Stop 7: Maumere, Flores Island. August 17 - 24 2016

Maumere was our first place of complete rest. We stopped here for a total of 8 days, which by this stage of rally we felt tired and wanted to slow down a bit so up went the shade cover and we settled down to a more familiar style of exploring at own pace. It gave us time to do a few boat jobs and catch up on correspondence.

Our journey took us 10 hours from Lowoleba, motoring most of the way. We dropped anchor at 08 38.10S & 122 18.40E in about 16 meters of water right out the front of the Seaworld Resort/Hotel. Good holding here, but when we hauled anchor we had a massive piece of coral on it!

This was another anchorage that was not accurate on either Open CPN and Navionics, both showing 0.5metres outside the anchorage? We paced outside the anchorage for about 40 minutes wondering what to do, yet we could see the other fleet in the anchorage. In the end we decided to just turn off the chart plotter and head in watching the depth sounder. It never went off and we had plenty of water. Quite a few floating balls (fish traps underneath) were here at the time of our visit, but very easily seen in day light.

We had planned on stopping at TG Wodong but due to arriving around 1420 we decided we would easily make it to Maumere so we continued on saving yet another moving day the next day. Upon arrival we had a visit from Customs officials again. Not sure why, but we didn't want to make a fuss so we gave them our official documents and all was well. They certainly enjoy a photo opportunity.

Maumere is a great place and most things are found here. The hospital is good, markets are huge with very good produce and goodies, a Roxie supermarket is here and depending on what you want to go see,  its all here. The only downside to anchoring out the front of the Seaworld Resort Hotel was that you can not walk into town, you need transport.

We enjoyed the welcoming dinner, filled our tanks with diesel - solar, had laundry done, went to the markets a few times, topped up on data and our big trip here was a visit to the 3 coloured lakes in the crater of the Kelimutu volcano. Something else we enjoyed here was the little walk out to the main road. We did this quite a few times as the locals were lovely to be with. There was loads of wild life to see and the kids like all the kids, love a photo!

Maumere volleyball team. 

One afternoon we had some ladies come down to display how they do the Ikat weaving. It was really interesting. One average Ikat takes approximately 4 months to weave - all done by hand.

The day to the 3 coloured lakes started early with a 0400 pick up with our friends off Beez Neez and we all loaded into a van. The drive took us up and over the mountains to the other side and the views where spectacular. Some of the roads were not very wide but we never felt unsafe. That said we wouldn't want to do this drive in the rain. The roads are very steep in some places and with debris, mud and copious amounts of water falling could all make for a very interesting trip. The drive there and back was long but very good and we had loads of fun.

The main thing about visiting the 3 coloured lakes is to have a clear day. As we stopped the van to pay our entry fee the entire mountain top was in cloud - zero visibility. But we decided to press on and glad we did. The clouds cleared and views were breathtaking.

Two of the lakes are close together and the 3rd is a walk away to the other side of the crater. Easy, just long. Monkeys like here and don't seem to fussed by the tourists.

I bought an Ikat simply because i wanted a memento and what a better item to buy. An Ikat bought from the top of Kelimutu!

For lunch we stopped at the 'Mushroom Cafe' but sadly they had run out of mushrooms. Not to worry the lunch was delicious filling our bellies resulting in four very tired tourists who all nodded off on the drive home.

Fantastic day - don't miss this opportunity.

Extra stop: Tanjung Gedong August 16 - 17 August, over night stop only.

Fisherman about to leave for a days fishing.

After leaving Leba Leba bay we decided to make a run for Tanjung Gedong. Tanjung meaning Point. We had to crank up the engine as we needed to enter Gedong with some day light. As it turned out we entered right on dark and had a friend come in his tender and show us where to put the anchor down. The little bay has its own village, but we did not go ashore here.

Matilda round the point to Gedong - cutting it fine for some light but it was a glorious full moon.

Thanks to the Captain of Serica, we anchored just in front of him.

We anchored in 9 meters of water at 08 04.69 & 122 50.70E. This was very close to shore and we still could have gone in closer. There are bommies closer to shore on the port side as you enter, give it a wide berth.

The fleet.

In the morning before we left we could see many local busy on the foreshore. Moving water (carrying on their heads), repairs on fishing vessels, fisherman coming and going and plenty of kids running around playing games and squealing with excitement.

Boat repairs on the foreshore.

Colorful boats at anchor,

Local ladies transporting water. Love the lady on the right of shot - she has a red pan under her chin to catch the water no doubt leaking from the ones on her head.

A few of the rally participants went ashore here and said the market & town where very basic. Some saw monkeys on the beach.

Stop 5: Leba Leba Bay, Lowoleba, Lembata Island. August 15 - 16 2016

Coastal trader (still used) at the dock at Lowoleba Harbour.

An over night run from Hoga Island to the Island of Lembata. We anchored in Leba Leba Bay and the capital of Lembata is Lowoleba - all these similar names do get a bit confusing sometimes. We had fantastic winds until about 2 hours out of the run in and the wind just totally died - which was to be indicative of the run all along the island of Flores, no wind. Our journey in was breath taking as we where now in the land of volcano's.

Heading for the anchorage and thats our volcano we anchor beside.

Very interesting once we left Hoga and sailed through the reef pass we saw houses along the reef edge. One of the structures was quite substantial and we wondered if it was a dive platform.

Its hard to capture the structures out the reef due to distance, but this gives some idea.

Our anchorage location was 08 22.17S & 123 24.51E in approx. 7 meters of water with very good holding.

Spider boats = Squid boats. High and dry, a good time to clean the bottom of the boat.

Aways a mosque. The guy flying is advertising to us about the gala dinner that night!

Pulling into Leba Leba bay was surreal, the water was calm and very protected. For those who know Twofold Bay, Eden NSW, it was not unlike pulling in there with the exception of being overshadowed by a huge volcano. This region is know for its whale hunting. We did not attend a tour due to coming in late, but others did and said it was very interesting. The local did not slaughter a whale while the tour was happening but we later heard that the next day they killed 3 sperm whales. A couple of our fleet participants where there and took many photos. This is the local way of surviing and yet those who watched on still felt it very difficult to watch.

We only stayed one night and did not go into town. However on the advise of a fellow cruiser as soon as we had dropped anchor we headed ashore for a late lunch prior to the evenings festivities. We are so glad we did as the lunch was cheap and very tasty.

Our lunch cafe with the sign.

Our greeting party.

Agnes who cooked our lunch. Her cafe is pictured above.

Every time we attend a festival we know where to go, as we just look for the flags!

As we only had a very short stay (over night) we did not go into town which is a little taxi, bus or motor bike ride away but heard very good reports of the markets. They apparently like most other markets sold most things we needed to stock up on.

Some of the structures are a bit of a worry.

Fisherman hard at work. Love the volcano in the distance.

The nights gala dinner was delicious, we again endured more speeches in Indonesian but the dancing was great and we all love it when they ask us to all join in. Another great night was had by all those attending.

Gala dinner night - our welcoming party.

We are very well looked after.

After speeches we are welcomed (or in this case farewell'd) by many dancers. Some of the fleet have joined in.

Matilda leaving the bay.

Extra stop: Hoga Island August 12 - 14 2016

We moved from Wanci to Hoga Island August 12 2016. Its approximately 35 nautical miles and we tried ever so hard to sail it but the wind angle, the reefs that seem to stick out for miles and the chop all meant that sailing was useless unless you wanted to take hours and hours to tack 35nm’s. The risk of entering between the reefs late in the afternoon forced us to motor in for safety.

We anchored at 05 28.82S & 123 45.89E in 22 meters of water. Be careful when entering through the reef marker on your port side it is not on the edge of the reef. Also when we entered (August 2016) there was a broken cable floating on the surface. It is approx 60/70mm thick and roughly 20/30 meters long floating on the port side. Lucky for us the fleet who was already anchored at Hoga had radioed the hazard to us early. It turned out the cable actually runs along the coral patch and must have broken off at some stage – no idea what its purpose was.

Hoga is a national park and is used for research and has divers come from all over the world who stay for several months at a time to study. A lot of what we saw was the old dive center and is now left to decay on its own.

Once we arrived Beez Neez came over for a quick hello and then we followed them shortly after for a snorkel. Wow its amazing here, the fish are abundant and the coral is very good. The sheer drop offs are incredible. We saw a sea snake and 3 lion fish! The island is magnificent.

Dive boat

Jetty looking towards the island

Our tender tied to the jetty in about 3-5 meters of water and crystal clear.

Quite a few of the fleet left the next day for an atoll named Tomia, 30nm’s further down for a snorkel but we decided to stay on to explore the island, make bread, bottle the brew and chill for a day before an overnight run to Flores.

Another glorious sunset. Just visible over Matildas rail on the right is the jetty.

Turned out we had a marvelous day, joining other rally friends on 2 snorkels and a wonderful lunch at the new dive resort.

Just us for lunch!