTvb42c76sXpdK1Inp5gfnhco9Fl2g/s2000/SART%20Activated%20Chart%20Plotter%20Drawing%20Passage%20to%20Distressed%20Vessel.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1956" data-original-width="2000" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpFolC5VF2OSYL62WJo-LRv1KIFE-StuMxUerVItgbfaLOfnoG2G_kh4CS-y1s8CS9704VE46vEU7fIOAX8gk73rImS6_25bvl4Y-TrddQpOyFutRYFY2ehb9UM_WmRT3lcNKLoURt6cI7FO0MZSipqACOjUTvb42c76sXpdK1Inp5gfnhco9Fl2g/w404-h395/SART%20Activated%20Chart%20Plotter%20Drawing%20Passage%20to%20Distressed%20Vessel.jpg" width="404" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SART Activated Chart Plotter Drawing Passage to Distressed Vessel</td></tr></tbody></table><p>A SART will use PATDMA (Pre Announced Time Division Multiple Access) as they continuously transmit but don’t receive. A SART does not Man Overboard units / personal beacons /lifejacket units receive any data, it’s just a transmitting device. The device sends the information often to ensure that the vessel in distress is at the peak of a wave on at least one of the transmissions helping to maximise the range of the one watt transmitter.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLlcTcrAplc1qNS0MSp8pnqy8GQB_N3gNUdqZFydcmGy1tjrxr4wbsu5-8uwUpQlFEeXkD0kZsDRjAeDUbKFLC555IGZybia9BQh62t1O4W8PUZutmXTvZWLtyNpQZdvShCCF2ul3IFpu_ZnQh1S6LSP0yaj3R12K6HnSedrGW2Gx32k3gcxYZd_Q/s738/SAR%20Aircraft.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="738" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLlcTcrAplc1qNS0MSp8pnqy8GQB_N3gNUdqZFydcmGy1tjrxr4wbsu5-8uwUpQlFEeXkD0kZsDRjAeDUbKFLC555IGZybia9BQh62t1O4W8PUZutmXTvZWLtyNpQZdvShCCF2ul3IFpu_ZnQh1S6LSP0yaj3R12K6HnSedrGW2Gx32k3gcxYZd_Q/w549-h500/SAR%20Aircraft.PNG" width="549" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two SAR aircraft</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p>SAR aircraft: AIS fitted to Search and Rescue Aircraft to aid search and rescue tracking AIS SART’s. However most systems display a SART once activated, I know both my ship board display units come up with a warning that a SART has been activated, then the system will ask if I want to lay a course to steer to an active SART. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9qv6U6H2RuZBlkrU03SbysO46WUF4tO32sEnsnHODr48-GC9sf5O6n-z3vsYnFaVUR7uq73P_qzfLTKJW08nATraWScRk_rP-te_BQjhN9z3ygrMVsQwStwo-9SRCm8XrOQ5jtFzYtFRPXFo3G6N_BwHBqnFWYmdwhPm7y-m-lCfuQF87fcgLyqJ/s1705/SAR%20vessel.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1705" data-original-width="1101" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9qv6U6H2RuZBlkrU03SbysO46WUF4tO32sEnsnHODr48-GC9sf5O6n-z3vsYnFaVUR7uq73P_qzfLTKJW08nATraWScRk_rP-te_BQjhN9z3ygrMVsQwStwo-9SRCm8XrOQ5jtFzYtFRPXFo3G6N_BwHBqnFWYmdwhPm7y-m-lCfuQF87fcgLyqJ/w259-h401/SAR%20vessel.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Search and Rescue vessel </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>AIS MOB</b>: </p><p><b>Know the difference between an AIS PLB and a PLB</b></p><p>There are PLB’s (personal locating beacon) and AIS PLB’s, make sure you get to know the difference between an AIS MOB beacon, also known as an AIS PLB and a PLB so you purchase the correct one for your needs. </p><p><b>Step one</b>: While these AIS units are not new on the market, before purchasing a beacon check if the one you are thinking of purchasing is authorised with AMSA and ACMA (Australian Communications and Media Authority) to be on the AIS network. (Some are not due to the transmission type)</p><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Step two</b>: it's imperative to know how your boat's electronics will react to an AIS MOB transmission. If your AIS system/ chartplotter won’t display the AIS PLB then it could turn out to be a costly exercise upgrading the AIS display unit. The primary reason for the purchase in the first place is self-rescue, unfortunately not all AIS display devices do it correctly yet. <br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Step three</b>: The positive side of testing is that it is important to know how to activate the device manually before you find yourself trying to figure it out in desperate circumstances. Remember that even if it's supposed to activate automatically, sometimes things go wrong with the automatic function for a multitude of reasons.</div><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>The similarities between AIS and RADAR</b></p><p>The good thing is AIS has been designed and manufactured to work automatically and continuously, regardless of where a vessel is located. In the early advertisements AIS was touted as being RADAR like, however this is not the case at all. The only real similarities between AIS and RADAR is that the displays can be configured to look similar. Perhaps this is what the advertisements meant when they describe AIS RADAR. But the reality is RADAR transmits a pulse of extremely high frequency electrical energy that reflects off objects returning to the point of origin, after several pulses have been received, and after undergoing signal processing the blip or returned pulse is displayed on a RADAR screen. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQjaXkDeK_yNZyMX_eKnWjton4OIs-LBTpdlw3_-QIQ3zgp22Mmh0Q5Zl_iOUpLjLJfTioxBJ08TNSesDx_vYnfj_Xzj8uPVd2Xs6B5fLWf9psPNzdFzuy05riD-jbbPWGVWIy0OzAe4pzl45lJmpmgk3sUZ8CB9UV8gXUQmUp1gLTffbf1sN8sw8/s5472/Vessel%20shielding%20sand%20dredges%20from%20the%20RADAR.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQjaXkDeK_yNZyMX_eKnWjton4OIs-LBTpdlw3_-QIQ3zgp22Mmh0Q5Zl_iOUpLjLJfTioxBJ08TNSesDx_vYnfj_Xzj8uPVd2Xs6B5fLWf9psPNzdFzuy05riD-jbbPWGVWIy0OzAe4pzl45lJmpmgk3sUZ8CB9UV8gXUQmUp1gLTffbf1sN8sw8/w393-h261/Vessel%20shielding%20sand%20dredges%20from%20the%20RADAR.JPG" width="393" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vessel being shielded from RADAR by a larger vessel </td></tr></tbody></table><p>While RADAR is good the information that can be received form an AIS target can be better in some respects. In most cases we are able to, read data sent from the AIS target on the display device (chart plotter) by various means and get a host of information. The process to read the data transmitted from the target will be dependent on the chart plotter brand. On some display devices just moving the cursor over the target will display a list of data. Different brands of devices will require more or less button pressing and cursor movements but usually the important information is there at your fingertips. But don’t stop using the RADAR once you have AIS, just keep in mind it is very good at double checking the AIS target is transmitting its correct position. Or perhaps check for vessels out there that are not transmitting an AIS signal at all. For some of you headed to Asia, a word of warning; at night be on the lookout for tugs, the lights are usually correct for the type of tow, but mostly they don’t transmit AIS due to being domestic carriers. The good news is that the extremely large barges they tow can be good RADAR reflectors. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TpesvPqgtVoz6LcvPiVuJAmzVZj50dxcN8pLBBkDejX9YWjY5NTqHE2oH0PUvT1yQeUXqLaw4jBKg3kfS8vu5aXLdsk_IffjbDgznDVpVX5iamyltdSVsAWfCgYm5SYLGJeKDi3WmmZ9Xyrk8HByHERAnYROjP7yufTCxiD3W3tMN2gbM-Kefzh0/s2365/Malaka%20a%20closer%20look%20and%20see%20several%20vessels%20rafted%20up.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1241" data-original-width="2365" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TpesvPqgtVoz6LcvPiVuJAmzVZj50dxcN8pLBBkDejX9YWjY5NTqHE2oH0PUvT1yQeUXqLaw4jBKg3kfS8vu5aXLdsk_IffjbDgznDVpVX5iamyltdSVsAWfCgYm5SYLGJeKDi3WmmZ9Xyrk8HByHERAnYROjP7yufTCxiD3W3tMN2gbM-Kefzh0/w571-h300/Malaka%20a%20closer%20look%20and%20see%20several%20vessels%20rafted%20up.jpg" width="571" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A closer look and see several vessels rafted up, not easy to spot with RADAR</td></tr></tbody></table><p>With AIS information that can be called up and displayed is the target vessels, identity, position, current course, heading and speed. If your vessel is equipped with an AIS transceiver all this happens while also providing your information in real time to the other AIS system users. VHF frequencies have a longer wavelength than RADAR, AIS signals can be received from behind breakwaters, headlands, up river bends. It is also good for seeing vessels behind other ships in close quarters situations where a RADAR signal will not see or is blocked. So just this feature of the AIS signal alone can add to safer navigation by detecting the position(s) of a ship(s), even when tucked behind an island or hidden from view behind another larger ship.</p><p>If you are busy hanging on and find it’s getting difficult to check the vessels around you as the weather deteriorates. One of the features on most chart plotters or navigation software with integrated on-board AIS systems is the function to set alarms. These alarms can warn you if and when you will get too close to another vessel. These collision avoidance alarms are an advantage and can save you so a lot of time and anxiety when navigating across busy shipping lanes or in bad weather. Unfortunately this information is only as good as the data the AIS on your vessel is receiving and still requires a human for the interpretation / cross checking of the data. A vessel moving along at two knots may actually turn out to be towing another vessel on massively long cable. </p><p>The two alarms that can be set up; CPA (Closest Point of Approach) and TCPA (Time to Closest Point of Approach). It will depend on the brand and setup of the AIS system as to how these alarms are set, the best thing to do is to read the manual. Most systems will allow you to enter your own CPA and TCPA values for when the alarm will be triggered and so you need to decide how close you want to let other vessels get to you (CPA) before an alarm sounds and also how much time you need to take avoiding action (TCPA). Remember give yourself time for an out, especially when the vessels you may need to avoid are over three hundred metres long and traveling at twenty five knots. </p><p>You might decide that 1NM is plenty close enough for a large ship to pass and you want to have at least twenty minutes notice so that you have time to take avoiding action and/or call them on the radio.</p><p>Careful use of the CPA and TCPA alarm can certainly make your trips safer, however as I said before read the manual and familiarise yourself with how your particular system works. The down side to all this automated system process is that when entering a harbour or anchorage. You may want to know how to turn off the alarms temporally otherwise they are likely to drive you crazy when they keep going off reporting a moored or anchored vessel is a dangerous target. </p><p>While it’s all well and good to set CPA and TCPA alarms, in most cases you will still need to interpret the data and make the call on whether you will be crossing ahead or behind the vessel you have been tracking. It can make a big difference, crossing a quarter of a mile astern of a vessel moving at twenty five knots isn’t a problem but I wouldn’t think about trying to cross the bow at this range. One thing to keep in mind when coming up on large ships is their positioning antenna placement. You may find that a large ship has almost three hundred metres (0.16nM) of ship ahead of the position reported on the AIS. </p><p>Due to the great safety benefits offered by AIS, the network has continued to mature and expand to fulfil the design brief. Now combined with shore stations, this system offers port authorities and fully equipped maritime safety bodies the capability to manage maritime traffic and reduce the hazards of marine navigation.</p><p>A safety feature of the AIS is the AtoN (Aids to Navigation) can be transmitted over AIS. These can be physical aids like beacons, buoys, light houses fitted with an AIS transceiver or they can be computer-generated (virtual), like ones used to mark a new or temporary danger such as a shoaling bank or wreck. The computer generated AtoN can be set up and working quickly and is all done without the need for a marker/buoy to be physically placed on the dangerous point. </p><p>AIS can also be used to identify if navigational aids have moved from their charted position. As an example if a beacon or floating buoy fitted with an AIS transmitter is noticed as not being in the correct location corrective action can be put into motion quickly. Maritime safety bodies can send safety messages that might include developing storms, other weather events or search and rescue information. Additionally safety messages can be issued from either a ship or maritime safety stations. A ship that is underway but not able to manoeuvre properly due to some exceptional circumstance may issue a broadcast warning that they are now ‘not under command’. </p><p>The AIS system has many features that have the ability to bring immense benefits and collision avoidance to sailors. Important when on coastal passages and entering or traversing shipping lanes, these features are especially useful for shorthanded crews, e.g. cruising couples. AIS does not replace a proper look out, but it can add enhance situational awareness for the person on watch. Because the AIS can handle 2,250 reports per minute and may update information as often as every two seconds, real-time changes of another ship's movements can usually be immediately recognized.</p><p>The following shows what information each type of transponder will receive from the other.</p><p>Class A<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> To<span> </span>Class A & B<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Class B<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> To<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Class A & B</p><p>Position <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Position <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>Position <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Position</p><p>Speed <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Speed <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Speed <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Speed</p><p>Course <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Course <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Course <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Course</p><p>Heading <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Heading <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Heading* <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Heading</p><p>MMSI<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>MMSI <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>MMSI<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>MMSI</p><p>Name <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Name <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Name <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Name</p><p>Call Sign <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Call Sign <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Call Sign <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Call Sign</p><p>Vessel Type <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vessel Type <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vessel Type <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vessel Type</p><p>IMO number<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>IMO number</p><p>Voyage Data <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Voyage Data <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span></p><div style="text-align: left;">*Heading data rarely sent needs gyro input to AIS<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Data Transmitted</b><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">1. Static Information (Every 6 minutes and on request):<br />IMO number<br />Name and Call Sign<br />Length and Beam<br />Type of ship <br />Location of position fixing antenna<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">2. Position Report: This message is sent every 3 minutes where speed over ground is less than 2 knots, or every 30 seconds for greater speeds.<br />MMSI number<br />Ship’s position, longitude, latitude, true heading with accuracy indication<br />Position time stamp (in UTC)<br />Course Over Ground (COG)<br />Speed Over Ground (SOG)<br />Rate of turn – right or left, from 0 to 720 degrees per minute<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">3. Voyage Related Information (Every 6 minutes, when data is amended, or on request)<br />Ship’s draught<br />Type of cargo<br />Destination and ETA<br />Route plan (Waypoints)<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">4. Short safety related messages</div><p>Text messages free form and can be addressed to one or many destinations or to all stations in the area. This content could contain information such as a buoy missing, off station or flotsam sighted.</p><p>Here is the COL regulation rule 5: Every vessel shall at all times maintain a proper look‑out by sight and hearing as well as by all available means appropriate in the prevailing circumstances and conditions so as to make a full appraisal of the situation and of the risk of collision. </p><p>Like all things electronic there is a possibility for errors to creep into the system when things malfunction without totally failing. If you can spot the errors you may not fall into the trap like the cruiser mentioned earlier. Remember the accuracy of AIS information received is only as good as the accuracy of the AIS information transmitted in the first place. It’s not prudent for the crew on watch to assume that the positioning information received from other ships is as accurate and of the same precision as that available on their own vessel. </p><p><b>Operational problems seen</b></p><p><b>What type of vessel is it?</b></p><p>Don’t always take the ship type listed in the AIS information to be one hundred percent correct. We were heading out from Tioman Island Malaysia across the busy South China Sea shipping lane to the Anambas Island group. We had been tracking what we believed at the time a fishing vessel traveling along at two knots. Possibly trawling or so we thought at the time. They were several miles off at the time we started to pick them up on the AIS and track their course. Due to the current, weather and our sailing angle we were on a near collision course. Ok this won’t be a problem we will just point a little more on the wind and go astern. Then as time progressed we got a glimpse of a very dim light astern of the supposed fishing vessel. With the RADAR set at the highest gain range, we got a very intermittent and weak return from something tracking along at the same speed as the AIS target. This is where it got silly (very unusual), his lights were not right for a tug with tow, so we started using our spot light to try and get a glimpse of what was trailing behind our AIS target. This resulted in the tug/vessel blacking out all his lights and turning off his AIS. Well we now had a fair what we were dealing with and then it wasn’t long before the dim light on the tow also went off. So we started the motor, changed tack and was able to pass ahead of the tug. It appears that perhaps the tug/vessel skipper was paranoid about being boarded by pirates. So we think he had set the vessel type to fishing vessel, then went into hiding when a small boat (us) was trying to shine a light his way. If only he knew even with no lights on his vessel was still very visible through the binoculars.</p><p><b>Why don’t I always see the vessels name dimensions or other data?</b></p><p>This problem is due to the operation of the system, shipboard AIS units separately broadcast different AIS messages:</p><p>A 'Position Report' which includes latitude, longitude, position accuracy, time, course, speed, navigation status. Position reports are broadcasted frequently between two to ten seconds depending on the vessel’s speed or manoeuvres, or every 3 minutes if at anchor.</p><p>A 'Static and Voyage Related Report' which includes name, dimensions, type, information regarding its voyage (e.g. static draft, destination, and ETA), static and voyage related reports are sent every six minutes.</p><p>So it’s normal for an AIS to receive numerous position reports from a vessel before the vessel name, type and data associated with a static or voyage report. A fault with the AIS can also result in the missing data, one vessel we sailed with for some time had an ongoing problem and it was rare we would see any of the static vessel data blanks filled in. It turned out the wire used for the cable run from the navigation panel to the AIS was inadequate and the AIS unit would be in continuous start up loop. It would transmit a position report and when doing so the unit would shut down due to lack of voltage then restart after transmitting. So it never ran long enough to transmit the static information. </p><p><br /></p><p><b>Why do we see vessels reporting they are at anchor traveling along at speed?</b></p><p>This would most likely be a Class A unit. Class A units allow the input of voyage related information, in this case the person in charge of inputting the information hasn’t done the job or forgot to hit the return key. The other voyage information transmitted from this vessel may or may not be correct. Usually a call to the vessel in question will result in a hasty update. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98folsr0PiRbeGIZ0ivVe9_VQrvr65M0fWpiI5doZPvkBPU9SfpM7J2WGbn4Z4ZSH0vEWvI5Sx0QpVIEoxlaSSNAQIWWxGr5YkyzFmRVdz2A6CGP_NzDnFyNm5zkO7Tk6gdLq-DB5lEGFNKH7QtWkNccTgD0YdNYwmKQlBO6YOrnSGmzzXBrVBNZo/s1697/13%20knots%20at%20anchor%20depicted%20by%20black%20dot,%20the%20ship%20behind%20vessel%20is%20turning%20to%20Port.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1445" data-original-width="1697" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98folsr0PiRbeGIZ0ivVe9_VQrvr65M0fWpiI5doZPvkBPU9SfpM7J2WGbn4Z4ZSH0vEWvI5Sx0QpVIEoxlaSSNAQIWWxGr5YkyzFmRVdz2A6CGP_NzDnFyNm5zkO7Tk6gdLq-DB5lEGFNKH7QtWkNccTgD0YdNYwmKQlBO6YOrnSGmzzXBrVBNZo/w464-h394/13%20knots%20at%20anchor%20depicted%20by%20black%20dot,%20the%20ship%20behind%20vessel%20is%20turning%20to%20Port.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doing 13 Knots and displaying the anchor symbol. More likely it wasn't updated before setting off. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p>From time to time we see the “Inland Blue Flag” set, it's a part of the European, Inland AIS standard. The “Blue Flag” signal, commonly seen on inland waters, indicates that the vessel requests a “stbd-stbd” passage or crossing. This Blue Signal is manually switched on/off, by the target. We can only assume these are not turned off when leaving Europe, or have been set on by untrained operators. </p><div style="text-align: left;"><b>The RADAR target and the AIS don’t always correspond.</b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This error can be caused by a multitude of reasons. The speed of the vessel you are tracking may be the cause of what you are seeing. The slower the vessel is traveling the more time between the position reports. I have seen a few vessels that did have a fault and even at speed the position reports were several minutes apart. The best thing to do is call the ship and let them know they may have a problem with their AIS and explain the fault. We have seen vessels in the data list notated as being in the northern hemisphere, and were in front of us coming up the NSW coast. So obviously their AIS had a hang up or the connection to GPS or ships navigation system had a fault. </div><p>What else could cause an error? AIS position data received from another ship might not be referenced to the WGS 84 datum so if the data on your vessel is, then there will be a discrepancy in the displayed position and their real position. The discrepancy will be distance. How much distance? This will all depend on the datum they have selected their system to run on. </p><p><b>Why don’t the CPA and TCPA look right for a ship pointed straight at us?</b></p><p>Check the vessels course and heading match up to within a couple of degrees, the closer the better. More than likely this is a set up error or the gyro connection to AIS unit wasn’t wired in correctly when the system was installed. Ships GYROs use different systems (formats) to output course data, a crossed over wire at the interface or an open circuit on one pair can cause an incorrect output without causing a total failure or error condition at the AIS unit. Be aware of this condition, a lot will depend on the brand of chart plotter or display device on your vessel. Some chart plotters don’t show targets as anything other than a triangle. If this is the case then scan your targets data when they first come into range. We have seen several ships with this error, unfortunately once we contact them and let them know of the failure they brush it aside or don’t understand. A very well spoken watch officer on a cruise ship brushed it aside treating us as if we were being a nuisance. The screen shot of the MV Menang Jaya gives a good example of this fault, the vessels COG is 299 degrees and his heading is listed as 186 degrees. His COG more than likely is being calculated by the GPS device in the AIS or the vessels navigation system, from what we saw this was correct, the heading information will most likely be coming from the on board GYRO and was wrong. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQChPAhcdTUzEzLmnmtKsAp_xsnQWdEMr1Ddb1eAYasXvBsDsruPc7ArkZqhWIgepRPSPdUJ80hsJ0tBGMrw7U57Gctw0h-3z08Fa48qYZe43C3a7hD99WKYfyExREssl-vGCT2QBg9M-J1omzeFk5vxFfjmuWbpAqx0JB4GfkR5mLAIwnbkOluBt/s1341/MV%20Menang%20Jaya%20COG%20and%20Heading%20%20dont%20match%20up%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Be%20very%20wary%20of%20this%20vessel%20and%20direction%20of%20travel.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1341" data-original-width="1233" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQChPAhcdTUzEzLmnmtKsAp_xsnQWdEMr1Ddb1eAYasXvBsDsruPc7ArkZqhWIgepRPSPdUJ80hsJ0tBGMrw7U57Gctw0h-3z08Fa48qYZe43C3a7hD99WKYfyExREssl-vGCT2QBg9M-J1omzeFk5vxFfjmuWbpAqx0JB4GfkR5mLAIwnbkOluBt/w410-h446/MV%20Menang%20Jaya%20COG%20and%20Heading%20%20dont%20match%20up%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Be%20very%20wary%20of%20this%20vessel%20and%20direction%20of%20travel.jpg" width="410" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The course over ground and heading don't match up, we saw this vessel several times, unfortunately English as a second language didn't help them when I tried to explain that they had a possible Gyro connection problem, </td></tr></tbody></table><p>We recently sailed in Indonesia with a couple whose AIS reported the vessel was heading 000 degrees. However their COG would change to report the vessels direction of travel at the time. This turned out to be a fault with a GYRO card fitted in the all in one unit (Chartplotter, AIS, GYRO). This fault did give several ships watch keepers a fright when they thought they were going to run them down. </p><div style="text-align: left;">Simular error symptoms but the COG and heading match up. Check the report age, this is very important, some AIS units will hold a target static for some time when data has not been received. I have seen ghosts where the data is several minutes old. Large ships traveling at 25 knots can travel a lot of distance in this several minutes. AIS doesn’t relieve you of watch keeping duties of using every means possible, use your eyes to first scan the horizon then the AIS data on the chart plotter information page. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> <br />As I have said earlier the accuracy of AIS information received is only as good as the accuracy of the AIS information transmitted<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>When I am looking at a web site for AIS sometimes I don’t see all the vessels?</b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b>Under SOLAS and the relevant IMO guidelines, the Master of any vessel has the discretion to turn off the AIS unit if its continual operation might compromise the vessel's safety or security.</div><p style="text-align: left;">The publicly available AIS websites (such as Marinetraffic.com) use a crowd-based approach to gather AIS information. The International Maritime Organization (IMO) has condemned the display of AIS data on public websites. The AIS receivers used for this purpose are not certified AIS base stations and may not provide accurate or valid data. We have also found that the opposite can also be true when vessels are still shown as being live on the web site even when they haven’t had a received transmission for a day or more. However an even scarier feature is the ability for people to call their vessel position in on a mobile phone, without even having an AIS transceiver. Be very careful if you want to go down the AIS over the internet approach, good luck with that, it’s a recipe for disaster. </p><p><b>I have been told the range of my AIS is very limited </b></p><p>The AIS unit can have its own antenna or by using a splitter, can use the same antenna as the VHF radio. The loss in sensitivity to the VHF radio by adding a splitter is marginal and should not be a problem. However some older VHF antenna may not be suitable for AIS as the frequencies used are on the edge of the marine band and some aerials do not work well at the band edges. If you’re VHF voice transmissions are getting out and you have good range then perhaps it is time to look at the antenna you are using. Another thing to check is your cable runs. In most cases the VHF antenna is at the top of the mast, this can help with extending the range. The down side is the cable run is long and if the cable run up the mast is not low loss coax cable then this could be the source of some signal loss. All said and done a check by a radio tech / electronics tech should be able to give an answer on whether it’s the radio, splitter, cable or antenna. </p><p>If you are using a splitter check to see if it has any status lights on the front, I have seen active splitters malfunction from time to time. Splitters appear to be especially sensitive to lightning storms and the storm doesn’t need to be close. A power reset will sometimes do the trick and it will function as it should after turning it off for a little while and then powering it back on. </p><p> If you are using an AIS transceiver, the splitter must be suitable for transmit use; this is certainly worth checking if you are upgrading from a receive only unit. </p><p>Keep in mind that if the VHF radio is using the same antenna as the AIS sometimes the AIS targets will disappear from your chart plotter when using the VHF radio. This usually depends on the length of time you have been or are on the VHF. When I was using a passive antenna splitter I had problems when in a heavy shipping areas. Voice communications were interrupted by the AIS as it was still sending during a voice transmission. To get around this I installed an active splitter, this always gives priority to the VHF radio transmissions and also has a fail-safe feature where it is designed to protect/maintain the VHF connection in the event of the splitter circuit failing.</p><p><b>Disasters Averted</b></p><p>I know from experience the AIS system has aided rescue or has helped keep people out of trouble. </p><p>The first was when a catamaran was moving through the Barrier Reef area and a ship contacted them by name and let them know they must take evasive action now or they would be run down. They took evasive action and was able to power out of the ships way quickly. </p><p>Another time when moving through the Barrier Reef area up near Flinders Island, an EPIRB had been activated and through the aid of AIS the Reef VTS was able to contact the two closest boats to the activated beacon. As it turned out that was ourselves and a vessel we were traveling with at the time. The others were slightly closer and were able to find the distressed boat (broken down tinnie) and tow them to safety. </p><p>Before heading into the channel between the two main islands of the Kai group in Indonesia I was tracking the progress of a vessel already in the passage. As I was watching their progress thanks to the AIS, I noticed they were headed for a shoal area at seven knots. I called them on the VHF to let them know my charts showed they were possibly sailing into trouble. As it turned out the older chart plotter chip they were using in the cockpit did not have the shoals marked, but the newer chip used below showed the rocks and shoals clearly. If it wasn’t for the fact I was able to track their progress thanks to the AIS a disaster was averted. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibMnBwBduuA9G_OErLk7_c6hoEXc7MVZhahl-ykKd-RMy8rTZkDTEMZ2zbkKFwndjXBoYjv9IQqGPRE9q8qC3G-_NQR7_sE7-04IAb9tz5L6qN6eWv1uTbpzSxA8o2v9w7kq9j8CNQDsESps4m9DJTllY8kbn6WvShhqauiXRnmFyM1rVb1oNVmNGG/s5472/Sand%20Dredge%20in%20a%20hurry%20Straits%20of%20Johore%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibMnBwBduuA9G_OErLk7_c6hoEXc7MVZhahl-ykKd-RMy8rTZkDTEMZ2zbkKFwndjXBoYjv9IQqGPRE9q8qC3G-_NQR7_sE7-04IAb9tz5L6qN6eWv1uTbpzSxA8o2v9w7kq9j8CNQDsESps4m9DJTllY8kbn6WvShhqauiXRnmFyM1rVb1oNVmNGG/w561-h373/Sand%20Dredge%20in%20a%20hurry%20Straits%20of%20Johore%20.JPG" width="561" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A large sand dredge, it was normal for them to raft up as they worked or refueled </td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMaKbw5pTw1yxpZpHjtxaiGnpGExcW7JAw1NmGPlXIwK_CtxwxWZ-Wsy9m-gY9WvWKpNXbL27ML5UZ_zAGhUo9rQzasmGOrVVXTGkp1lfJdbRcx5cFnWO-T3cGnf1BFM1q5a8-8MsfC-ROxJIB3GmmO33TZMtk-S63IAtTGwDj8q4WqlUAK5EOxxe_/s2365/Malaka%20a%20closer%20look%20and%20see%20several%20vessels%20rafted%20up.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1241" data-original-width="2365" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMaKbw5pTw1yxpZpHjtxaiGnpGExcW7JAw1NmGPlXIwK_CtxwxWZ-Wsy9m-gY9WvWKpNXbL27ML5UZ_zAGhUo9rQzasmGOrVVXTGkp1lfJdbRcx5cFnWO-T3cGnf1BFM1q5a8-8MsfC-ROxJIB3GmmO33TZMtk-S63IAtTGwDj8q4WqlUAK5EOxxe_/w727-h382/Malaka%20a%20closer%20look%20and%20see%20several%20vessels%20rafted%20up.jpg" width="727" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While not easy to see at first there are a lot of vessels rafted up together in pairs. Zoom in the chart plotter is the best way to keep on top of the problem. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>While moving through a crowded ship anchorage we were coming up to a large tanker, thanks to the AIS we were able to see a dredge was about to come out from behind the tanker at speed. Because of the proximity of the moored tanker and the lack of manoeuvrability in the anchorage the dredge was shielded from both our vision and the RADAR beam. The good thing was that we were able to take evasive action well before a close quarters situation arose. </p><p><b>To sum it up</b></p><p>The AIS only improves the safety of navigation by assisting the person on watch. As with all navigational and/or electronic equipment, the AIS has limitations. Always keep in mind that the accuracy of AIS information received is only as good as the accuracy of the AIS information transmitted in the first instance. Users must be aware that erroneous information might be transmitted by the AIS from another ship. Try not to become over dependant on the AIS as this can cause complacency on the part of the watch keeper. If the person on watch isn’t keeping a vigilant watch out on the real world, there could be developing close quarters situations when ships where the AIS, if fitted, is switched off. While there is talk of errors with the system, analyse the data available from several sources and by using the AIS as another tool (not the only tool) good decisions can be made to keep your vessel safe.</p><p>For as little as sixty australian dollars you can have a <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2022/12/ais-receiver-on-cruisers-budget.html" target="_blank">stand alone AIS receiver using a USB, RTL software defined radio</a> and some free software loaded up on your laptop. An internal connection to OpenCPN and you have a setup that will display class A and B AIS targets on your charts in real time. </p><p><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/02/global-navigation-satellite-system-and.html" target="_blank">Satellite Navigation and Satellite based Augmentation </a></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-5513857206188389492023-01-23T10:38:00.015+10:002023-12-19T15:18:52.950+10:00Programs to manipulate GPS Navigation files <p> We have found a wonderful benefit of having our vessel navigation move into the digital age. Most electronic navigation systems produce collectable data in a variety of formats. While there can be an assortment of statistical and performance information collected from the different components of the on-board navigation system. I will focus on the data sets dealing with waypoints, tracks, routes and sonar logs. Most of the newer systems save the recorded data in a format called GPX. Sonar logs are the exception to this rule and does vary with model and brand of unit collecting the data.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRM_VGGmdcZSGLQStdP5hoIo19HWNGPVkM0hu7jq8nRi458HeDISugFY_9rVAmm74zzGk7m7SgnBkbV7UFpwMEZAdjKhFHEb9umfYIZ5ykVcaehAnSJ4DIN8xyC9LKfzVFOAjUlxnswGUF0uefsRJPj-e3Bgh4dQZhZmtNDKsKH_iFntz2qKHCBB5_/s2728/A%20GPX%20file%20is%20capable%20of%20holding%20hundreds%20of%20waypoints%20and%20%20tracks.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2728" height="383" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRM_VGGmdcZSGLQStdP5hoIo19HWNGPVkM0hu7jq8nRi458HeDISugFY_9rVAmm74zzGk7m7SgnBkbV7UFpwMEZAdjKhFHEb9umfYIZ5ykVcaehAnSJ4DIN8xyC9LKfzVFOAjUlxnswGUF0uefsRJPj-e3Bgh4dQZhZmtNDKsKH_iFntz2qKHCBB5_/w681-h383/A%20GPX%20file%20is%20capable%20of%20holding%20hundreds%20of%20waypoints%20and%20%20tracks.bmp" width="681" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GPX files have the ability to contain 1000's of waypoints and an enormous number of tracks and routes.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Data loggers are becoming popular</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">Keep in mind data loggers are becoming popular and cheaper by the day, most loggers store raw information in NMEA0183 format. Rather than scroll through the data looking for anomalies, the use of the listed programs that handle NMEA data will certainly make life easier. Whether you want to do conversions or analyse the information to see how your systems are performing. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Saving Time</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">Most navigation systems, even the early models have been producing and storing data. Why bother doing anything with this data some may ask? Saving time would be our first response. We personally have found it is very time consuming creating the routes and waypoints while passage planning for an upcoming trip. Creating the electronic copy of waypoints from a cruising guide or notes can take up a significant amount of time before an outing. If we were to start from scratch it would take many hours to recreate and enter the coordinates and information for all the routes and waypoints we have created or collected over the years. So having a backup is important should we need to change navigation systems or even do a software upgrade or factory reset, restoring the waypoints and tracks is then very easy. The other advantage of being able to store waypoints and track information is the ability to upload to a new, secondary, or clone several navigation systems or to share information with friends. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Things can and do go wrong</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">Like any record, things can go wrong, there may be a spike or break in the track data that needs to be fixed. With the right software, editing routes, tracks and waypoints is straight forward. It could be things like removing spikes or perhaps totally removing the detour to your secret fishing spot before sharing the track to guests at next weekend’s BBQ at the club. There is also the ability to sort your waypoints or tracks and then group them into several areas so the file does not become too large. In a lot of cases it isn’t good having the chartplotter overflowing with waypoints routes and tracks in areas you’re not likely to either, visit again or you won’t be revisiting until next years vacation. Also the amount of on-board storage capacity for collecting new waypoints and tracks is greatly reduced. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Backup of the created data</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">Keep in mind most standalone navigation systems and chartplotters only have a set amount of data storage on board. Once this set limit is reached, information is overwritten and lost forever. So being able to store the data off the system, clearing up storage space can have benefits. Firstly, restoring performance when the system is no longer bogged down while keeping track of a large selection of storage files. Secondly, you now have a backup of the created data. </div><p>Waypoints can have text information added to act as a memory jogger. For example, a reminder of the bottom type and the depth of an anchorage, or data about transiting through the area. Additional waypoint data can also include the local tidal station or function we have started to make good use of is an <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2019/07/opencpn-interactive-cruising-guide.html" target="_blank">active link function</a>. This works well when the OpenCPN chartplotter is running on a PC\laptop. This link can be used to open a .PDF file on your computer hard drive, a great way to store additional information about what’s happening at the waypoints surrounding area. The link can also open a web address if formatted correctly. As an example, a file stored in the C:\ directory can be opened at the selected page number of a cruising guide. This link file:/C:\Matilda Cruising Guide.pdf#page=1 will open the file ‘Matilda Cruising Guide.pdf ‘at the selected page and in this example will be page 1. </p><p>Programs to manipulate GPS files including .GPX (GPS Exchange Format). GPX the file extension of one of the most commonly used GPS file format. GPX, or GPS Exchange Format, is designed as a common GPS data format for software applications. It can be used to describe waypoints, tracks, and routes. The format is open and can be used without the need to pay a license fee. I will also mention some of the programs have the ability to look at and allow you to edit NMEA format files as well. Possibly not as popular as the other file types as this is usually the raw data from instruments and GPS/GNSS units. </p><p>When passage planning another good reason for using some of these software tools is the ability to cross check your planned route on differing base maps or Google Earth. </p><p>The waypoint tracks and routes can also be checked on Memory Map charts, these are a copy of the official Australian charts. We find it saves drawing lines on the paper equivalent. Unfortunately unless you already have Memory Map charts then this tid bit if information won't be much help as they are no longer available.</p><p>However we use SASplanet to look over our planned routes now, and the main reason is due to being able to select a variety of different sources of satellite charts.</p><p>If you need to edit or manipulate GPX data files, older file types, or even NMEA data files there are several programs that should cover most formats. In no particular order, all but one of the programs were free downloads at the time of writing. As is usually the case when we first start to use this data, to create files or correct errors it can be confusing and time consuming. Although, with a little persistence once you start it doesn’t take long to become proficient.</p><p>Another post we have done is the way we navigate in the digital age.<a href=" https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/the-way-we-navigate-in-digital-age.html" target="_blank"> Read it here </a> also check out the tab on the home page "Technical & Help Articles, OpenCPN, OpenPlotter, Navigation, Raspberry Pi " for other hints and tricks we have picked up along the way. </p><p><b>GPSbabel</b></p><p>I use this program to convert my Lowrance chartplotter tracks to GPX format, but this program has an enormous collection of formats from a wide variety of chart plotter brands to choose from. </p><p><a href="https://www.gpsbabel.org/download.html" target="_blank">https://www.gpsbabel.org/download.html</a></p><p><b>EasyGPS </b></p><p>EasyGPS is the fast and easy way to upload and download waypoints, routes, and tracks between your Windows computer and your Garmin, Magellan, or Lowrance GPS. Good for those into geo caches. The program is continually evolving and adding functions making it great for different users. </p><p><a href="https://www.easygps.com/download.asp" target="_blank">https://www.easygps.com/download.asp</a></p><p><b>GPX Editor </b></p><p>I have used and really like this program and know a couple of other cruisers who swear by it, one in particular has a hobby collecting others information and creating cruising/anchoring guides to share. This program is great for changing the data in tracks to remove spikes, or even removing excess data. I like this program to view my GPS performance, it’s easy to keep an eye on a track to see how jittery or smooth the GPS positioning is. The routes tracks and waypoints can also be displayed on a world base map to give you an idea of their position. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYNPM7JAEEs5qAEAcQ8BvvFCZwqcJVpnB9NzC0lcxhPwrx44UFqzSu5YNXXX5sp1qIUlqjFKAiRB0rKzk0wDIOVuY7E-ekEFvXP4gPzUnAHNiuMkyQgRwPtbqZYTWKWYUGr2ARB-rr8mree8myTXlNk5PGmqbvEA24whHx6MjMPr4w5ap_DW0IYrL/s2732/Correcting%20a%20data%20spike%20with%20a%20GPX%20editor.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1508" data-original-width="2732" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYNPM7JAEEs5qAEAcQ8BvvFCZwqcJVpnB9NzC0lcxhPwrx44UFqzSu5YNXXX5sp1qIUlqjFKAiRB0rKzk0wDIOVuY7E-ekEFvXP4gPzUnAHNiuMkyQgRwPtbqZYTWKWYUGr2ARB-rr8mree8myTXlNk5PGmqbvEA24whHx6MjMPr4w5ap_DW0IYrL/w639-h354/Correcting%20a%20data%20spike%20with%20a%20GPX%20editor.bmp" width="639" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Editing a spike from a track record using the function in GPXeditor, the graph on the bottom has the scale overload due to the spike speed of traveling 30000Nm in the matter of a few seconds, once the waypoint is corrected and the file reloaded the scaling should then make sense and be informative data. </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSwLBDD0MIhiPPBeAdre38uko4YRrtyUO5phDTSN3yasYEqyCaphjJEtjdu9Rv7_lEYe4J-YiW5mJ32wawRE3OW6g0xCjfshzkoG5PaLXz3SqIpyzw2zP-kY2K6m16meIuK9bBaLfCdM-5ATjb9NDebsCVab1u5rseVBSWKYanDr7wnpO-Z7oxREq/s2732/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20GpxEditor.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="2732" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSwLBDD0MIhiPPBeAdre38uko4YRrtyUO5phDTSN3yasYEqyCaphjJEtjdu9Rv7_lEYe4J-YiW5mJ32wawRE3OW6g0xCjfshzkoG5PaLXz3SqIpyzw2zP-kY2K6m16meIuK9bBaLfCdM-5ATjb9NDebsCVab1u5rseVBSWKYanDr7wnpO-Z7oxREq/w611-h326/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20GpxEditor.bmp" width="611" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GPXeditor used to check a track overlaid on an open source map</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHroB3nrNMr5JmNQhV7fkyNX1y2zyOSj5Sm8oC9ol0W_t1v0ffc1yhRYkY3Q8jDVTGWmFno9mwuFF9ri40HO5LQwRgTWyIQn1XjnJ0XA9U9PUOznWFnsN-jfKrGf_XiZA3BemlpxQooRdRSrTVBQk-eQuBsypo22exreFBNWzeSTnX6XEDLifFsXsy/s2732/Tracks%20into%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20displayed%20with%20GpxEditor.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1460" data-original-width="2732" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHroB3nrNMr5JmNQhV7fkyNX1y2zyOSj5Sm8oC9ol0W_t1v0ffc1yhRYkY3Q8jDVTGWmFno9mwuFF9ri40HO5LQwRgTWyIQn1XjnJ0XA9U9PUOznWFnsN-jfKrGf_XiZA3BemlpxQooRdRSrTVBQk-eQuBsypo22exreFBNWzeSTnX6XEDLifFsXsy/w596-h318/Tracks%20into%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20displayed%20with%20GpxEditor.bmp" width="596" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspection of a track into a Lagoon, using the open source map, your probably not going to use this for navigation but at least you know it is in the right place even though it lacks detail</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4JjrOOF2CdsQphd0vvvMAMjE76qd_Xj9h6dgDiHNn-F7nvBdzc2GmPezp3aeXvLdepvn1xbI_WKDQubU7tU-wG1_NsM7oIsi4Ubjt17I23nZ9eLdRk2w4IVHLo01u9doxYJgrxq94wC84Xrxbh1L80jm7Wdk8CZX1o_e0gT0BXnq1tWYtffkwOPo/s2730/GPX%20editor%20the%20green%20box%20on%20the%20bottom%20of%20the%20screen%20showing%20smooth%20GPS%20fixes.%20The%20speed%20is%20not%20jumping%20around%20as%20it%20would%20with%20poor%20fixs.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2730" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4JjrOOF2CdsQphd0vvvMAMjE76qd_Xj9h6dgDiHNn-F7nvBdzc2GmPezp3aeXvLdepvn1xbI_WKDQubU7tU-wG1_NsM7oIsi4Ubjt17I23nZ9eLdRk2w4IVHLo01u9doxYJgrxq94wC84Xrxbh1L80jm7Wdk8CZX1o_e0gT0BXnq1tWYtffkwOPo/w640-h360/GPX%20editor%20the%20green%20box%20on%20the%20bottom%20of%20the%20screen%20showing%20smooth%20GPS%20fixes.%20The%20speed%20is%20not%20jumping%20around%20as%20it%20would%20with%20poor%20fixs.bmp" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GPX editor the green box on the bottom of the screen showing smooth speed GPS fixes. The speed is not jumping around as it would be with poor fixs. This is a good way to inspect the performance and quality of your navigation positioning. Erratic speed can be an indicator of poor positioning, if on going it may be time to troubleshoot, how you ask?, for example is the GPS/GNSS antenna being blocked from time to time, or as another example, is it possible to have multi path (metal pole next to the antenna) or reflections from the sea surface or objects on board. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span face="Lato, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"><b>GPXeditor blurb form the host site:</b> <i>Load, modify and save your GPX 1.1 files. Add and remove waypoints, edit track and routes, simplify tracks (reducing file's size), clean recorded data, add and edit GPX metadata, edit waypoint, route and track properties, all with real-time preview.</i></span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://sourceforge.net/projects/gpxeditor/">https://sourceforge.net/projects/gpxeditor/</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://download.cnet.com/GPX-Editor/3000-2383_4-10913774.html">https://download.cnet.com/GPX-Editor/3000-2383_4-10913774.html</a></div><p><b>GPX See </b></p><p><a href="https://www.gpxsee.org/">https://www.gpxsee.org/</a></p><p>A handy program to view GPX files. It also supports file formats like FIT, GPX, NMEA, LOC and JPEG that are geotagged. This program will also open for view, the popular .mbtiles and .kap files. These two file formats are the most popular used for making satellite photo charts for use with OpenCPN. I find its a good way to check the created chart is clear and readable with out firing up OpenCPN and adding the files into the chart directory. </p><p> You are also able to check elevation temperature, heart rate and power if recorded. Great for those with FIT watches. This program will display your waypoints, tracks and routes on selectable base maps. Very handy as a crosscheck, as there is the possibility to graph different information contained in the file.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpI777i5pHXzLbgFPSBMuIvjYf3nGxm7jwftEtai-whK95FcqSX17HaINA3EooMnr1GQ9uhwXWU1g2Z_0W_lEauDclYoTmZtc_Wuu2t5wW4N8CIHX2PG60vf3Ht8X4fA6fjdb4opkwALNuOnd9I7Kjfry8YW5KrQxNOQqt0PEuDe5M2d7535iCNww/s1358/GPXSee%20displaying%20a%20satellite%20chart.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="1358" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpI777i5pHXzLbgFPSBMuIvjYf3nGxm7jwftEtai-whK95FcqSX17HaINA3EooMnr1GQ9uhwXWU1g2Z_0W_lEauDclYoTmZtc_Wuu2t5wW4N8CIHX2PG60vf3Ht8X4fA6fjdb4opkwALNuOnd9I7Kjfry8YW5KrQxNOQqt0PEuDe5M2d7535iCNww/w679-h366/GPXSee%20displaying%20a%20satellite%20chart.png" width="679" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A satellite photo chart displayed in GPXSee, great way to view the chart rather than upload it to the navigation system</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3BMpEOWvY-wNM9YzYwvWcF_n4WY4-e4Jo5aB9pWsxohLayO2RKjZxoEomxbETcmfyTyLeTuvCHUfsalkddbPerKKnCEHVFzUS6y5TMwbfgkvDwfwv81v6PoXK-1bmvefkFN2tJmMBA99CRw5VBGqEMDJt_LdqgNyjoYxcvRB_SpWDhnbQKTva0pQk/s2732/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20GpxSee.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1428" data-original-width="2732" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3BMpEOWvY-wNM9YzYwvWcF_n4WY4-e4Jo5aB9pWsxohLayO2RKjZxoEomxbETcmfyTyLeTuvCHUfsalkddbPerKKnCEHVFzUS6y5TMwbfgkvDwfwv81v6PoXK-1bmvefkFN2tJmMBA99CRw5VBGqEMDJt_LdqgNyjoYxcvRB_SpWDhnbQKTva0pQk/w636-h332/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20GpxSee.bmp" width="636" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GPXSee used to check a track overlaid on an open source map</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMiDpeR7w73V1HLTKGKows2g9koHBOiEMUJwMN4adrMQD9CoDU8RHEojz8gPy_4tpYSzhxjuf2sXbsnoLiWmMh-3ZnEo78Lhqiitld_tmVIuC5lejkyDy37QrqfNpGBHxeubysa6PeTW7TTmgawDJDDzryCJqMFGcXq2-h0lBsxYdx3AqbSaJjuk-i/s2732/Tracks%20into%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20displayed%20with%20GpxSee.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1412" data-original-width="2732" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMiDpeR7w73V1HLTKGKows2g9koHBOiEMUJwMN4adrMQD9CoDU8RHEojz8gPy_4tpYSzhxjuf2sXbsnoLiWmMh-3ZnEo78Lhqiitld_tmVIuC5lejkyDy37QrqfNpGBHxeubysa6PeTW7TTmgawDJDDzryCJqMFGcXq2-h0lBsxYdx3AqbSaJjuk-i/w637-h328/Tracks%20into%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20displayed%20with%20GpxSee.bmp" width="637" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspection of a track into a Lagoon, using the open source map not a lot of detail this time.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><b>Garmin Mapsource </b> </p><p>The Garmin Mapsource is used to up and download files from Garmin products, in our case we have Garmin GPS H72 and the later GPS 73 handheld units. I believe Mapsource will do the whole range of Garmin units, especially useful for the ones with a USB connection, I have been told it will also work seamlessly with the older serial units with Garmin format turned on. I don't have any problems manipulating and editing GPX files with this software. Map Source will also open and save in several formats: gdb, mps, gpx and loc.</p><p>I have used Mapsource and GPX Editor to edit waypoints. There is also a function to display the routes, tracks and waypoints on Google Earth which makes it extremely functional when passage planning. To do this you need to have Google Earth Pro Ver 7.3.1.45 , this may take a bit of searching but is available from the Google Earthsite. https://support.google.com/earth/answer/168344#zippy=%2Cdownload-a-google-earth-pro-direct-installer Select the correct one for your system from the list of direct installers.</p><p>The creation of waypoints and Routes is simple and the waypoints can also have web links embedded into the properties. While it is possible to add a variety of icons to the waypoints they do not travel to other navigation programs and in most cases when opened will have the default icon of the system assigned.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT6UQavwK7ilKk4kckoCwWneewCE-64nxgUZInPYS8yJGILCfa156XHFHvYRMw8FkiasdgSJdJyc3Je0Ex4Dy7ykemHOHQphE2NFgr8vQUPL0yIAZCLbcB9-aD89D1lZVbX3jeNDw4xgtWoXRf-J8INg_hb530mqLEOKmYlT2LyAlIToh4cTwT3gB/s2049/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20Garmin%20Mapsource%20view%20in%20Google%20Earth%20function.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="2049" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT6UQavwK7ilKk4kckoCwWneewCE-64nxgUZInPYS8yJGILCfa156XHFHvYRMw8FkiasdgSJdJyc3Je0Ex4Dy7ykemHOHQphE2NFgr8vQUPL0yIAZCLbcB9-aD89D1lZVbX3jeNDw4xgtWoXRf-J8INg_hb530mqLEOKmYlT2LyAlIToh4cTwT3gB/w612-h329/Tracks%20into%20Pancake%20Creek%20Garmin%20Mapsource%20view%20in%20Google%20Earth%20function.bmp" width="612" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tracks into Pancake Creek shown overlaid on Google Earth by the Mapsource Program.</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Q5KYW1SveC_rSLCGvn1tCQ2Kjeb6GZukWai2CMzYdGWoW-k-b5SViUsSiMTzaWtgbvDnDyx8lwbEO2-wrhNsnSWo8caXPF2EQ5UfrruXLZQaesYP_l6S6yz3IWRslvWWz-IUCJVG6gcIoReskrM0zoy5AY8k_KAhnqSkbYeb_TnQAAOxLIAcIZa4/s2732/Creating%20a%20route%20shown%20in%20pink%20from%20a%20track%20is%20easy%20work.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="2732" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Q5KYW1SveC_rSLCGvn1tCQ2Kjeb6GZukWai2CMzYdGWoW-k-b5SViUsSiMTzaWtgbvDnDyx8lwbEO2-wrhNsnSWo8caXPF2EQ5UfrruXLZQaesYP_l6S6yz3IWRslvWWz-IUCJVG6gcIoReskrM0zoy5AY8k_KAhnqSkbYeb_TnQAAOxLIAcIZa4/w641-h342/Creating%20a%20route%20shown%20in%20pink%20from%20a%20track%20is%20easy%20work.bmp" width="641" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creating a route from a track is easy, then we check it out on a satellite chart to make sure we are in the clear. Some auto create route from track functions with other programs, while easy, can put you in trouble shortcutting through shallow bends or smoothing out course changes that were used to dodge an obstruction</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84XsPxdVFIEpcWIivoumuqVpyK1aWcSMrxf88pSNEiuNpyQk4htNbeUkHrwZWeBEk8QJ1rDZABd1Pk5MOhOQM_XhRsfBDxUMvf2somMZDXMTzdkML4SgR3r8gIoeV_wyQz6Rxojwg5o_vltV7UARcSd4AbdxVZotn1kasKCpnCEIQ0Tua_FepWLQp/s2728/Creating%20a%20route%20shown%20in%20pink%20from%20a%20track%20Then%20Checking%20the%20created%20route%20isnt%20going%20over%20land.%20Mapsource%20display%20in%20Google%20Earth%20option%20.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1456" data-original-width="2728" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84XsPxdVFIEpcWIivoumuqVpyK1aWcSMrxf88pSNEiuNpyQk4htNbeUkHrwZWeBEk8QJ1rDZABd1Pk5MOhOQM_XhRsfBDxUMvf2somMZDXMTzdkML4SgR3r8gIoeV_wyQz6Rxojwg5o_vltV7UARcSd4AbdxVZotn1kasKCpnCEIQ0Tua_FepWLQp/w633-h338/Creating%20a%20route%20shown%20in%20pink%20from%20a%20track%20Then%20Checking%20the%20created%20route%20isnt%20going%20over%20land.%20Mapsource%20display%20in%20Google%20Earth%20option%20.bmp" width="633" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage Planning, or sharing with others, after creating a route from a track into a Pancake Creek entrance and then overlaying it on Google Earth using Mapsource. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Recently I uploaded a large GPX file Cruising Guide (over 200 waypoints) to my Garmin GPS 73 using Mapsource, the waypoint icons are not the same but for a screen size of the handheld it doesn't really matter. The routes tracks and waypoints can be displayed on Google Earth to give you an idea of where you’re going or have been. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpf9FViER72EePkJeugGyNk1BL5u07lwqVPzy5mR2h_WkLx08MOdPOKi_L0QhIiiwmF3BNNmAxheIDkRrDt_fBlWcNxP2UfzIol_hnRWhc_58VmWoSe11WJhU3yd97nQRa_UMagc2GqdfLZ68oiz-OSj85BgxoEl97PWFq_cQ2m0HmGyCuTcRXNInR/s2049/Tracks%20in%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20Garmin%20Mapsource%20view%20in%20Google%20Earth%20function.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1101" data-original-width="2049" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpf9FViER72EePkJeugGyNk1BL5u07lwqVPzy5mR2h_WkLx08MOdPOKi_L0QhIiiwmF3BNNmAxheIDkRrDt_fBlWcNxP2UfzIol_hnRWhc_58VmWoSe11WJhU3yd97nQRa_UMagc2GqdfLZ68oiz-OSj85BgxoEl97PWFq_cQ2m0HmGyCuTcRXNInR/w616-h331/Tracks%20in%20Lady%20Musgrave%20Island%20atoll%20Garmin%20Mapsource%20view%20in%20Google%20Earth%20function.bmp" width="616" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking where we have been our track displayed on Google Earth using Mapsource. The same track into the lagoon as seen on the previous programs. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>While I have said its possible to display the information on Google Earth the right version of Google Earth needs to be installed, the newest versions don't connect with Mapsource but I know Google Earth Pro_7.3.1 works with MapSource Ok. The only thing to keep in mind is if you also use Chrome you will need to disable the option to automatically update Google software. If you don't the next time you want to use the GE program, if the PC has been on line its almost guaranteed Google Earth will have upgraded without any input from you. </p><div style="text-align: left;">Link to install the older version of Google Earth </div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://support.google.com/earth/answer/168344#zippy=%2Cdownload-a-google-earth-pro-direct-installer">https://support.google.com/earth/answer/168344#zippy=%2Cdownload-a-google-earth-pro-direct-installer</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once on the above page scroll down the page until you see <b>Download Google Earth Pro for desktop</b></div><div>Then toggle the drop down: <span style="color: #2b00fe;"> Download a Google Earth Pro direct installer</span>. to list the older versions of the program, Select the older version of Google Earth Pro Program for you PC from the list. </div><p>I have on numerous occasions joined short breaks in tracks, or removed the odd position spike with the Mapsource program. While its not possible to edit the actual waypoint numbers you can remove it if it is causing a problem. Some of the other programs GPXeditor and Wordpad can edit the numbers and signs in the coordinates. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_hLzeL3wXRmEWngbQbR8JEW4roQpvGjXJzbU-itYPWPmSg5LcTBW8RPYhvNrGvC95au3Qr6prVW-sE8ri_j9R4FojiRKxRcZwq7DkZWoihPxFzioaX_HCx-a-lx5rNdeJuHD34GCYwMw4L434JO0IV_Rxv2J7PnrLWbVEEmInhxeCZvxz1njijEB/s2712/Data%20spike%20may%20have%20been%20caused%20by%20the%20navigation%20system%20missing%20the%20sign%20on%20the%20lat%20or%20long%20coordinate.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="2712" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_hLzeL3wXRmEWngbQbR8JEW4roQpvGjXJzbU-itYPWPmSg5LcTBW8RPYhvNrGvC95au3Qr6prVW-sE8ri_j9R4FojiRKxRcZwq7DkZWoihPxFzioaX_HCx-a-lx5rNdeJuHD34GCYwMw4L434JO0IV_Rxv2J7PnrLWbVEEmInhxeCZvxz1njijEB/w615-h331/Data%20spike%20may%20have%20been%20caused%20by%20the%20navigation%20system%20missing%20the%20sign%20on%20the%20lat%20or%20long%20coordinate.bmp" width="615" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Data spike may have been caused by the navigation system missing the sign on the coordinate</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbOZ5cAi8Aq2sgxevHT5xq8DSDebxbqdHUdPON9pPlQKZo3Mkb5ybHY7mk-BOUuMu9DPBtKLSoTvapnUeSwVZ_S5M1esxlMJuHhopFehBf5b7AHjwHLuesPg9dBTx4ZSeFEJkGF6_-zx9z515QojzqCvtfJZVkxyfdTKhw1nPwcK7Meuyn1fSWYdZA/s2492/Editing%20viewing%20data%20spike.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1142" data-original-width="2492" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbOZ5cAi8Aq2sgxevHT5xq8DSDebxbqdHUdPON9pPlQKZo3Mkb5ybHY7mk-BOUuMu9DPBtKLSoTvapnUeSwVZ_S5M1esxlMJuHhopFehBf5b7AHjwHLuesPg9dBTx4ZSeFEJkGF6_-zx9z515QojzqCvtfJZVkxyfdTKhw1nPwcK7Meuyn1fSWYdZA/w631-h290/Editing%20viewing%20data%20spike.bmp" width="631" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Editing and viewing data spike, in this case using Mapsource I can really only remove the spike waypoint, there are options to actually fix the spike in other programs mentioned earlier. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><a href="https://www8.garmin.com/support/download_details.jsp?id=209">https://www8.garmin.com/support/download_details.jsp?id=209</a></p><p>Here is an easy way to install the program on a windows computer. Download MapSource software updater from Garmin. </p><div style="text-align: left;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Unpack or extract the content of MapSource_6162.exe download using WinRAR. </div><div style="text-align: left;">2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>From the extracted files, run MAIN.msi or MSMAIN.msi. </div><div style="text-align: left;">3<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Then, run Setup.exe. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Note: The sequence to execute Main.msi and then Setup.exe is important to avoid “Previous MapSource not found!” error. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Garmin MapSource should now be installed. </div><p><b>Reef Master Sonar Viewer</b></p><p>For those of us who have chartplotters that can save out the sonar file or log using .SL2 format there is only one program I found to be useful. Unfortunately it’s not free like the others listed above, however it does have a free trial period. The other drawback I see is that once you download your sonar file and overlay it on the small chart (world base map) there is no way to then save it as a chart usable by the chart plotter or OpenCPN for navigation (unless I am missing the point). </p><p>It is easy to use and may be helpful if you’re trying to explore new territory with the tender before you take in the deeper draft vessel into. </p><p><a href="https://reefmaster.com.au/index.php/try-sonar-viewer">https://reefmaster.com.au/index.php/try-sonar-viewer</a></p><p><br /></p><p><b>The Advanced Option:</b></p><p>A Text Editor that can recognize XML format files, which .GPX files are based on the likes of WordPad or Word to name two of several. I will say this is the advanced option because there are options to edit any part of the file. </p><p>Below is some sample text from a .GPX file opened in a text editor. As can be seen it’s not for the faint at heart. One syntax error and the file may open correctly when returned to the chartplotter/GPS receiver. Always make a back up before doing an edit, if you realize that the file has been corrupted in some way during the time you have it open, just close the program and dont save the file. The file can then be reopened to continue with the edit. </p><p>That said I love to edit files with this option because I can change bulk information using the search and replace. I have on occasions changed all the waypoint icons or been a little more specific with what I was searching for and replaced ones that meet only certain criteria. The good part about the search and replace is I can change a thousand entry's in a number of seconds. The same process doing it one at time would take hours. </p><p>The same can be done for editing individual waypoints. For a while my GPS receiver decided to toggle the east and west sign randomly resulting in large data spikes. Searching through the record is easy using the search function, if for example you are looking for a specific waypoint name, or coordinate, or for that matter waypoint icon. Using wordpad to edit the file, I could edit the way point in question and correct the sign of the Longitude easily.</p><p><b>Always make a backup of the file before editing,</b> and when you have finished the edit push the save key/button, not the save as key.<b> </b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAX7UQKBpsL5bpcO8BDiPhRxlwbO3Z4CLXjQo_uvu43-tEA-gTgkiHSnHZYeINWm8gOJbqyYtwUYlW1nOW_NPFH9yxEA3Aw-veJ5vECoINbAOc1rlYNJfBibLCxCKWNjEdoh2H1oRIkiKZOI9Otcw9koqywUT0_yDZ0LecFAYrOeiG-2BgW2FDzEa_/s779/GPX%20open%20in%20word.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="779" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAX7UQKBpsL5bpcO8BDiPhRxlwbO3Z4CLXjQo_uvu43-tEA-gTgkiHSnHZYeINWm8gOJbqyYtwUYlW1nOW_NPFH9yxEA3Aw-veJ5vECoINbAOc1rlYNJfBibLCxCKWNjEdoh2H1oRIkiKZOI9Otcw9koqywUT0_yDZ0LecFAYrOeiG-2BgW2FDzEa_/w615-h378/GPX%20open%20in%20word.png" width="615" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A page grab of a GPX file open, while it can look daunting as long as your careful then editing this way is quick and easy. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYGlJU0_exWO-k3XijSJPTe0Twm0RJOJXQBYz8WlaUpfD56S8z64TKAfYUePD9IR9eGZzB5cpT05oh3ZojWxH51e329vOCF3W-AEDhJRyf6tDoDsu_-KYUqczG0q19qAPtK-Tgt5vw6IWKGqeuovzUUA6XYUcYQ7KLJP-682-jJ-eU4k7fGyXHElJ/s2730/Correcting%20a%20data%20spike%20using%20word%20pad%20error%20circled%20west%20not%20east%20recorded.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1490" data-original-width="2730" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYGlJU0_exWO-k3XijSJPTe0Twm0RJOJXQBYz8WlaUpfD56S8z64TKAfYUePD9IR9eGZzB5cpT05oh3ZojWxH51e329vOCF3W-AEDhJRyf6tDoDsu_-KYUqczG0q19qAPtK-Tgt5vw6IWKGqeuovzUUA6XYUcYQ7KLJP-682-jJ-eU4k7fGyXHElJ/w659-h360/Correcting%20a%20data%20spike%20using%20word%20pad%20error%20circled%20west%20not%20east%20recorded.bmp" width="659" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Editing a waypoint to remove a data spike in a track record. I found this to be the easiest way to edit this type of error. I use some of the other graphical programs to pinpoint where the error is then quickly find the fault and rectify it. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGGoA1celZd5Dy8tw-T4PFFFA3TfKW5tO61h1oGaovmqnHf0GDrvH_M-PYA4Z3EAfzaYFZGRxRu9DoYNCy8vIyaR2KcVJYdMfYsOqCx3ejJdE1hMW0M2l6Jkfh8iufo-21g8b7ofUACDecAfeaBqqmJuTWTmmDEH-nwkL41OwfKwDzpVwOfh_aciVQ/s733/wordpad%20save%20button.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="733" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGGoA1celZd5Dy8tw-T4PFFFA3TfKW5tO61h1oGaovmqnHf0GDrvH_M-PYA4Z3EAfzaYFZGRxRu9DoYNCy8vIyaR2KcVJYdMfYsOqCx3ejJdE1hMW0M2l6Jkfh8iufo-21g8b7ofUACDecAfeaBqqmJuTWTmmDEH-nwkL41OwfKwDzpVwOfh_aciVQ/w641-h326/wordpad%20save%20button.png" width="641" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When you have finished the edit push the save button as shown here, then to close the file X off the window.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b>OpenCPN</b> </p><p>OpenCPN can also be used to save off specific sets of waypoints, tracks and routes. Actually editing the track files by removing or modifying positional data is not possible. Adding data (links and information) to the waypoints is extremely easy as is assigning a variety of icons to identify the waypoint type. Routes can be modified and waypoint added or removed to dodge obstacles or give a better track to the destination. </p><p>Another nice feature is the ability to include information including the local tide station, and at what scale you can have the waypoint disappear from the chart to reduce clutter. There are also hotkeys to hide other chart features, a quick link to hotkeys to <a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2023/01/opencpn-keyboard-short-cuts-hotkeys.html" target="_blank">reduce clutter</a> here. </p><p>Keep in mind all the nice waypoint symbols available in OpenCPN will be lost if you open and save the GPX files with any of the programs listed other than WordPad or OpenCPN. However, you can open the waypoints and select the waypoint icon once uploaded into OpenCPN.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://opencpn.org">https://opencpn.org</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJhhRlRirIxTbDmI9_0zveAZCQsyDTqeMS1FHQuUQ4Umvp2oxG9kgCQ5SqvSD6DbL3S1j23xyJLUmKnrrQNBWAIcyJAisJLACMemM2fnsy_t0ZTHKwPJIQoLYc1zX-KGdRlBawdilSIVnh_-RJv2gn0BUYmJeKF2OivjgX-c1MQ9WnoWs33kBd7lg/s2706/Adding%20information%20in%20waypoint%20text%20box.%20Its%20a%20great%20help%20for%20those%20following.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2706" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJhhRlRirIxTbDmI9_0zveAZCQsyDTqeMS1FHQuUQ4Umvp2oxG9kgCQ5SqvSD6DbL3S1j23xyJLUmKnrrQNBWAIcyJAisJLACMemM2fnsy_t0ZTHKwPJIQoLYc1zX-KGdRlBawdilSIVnh_-RJv2gn0BUYmJeKF2OivjgX-c1MQ9WnoWs33kBd7lg/w599-h341/Adding%20information%20in%20waypoint%20text%20box.%20Its%20a%20great%20help%20for%20those%20following.bmp" width="599" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Information stored in Waypoint information text box, easy access to additional information is just a double click away. Just double click the waypoint to access any information if there is any about the waypoint. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWs947bqzcxrn0kkS09F_49mHB-eX104j773NbRKgvtRN6fK6I-qXlqGwgUwIZruQjb5XNPxZC39Ku3drlRNyrE8DWPVT4KllrtnqaVYfXvGSdsdfDtZGUPziAIvPR4j_Nbvuf6-YxITi9mf2UwgFZe8iB9X9uRmNUFqhWqCNgarvbpCsnKBY4m08z/s1536/Creating%20a%20link%20to%20cruising%20guide%20using%20OpenCPN.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1260" height="523" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWs947bqzcxrn0kkS09F_49mHB-eX104j773NbRKgvtRN6fK6I-qXlqGwgUwIZruQjb5XNPxZC39Ku3drlRNyrE8DWPVT4KllrtnqaVYfXvGSdsdfDtZGUPziAIvPR4j_Nbvuf6-YxITi9mf2UwgFZe8iB9X9uRmNUFqhWqCNgarvbpCsnKBY4m08z/w429-h523/Creating%20a%20link%20to%20cruising%20guide%20using%20OpenCPN.bmp" width="429" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creating a link to a cruising guide stored on the local PC to open at page 22 </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="https://svmatilda.blogspot.com/2019/07/opencpn-interactive-cruising-guide.html" target="_blank">A guide to creating your own links</a> to a cruising guide or even a website (internet connection required) <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfljxAb7MRDBoibzF8tFnyFyEKfzNui5D1xYrqD3ca5Wc2JT2Zc6IoQKUC0l9W0WI9jDGgeq_nxt8CCjr7yjBIHEtJS3r7KFi3py0exM2CdAk7Ps8TXCocOn26L-YyTRXfpTtvZO3clR3-28QX7xe1FSXjPcemnyXXll1lVva6BUVQCeUh2k0ye3k/s1472/Gove%20Anchorage%20Information%20for%20anchoring%20and%20a%20Link%20in%20the%20waypoint%20information%20tab%20opens%20a%20cruising%20guide%20stored%20on%20the%20comp.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1472" data-original-width="1450" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfljxAb7MRDBoibzF8tFnyFyEKfzNui5D1xYrqD3ca5Wc2JT2Zc6IoQKUC0l9W0WI9jDGgeq_nxt8CCjr7yjBIHEtJS3r7KFi3py0exM2CdAk7Ps8TXCocOn26L-YyTRXfpTtvZO3clR3-28QX7xe1FSXjPcemnyXXll1lVva6BUVQCeUh2k0ye3k/w405-h412/Gove%20Anchorage%20Information%20for%20anchoring%20and%20a%20Link%20in%20the%20waypoint%20information%20tab%20opens%20a%20cruising%20guide%20stored%20on%20the%20comp.bmp" width="405" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished link in the waypoint properties, tide station information and scale information can also be stored in a .GPX file created on OpenCPN. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUgCU8GzXPKigZ981MynxHglKI5MPjrlp3FVk18ZknvyuB5xbgdOZ3YJ70eX_LXOa8I56j6jcWTKTVUIAK1jFThOSjMBk0JfgdK8cekvcvqfDm6_oc88DrGR0YE9R49yJgdyrkwO4B731-9TAW26MCMxJqU1dPWEu1YZZ24_rgCI6mZq5SREoY8oO/s1638/Information%20stored%20in%20Waypoint%20information%20text%20box.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1474" data-original-width="1638" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUgCU8GzXPKigZ981MynxHglKI5MPjrlp3FVk18ZknvyuB5xbgdOZ3YJ70eX_LXOa8I56j6jcWTKTVUIAK1jFThOSjMBk0JfgdK8cekvcvqfDm6_oc88DrGR0YE9R49yJgdyrkwO4B731-9TAW26MCMxJqU1dPWEu1YZZ24_rgCI6mZq5SREoY8oO/w403-h363/Information%20stored%20in%20Waypoint%20information%20text%20box.bmp" width="403" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the information stored in Waypoint information text box</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhemHIX9wOMjXIV9XUfL3yeVD_6C6HCLxesQg8z0K0TgKwu0sJTl1fpk8il4X8cixl553hAB9-wh8t4f_mEuDAF4DHTpvscuDbTOP57HjC1FnXKT6Z5SuY2poxV2sPF4vM_wbtzUnh6eTqhNHCnkMJUcxmG8vwu3jNDRr0sJg0SIBLEV9UOjB8Nbhqg/s1330/OpenCPN%20Track%20that%20has%20over%2030%20thousand%20miles%20caused%20by%20large%20data%20spikes%20that%20can%20be%20removed%20or%20repaired.bmp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="994" data-original-width="1330" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhemHIX9wOMjXIV9XUfL3yeVD_6C6HCLxesQg8z0K0TgKwu0sJTl1fpk8il4X8cixl553hAB9-wh8t4f_mEuDAF4DHTpvscuDbTOP57HjC1FnXKT6Z5SuY2poxV2sPF4vM_wbtzUnh6eTqhNHCnkMJUcxmG8vwu3jNDRr0sJg0SIBLEV9UOjB8Nbhqg/w551-h412/OpenCPN%20Track%20that%20has%20over%2030%20thousand%20miles%20caused%20by%20large%20data%20spikes%20that%20can%20be%20removed%20or%20repaired.bmp" width="551" /></a><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OpenCPN Track that has over 30 thousand miles caused by large data spikes that can be removed or repaired by some of the programs listed. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpGq2_aFSLR8e9Uw-xaj82B5NoNW0XByorv7riSBz22P6izh_Dpk6j68vdVPxocOH1d3Yfuno7fPQ4SuVvrjpfSBCvBfuE5s9DIUqniwizbtqRgsthbcKyfdIcLoWOjhPOK8c_7e3A1XbhpMIM6lY_8GGSibPvPJI5zF3dev-pDdoALwhqByjwR3qg/s1103/OpenCPN%20additional%20info%20stored%20in%20GPX.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="1103" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpGq2_aFSLR8e9Uw-xaj82B5NoNW0XByorv7riSBz22P6izh_Dpk6j68vdVPxocOH1d3Yfuno7fPQ4SuVvrjpfSBCvBfuE5s9DIUqniwizbtqRgsthbcKyfdIcLoWOjhPOK8c_7e3A1XbhpMIM6lY_8GGSibPvPJI5zF3dev-pDdoALwhqByjwR3qg/w651-h411/OpenCPN%20additional%20info%20stored%20in%20GPX.png" width="651" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The additional information available to be stored in the GPX file. As can be seen here the tide station and range rings can be displayed. There is also a number of ways for the waypoint to be displayed including not being shown at all or being hidden once the chart is above a selected scale. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Always make a backup of the file before editing</b><br /><div style="text-align: left;">As a general rule no matter which program I use, I will always make a backup of the file before editing it just in case I somehow corrupt the structure or even remove too much data. After editing a file try and display the saved route, track or waypoint on the chart plotter or Google Earth looking for errors. It’s simple things that could cause problems later, like tracks or routes passing over sandbars, reefs or land. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-61897885451532006132023-01-22T14:20:00.003+10:002023-06-06T10:21:45.169+10:00 Washing Machine on Board<p style="text-align: justify;"> <b>Washing Machine on Board Our Journey. </b>While reading a recent article in a Cruising magazine, I noticed that a lot of ladies settling into the cruising life had a common complaint, of not having a washing machine on board. I thought if we told our story it may help others and perhaps shed some light on the fact that it may not be as big a problem as it first appears. The reality is the more things that we can do to make life on the water easier the better it is so we can have more time to spend doing what we enjoy.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">For a long time we didn’t have a washing machine on board, I wouldn’t come into the argument that it will save time and effort. However, looking back I think my main aversion to having a washing machine was due to not being able to get my head around where to store it. In my mind’s eye all I could see was domestic machines and I think that added to the problem of size. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Besides, at the time we were in a marina securely fastened to the dock and were in a stone’s throw of the amenities block, and really it was all too easy to sweep the problem under the rug. Having full time employment we determined that the cost of the weeks washing wasn’t going to break the bank. At the time we were allowed to hang the washing on the boat to dry. If we weren’t, no one said anything about the boat being full of clothes so we took that as an endorsement of the practice. Although, now we do know some marina managers are on to a line full of clothes quicker than a hungry kid eats a jam doughnut.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JuhVar6yc_HFCaOQ9gaVZy1Tn8MtZilYGfgvpU3UyjMR9W7lMOmADETBlELqLc_2_Le6wkNp3bialvB-Qh8JbUvPcSkxE4ydm8jLR24bXJQ4AmDJu3W2jK01xyDbAJij15_5AxcM0DAWAwfh19rpJAXPcnlkWOfIPUrDHWffjLv1IAfgpEFCuQCl/s6000/Washing%20day%20in%20paradise.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JuhVar6yc_HFCaOQ9gaVZy1Tn8MtZilYGfgvpU3UyjMR9W7lMOmADETBlELqLc_2_Le6wkNp3bialvB-Qh8JbUvPcSkxE4ydm8jLR24bXJQ4AmDJu3W2jK01xyDbAJij15_5AxcM0DAWAwfh19rpJAXPcnlkWOfIPUrDHWffjLv1IAfgpEFCuQCl/w398-h265/Washing%20day%20in%20paradise.JPG" width="398" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wash day in a secluded bay, no problem having the wash hung out to dry. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">Once we went cruising full time, I quickly learnt that we had been living in a marina with very reasonably priced washers and dryers. In the first marina we visited after leaving our home base we found the price for a load of washing was double what we had been paying. To top it off, the marina managers expressly prohibited the drying of clothes on the vessel, so that meant more out lay of the cruising kitty to dry the clothes. Micro seconds after hanging the recently used damp towel over the rail one of his boys was knocking on the hull asking if we had read the six hundred marina rules and in particular rule five hundred and ten subsection B ‘thou shalt not dry clothes or towels in view’. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">We also came to realize we couldn’t continue to rely on being in marinas as we were going to be spending a lot of time at anchor to maximise the cruising budget. When we dropped anchor in a new port we would have to work out where the local laundry was and washing day became an expedition similar to resupply day. We became quite efficient at finding our way there and back on public transport. Like resupply expeditions out and about we saw a lot things the people who stay full time in marinas miss.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"> On the other side of the coin some of the things we did see could not be unseen if you know what I mean. We would have loved to have used the local port marina laundries. But as we found out this is not allowed because we were not paying guests. I would have understood if the machines were free and installed only for the marina guests but mostly these machines were more expensive than the ones in town. Price wise our out of pocket expenses would have broken even due to the transport costs. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Heck one marina manager wanted to charge us to tie up the tender to buy fuel and gas (supplied through him) and use his washing machines. No other amenities were included in the price of tying up the tender at ½ the day rate of a berth for a thirteen metre yacht, we left feeling upset. It’s no wonder this marina has to give away seafood dinners to get people to stay. In spite of the success of getting our clothes washed in town we decided that we needed a plan for when we travelled further afield. We didn’t want to be dependent on feeding coins into the laundry’s in town, so we had to work out a way to wash our clothes on board easily.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">After reading glowing reviews about a camping washing machine we had a brain snap and in came the egg shaped clothes washer supported on a flimsy stand and powered by a hand crank. The unit’s advertised selling point said it was able to wash a 1kg load in minutes with a minimum amount of water. Sounds great to me, so an internet search followed and the new washer was purchased on line, then shipped to the local post office. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg149FM6-WOOh8dzSTjrVdRPbLDmhpxLVhE0P5QwaNaCVR1nv75P7E01xlxUkNW7T_z-9xndQu5Y2ScCpCeEpFq-plY9L1jHB6u09cBzW2axC9wEx1-uXYBBqKp1orcuJw4S8ccWpfymt2LrVrwg-D71Xe6y1NwNet953KUhOJrtYbxh-M5IgZbdn_i/s1000/0034152_ezywash-washing-machine.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="845" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg149FM6-WOOh8dzSTjrVdRPbLDmhpxLVhE0P5QwaNaCVR1nv75P7E01xlxUkNW7T_z-9xndQu5Y2ScCpCeEpFq-plY9L1jHB6u09cBzW2axC9wEx1-uXYBBqKp1orcuJw4S8ccWpfymt2LrVrwg-D71Xe6y1NwNet953KUhOJrtYbxh-M5IgZbdn_i/s320/0034152_ezywash-washing-machine.jpeg" width="270" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While I appear to give this machine a bad rap, used for small loads and rotated slowly as its meant to operate it would be ok, it just wasn't up to the task we had in mind</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">While our galley has reasonably good counter space the newly acquired machine didn’t really fit so we could use it easily, and the chart table was out of the question lest the lid fly off and drench the charts and instruments stored or mounted behind. So we would use it in the cockpit, but when this hand cranked machine was in use it was hard to keep it in one place as the centrifugal force would try to fling it off the seat or try and launch it into space. Then we slowed the crank speed down but it still didn’t work as we had envisaged. This portable, efficient and environmentally friendly washer didn’t really work for us, perhaps we overloaded it, but I don’t think so. The other reason for its down fall was that it took up more space than we had budgeted for (304 mm x 406 mm) and finding a counter top to use it on wasn’t easy. The stand that supported the twirling egg shaped drum really did leave a lot to be desired. At the next town we visited we left the hand cranked egg in a laundry after we used the facilities and put the whole episode down to experience. You know how it goes ‘Experience is that what you get when you didn't get what you wanted’.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">After a nice season in the Whitsundays we headed to Sydney with plans to tour Tasmania. That all came to an end when I broke a couple of ribs in a fall. We ended up in Eden while I recuperated and a couple of things came to light. Taking the weeks laundry into the town laundry wasn’t easy, the first part of the trip was getting the washing into the tender and with broken ribs that didn’t happen easily unless we did the transfer in small loads, of course getting it out at the jetty was just as tiresome. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">On a trip into town to get a gas bottle filled we found the local gas supplier also had a shop full of goodies. In amongst the displays of home brew kits and camping gear was two small washing machines. These machines looked like domestic machines just smaller. Or as we have become used to saying here while traversing Asia ‘same same but different’. Debs eyes widened and rather than take a jab to the ribs I quickly took down the details of the machines and when back on board we discussed the pros and cons of the two machines. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSejIwTc7pe0_SYbD2hHQOIxamuzRvzLoOYJeDyo3bcnC64QxhAr87iNHY_ClbDmnDtLiiPPq8M1dPqD6XSrUflsVR-KBd6TENongn_qWzCigEXNh2shjDMjA5WGJ8xRow5yJIS-O8iehMaOQ9Dmeh1ikJQukW_53Q5jhLyC2bueLgCFqYttuo8peU/s6000/Our%20washer%20in%20all%20its%20glory.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="463" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSejIwTc7pe0_SYbD2hHQOIxamuzRvzLoOYJeDyo3bcnC64QxhAr87iNHY_ClbDmnDtLiiPPq8M1dPqD6XSrUflsVR-KBd6TENongn_qWzCigEXNh2shjDMjA5WGJ8xRow5yJIS-O8iehMaOQ9Dmeh1ikJQukW_53Q5jhLyC2bueLgCFqYttuo8peU/w308-h463/Our%20washer%20in%20all%20its%20glory.JPG" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new washing machine keeping it simple. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">Later that evening we called up a few of the long term cruising couples we know to find out if they had machines on board. As it turns out they all had washing machines and from the short conversations with them we certainly found far more reasons to have a machine than not. One line hit home ‘couldn’t afford not to have one on board old boy’. What we did find interesting was the group was evenly divided between a fully automatic machines and the older style twin tub. One couple had a full size front loader machine fitted into their modern cruising yacht, but they wished they had a smaller machine due to the space requirements and water usage. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTVV60CvDAEItSPxPRvxfO_04NJI2FIQS4eZm5vwCOdGq6Zw-BFTJU09JBunYTESt5x5VbngWdFRHGCVdDhlPUwTkNavr1R5-iw1qCq-xXZ9WgrZ-LHj9HED5f9-iFP5ReaZ_Rhu4Ea0kJKHNQlOX1R5lmRPi5wm0TFKAM6ELX_8rZgMOQRd1hrEF/s6000/Our%20washer%20stored.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTVV60CvDAEItSPxPRvxfO_04NJI2FIQS4eZm5vwCOdGq6Zw-BFTJU09JBunYTESt5x5VbngWdFRHGCVdDhlPUwTkNavr1R5-iw1qCq-xXZ9WgrZ-LHj9HED5f9-iFP5ReaZ_Rhu4Ea0kJKHNQlOX1R5lmRPi5wm0TFKAM6ELX_8rZgMOQRd1hrEF/w265-h399/Our%20washer%20stored.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washing machine stored and ready to go</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">Where to store the washing machine is a perplexing problem for more than one cruising skipper. I must admit it was one of the reasons I was so anti washing machine on our vessel. Now we know the smaller light weight units don’t need a dedicated cupboard space for storage/mounting. Being light weight we can easily move it around the cabin on wash day and when not in use it finds a place amongst the pleather of items in one of our back cabins or should that be store rooms. The machine is easily secured before a passage with a simple cargo strap connected to pad eyes. So the machine doesn’t need to take up large amounts of cupboard space like a domestic sized machine. Mounting was not an issue and the other thing that made the smaller machines attractive to us was that we didn’t need to plumb in water, power and overcome the complexities of drainage to remove the waste water. If we want we can take the machine on deck and do the washing there or in the cockpit. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Our vessel is fitted with a pure sine wave inverter, and we have a reasonably large battery bank. The inverter is capable of supplying 2500 watts so this was one hurdle we didn’t need to jump. So if you are thinking about installing an inverter, while it may be slightly more expensive to start with, get a pure sine wave output. There are several reasons to get a pure sine rather than a modified sine. Running shore based/house hold appliances efficiently is one of them. The modified sine or quasi sine units do not operate house hold appliances efficiently, especially motor driven appliances (washing machines) these may break down, burn out prematurely or if they are electronically controlled they may not work at all.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-Bnwrofd6b2Vx7TaP4-oV6-QMECijxreTxPIYZHfhv6XSL835N_UkNFrGMF8PwGqzGMYDpn1Mgb_6tbBbQbbaLtx8txHTdKVOymym4AiiRHBuXa4-1mGWq1HfSUDnosGaFLKvIiTRomkW24ha3vLEKk9RBkDbmflc-Wz74w0rkhA3gsmELa0Qy1D/s5472/2500%20Watt%20Inverter%20%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-Bnwrofd6b2Vx7TaP4-oV6-QMECijxreTxPIYZHfhv6XSL835N_UkNFrGMF8PwGqzGMYDpn1Mgb_6tbBbQbbaLtx8txHTdKVOymym4AiiRHBuXa4-1mGWq1HfSUDnosGaFLKvIiTRomkW24ha3vLEKk9RBkDbmflc-Wz74w0rkhA3gsmELa0Qy1D/w309-h464/2500%20Watt%20Inverter%20%20.JPG" width="309" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A big inverter, a lot bigger than necessary to run a washing machine, it is however a pure sine wave inverter which is best for running electric motors. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">You don’t really need a generator when installing a washing machine if you get the right machine, of course you will still need to do your homework and make sure you don’t deplete the batteries or overload the inverter. On the subject of generators we know of two couples who have troubles with running their washing machine on the generator. It appears there is stray RF interference that causes problems with the controls (automatic machines). Of the two who have problems one of the vessels can use the machine once the batteries are nearly fully charged, so perhaps the battery charger is causing some form of interference. The other couple could not get their machine to work on the generator at all, but it would work fine on the inverter. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Some of the white goods; (read) washing machines available at main stream white good retailers may not be suitable for a smaller boat. Some of the newer units can take over an hour on a quick wash, not sure how this works but this is also supposed to be environmentally friendly and consume less power. But I wonder if this overall power consumption is including all the power saved outside the house due to the small water usage. When running on an inverter or generator the best option is to have a washing machine that is efficient while also having as short a run time as possible. Do you need a dryer to go with the washer, well that would certainly need a generator due to the load on the electrical system to heat the dryer elements. I do know it is possible to run a dryer on an inverter, but the battery bank necessary to supply the required power for the time required to dry a load would mean the vessel battery bank would be enormous. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCY7q-YIpD_KhVoXLW4Vf9wKNlR8_S1a7oMhdHXAfcY2DDJ9--Z82B2LO8cQPRZY01BM3kY3Zg-1lLloWh3oFoZNhYLEFaKQoAd5-plGuzsub8Eg0nNxAmaCd7b-ui7VhFAj7YgKgF6fYK9bdq5QZhObsHhVrQWQEnJAzgbdtGigfXArXn_0BjSS0/s800/700-00362low_3.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCY7q-YIpD_KhVoXLW4Vf9wKNlR8_S1a7oMhdHXAfcY2DDJ9--Z82B2LO8cQPRZY01BM3kY3Zg-1lLloWh3oFoZNhYLEFaKQoAd5-plGuzsub8Eg0nNxAmaCd7b-ui7VhFAj7YgKgF6fYK9bdq5QZhObsHhVrQWQEnJAzgbdtGigfXArXn_0BjSS0/s320/700-00362low_3.webp" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A neat and tidy 12 Volt washing machine. However it does have a dark side, it will consume 78 litres per-load. If your water supply is good then go for it as its a fully automatic unit. I think it main market is RV campers in a park with connected water supply. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">Water usage can be a problem, while we have a water maker we found the best thing to do is every time we start the motor we run the water maker even if the water tanks are nearly full. The excess water is stored in a couple of jerry cans we keep for back up water supply. A good reason to keep a couple of jerry cans of water is so you don’t have to run the ships water pressure supply when filling the washing machine. Then with simple water management when doing washing loads we have found we don’t need a great deal of water for several days washing. Really our clothes just don’t get that dirty on the boat unless we have a breakdown or need to do some dirty work. When cruising in Australia and most of Asia we have found it is reasonably easy to get a couple of jerry cans filled up, so we can do a load or two of washing. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsAaea0O0T0ZLJz9qynFaJ0RXtEnFwSuFIAP5Z8O--__38H8F6Vcc8XPMaymsTP7bIOi7oSUUO6y94pZXROL07Qc2gH8AkfS2bHp95Fcvp7QMGlwZzt_w6Xtry4cJo5kg-Vd3Y-V1R_7HG-4jHWCOxncz4kO-0Pb8Ph3NpclGvjeA4VlDcpqHDS0N/s558/BCF_539785_hi-res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="558" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsAaea0O0T0ZLJz9qynFaJ0RXtEnFwSuFIAP5Z8O--__38H8F6Vcc8XPMaymsTP7bIOi7oSUUO6y94pZXROL07Qc2gH8AkfS2bHp95Fcvp7QMGlwZzt_w6Xtry4cJo5kg-Vd3Y-V1R_7HG-4jHWCOxncz4kO-0Pb8Ph3NpclGvjeA4VlDcpqHDS0N/w372-h372/BCF_539785_hi-res.jpg" width="372" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another fully automatic machine, not sure on the water use as its not listed in the spec sheet. There is no reason the rinse water couldn't be recycled to be used in the next wash load with a little thought. </td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">Plumbing, ok so this is where it gets tricky, or not. Our washing machine does not require water plumbed in to make it function. Some models do and it would not be a big job to supply water to the machine. If you’re handy a ‘T’ off the water supply with a ball valve and a domestic style connector will do, but there are lots of options. Drainage, we put the waste water into a slump in the bilge and pump it over the side, bio degradable environmentally friendly washing powder is a must, but still don’t do the washing in a coral atoll. This slump and pump arrangement works well for us as we recycle water during the wash cycles but more on this later. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Ok here are the specs of the two machine’s we were deciding on, there are other models now on the market. Different brands have different specs and load capacities, but the increased load capability usually also increases water usage. Both of the machines we short listed were Ezy Wash Portable washing machine and as you can see neither are very heavy to move around. The sizes are for the lid down so if fitted into a cupboard allowance will need to be made for the lid to open. Reading between the lines, neither machine will pump water out, the drainage is gravity feed. The automatic machine will dump not pump the water out when the cycle is finished. The Twin tub has a drain leaver that must be switched to facilitate emptying the machine. We know cruisers who have the automatic machine and love it, we didn’t go down that route due to not being able to control water usage and the need to plumb in the water to fill the machine. Neither machine are heavy on the power. The twin tub 240 Watt machine will suck just over 20 Amps from the batteries through the inverter when running normally and if you crank up the spin at the same time we usually see 32 Amp draw on the twelve volt battery bank for the short time the spin runs for. It’s hard to give a specific number due to the intermittent forward reverse function of the agitator. The final figures you see will vary and be dependent on the efficiency of your inverter. </p><p><br /></p><p><b>Portable Automatic Washing Machine</b><span style="white-space: pre;"> </span></p><p>Features <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>Specifications</p><p>Fully automatic with spin function<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Size: 640H x 420W x 410L mm</p><p>Electronic control system <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Overall Weight: 16 Kgs</p><p>Plated steel tub <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Power: 220-240VAC / 50 Hz</p><p>Lint filter <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Rated Power: 235 watts</p><p>Automatic draining <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Max Water Pressure: 0.6Mpa</p><p>Six washing programs <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Capacity: 2.5 Kgs</p><p>Water Inlet Hose: 1000 mm</p><p>Water Outlet Hose: 1400 mm</p><p>Max Water Use: 60Ltr (on high setting)</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuAr303qUywiX-sb9-YTMQHf3oJbhDy5vi-w4G90NlWUa7JMVsME8n6FMqzcS0BcrwYEMUvmwbtj4L_3pKQy-xVXG8iYBFTE2Y0XOoelW_CboBOOzug316ESKb35OhM4xiu5r2derwpLyIJEMjHVwxX6h0BxHdEwGbPgB4JpYvyfdtS1TaH2Kn9tb/s6000/My%20what%20big%20bowls%20you%20have%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuAr303qUywiX-sb9-YTMQHf3oJbhDy5vi-w4G90NlWUa7JMVsME8n6FMqzcS0BcrwYEMUvmwbtj4L_3pKQy-xVXG8iYBFTE2Y0XOoelW_CboBOOzug316ESKb35OhM4xiu5r2derwpLyIJEMjHVwxX6h0BxHdEwGbPgB4JpYvyfdtS1TaH2Kn9tb/s320/My%20what%20big%20bowls%20you%20have%20.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My what big bowls you have </td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Portable Twin Tub Washing Machine</b></p><p>Features <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> <span> </span><span> </span></span></span>Specifications</p><p>Top loading twin tub with spinner <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Rated Voltage: 240V AC/50Hz</p><p>2.0kg wash and spin capacity <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Rated Power: 240W - wash and (+) 120W - spin</p><p>Wash and spin cycle with timer<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Size: 650H x 560W x 362D mm</p><p>Two wash levels – normal and gentle <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Capacity: 2.0kg </p><p>Quiet operation <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></span>Overall Weight: 12.0kg</p><p>Bottom mounted agitator</p><p>Strong ABS plastic housing</p><p>Self-draining</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Why did we get the twin tub, well KISS (keep it simple sailor), we had total control over the length of time the cycle runs either wash or spin. There were no fancy electronic controls to play up. The housing and bowls were plastic not coated steel, so this should alleviate any problems with rust in the marine environment. Water usage was also totally in our control. Now back to the recycling water that we do, when the rinsing of the first load is complete we use this water for the next wash load that is of course unless someone has just rinsed a new red towel. We have also found that the tub of wash (detergent) water is good for two loads, so is the rinse water, both are dependent on water colour and what is being washed or rinsed. The only tricky part to recycling water is to catch the water out of the clothes being spun, we simply catch it in a bucket and put it back into the machine. Our water usage for four kilograms of washing will usually be about forty litres. It’s a little more work but easily accomplished in a morning, all without having to feed money into shore based machines or breaking the on board power or water budget. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">In conclusion, </p><p style="text-align: justify;">We have come across some frontloading compact washing machines, not as light or portable as the machines we had shortlisted for our vessel. These are worth a look if you’re contemplating a machine and have a dedicated room to mount/install a front loading washing machine. When making enquiries you will be looking for a Compact Washing Machine, these are not stocked in any of the main stream white goods retailers that we contacted. Start with the RV/caravan accessory suppliers then once you start to make enquiries you can usually find a supplier in your area. Like us you will more than likely find one or two machines are rebranded and distributed and sold under different brands for widely varying prices, so shop around. One thing I would do is make sure the specifications they are supplying are for the machine you want to purchase, I have seen a wide variation for the same machine in the advertised specs. Getting it in writing via email should be easy and that way if the truth has been stretched on water usage or power consumption you have recourse. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The popular ones I have seen are capable of doing a 3 to 3.5 kg load. As I have already stated the weight of the machine may be a problem if you are thinking of moving it around on wash day. The average weight of most is just under or over 50kg, most of which is a weight to help stop the unit being hurled into low earths orbit during the spin dry cycles. Power consumption varies of course, some draw as little as 230 watts so this is something that shouldn’t break the power budget. However do your research on power consumption as we did find a wide variation between machines right up to 1700 watts for one machine when doing a hot water wash, by the sounds of that it’s heating the water. Water consumption also varies between machines and some have specs that show excellent consumption, for example 19 litres on low setting and 45 litres on high setting. There isn’t a great deal of difference in the size of the compact machines or the one we have for that matter, the average sizes are 700mm(h)x510mm(w)x440mm (d) and being a front loader additional space above isn’t necessary like you would need for the top loaders. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mPkwMAgV5wePLaxxQO8fFKU986B9s25IVDbgE3j_9AZqiqOieJ_JPRyy1_RUqMg3lSGqnPIhzr6xyEDAKCFrNeWHs2vzFuXmd9WyFy83Oyi5oLl1gm-LIpyt2SzLNyyhTMn_rlUrNxhnhju8zKmHMxr1ihC2FZFXC3q8-QxeHcPvOLRvmeU2ZsbW/s2272/Front%20loader%20secured%20for%20passage%20.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2272" data-original-width="1704" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mPkwMAgV5wePLaxxQO8fFKU986B9s25IVDbgE3j_9AZqiqOieJ_JPRyy1_RUqMg3lSGqnPIhzr6xyEDAKCFrNeWHs2vzFuXmd9WyFy83Oyi5oLl1gm-LIpyt2SzLNyyhTMn_rlUrNxhnhju8zKmHMxr1ihC2FZFXC3q8-QxeHcPvOLRvmeU2ZsbW/s320/Front%20loader%20secured%20for%20passage%20.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front loader secured for passage</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: justify;">I was able to get a picture of one of our friend’s machine. It is fitted into the back cabin of their modern Jeanneau yacht, being a front loader the machine doesn’t need any overhead space for the lid to open. Their machine is a Candy Aquamatic 3.2kg machine they don’t move it around and it is all set up for use in place. When in use on the rapid cycle the machine will use <25 litres of water. They are very happy with the operation and performance of the machine. Securing is simple with the use of two cargo straps to keep it in place on passages. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Fair winds and happy sailing</p>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-84766999864155265362023-01-20T14:17:00.004+10:002023-01-24T13:28:20.477+10:00Bahasa - English Chart Text Cross Reference<p> A simple cross reference, Bahasa to English for the most commonly used text descriptors when using charts in the local language. However in most cases the charts, either electronic or paper for Indonesia and Malaysia will use the Bahasa names to give detail to the chart. We printed it, laminated it, and kept it near the chart table/radio and also did one for the cockpit chartplotter. </p><div style="text-align: left;">Batu <span> </span>(Br)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Rock</div><div style="text-align: left;">Bukit (B) <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hill</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Gosang <span> </span>(Gs)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bank, Shoal</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Gunung <span> </span>(G)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mountain</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Kantangan <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Mud Flat</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Karang <span> </span>(Kr)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Reef</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Palau <span> </span><span> </span>(P)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Island</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Puncak<span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> <span> </span></span></span>Peak</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Selat <span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Strait</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Tanjung <span> </span>(Tg)<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Point</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Teluk <span> </span>(Tk) <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bay</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Ujung <span> </span>(Ug) <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Point</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Besar<span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Big</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Kesil<span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Small</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">Laut<span style="white-space: pre;"> <span> </span><span> </span></span>Sea</div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;">We also made really good use of the Google Translate App however you need a phone/internet connection to make it work. </div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-54384516164461173392023-01-18T20:29:00.012+10:002023-01-20T06:04:57.420+10:00Cruising Spinnaker and How We Use Ours<div style="text-align: justify;">Here is a post outlining how we set up and fly our cruising spinnaker, we have done a lot of miles under this very handy sail especially when we were getting into the equator regions. In those regions we would set the sail day after day to get where we were going. The funny (not funny ha ha) thing is a lot of cruisers wont go near one of these sails. We have even heard them called the widow makers, unfortunately the sail can get bad press and we can see how if you don't have the right setup. We borrowed a sail and sock one time, and it was a terrible set up that caused nothing but confusion. The sail its self was ok but the ring thing, the best way to describe the sock arrangement was terrible to set the sail but worse to douse. The reality is for hassle free set up and the all important, dousing, you need a good sock and a way to quickly de-power the sail. Keep it simple and remember that if your keeping a good eye on the wind strength and pull it in when its on the rise, life will be a lot smoother for the captain and crew. Happy crew = a happy life. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivSAczgarz80bFaeyuKCvBit13-JQtQZUevwbNtgxwdyJf0qJDwJCTIVlTFrektenSJ3BRDBFetC7et5F00BWkqLt6zQFqvQPLCbhBXzioDu9x2Ym8oQpB-4hd2NVVUwV4BNcMiEqhoBvs2pz_xvcfKHrTBxCUyHChooQBfsk_WcYYyP3NU3xnmvD7/s708/front%20cover%20Dec%202019.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="565" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivSAczgarz80bFaeyuKCvBit13-JQtQZUevwbNtgxwdyJf0qJDwJCTIVlTFrektenSJ3BRDBFetC7et5F00BWkqLt6zQFqvQPLCbhBXzioDu9x2Ym8oQpB-4hd2NVVUwV4BNcMiEqhoBvs2pz_xvcfKHrTBxCUyHChooQBfsk_WcYYyP3NU3xnmvD7/w296-h372/front%20cover%20Dec%202019.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here we are as we make way with our cruising spinnaker up </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">On numerous occasions I have heard or read about people saying they have to motor consistently because the weather forecast got it wrong and the wind isn’t blowing or it’s not blowing the way it was forecast. Often the conversation will go along the lines of “we got up this morning and the forecast was for 10-12 Kn. (Knots) and when we were out at sea there wasn’t any wind”.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">It’s
a perception thing a lot of the time. The reality is the forecast was
more than likely right and the wind was indeed blowing 10-12 Kn. With
the boat speed (under motor) of 5 - 6 Kn. the apparent wind speed for
sailing will look pretty low. If the wind was blowing 12 Kn. and you
are moving along at 6 Kn. in the direction of the wind the apparent
wind will only be 6 Kn. In some cases this isn’t enough to get the
average cruising boat moving along very fast with the wind. Then throw in a little swell and before long the main and head sail will flap back and forth and make a terrible noise. Another
reason to think the forecast </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">wind direction wasn’t right is due to the apparent wind angles. This can take a bit to get your head around,
the lighter the wind the easier it is to be tricked into thinking the
wind is coming in forward of the beam when the true wind is actually
blowing abaft the beam.</span></div><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIsc2RKaEqB9R84jD0TeIz0MHvAq8TCOl2FIEhY5pGLheHXEtO1deWAqaur949_L2UuF7cJoEDF3AP4P9P0nD_Wd2TwT9PKIqPmxoORSROwYLCvUmi5lcP7ptn2fQX8AgOihQ_jLfL5Gr2558aQ6wrnazLPmlyYRUUip5ZRTXrl9wdZ4Ndfx8Daj1/s6000/Not%20a%20lot%20of%20wind%20its%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20time.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIsc2RKaEqB9R84jD0TeIz0MHvAq8TCOl2FIEhY5pGLheHXEtO1deWAqaur949_L2UuF7cJoEDF3AP4P9P0nD_Wd2TwT9PKIqPmxoORSROwYLCvUmi5lcP7ptn2fQX8AgOihQ_jLfL5Gr2558aQ6wrnazLPmlyYRUUip5ZRTXrl9wdZ4Ndfx8Daj1/w557-h371/Not%20a%20lot%20of%20wind%20its%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20time.JPG" width="557" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Looks like its perfect weather for the cruising spinnaker</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The
reality is the wind will never be blowing in the right direction if
you don’t have the sail to make the most of the conditions. I must
admit we did a lot of motoring when we first started to sail up and
down the coast. Moving about in the trade winds would mean going with
it. Those sunny days with glassy seas and a gentle 10 – 15 Knots
did frustrate us. Even a poled out head sail didn’t help us attain
the speed we required to reach the next anchorage before dark.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>We
talked to others and found a lot of cruisers have cruising spinnakers
but don’t use them very often or at all. </span><span>Most
of the time the cruising spinnaker was inherited with the purchase of
the boat. The new owners feel intimidated about setting and
retrieving a light wind sail. This might be one of the reasons
cruisers choose to forget they have this very handy sail. However if
your set up correctly for a quick and easy deployment and retrieval
there isn’t a great deal more effort in hoisting the cruising
spinnaker then poling out the head sail.</span></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NfnJijqVW4bFmAkFoAQJRs4ibDHB7zy6uhpNjjNqlscjjmTgveYoj4BOuw5AHxKbzcyvZQmKq6Hx70_XLQZ2r01c8lNF78YKVzVB06SX3USOASDOI0k6R3bW6U3nuy5HsM6b2kCuEzOuuxlsAtgfFtcNze1cyLIYYh9u7-puBK7ORJYjgUyj9KgL/s6000/Apparent%20wind%204.7Kn%20Boat%20speed%203.6Kn%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NfnJijqVW4bFmAkFoAQJRs4ibDHB7zy6uhpNjjNqlscjjmTgveYoj4BOuw5AHxKbzcyvZQmKq6Hx70_XLQZ2r01c8lNF78YKVzVB06SX3USOASDOI0k6R3bW6U3nuy5HsM6b2kCuEzOuuxlsAtgfFtcNze1cyLIYYh9u7-puBK7ORJYjgUyj9KgL/s320/Apparent%20wind%204.7Kn%20Boat%20speed%203.6Kn%20.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Not much wind but we were still moving ahead and the motor was resting, as you can see by the 30 degree C water temp in the tropics, the cabin temp was all the better for it. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">What
makes the cruising spinnaker particularly attractive is, that it is
bigger than the conventional genoa and, secondly, it is effective
over a wide range of wind directions and strengths. Unlike the
standard spinnaker that is symmetrical on either side of its
centreline, the cruising spinnaker has a definite luff and leech,
with the luff being the longer of the two. Overall the sail is
approximately 25% smaller in area than a conventional spinnaker, but
it is about twice the surface area of a 150% genoa. The cruising
spinnaker was designed specifically to enhance a boat’s downwind
performance. Even when shorthanded it will make downwind sailing
faster, safe and easy. So with this in mind why are there so many
cruising spinnakers sitting in the sail locker or stuffed into the
lazarette. From our experience the setup of the cruising spinnaker
more than paid for its self in the first season just factoring in
engine maintenance and fuel costs.</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSxOMo03K9qhSMuyJz-o3gH0DBNLMb-5m2PhbYx_ou5GlkWX1kzVq1Z0Oo9-CwW6139hN1sdDodYvbRathr4Nk6a8aPNmIcr112vH6xNOTaudogwDWEtpeHWwvn2a8AizELk_Ro6FZU12XiGbW2sN1ZwDj8Yy9hvnL-NtJBDzXnQzxQodkhEBVSou/s5472/Cruising%20Spinnaker%20up.%20wind%209%20Kn%20at%20less%20than%2060%20Deg%20apparent%20Boat%20speed%205.1%20Kn%20through%20the%20water%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSxOMo03K9qhSMuyJz-o3gH0DBNLMb-5m2PhbYx_ou5GlkWX1kzVq1Z0Oo9-CwW6139hN1sdDodYvbRathr4Nk6a8aPNmIcr112vH6xNOTaudogwDWEtpeHWwvn2a8AizELk_Ro6FZU12XiGbW2sN1ZwDj8Yy9hvnL-NtJBDzXnQzxQodkhEBVSou/w442-h294/Cruising%20Spinnaker%20up.%20wind%209%20Kn%20at%20less%20than%2060%20Deg%20apparent%20Boat%20speed%205.1%20Kn%20through%20the%20water%20(2).JPG" width="442" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Cruising Spinnaker up. wind 9 Kn at less than 60 Degrees apparent and the Boat speed 5.1 Kn through the water. A lot of people don't believe this is possible but here it is and we did it on a regular basis. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Cruising spinnakers are a great
help to easily sailing in light to medium airs across the range from
60 degrees to about 155 apparent wind angle, depending on a few
variables. The cruising spinnaker is often the difference between
motoring all day in light to moderate air or being able to sail at
the same speed or</span> <span>sometimes
more than if you were motoring. However this is without the heat,
noise, smell, and depletion of the cruising budget generated by the
running the engine.</span></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span><br /></span></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyr1K7iYKYDtVBJ-kqTHb-nnhtz5fl8nGELYm46L58dYUnT8QV_fRp4PUSj_AsMbrmje2Z3ugqpAJ1ghDK_mA2OCSLvJODQyOd3ZqUBcSrhJ6TZ3PP8HzwnkzC_WnK_sWl3DFb7oQPuff24SsLOaxeYjG_prk_nQlsLQthTJGjkihSv0bV3CjNIyBu/s6000/In%20very%20light%20airs%20ghosting%20along%20MPS%20up%20with%20out%20the%20main%20as%20a%20shield.%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyr1K7iYKYDtVBJ-kqTHb-nnhtz5fl8nGELYm46L58dYUnT8QV_fRp4PUSj_AsMbrmje2Z3ugqpAJ1ghDK_mA2OCSLvJODQyOd3ZqUBcSrhJ6TZ3PP8HzwnkzC_WnK_sWl3DFb7oQPuff24SsLOaxeYjG_prk_nQlsLQthTJGjkihSv0bV3CjNIyBu/w354-h532/In%20very%20light%20airs%20ghosting%20along%20MPS%20up%20with%20out%20the%20main%20as%20a%20shield.%20.JPG" width="354" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">On days where the breeze was light and there was a little bit of a swell we would not put up the main, if it wasn't up it couldn't flap and carry on, we did however need extra care dousing the sail but that wasn't a problem. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>In
very light air, under about 5-7 Knots true, the cruising spinnaker
can be carried surprisingly close to the wind. We will often ghost
along with the apparent wind forward of the beam. Occasionally
upwards to 55 degrees apparent wind angle with a bit of attention to
trim and steering. Sailing at 60 and 70 degrees is regularly
obtainable with a little care trimming the sail. Of course swell is
the enemy when trying to obtain tight angles of sail, as it will
knock the wind out of your sail quicker than you can say</span> <span>Jack
Robinson.</span></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">While
the cruising spinnaker is basically marketed at being a down wind
sail, here is a table that reflects a typical cruising spinnakers
sailing angles.</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<table cellpadding="7" cellspacing="0" style="width: 245px;">
<colgroup><col width="107"></col>
<col width="108"></col>
</colgroup><tbody><tr>
<td colspan="2" height="5" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" valign="top" width="229"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Sailing Angles and Wind Speed</span></p>
<p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br />
</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td height="7" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="107"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">True Wind Speed</span></p>
</td>
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="108"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Apparent Wind Direction</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td height="3" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="107"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">5 - 10 Knots</span></p>
</td>
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="108"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">55° - 155°</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="107"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">15 Knots</span></p>
</td>
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="108"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">85° - 155°</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="107"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">18 Knots</span></p>
</td>
<td style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" width="108"><p style="orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">120° - 155°</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr></tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding: 0cm 0.19cm;" valign="top" width="229"><p style="margin-left: -0.02cm; orphans: 0; widows: 0;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The table shows the direction
and strength of apparent wind a cruising spinnaker can be
effectively used, depending on fabric weight.</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><br />
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAezzG9GtdudF42cWYx9qqX8RuCSCbF195-UlJtJCXENeFDtD4qniDObFpT9fRehzFXAModdjYvw0Vp4qEo5VCdU0ggrXe2tcoQXuvkT-c39ZY68PHzdhSIGtOdSFLKfU7l8MjQZhRCQpykYksrqYNTMFx-_5wlwKbs_2mo24lwx5Ic746aYvOBiq/s5472/Wing%20on%20Wing%20%20Apparent%20160%20to%20180%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAezzG9GtdudF42cWYx9qqX8RuCSCbF195-UlJtJCXENeFDtD4qniDObFpT9fRehzFXAModdjYvw0Vp4qEo5VCdU0ggrXe2tcoQXuvkT-c39ZY68PHzdhSIGtOdSFLKfU7l8MjQZhRCQpykYksrqYNTMFx-_5wlwKbs_2mo24lwx5Ic746aYvOBiq/w438-h291/Wing%20on%20Wing%20%20Apparent%20160%20to%20180%20.JPG" width="438" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Some will say this cant be done, but here we are sailing along nicely. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjtYuZDTOoaL7jlAc7Wskiyycq4AgP6EZNEPB4_8JZy8_WETp965HqVIQK8NN19CXW47pHycuCW_SN6BzZg6yz1X7hmCc0rxlhpcjmkT91N0G6EA-wpUTx_hCaXod-erpi7zuBhjQr4009xmX9TVif_A4RVIOJHJNvuYQePvEDGyaE0pPFSiMxuG2/s5472/Not%20easy%20to%20photograph%20on%20board%20but%20here%20we%20are%20Wing%20on%20Wing%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="558" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjtYuZDTOoaL7jlAc7Wskiyycq4AgP6EZNEPB4_8JZy8_WETp965HqVIQK8NN19CXW47pHycuCW_SN6BzZg6yz1X7hmCc0rxlhpcjmkT91N0G6EA-wpUTx_hCaXod-erpi7zuBhjQr4009xmX9TVif_A4RVIOJHJNvuYQePvEDGyaE0pPFSiMxuG2/w371-h558/Not%20easy%20to%20photograph%20on%20board%20but%20here%20we%20are%20Wing%20on%20Wing%20.JPG" width="371" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Not easy to photograph on board but here we are Wing on Wing. Sail trim helps, its a learning curve but not a hard one. </span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>While
there does not appear to be a great deal of talk about being able to
carry a cruising spinnaker with the wind dead on the stern it can be
done. It’s a case of slowly moving into a position where the boom
can be moved out to the opposite side of where the spinnaker is set,
wing on wing but no pole is involved. We have done this on several
occasions, but the conditions do need to be right. If there isn’t
enough wind, or the swell is at the wrong angle the main will not sit
right. Any pitching or rolling movement can have the main sail
flapping around like a flag. As an example, in the right conditions
we have found that if we manoeuvre so the wind can be up to 160 on
the port quarter and the main is to starboard it will usually sit
nicely with the wind holding it in place. We use a boom brake as a
preventer to control jibes, it appears that the wind spills off the
main and into the spinnaker. The boat speeds up and quietens down and
the sails are not flapping and complaining. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">What
do you need to fly a cruising spinnaker?</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Many
boats already have the deck gear in place to fly an asymmetrical
spinnaker. If you don’t, setting up your boat from scratch is
usually a fairly simple project.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><u style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Here's
what you need to set up:</b></u></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Halyard</b></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">While
you can raise a spinnaker with a genoa/jib halyard, most cruising
boats have a furling headsail, and a halyard isn’t available. You
could use the spare headsail halyard if you have one. However a
dedicated spinnaker halyard is the best choice, the block will be
positioned above the head stay attachment and has better range of
movement. This will minimize chafe no matter which direction the sail
is pulling the halyard from. So if you don't already have one, I can
highly recommend the addition of a dedicated spinnaker halyard with a
swivelling block. We have 2 set up and find this is easier to use. If
we fly the sail from the port we use the port halyard, then the same
for the starboard, we use the starboard halyard. This saves having to
swing the halyard over the furled head sail. I guess this last
sentence does sound strange, but once you’re setting up to fly your
sail you will see what I mean.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Tack</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The
tack of your spinnaker must attach to the bow of the boat and can be
accomplished in a number of ways:</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Remember
that any fitting you use should be securely fastened under the deck
by a generous backing plate. It is quite easy to use hardware that's
part of the anchor roller assembly. If your bow roller frame that
holds your anchor shank in the roller is of sturdy construction, this
may be the go, but check the backing plate arrangement. If your bow
roller frame isn’t that heavy duty you may have to add a pad eye to
the bow. Be sure it doesn't cause problems with your furler, anchor,
pulpit, or other gear. When we first got going we were simply using a
line from a shackle at the bottom of the furler attachment bracket.
While we didn’t realize it at the time when the sail was in use the
stainless steel ring of the tack would rub on the pulpit and badly
scored the top rail.</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRhYr1DVDP6fMzO_n3j5DUgCniKNlwpOC11D1U9YzGnqafgOPm9RJM6nN7IhAAks-xliTo8mfrRXugAAiM90TD2vWJWP27o64HYAsZJfitsqVBYiK4EtpBu_QWDVJU6KDO4n0JTQVIegHHTYJbstRe7yQD2Bib3CPoLqmfxItyeRM8g1j1pF5_X2-/s5472/1.C.%20Close%20up%20of%20Tacker.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRhYr1DVDP6fMzO_n3j5DUgCniKNlwpOC11D1U9YzGnqafgOPm9RJM6nN7IhAAks-xliTo8mfrRXugAAiM90TD2vWJWP27o64HYAsZJfitsqVBYiK4EtpBu_QWDVJU6KDO4n0JTQVIegHHTYJbstRe7yQD2Bib3CPoLqmfxItyeRM8g1j1pF5_X2-/w466-h310/1.C.%20Close%20up%20of%20Tacker.JPG" width="466" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Close up of Tacker, this fits quickly around the furled headsail.Just remember to take it off before unfurling. From experience I can tell you it's not good when you forget. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">We
now use what is known as a Tacker, this is a unit that fits over the
furled head sail. The tack of the sail is attached to the Tacker by
quick release shackle, and the height above the deck can be adjusted
with the downhaul. The tacker fixed the problem of the sail tack ring
and shackle damaging the top rail of the pulpit, and we didn’t have
to add deck hardware.</span></div><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Another
bit of gear on the market is the removable bow sprit, a carbon fibre pole fixed to the
anchor roller assembly and a deck fitting. This puts the tack out forward of the bow and in most cases
away from the pulpit. There a few good advantages of using this set
up, like bigger sail area through to moving the sail further forward
and not back drafting the main. Like most boat hardware it won’t
fit all vessels as anchor lockers and winch placement can be in the
way.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Downhaul</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>A
downhaul gives you additional control over your sail. It's a great
option to get a bit more performance out of the sail. This
performance is not all speed related its sailing angles, with minor
adjustment better angles can be achieved. Attach the downhaul line to
the tack ring of the spinnaker, then run the line through a turning
block on the deck near the bow. Lead it aft to the cockpit, running
it through small blocks or fairleads every 2 metres or where needed.
Run the line through a rope clutch or to a cleat. Set the downhaul
line so the tack will be about 1.5 metres above the deck when the
sail is hoisted. This gives you added control to lift or lower the
sail off the deck. </span>
</span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitPqPTJXp4vcGTu5lnhkRe24YROU67uRx__zSHRS4sdbFfuOd0i7cxB-jMg6_n9XZPAqHTTTz-A52yS-ynqDCzmvBnIpJu2pNSgdgvccah-jKuFwjGPI0_hWYE16NXIuN5KDdEs_40jZN0A0lwvK6YtaQLdfejUS-q4IGAvIWS4kAAy8SYcdw-O4nU/s5472/1.%20Tacker%20set%20up%20downhaul%20roughly%20adjusted%20ready%20for%20hoist.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitPqPTJXp4vcGTu5lnhkRe24YROU67uRx__zSHRS4sdbFfuOd0i7cxB-jMg6_n9XZPAqHTTTz-A52yS-ynqDCzmvBnIpJu2pNSgdgvccah-jKuFwjGPI0_hWYE16NXIuN5KDdEs_40jZN0A0lwvK6YtaQLdfejUS-q4IGAvIWS4kAAy8SYcdw-O4nU/s320/1.%20Tacker%20set%20up%20downhaul%20roughly%20adjusted%20ready%20for%20hoist.JPG" width="213" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Our down haul is a simple arrangement, its simply a line connected to the tacker through a block attached deck fitting and we use the cleat at the anchor winch. Its a personal setup choice but we kept it simple and didn't run the line back to the cockpit. </span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">With
our set up we have a block at the bottom of the furler attachment
bracket, the downhaul line is then lead aft and cleated off on the
anchor winch. Adjustments are done fairly easily but one of us needs
to go forward to do it, and as we are not flying the sail in rough weather its been no problem. </span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The
other option is when cruising and shorthanded, play around and adjust
the downhaul and find a happy medium, and just deploy a fixed length
of line. We did this for more or less a year until we were really
comfortable with the sail, and then we decided to see what we could
do to improve performance.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Sheets
or Sheet</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>You
are likely to be told you need two sheets. With this arrangement the
recommended sheet length will be 2 x length of your boat.</span> <span>The
reasoning behind the two sheets is so you can gybe. Now while all
this sounds fantastic have a think about how much sheet (line) will
be in the cockpit at any given time. We tried it and didn’t like
the bundle of line in the cockpit and the hauling in the sheet during
the gybe. </span></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Being shorthanded we also ended up with all sorts of
tangles, right down to almost ripping off the forward port navigation light.
There was also friction burns with us, the sail, sheets and the
cockpit combing. Setting up took longer having to run the sheets
around the boat. KISS, (keep it simple sailor) we settled on one
sheet slightly less than the length of the boat. If we do need to
gybe, we can accomplish the manoeuvre quickly by dousing the sail in
the sock and then redeploying it. We found it to be a whole lot less
stressful and what’s five minutes out of a cruisers sailing day. We are not racing for cattle stations at the end of the day.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The
sheet(s) are led outside the lifelines. Also keep in mind when using
the two long sheets, the lazy sheet, the one that will be slack, must
be run in front of your head stay. Both sheets should be led aft
outside the lifelines to a turning block located near the stern of
your boat. From there, the sheet is led forward to a winch. We use
our head sail winch, we use a 13mm sheet and have found it works well
so we didn’t need to splash out on a couple of additional winches.</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9E2EJ5N2BaFA_h80nFCxQxiaFw6LO3lr0iKNpN2yoRjanq4GftRiSPHz2fepG5FlLfMs1aKIHZNBaKCarQ5iWKsCr5wJ6xRZ6NUjbKKvkdgOgB5MvNJDwCYk2rMaYyQLVU8HhOExNZ9IHZYPhTE7Z1JYbDb6r0JVgTpkxF51NIvphrh556byxCMYs/s6000/Turning%20Block%20sheet%20forward%20to%20winch.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9E2EJ5N2BaFA_h80nFCxQxiaFw6LO3lr0iKNpN2yoRjanq4GftRiSPHz2fepG5FlLfMs1aKIHZNBaKCarQ5iWKsCr5wJ6xRZ6NUjbKKvkdgOgB5MvNJDwCYk2rMaYyQLVU8HhOExNZ9IHZYPhTE7Z1JYbDb6r0JVgTpkxF51NIvphrh556byxCMYs/w445-h296/Turning%20Block%20sheet%20forward%20to%20winch.JPG" width="445" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Turning Block sheet forward to winch, just make sure you put the sheet to the sail on the right side of the life lines. This arrangement is simple and will be different on every boat.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Your
turning blocks must be attached to a sturdy deck fitting. A toe rail
is perfect. If you don't have a toe rail that will work for this
purpose, install a pad eye or other strong hardware like a length of
track, again with a generous sized backing plate(s).</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">You
can attach line to sail and hardware with a bowline, shackles, or a
combination of both. We use quick release shackles on the halyards
and tack to make setup and dousing easier, the sheet is attached with
a bowline.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><u><b>Here’s
what you need to make deployment and retrieval easier.</b></u></span></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Dousing
Sock</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Without
doubt the one piece of gear that makes this all possible for a
shorthanded vessel to fly a cruising spinnaker safely and easily.
It’s the dousing sock and the purpose of the sock is to contain the
spinnaker in a bag during the hoisting and lowering process for
safety and ease of handling. There are different brands and styles,
we use an ATN Sock, and it has a large moulded throat and so far has
given us great service. We have used other brands and found some
don’t work very well. If the hoisting line(s) are in the sock with
the sail, or there is more than one block at the head you are likely
to have problems. The top of the bag with the halyard to sail
attachment should have swivels to let any twist out of the halyard or
sail. There also needs to be enough length on the sock head fitting
to allow the bag to pull away from the sail for complete deployment.</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIa0f9IIuOfI_-sCtkit8iWrMiy3NYqvz5a5Ck2ImPmZWtB1Vmh73s8vRi36qmtRZC0GSgvYsaz3k2ZevZEcFz8um560UIAfj1vZqNxmTEV0UwsfXWDlb8seHErshJXBH3k-jcOQMTes0tF0mGTjFItgCAUnw5F308hf1QbMMcqpvZoXaYYOQ0nCyc/s6000/9.%20Dousing%20sock%20all%20the%20way%20up%20the%20sail%20is%20fully%20deployed.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIa0f9IIuOfI_-sCtkit8iWrMiy3NYqvz5a5Ck2ImPmZWtB1Vmh73s8vRi36qmtRZC0GSgvYsaz3k2ZevZEcFz8um560UIAfj1vZqNxmTEV0UwsfXWDlb8seHErshJXBH3k-jcOQMTes0tF0mGTjFItgCAUnw5F308hf1QbMMcqpvZoXaYYOQ0nCyc/w471-h314/9.%20Dousing%20sock%20all%20the%20way%20up%20the%20sail%20is%20fully%20deployed.JPG" width="471" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The dousing sock compressed and at the top of the sail, The blue line and white line is for control of the sock, remember to keep a little room at the top for the sock when hoisting. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><span><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Deck
Bag</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>A
deck bag to store the spinnaker removes the process of getting the
sail out of the locker and then man handling it forward around the
shrouds and onto to the front deck. With a good UV protected bag the
sail can sit ready for action and with little effort it can be up and
flying in minutes. The bag should be made to hold the sail snugly,
we have seen bags that are big enough to hold 2 spinnakers and are
too big to control easily. The bag will need to be securely attached
to something on the deck so it doesn’t blow away when empty, or
fall overboard when full. We have seen purpose made bag arrangements
where the sail is set up ready for deployment at a moment’s notice
with all lines attached. We don’t have the deck lay out to allow
this. However having said that about the deployment bag, we can have
our sail up in a couple of minutes. </span>
</span></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkXKpU1fw1QQxMvfwNkf2OJ1BnanMqWefafJdqZIRwQV1gqt71tcORSbIyacJQpBMuqaP15Y_S2qQiCLthbTw9EgvqxyWtMGm8jzNeatfKc0EKUjys5DzISJBxzJvU9CRQl5wOelD3EcjFXBZcxADG4otI4lRl95Z0Du6B2WC9q27QQmC6oTre5QN/s5472/2.%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20set%20up%20in%20the%20bag.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkXKpU1fw1QQxMvfwNkf2OJ1BnanMqWefafJdqZIRwQV1gqt71tcORSbIyacJQpBMuqaP15Y_S2qQiCLthbTw9EgvqxyWtMGm8jzNeatfKc0EKUjys5DzISJBxzJvU9CRQl5wOelD3EcjFXBZcxADG4otI4lRl95Z0Du6B2WC9q27QQmC6oTre5QN/s320/2.%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20set%20up%20in%20the%20bag.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"> Cruising Spinnaker set up in the bag, lines rolled and neatly placed in the bag, makes it easy to set it up for a quick deployment. We made this bag ourselves out of sunbrella fabric, the bags the sail comes in when purchased does not offer any UV protection.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><span><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><u><b>Lowering
and raising the Cruising Spinnaker</b></u></span></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Lowering
the Spinnaker</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Perhaps
the old saying about "men put up spinnakers but gods take them
down" has those new to cruising spinnakers unsettled about taking
their sail down. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">As
usual there are a couple of options on how to proceed.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>When
it’s time to take the sail down, turn away on to a dead run (wind
dead behind), if you have a boom brake (stopping accidental main
jibe) apply it and keep the mainsail out. Don’t ease the spinnaker
sheet. You want the main to blanket the spinnaker to make the sail collapse once the mainsail blankets whe wind. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Option
one: pop the tack, yes pull the trigger on the quick release shackle
and let the tack fly/hang free, the sail is effectively depowered and
will usually hang limp. Now pull the sock down over the sail. Then I
lower the halyard slowly piling the sail either on the deck or into
the bag, this is weather dependant. The reason I like this method is in case the breeze swirls around the main or you need to change tack quickly the sail is depowered and wont want to reset. </span></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Option
two: After the sail is blanketed, pull the sock down over the sail,
then when the sail becomes tight across the foot have the crew ease
the sheet. Then lower the halyard placing the sail in the bag or on
the deck.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">With
no sock it becomes a two person operation, after the sail is
blanketed by the main have one person ease the halyard while another
pulls the sail down by pulling on the leech. Keep in mind whoever is
pulling the sail down should be positioned on the leeward side of the
boat just forward of the boom. This position will ensure that the
spinnaker remains blanketed by the mainsail until it is completely
lowered to the deck.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Hoisting</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The deployment quickly in pictures, please read the text below it has some very important tips and lessons learnt for those new to this type sail. </span></b></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij43lUcGBAJNvpLJ9WRRWHwK4GtYmGUXtHT6K7wRbDxPhGOT0SlIN2zuPoj4Y0_UHmaEB3bebt448q2p7gtHVPX8x6fZxjqZ4Eoob_n4OrHuR96ZfGYy9uo3Vxz_2KbsHTdLtk7ueiPqz0UhpfNBaa2J9xLKgfjzR9RC6mPe8cKMYFIcjHNa8bLNau/s5472/1.%20Tacker%20set%20up%20downhaul%20roughly%20adjusted%20ready%20for%20hoist.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij43lUcGBAJNvpLJ9WRRWHwK4GtYmGUXtHT6K7wRbDxPhGOT0SlIN2zuPoj4Y0_UHmaEB3bebt448q2p7gtHVPX8x6fZxjqZ4Eoob_n4OrHuR96ZfGYy9uo3Vxz_2KbsHTdLtk7ueiPqz0UhpfNBaa2J9xLKgfjzR9RC6mPe8cKMYFIcjHNa8bLNau/s320/1.%20Tacker%20set%20up%20downhaul%20roughly%20adjusted%20ready%20for%20hoist.JPG" width="213" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">1. Tacker on the furled headsail, the down haul is connected and adjusted to what I think will be ok for the hoist, then I adjust it after its up. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeSV_R5tyJmeZ7-3gPFIofc1-C7uSL8ScMDQ96OZS74fuhd0DaH-uvdiHz3b0G7o5oCP8Rsl8bHCJkhLgn5W8NdkROqwmFUrTIhdM3cqJen88WpF8Mpz15WN9Ft18ShcwCQW1xf7SXXzkukH0CHLz7EaLakvuhuY4js2O439jMoc2SIj1SBc511G6/s5472/1.C.%20Close%20up%20of%20Tacker.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeSV_R5tyJmeZ7-3gPFIofc1-C7uSL8ScMDQ96OZS74fuhd0DaH-uvdiHz3b0G7o5oCP8Rsl8bHCJkhLgn5W8NdkROqwmFUrTIhdM3cqJen88WpF8Mpz15WN9Ft18ShcwCQW1xf7SXXzkukH0CHLz7EaLakvuhuY4js2O439jMoc2SIj1SBc511G6/w385-h256/1.C.%20Close%20up%20of%20Tacker.JPG" width="385" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">A close up of the Tacker quick release for the tack can be seen open. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><span>Get the spinnaker bag out on deck and place at the base of the mast. </span></span><p></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBi9wW3agCPAUFyfcYWPAPudcMSwEFt5BDmcJnm8M9Aa7RWFvXUjEJkQFhRfagjQ0D2Qdqi9ZtivuV8U8_weBn35KiHZyd-tSgkF7VdESBCm0viOiYCvJ8280NjimluhqgPlP1NCs0cSXXBdQkmk5KdD6dYqbVAcG4zDn6tpg9CZDevucHVQj7cSx/s5472/2.%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20set%20up%20in%20the%20bag.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBi9wW3agCPAUFyfcYWPAPudcMSwEFt5BDmcJnm8M9Aa7RWFvXUjEJkQFhRfagjQ0D2Qdqi9ZtivuV8U8_weBn35KiHZyd-tSgkF7VdESBCm0viOiYCvJ8280NjimluhqgPlP1NCs0cSXXBdQkmk5KdD6dYqbVAcG4zDn6tpg9CZDevucHVQj7cSx/w457-h304/2.%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20set%20up%20in%20the%20bag.JPG" width="457" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">2. Spinnaker bag placed at the base of the mast. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><span><br /></span></span><p></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAighCAbtJB9zzgEYBBq_dc4CXU1jSgGZS4kWuSLk00N9-4TO8nsLIC5nkzpixbj0eBTYPsFwkjEOCpkUeKcN5tBw4fJc7TfzZqjCvKbDnG-VZKvddTEiucvxm-ysE9NubCww2nIuTjfHBYRMwyvXQ5tPuBNh0He87UU2cgKSb_FSJ_b1Iyyync0em/s5472/3.%20Tie%20off%20the%20sock%20control%20line%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="590" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAighCAbtJB9zzgEYBBq_dc4CXU1jSgGZS4kWuSLk00N9-4TO8nsLIC5nkzpixbj0eBTYPsFwkjEOCpkUeKcN5tBw4fJc7TfzZqjCvKbDnG-VZKvddTEiucvxm-ysE9NubCww2nIuTjfHBYRMwyvXQ5tPuBNh0He87UU2cgKSb_FSJ_b1Iyyync0em/w393-h590/3.%20Tie%20off%20the%20sock%20control%20line%20.JPG" width="393" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">3. Attach the spinnaker sock control line to a hard point. This will stop the sail opening when it is hoisted, well that is, as its being hoisted, which can be an unpleasant experience, you can take my word for that, or give it a go yourself, but remember the control line will more than likely be flying on the breeze out of reach, oh yeah fun times.<br /> </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48rXJiTI3GaKEPUW16yh_8RFZjsdvGaQsdiNjjyJIDvjOjJqSWsgqXuoTjmFcqdddHvX6BSeDpnsPIbp-ejA25jV39bixUWGxR1aQDpe_nYFReKl_eYqPADnK2Ydu_cntUkX-_N1M3J2leLeIoCLfqUe-e5pNrorj4XFasYXpeFIFKyjZXb1MufHs/s5472/4.%20Clew%20%20The%20sheet%20to%20be%20run%20out%20side%20of%20the%20life%20lines.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48rXJiTI3GaKEPUW16yh_8RFZjsdvGaQsdiNjjyJIDvjOjJqSWsgqXuoTjmFcqdddHvX6BSeDpnsPIbp-ejA25jV39bixUWGxR1aQDpe_nYFReKl_eYqPADnK2Ydu_cntUkX-_N1M3J2leLeIoCLfqUe-e5pNrorj4XFasYXpeFIFKyjZXb1MufHs/w523-h348/4.%20Clew%20%20The%20sheet%20to%20be%20run%20out%20side%20of%20the%20life%20lines.JPG" width="523" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">4. Clew The sheet to be run outside of the life lines, leave the sheet attached in the bag<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdqR8pb5VFYjUia2Gftb9L87FzTI20Lo1HNxRiZU86y8Ox-L7JgLApZu5gH1DDfr9ReRACheAFk3d91zdjT2uZcLO6LxuJdMwys4CAinX6QrVfKBZeK0t0IgDBRpFdprrRkQbEyhhNfF0VYezLZVIHJccNpyPazJH2rQ4K0jMNKYy1JyulDSy1iVf/s5472/5.%20Dump%20the%20sail%20onto%20the%20deck%20attach%20the%20halyard%20to%20the%20head.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdqR8pb5VFYjUia2Gftb9L87FzTI20Lo1HNxRiZU86y8Ox-L7JgLApZu5gH1DDfr9ReRACheAFk3d91zdjT2uZcLO6LxuJdMwys4CAinX6QrVfKBZeK0t0IgDBRpFdprrRkQbEyhhNfF0VYezLZVIHJccNpyPazJH2rQ4K0jMNKYy1JyulDSy1iVf/w619-h412/5.%20Dump%20the%20sail%20onto%20the%20deck%20attach%20the%20halyard%20to%20the%20head.JPG" width="619" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">5. Dump the sail out of the bag on to the deck.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEger7vX0KSMq56Q6eEaegvNh4-dM2ZazmX9843icfQf973tGhkicFAdDriBthPByQIDriLZWM3s6j5WiU2TwooHUU15Lsym_E7RgH_Us-rmzodonTmAxbIGJsGy2Kp2EGGzfFOdxZi5F4JwGnzx1b9SfPQS-lVYJEVpGKnA7MHqo_Zjg-nQZDYZbgjd/s5472/6.%20Find%20the%20tack%20attach%20to%20tacker%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEger7vX0KSMq56Q6eEaegvNh4-dM2ZazmX9843icfQf973tGhkicFAdDriBthPByQIDriLZWM3s6j5WiU2TwooHUU15Lsym_E7RgH_Us-rmzodonTmAxbIGJsGy2Kp2EGGzfFOdxZi5F4JwGnzx1b9SfPQS-lVYJEVpGKnA7MHqo_Zjg-nQZDYZbgjd/w593-h395/6.%20Find%20the%20tack%20attach%20to%20tacker%20.JPG" width="593" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">6. Find the tack and attach to the Tacker</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlSIMSUAO4vGHOKpuv9wuTYJVo-WqGgfpmv59Gmdle7oWKt4s8ojGi6ptT7h-mr59kJh3DYo4TzhQdcWjnLLxjhS2l8ORGLtFlE5IjsmbA9tgruGcYj3ykXvttxScsrMJv_Gt6lAYdygbAP2gBhlslmVZMFaNMuhshUQAayODGnvJkDzaQDl_4Wuj/s5472/7.%20Tack%20attached%20to%20the%20Tacker%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlSIMSUAO4vGHOKpuv9wuTYJVo-WqGgfpmv59Gmdle7oWKt4s8ojGi6ptT7h-mr59kJh3DYo4TzhQdcWjnLLxjhS2l8ORGLtFlE5IjsmbA9tgruGcYj3ykXvttxScsrMJv_Gt6lAYdygbAP2gBhlslmVZMFaNMuhshUQAayODGnvJkDzaQDl_4Wuj/w603-h401/7.%20Tack%20attached%20to%20the%20Tacker%20.JPG" width="603" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Tack attached to the Tacker.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptXAxdfw_DxcVFpX92uG5EIicCr-KSgcLLYu0LzIo7S67-Qt60WYImnWxPmrQxLhA45OaBSau1lzV6tKGedkguAtxOrPKrGX59XIGEwJvfleAr5UoOMlYEPlwLTRFAnhABcxAbzEZT9ajJswKNW9SpCbwgljxkK7Md4ux3X2t1S_KFMvhbo7fbfdw/s5472/8.%20Hoist%20the%20sail%20in%20the%20sock.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="901" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptXAxdfw_DxcVFpX92uG5EIicCr-KSgcLLYu0LzIo7S67-Qt60WYImnWxPmrQxLhA45OaBSau1lzV6tKGedkguAtxOrPKrGX59XIGEwJvfleAr5UoOMlYEPlwLTRFAnhABcxAbzEZT9ajJswKNW9SpCbwgljxkK7Md4ux3X2t1S_KFMvhbo7fbfdw/w600-h901/8.%20Hoist%20the%20sail%20in%20the%20sock.JPG" width="600" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">7. Hoist away keep an eye aloft to make sure the head isn't flapping around or trying to get on the wrong side of the spreaders, just a general look out. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S9Hb-S_Uy6cQ92WWFheFdTO7PRVEzoggUMv7vo3g0QGjYMFC8yVipyMwf5jSRP6iTojrVtpswFrctv9J03IrxuLISdW4OKwgIJxFEgQ1jy9KoVwTvZqEzy7WiiGUFrB3Bqgeu3Fuz-Pszw2GV5Mwug6UxMtjuwDQ1al8mgEjiGxr3Jgttu6UDfte/s6000/9.%20Dousing%20sock%20all%20the%20way%20up%20the%20sail%20is%20fully%20deployed.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-S9Hb-S_Uy6cQ92WWFheFdTO7PRVEzoggUMv7vo3g0QGjYMFC8yVipyMwf5jSRP6iTojrVtpswFrctv9J03IrxuLISdW4OKwgIJxFEgQ1jy9KoVwTvZqEzy7WiiGUFrB3Bqgeu3Fuz-Pszw2GV5Mwug6UxMtjuwDQ1al8mgEjiGxr3Jgttu6UDfte/w574-h382/9.%20Dousing%20sock%20all%20the%20way%20up%20the%20sail%20is%20fully%20deployed.JPG" width="574" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The sail deployed and flying, the sock has retracted and is sitting nicely on the top of the sail. Don't forget to tie off the tail of the control line on to a cleat or even the life line, you don't want that out of reach when you want to take the sail down.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2qRSnyGDG9dY1v6G0xSUqFYuJhpwnBxRazxzovoGowN3bYBnJV-jnndmbnww_OQyu8pltaeSRrTDdOZF4ObLbVoYvIxJ-N8-cwGbVrtlfagbwdq281GJLEWcsdnpwMr8Z7bvUp2U33ZdJ-5eKw7lP57aMwi1x1VlbtAbl59LTso0BBClkGUKo1Eo/s6000/Main%20and%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20up.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="801" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2qRSnyGDG9dY1v6G0xSUqFYuJhpwnBxRazxzovoGowN3bYBnJV-jnndmbnww_OQyu8pltaeSRrTDdOZF4ObLbVoYvIxJ-N8-cwGbVrtlfagbwdq281GJLEWcsdnpwMr8Z7bvUp2U33ZdJ-5eKw7lP57aMwi1x1VlbtAbl59LTso0BBClkGUKo1Eo/w534-h801/Main%20and%20Cruising%20Spinnaker%20up.JPG" width="534" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Spinnaker up with the main and away we go.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">When hoisting the spinnaker, it is inside the sock and should not fill until you are ready for it to do so. That’s the theory, however as I have found that can be a trap for the uninitiated. So read on </span><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: left;">The next thing I do before anything else is I the take the sock control line out of the bag and attach it to a deck fitting or cleat, something close to the mast. I run the sheet back to the cockpit outside of the life lines into the turning block back to the winch, then attach the tack allowing for it to fly about 1.5 metres above the deck. I then attach the halyard and hoist the sock encased spinnaker as far up as it will go. Now before going any further I have a good look up along the length of the sock. Keeping in mind most socks are manufactured in such a way there are seams joining the fabric running the full length of the sock. What I am looking for is the seams to be straight and not twisted around the sail. If it is twisted this is straightened out now, before trying to deploy the sock. So what’s the problem with this twisted sock? If the sock is twisted around the sail, the deployment will not be very fluid and in most cases the sail will bunch up in the sock. The flow on effect is friction as the sock and control lines untwist around the sail, we have seen enough friction created to burn holes in either the sock or in some</span><span style="text-align: left;"> cases the sail.</span></span></div><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Once
satisfied the sock is sitting nicely over the sail and the control
lines are free of twists I raise the sock to the top by pulling the
sock control line. Usually there isn’t much work needed to get the
sock to the top, once the wind starts to fill the lower part of the
sail the mouth of the sock slides to the top quickly. Just try and
keep the tension on the line to stop it bunching in the sock, this
can cause minor problem when dousing later on.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Why
did I make a point of attaching the control line to something on
deck? Early in our spinnaker deployment learning curve the sail in
the sock was hauled three quarters of the way up. The wind angle was
such that the sail started to deploy as the wind filled the bottom
part of the sail forcing the sock mouth up the sail. So as you can
imagine it wasn’t a good look the half hoisted sail was filling.
The halyard wanted to lift me off the deck and the spinnaker sock
control line was well out of reach up the now half hoisted but fully
filled sail. As it turned out the best thing I did was to let go of
the halyard, I had no choice really, and it was a case of drop it or
be lifted up the mast. The sail fell into the water and I was able to
drag it back on board starting from the tack. Lesson complete. Lesson
learnt, tie off the sock control line so the sail could not deploy
before it is fully hoisted and halyard cleated off. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Another
method to stop this type of thing happening is you could turn away
onto a dead run blanketing the sail with the main as you would if
lowering. Hoist the sail in the sock and after raising the sock
slowly head up to your desired course and pull in the sheet until the
sail sets.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><b>Cruising
Spinnaker Trim</b></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">There
are two basic adjustments to be made, the first is the height of the
tack above the deck, and the second is the amount of sheet you should
pull in or let out for any given point of sail.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>As
a general rule, on a close reach with the wind at about 60 degrees
the tack should be pulled down tight so the luff of the sail is
straight as possible, we pull our tacker down to just rest on top of
the furler drum. On a broad reach 120-155 degrees, the tack should be
eased off considerably, with our 13 metre boat we usually find 1.2 –
1.5 metres is about right. On this point of sail you should have the
tack as high as possible, however it should not be so high that the
sail starts to oscillate. This can make the sail and the flow on
effect the boat unstable. On a beam reach, the tack height should be
adjusted somewhere between the high and the low positions. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">A
cruising spinnaker should be trimmed just enough to stop the luff
from curling. Adjust the tack height so the middle of the luff curls
first when you head the boat up into the wind. If the upper part of
the luff curls first, the tack is too high and must be lowered. On
the other hand, if the lower part of the luff starts to curl first,
the tack is too low, while this sounds technical once the sail is up and your going along you will easily see what I am saying. </span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbG4R1mgI4q7OPlvmnntuUoXcRYdGsI1irxLA2_h92tV-kf068AMOybJh0ZGTY3taYqcwWnywEsnWNmxoaGmlMVQfujR0IauE3vSgnTjeLaqMLo67FRqu31ePgPjUaCSaIJ9lkZ_AAP2WXPWjP9oWf9Y8-ACLQVnWUxLMQOnWJHrXTdXAvEW5IbQX/s6000/Tacker%20in%20use%20around%20furled%20headsail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="445" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbG4R1mgI4q7OPlvmnntuUoXcRYdGsI1irxLA2_h92tV-kf068AMOybJh0ZGTY3taYqcwWnywEsnWNmxoaGmlMVQfujR0IauE3vSgnTjeLaqMLo67FRqu31ePgPjUaCSaIJ9lkZ_AAP2WXPWjP9oWf9Y8-ACLQVnWUxLMQOnWJHrXTdXAvEW5IbQX/w296-h445/Tacker%20in%20use%20around%20furled%20headsail.JPG" width="296" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The sail up and as you can see the down haul is around the furler drum, this hasn't caused any problems. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span><b>Things
we learnt</b></span><span>:</span></span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">For
downwind sailing in light wind with a cruising asymmetric spinnaker
start by sailing on a beam reach to build up speed. As the boat speed
comes up, the apparent wind moves forward, and you can steer deeper.
If the boat slows down or the wind subsides, steer a little higher
for more power to reclaim boat speed. If you keep your speed up, the
apparent wind will stay forward enough that the spinnaker isn't
blanketed by the mainsail, even if you are sailing as low as 155
degrees off the wind.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">If
there are storm clouds on the horizon or closer keep a very good
weather eye on them. Be ready to drop the sail with increasing wind
strength.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Stay
away from areas that will give you fluky or catabolic winds. We would
sail beside the sand hills of the islands in Moreton Bay, and got
bullets from time to time. This is not a good look with coffee cups
flying around the cockpit when the wind whips from 8Kn. to 18Kn. in
the blink of an eye. The same thing happened one time when we were sailing up the coast of Lombok. Early in the day was fantastic but as we approached the north coast the winds coming over the mountains created some nasty wind bursts.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">For
ghosting along on days where the wind is below 10 Kn. we sometimes
run without the main up when we are running square or near to it. We
have had several day sails where we have covered distances that
motoring would have covered in the same time. However you need to
keep a good eye on the true wind speed and make the call when to pull
the sock down and deploy the main should it be necessary. The main (no pun intended) reason to put up the main is to make it easier to take down the spinnaker with the increase in wind strength. </span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>We
don’t fly the cruising spinnaker at night, we have done in the past
and haven’t been caught but it was close. One evening after pulling
the sail down, a squall hit us and we were totally un-aware there was
even a squall headed our way. If it had hit just a couple of minutes
earlier we could have been in all sorts of trouble. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>The
tack trim is fairly easy to guestimate once you have set the sail
several times. You will have a reasonable idea of your wind direction
when you are setting up so adjust it before deployment and fine tune
later if you need too. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Leave
the sheet attached to the sail, we store the sheet in the bag on the
top of the pack. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Externally
run spinnaker halyards should have the deck end tied through a cleat,
should it be dropped it won’t take off up through the block </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>Look
after your sail, dry it out if it becomes wet. We hang ours in the
sock in the sun, and it doesn’t take long to dry. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><span>When
the sock has been pulled to the top tie off the control lines, it’s
important to tie off the line so it’s not flying in the breeze out
of reach when needed. However we found it was a good idea to tie the
line too two points a couple of metres apart on deck so the lines
will be apart. It doesn’t really matter what you tie them to but
try and get them separated. We found if we just tied off to one point
the lines would wrap together very tightly, making it difficult to
separate quickly when it was time to douse the sail. </span>
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">The
luff length is the important measurement when choosing the right size
Asymmetrical Spinnaker. This is the info the sail maker who made our
sail gave us. For a reasonably accurate measurement, raise a tape
measure up on the spinnaker halyard until it’s at the full hoist
position and measure to where you would like the tack of the
spinnaker to be. The luff length of the spinnaker should be the
measurement taken earlier x 1.03 (giving or taking 300mm either way).
For example, if your measurement is 16.00 Mtrs then the luff should
be 16.00 x 1.03 = 16.42 +/- 0.30 or between 16.12 and 16.72. When
ordering a sock you don’t require the full length 1 - 1.5 metres
short of the Luff length is ok.</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
<br />
</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSIUD19dbSAvPB1PIA5wpF_cs4rJYNt8ClCDUD3p-gMtZCG1T_kDbIf-DIXcI-eqSNH7X047cMA_Uc1X5wh-mWlNjdK8MqRb3pt-sja-QO1jXJzAVopsc_mwHIvSe7lj8ixnfvFHDEaTH326GFRwRNcYB_BJXqQ1dRNb_86tZeTgx_AA5D1NZBqL5B/s6000/At%20anchor%20in%20time%20to%20meet%20the%20locals.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSIUD19dbSAvPB1PIA5wpF_cs4rJYNt8ClCDUD3p-gMtZCG1T_kDbIf-DIXcI-eqSNH7X047cMA_Uc1X5wh-mWlNjdK8MqRb3pt-sja-QO1jXJzAVopsc_mwHIvSe7lj8ixnfvFHDEaTH326GFRwRNcYB_BJXqQ1dRNb_86tZeTgx_AA5D1NZBqL5B/w453-h301/At%20anchor%20in%20time%20to%20meet%20the%20locals.JPG" width="453" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At anchor in time to meet the locals.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB3AlDclKZONzEu6lz0Zb9XBotCXHznvHv6YuoMAGL4gLxUJTSH1bcxae-Dmt5ouzY2tO9Cev7XXxjHZUXOdpN2cbfAm06j0vMw3tsKlD9cn_Ejmo94pdbBHBWXtkcpQZoW-vS4hDLKLC8C73FuplFD-D98b8zR-xwYzDvzQxBJBxLJLoCfzX1K1VA/s6000/Enjoying%20sundowners%20at%20anchor%20after%20a%20days%20sail.%20.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB3AlDclKZONzEu6lz0Zb9XBotCXHznvHv6YuoMAGL4gLxUJTSH1bcxae-Dmt5ouzY2tO9Cev7XXxjHZUXOdpN2cbfAm06j0vMw3tsKlD9cn_Ejmo94pdbBHBWXtkcpQZoW-vS4hDLKLC8C73FuplFD-D98b8zR-xwYzDvzQxBJBxLJLoCfzX1K1VA/w542-h361/Enjoying%20sundowners%20at%20anchor%20after%20a%20days%20sail.%20.JPG" width="542" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view as we enjoy our sundowners after a days sail. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</span><p></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;">
</p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</span></p>
<p style="line-height: 108%; margin-bottom: 0.28cm;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
<br />
</span></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><br /></div>Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-426840021383175645.post-75404544466643407812023-01-17T12:48:00.087+10:002023-01-18T11:41:29.681+10:00OpenCPN creating and trouble shooting an interactive cruising guideRecently I was contacted by a cruiser having problems getting the waypoint link that opens an interactive cruising guide to work. So I thought it would be a good idea to show how to firstly make your own interactive cruising guide. Then also give a guide to trouble shooting if it doesn't work.<div><br /></div><div>So what is an interactive cruising guide when using OpenCPN. In this instance an interactive cruising guide is not actually embedded in and operated with the OpenCPN program. The way it works is a PDF file (or website) can be opened using a link saved in a user created waypoint. The PDF file containing the Cruising Guide can be any thing from an electronic book to a memory jogger one page hand drawn mud map scanned into a PDF file. </div><div><br /></div><div>To start you need the guide you want to reference, then have an understanding on how you want your guide to be opened. As an example do you want the guide to open at the beginning or at a specific page. Its a bit of time waster to open a hundred page guide at the cover then search for the page, its much quicker to open it at the page giving specific information to the area your in. It can be done either way and I have included the instructions for both.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you are wanting to open your guide at a specific page you will need to check the way the pages are numbered. If there is an index and then a blurb about the guide at the beginning of the book this will more than likely mean the number written on the information page will not correspond with the page numbering the PDF reader will apply. Let me explain, in a lot of the guides I have seen, the first couple of pages are numbered in Roman numerals, or called index 1 and up or even preface. Then the page numbering will start. That is unless of course the page numbers start at one and continue matching the PDF reader numbering, however from my experience this doesn't happen very often, (yes it can but not often). The quick way to check this out is to open the file look at the index and indeed scroll through several pages checking the way the book pages are numbered. It really is no problem as long as you realize this and make allowances when applying the page number to the link to open the guide. In the PDF reader the first page is 1 even if it is the cover. </div><div><br /></div><div>For this example of setting up the interactive guide I have down loaded a two page zoning map for the Swain Reefs in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. I will show how to make a link to a web site and then make two links to the PDF file stored on the local computers hard drive. The first link will open the file at the first page and the second at a page number and in this case its page 2. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFD-KcpPK5uK0G5pFKhnkZU918myc1AwfPbHpvwd_4Xib9aG7wWNlT450HdO3qvv0e8PV9kl8agr6u8lpk_vUGqNfX6Nps0WofclwbPZxN0NWXeU5fRK6n6DrlEe-t6wIunKN4YMGkuZQ2KqDYe72I093N4N02tkdRTKh8qLRdSbCes8VvLF_NDz7k/s1366/south%20swains%20waypoints.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="723" data-original-width="1366" height="459" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFD-KcpPK5uK0G5pFKhnkZU918myc1AwfPbHpvwd_4Xib9aG7wWNlT450HdO3qvv0e8PV9kl8agr6u8lpk_vUGqNfX6Nps0WofclwbPZxN0NWXeU5fRK6n6DrlEe-t6wIunKN4YMGkuZQ2KqDYe72I093N4N02tkdRTKh8qLRdSbCes8VvLF_NDz7k/w871-h459/south%20swains%20waypoints.jpg" width="871" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">User created waypoints in the Swain Reef area. <br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-zbIymmtqtb4gzVicN_gCtScUxCTdnlcpn8hBEwMXmVDfYtXuW8PGqCTEizHzDKh06i-DSPclrH8v6XwAxE9zAL772P5xn4Yu-hKKerSoCnm48Inn2q3KKzg1seJd82FB3ThOwZNZC3PwfQrX1lqwjX6GIzSQLXrCqByECS-hHqs49wBd8PqbfRij/s683/1%20PROPERTIES.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="457" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-zbIymmtqtb4gzVicN_gCtScUxCTdnlcpn8hBEwMXmVDfYtXuW8PGqCTEizHzDKh06i-DSPclrH8v6XwAxE9zAL772P5xn4Yu-hKKerSoCnm48Inn2q3KKzg1seJd82FB3ThOwZNZC3PwfQrX1lqwjX6GIzSQLXrCqByECS-hHqs49wBd8PqbfRij/w322-h480/1%20PROPERTIES.jpg" width="322" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Open the waypoint you want to add the link to, this can be done by double clicking the waypoint for it to open as it is here or secondly right click and select properties either way this box will open as it is here. To start the process right click in the Links box and click on the Add New popup </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODfQsUyF0ZItLsvVfrO9i9iQSSD0ZUhkgYUhyEjyBQ0syu03UXgDOWLOl6ADFtH3o1d-MZNNCjTy0zUed6zqmeFivnkyDsYK94ZfG_q13MWgMuZ0SjDUBDS1ZeoO8hm1Y-DC21OusQwB_y0nc2lKhiNz--idobetr-w1HSMY92Vzh7sjLRh2oM4bQ/s657/2%20Web%20Link%20zonning%20map.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="520" height="437" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODfQsUyF0ZItLsvVfrO9i9iQSSD0ZUhkgYUhyEjyBQ0syu03UXgDOWLOl6ADFtH3o1d-MZNNCjTy0zUed6zqmeFivnkyDsYK94ZfG_q13MWgMuZ0SjDUBDS1ZeoO8hm1Y-DC21OusQwB_y0nc2lKhiNz--idobetr-w1HSMY92Vzh7sjLRh2oM4bQ/w345-h437/2%20Web%20Link%20zonning%20map.jpg" width="345" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the link description box give the link a name. In this example I am making a web link so I just copied then pasted the web address in the URL box click OK and we are done.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAw0Uo-GQkkxVZKwbhGRndWv76qeag_TdosXZ-C9b4PZ0SAJINCo_WYhpd7H8OZm8L5TdC_7VwaURGCFM-LAnSajzLrlG1jO5_DURqo4AnDP_rXib6238Nvy3LKxI4HFv9PD6SGLa6hwEjJX2Out-41jRjuFQNK7QtYth0s8lwTo8V8WcOCqzumDC/s672/3%20zoning%20map%20web%20created.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="441" height="525" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAw0Uo-GQkkxVZKwbhGRndWv76qeag_TdosXZ-C9b4PZ0SAJINCo_WYhpd7H8OZm8L5TdC_7VwaURGCFM-LAnSajzLrlG1jO5_DURqo4AnDP_rXib6238Nvy3LKxI4HFv9PD6SGLa6hwEjJX2Out-41jRjuFQNK7QtYth0s8lwTo8V8WcOCqzumDC/w345-h525/3%20zoning%20map%20web%20created.jpg" width="345" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Link has been created and is ready to go, test it out. By clicking on the link your default web browser should open and go to the web site. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EuueDcAEVPOiSGnlQSrmqlkPm9XHQqF8KlhztyQSAXnDT7Xo9Zuy8XrYUv9w1Vebz6A4rAz3JsMJjVVVpqGXJGNy5G1eowh7oxGFWN_bqQCU_XDNPEhnoXJm1aL0j4b1hVxjryKmdPC71PyuzXw4gZ7ye442ux3B_ARfCgxIVP20bOjAV4Uw7jLX/s1366/open%20web%20address.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1366" height="327" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EuueDcAEVPOiSGnlQSrmqlkPm9XHQqF8KlhztyQSAXnDT7Xo9Zuy8XrYUv9w1Vebz6A4rAz3JsMJjVVVpqGXJGNy5G1eowh7oxGFWN_bqQCU_XDNPEhnoXJm1aL0j4b1hVxjryKmdPC71PyuzXw4gZ7ye442ux3B_ARfCgxIVP20bOjAV4Uw7jLX/w621-h327/open%20web%20address.jpg" width="621" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The web browser was opened and the zoning document is displayed. Web link is working, when coastal cruising we use this waypoint link function to open web pages to view the local bar cameras to check how its looking before crossing. It removes the need to search the web or keep a note book with web addresses, we do make the links when we passage plan, makes navigation on board run smoother. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Next setting up a link to open a local file stored on the computer</b></div><div>The assumption is the file is now residing on the computers hard drive, in this example its in the root directory on the C:\ drive</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqAy4uo-V7WuW4R0THrfIRtwXyN4CO-kCBvl3fK-U9sgGCcLmkINoGsgFrnSryYwD0l46ZpGSvNZ7Nw8MTojigSRSOkU22IzgR95Dqxewu4moE_JyIeqdKNMWN9JLjlTvuXTwueZaGOhrnF6v_VGwzF007QRjvQhnWTDDgcbz9Y1ug_UjUon1QVW81/s689/create%20local.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="468" height="519" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqAy4uo-V7WuW4R0THrfIRtwXyN4CO-kCBvl3fK-U9sgGCcLmkINoGsgFrnSryYwD0l46ZpGSvNZ7Nw8MTojigSRSOkU22IzgR95Dqxewu4moE_JyIeqdKNMWN9JLjlTvuXTwueZaGOhrnF6v_VGwzF007QRjvQhnWTDDgcbz9Y1ug_UjUon1QVW81/w352-h519/create%20local.jpg" width="352" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To start open waypoint properties and create the link name, however don't paste in the URL click on the local file button. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilKOd2sdvknnAEUxaREbAwUeT2EOIem3RpNSCOX7kwTkkIXO4EPFUtAjrxX7euMC7igOnJVr7EtTi2djscfD-B99wNZ1PtGA6SbwqZBUeXYvkxFFlC3goMJfCeinOxX7Fe01oB2YP8ZOPMGS9GiEX4B5EuiK7_LToKbtjhvVAt3Deu8vqo2XMBE9iO/s680/4%20creating%20local%20link.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="446" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilKOd2sdvknnAEUxaREbAwUeT2EOIem3RpNSCOX7kwTkkIXO4EPFUtAjrxX7euMC7igOnJVr7EtTi2djscfD-B99wNZ1PtGA6SbwqZBUeXYvkxFFlC3goMJfCeinOxX7Fe01oB2YP8ZOPMGS9GiEX4B5EuiK7_LToKbtjhvVAt3Deu8vqo2XMBE9iO/w336-h512/4%20creating%20local%20link.jpg" width="336" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Browse for and select the file and the link to that file will be made by the program, hit OK and the link should be ready to test.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />The link created using this function <span style="color: #351c75;">file:///C:/Zone%20Map-16-Swain%20Reefs.pdf </span> this will open the file stored on the C:\ drive<div><br /></div><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzLwZXTwWeF3LQcc_CeKsOflg5XV7bXnE3oQ-6Wj97Q6sPaqYpOerVLaWlxX3TYVnRLCIB6vGDUthaIYSiFNvTyPMC79-8L_B4wvpk6jBtT5W_IBBT2a9jl-oe0tQ9WV9_Z-tfqfF1GVlSXMEDl2TfAfVqkPq0qMJ5mBxHC-tn3SrCBb_Gt1H9XPA/s1169/8%20showing%20zoning%20file.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="1169" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzLwZXTwWeF3LQcc_CeKsOflg5XV7bXnE3oQ-6Wj97Q6sPaqYpOerVLaWlxX3TYVnRLCIB6vGDUthaIYSiFNvTyPMC79-8L_B4wvpk6jBtT5W_IBBT2a9jl-oe0tQ9WV9_Z-tfqfF1GVlSXMEDl2TfAfVqkPq0qMJ5mBxHC-tn3SrCBb_Gt1H9XPA/w866-h274/8%20showing%20zoning%20file.jpg" width="866" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The zoning map stored on the local C:\ drive</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iMxH3FN-jDv5mGWyqkCdw3g17du-yHVZINCtW7mSh3LyGYa_nnvZcZ0w4R_BU9IbdxII4hzR0hxOEUR0YPwvCGUQK2nH9htujRczei43dG5fffLj7H8BQaGd50c4-2nETtjZvj35pVxF6-enjNjgNXVfhJS0Mj_cJwRBWZ6_a6kxAx-rm2_D6Lz_/s1366/8A%20zoning%20local%20file%20page%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1366" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iMxH3FN-jDv5mGWyqkCdw3g17du-yHVZINCtW7mSh3LyGYa_nnvZcZ0w4R_BU9IbdxII4hzR0hxOEUR0YPwvCGUQK2nH9htujRczei43dG5fffLj7H8BQaGd50c4-2nETtjZvj35pVxF6-enjNjgNXVfhJS0Mj_cJwRBWZ6_a6kxAx-rm2_D6Lz_/w849-h450/8A%20zoning%20local%20file%20page%201.jpg" width="849" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local file opened at the first page of the document using the link created. As you can see in the page tool bar the page open is 1 / 2 or one of two. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div><b>Creating a link to open the PDF file at a specific page</b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhStMOnuI-dABNi8JjLgE9erSDMSmKdWSHS4uVS6w4AcKxp8zN7liiBS--Iknm5OoH9o4geQsxHbwdgdJ-U8O-yphLh3tYqF3htQJbADmXen3MF5Oye7HA3XVyv8XhU2SAF4pPntw9n6hjMMKeMLdEdw-EbEBUKkVnc6Ptm6X6-wMyy8rT0QiBjCht1/s666/created%20local%20p2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="454" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhStMOnuI-dABNi8JjLgE9erSDMSmKdWSHS4uVS6w4AcKxp8zN7liiBS--Iknm5OoH9o4geQsxHbwdgdJ-U8O-yphLh3tYqF3htQJbADmXen3MF5Oye7HA3XVyv8XhU2SAF4pPntw9n6hjMMKeMLdEdw-EbEBUKkVnc6Ptm6X6-wMyy8rT0QiBjCht1/w347-h510/created%20local%20p2.jpg" width="347" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting up to open the file at the page you choose is reasonably easy. In this example the PDF file is opened at page 2 but it could be any page in the document. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />In this example the Link has the addition of #page=2 to open the document at page 2. If you want to open at page 55 then add #page=55 to the end of the link. An example of the link to open the PDF file stored on the computers C:\ drive. <b>file:///C:/Zone%20Map-16-Swain%20Reefs.pdf#page=2<br /></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZgvfv4lzNBFk_0ziy0N4dbceuUp2_wMxXUEJunPdEEfUVw95gq7JGKvZJ-2Np-cEkO11Lh_4RmfTEwBqS_JEdEv4T1uGFNL3sIXFto68miCp-FSO5-zkpNjeRDgvKCZg5pPOzXGV_DjeAhAxBnhvpJpZqvFWtpwnt3KzvKEfjxsTgEWLJGNPwEX7/s1366/9%20Open%20at%20local%20zoning%20map.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1366" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZgvfv4lzNBFk_0ziy0N4dbceuUp2_wMxXUEJunPdEEfUVw95gq7JGKvZJ-2Np-cEkO11Lh_4RmfTEwBqS_JEdEv4T1uGFNL3sIXFto68miCp-FSO5-zkpNjeRDgvKCZg5pPOzXGV_DjeAhAxBnhvpJpZqvFWtpwnt3KzvKEfjxsTgEWLJGNPwEX7/w864-h451/9%20Open%20at%20local%20zoning%20map.jpg" width="864" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local document open at Page=2, 2 / 2 as displayed on the tool bar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><b>Trouble shooting the Link Function is working </b></div><div><br />Here is a quick guide to check the function of your setup if your having trouble opening the cruising guide at the right page or even opening the guide at all.<br />
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Check the version of PDF file viewer is up to date and the file associations are working. Find the file in the C:\ root directory and double click to make it open. If the file opens up and is readable that’s a good sign, now move to the next step.<div><br /></div><div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aXodG6D1T9Q/XSk0onjWZsI/AAAAAAAAG_E/GmePoUq7Eg0TkqeBOwLERSzf8IB9P9EIwCLcBGAs/s1600/link%2Bselect.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="479" height="515" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aXodG6D1T9Q/XSk0onjWZsI/AAAAAAAAG_E/GmePoUq7Eg0TkqeBOwLERSzf8IB9P9EIwCLcBGAs/w400-h515/link%2Bselect.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right click on the link and select edit </td></tr>
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Fire up OpenCPN and find a waypoint you know contains a link to an interactive cruising guide.<br />
Check the link is functional in the first place. Open the waypoint and look for the link; in this case it’s the Sail Malaysia Cruising Guide. Right click on the link and hit the edit button.<br />
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NoYAF6kDfl0/XSk1wdTFflI/AAAAAAAAG_Q/KuotdTGS3L0YFrEYuzH-ghBX5WzUtd1JACLcBGAs/s1600/highlite%2Blink.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="466" height="650" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NoYAF6kDfl0/XSk1wdTFflI/AAAAAAAAG_Q/KuotdTGS3L0YFrEYuzH-ghBX5WzUtd1JACLcBGAs/w471-h650/highlite%2Blink.JPG" width="471" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High light and copy the complete link as seen here in the URL window</td></tr>
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Copy the link to the end in my case (screen shot) talking about the crocodiles near Batu Pahat the link is file:/C:\Sail Malaysia Pilot April 4th 2019.pdf#page=26 <br />
<br /><br />Open your default internet browser and past the link copied earlier into the address bar then hit return. The cruising guide should open and if a specific page is selected it should open at the required page.</div><div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dlp4USBeb2I/XSkvaaOkvGI/AAAAAAAAG-w/3QfYco6Svq0jdrUEN1cMAh0B-E4gad0sQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Batu%2BPahat%2Bopen.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="1124" height="522" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dlp4USBeb2I/XSkvaaOkvGI/AAAAAAAAG-w/3QfYco6Svq0jdrUEN1cMAh0B-E4gad0sQCEwYBhgL/w853-h522/Batu%2BPahat%2Bopen.JPG" width="853" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">As can be seen in the address bar the address is the link copied earlier, the guide is opened at page 26 </span></td></tr>
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<br />As above, the best outcome is the cruising guide opens at the correct page. </div><div><br /><br />
Below is a simulation to show an error. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lt7_B68Ga6k/XSkvaCRWpVI/AAAAAAAAG-c/KwPCb9JMlpAdssYVu3lNs6XqQQz3jHQ_QCEwYBhgL/s1600/File%2Bmissing.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="842" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lt7_B68Ga6k/XSkvaCRWpVI/AAAAAAAAG-c/KwPCb9JMlpAdssYVu3lNs6XqQQz3jHQ_QCEwYBhgL/w533-h424/File%2Bmissing.JPG" width="533" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Error screen, in this case it is totally correct, I had moved the file to get this screen shot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Error box : In the example the Cruising guide was not in the C:\ drive, I had removed it to give the error. If you are getting this error and you see the file is in the directory. </div><div><br /></div></div><div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AcO8HbjaEig/XSkwO6sPVWI/AAAAAAAAG-4/0oqn3ncKly8k3-dw3j6Lh5Rnsx2j4vYaQCLcBGAs/s1600/sail%2Bmalaysia.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="83" data-original-width="744" height="70" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AcO8HbjaEig/XSkwO6sPVWI/AAAAAAAAG-4/0oqn3ncKly8k3-dw3j6Lh5Rnsx2j4vYaQCLcBGAs/s640/sail%2Bmalaysia.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A screen grab of the file in the C:\ drive root directory, check the link and the file name are the same one more time</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br /></div><div><div><b>Still not working?</b></div><div>What else, if you still cannot get the guide open, create a new test waypoint some where on the chart, then using the guide at the beginning of this post to create a link to a local file, for the first test don't use the select a page function. If this works, now edit the link and add the page selection to the link. Then test to see if this opens the cruising guide. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>
If the file name is spelt correctly and you have made a new link; the next step, is to make sure your browser is up to date, check for updates and bring it up to date. If you still don’t have any joy try another browser, try Internet Explorer, Microsoft Edge, Firefox. On an apple product you will have to make the call I am not up to speed on what is available for that matter I am not sure how a link will work to open a file.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cniKkEClt6k/XSkvaWbIx1I/AAAAAAAAG-s/5dUhQHasJ1Y4XQMBiTYcnQJ-3GVlqEW3gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Options.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="957" height="418" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cniKkEClt6k/XSkvaWbIx1I/AAAAAAAAG-s/5dUhQHasJ1Y4XQMBiTYcnQJ-3GVlqEW3gCEwYBhgL/s640/Options.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Firefox options page as can be seen the PDF handling is set to preview files</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you’re using Firefox you need to check in the options tab how files are handled, In this example preview files (eg read) is set to open PDF files. Without this selected the files will not open.<br />
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Hope this helps if you have been having problems. </div>
</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Sailing adventures with SV Matilda.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01522549068794298138noreply@blogger.com0